Low compression after engine rebuild,1987 2F.

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Spike is speaking words of wisdom to be followed. A new Magnaflow ensures a 2017 sticker on your license plate. The old OE cat you just bought is the same age as your old one... 3 decades old.




Spike is speaking words of wisdom to be followed. A new Magnaflow ensures a 2017 sticker on your license plate. The old OE cat you just bought is the same age as your old one... 3 decades old.

Thanks to Output Shaft Spike, for pointing out the Cat's related issues and considerations...I think I jumped the gun...

I will call Cruiser Parts in the morning to cancel my order, if it hasn't shipped already...

Based on my information at the time, I was under the impression, that after market Cats are inferior to OEM ones, even if they are old.
As long as they are certified. I asked myself, why would a major supplier (Cruiser Parts) sell used, certified, cats for more money, than new after market ones, such as Magnaflow, unless there is an advantage. Specially, when selling to A Ca customer. I pointed out to the Rep from Cruiser Parts, that I failed Smog, and being in Ca, that its important, that the cat will function as good or better than the after market ones they also offered. The used OEM was suppose to be a better choice.

So, is the Magnaflow Cat the best choice ? Does Cruiser Parts sell that brand ? I guess, I can ask them tomorrow...

I will do some more research to be sure, and with your suggestions I believe that going with a Magnaflow is probably the better choice...

Besides the high HC, which a new cat will cure (hopefully), I was also dealing with high NOx, which my EGR system is controlling (as well as other conditions, such as carburator adjustments and possibly the AI system)

After going thru the EGR system again, and more thoroughly, I found a few things, which I have now corrected.

I re-checked the functionality of the EGR valve (OK), the EGR modulator (OK), VSV (OK) and the related piping.

The piping was not correct.
1. The hose from the top of the modulator port Q going to the top of the diaphragm port of the EGR valve had a small cut, but also had a VSV in the line, with the black side toward the modulator. It acted as a check, blocking the vacuum from the modulator to the EGR.
So, basically, the vacuum was not actuating the EGR at all...

Removed the VTV and ran a line direct, as per schematic.
2. Additionally, the (2) lines to the VSV (1) where switched.
The presence of the VTV looked so "correct" that I didn't think, it didn't belong there.
So, everything is a per schematic now, I am sure.

Going to finalize the cat issue over the W/E and hope to be able to go for a re-smog next week...

IMG_0153.jpg
 
One more thing:

The bottom of the HACV has a port, which does not connect to anything. Is it just an inlet port to atmosphere ? Is that correct ?
The vacuum piping shows a hose there. Where does this 26708 hose connect to ? To the HACV bottom port ? and the other end ?
 
Open to atmosphere.
 
Mr. Rainercar, I am blown away by your level of attention and perseverance on this job. All of you on this thread are speaking a foreign language to me as I'm fortunate enough to be able to remove and box up all these weird parts. But I did pick up on the need for a 4-speed. If you have not sourced one, I'll be glad to donate one of mine to your project. It came out of my sons running 87 years ago and it's been sitting in my shop. Shipping may be an issue as I'm in TX. Regardless, it's got your name on it if you want it. Good luck with you're ride. Jim
 
The OE CAT is only OBD 1 compliant. The Magnaflow is OBD 2 compliant, per CA law, and one of those requirements is increased flow. Also smaller, lighter, etc. Don't toss your old CAT. Cut the end flanges off and you could use for a straight pipe or fixing the down pipe as they fit the exhaust manifold. And Man, the price has gone up! You can get from any auto parts store.

The VTV in your above picture probably came from the Carburetor and goes between the choke breaker and an air horn vacuum port. It's 23282 in the diagram. Between Modulator and EGR valve is just straight hose.

Also, your HIGH NOx is probably because the carb mix is too lean.

Oh, yeah, it's also illegal in CA to install a used CAT. ***ing totalitarian Socialist commie Fascist bastids!

EDIT: The 49-State Magnaflow is the same as the CARB version for CA - IF you know someone out of State who will ship it to you, it's about $200. Same beast just not stamped CARB.

Amazon.com: MagnaFlow 23894 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter (Non CARB compliant): Automotive
 
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The OE CAT is only OBD 1 compliant. The Magnaflow is OBD 2 compliant, per CA law, and one of those requirements is increased flow. Also smaller, lighter, etc. Don't toss your old CAT. Cut the end flanges off and you could use for a straight pipe or fixing the down pipe as they fit the exhaust manifold. And Man, the price has gone up! You can get from any auto parts store.

The VTV in your above picture probably came from the Carburetor and goes between the choke breaker and an air horn vacuum port. It's 23282 in the diagram. Between Modulator and EGR valve is just straight hose.

Also, your HIGH NOx is probably because the carb mix is too lean.

Oh, yeah, it's also illegal in CA to install a used CAT. ***ing totalitarian Socialist commie Fascist bastids!

EDIT: The 49-State Magnaflow is the same as the CARB version for CA - IF you know someone out of State who will ship it to you, it's about $200. Same beast just not stamped CARB.

Amazon.com: MagnaFlow 23894 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter (Non CARB compliant): Automotive


I, too, found out, that it is illegal to install a used an OM catalytic converter, the changed the law in 2008.
Funny, that Cruiser Parts does not know that, they can actually be fined $500.00 for selling it in Ca. Amazing..

My car has the VTV installed between the choke breaker and the top of the carb. So the one I found was just redundant, but its been removed...
Will spend some more time, trying to adjust the fuel mixture less lean, before getting it re-smog-ed, but I think I am on the right track...
 
Double check all possible places where there could be a vacuum leak. A vac leak is the number one cause of lean A/F mixture.

Check the operation of the distributor venting VCV snapped under the air cleaner on the R side. Make sure pipe "S" on the VCV holds vacuum and doesn't free flow. If it leaks, replace it or plug it's vac hose with a bb for the smog test.

image.jpeg
 
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Double check all possible places where there could be a vacuum leak. A vac leak is the number one cause of lean A/F mixture.

Check the operation of the distributor venting VCV snapped under the air cleaner on the R side. Make sure pipe "S" on the VCV holds vacuum and doesn't free flow. If it leaks, replace it or plug it's vac hose with a bb for the smog test.

View attachment 1364563


Good point. Will check that tomorrow morning.

One other place I will re-check is the flex hose connection between the EGR valve and the EGR cooler. I remember it being a bit loose upon installation. It didn't register, but now I remember reading on the forum, that a loose connection could act like a vac leak. I meant to fix it, but it slipped my mind..

Did some additional checking and investigating today.
Since I fixed the issues with the EGR valve modulator to EGR piping etc, I am getting better readings on my fuel/air ratio meter.
Before, when the car was warm and in idle, I could not get any readings below 18:1 or more (off the scale) and while driving, the readings where a bit better, around 16 to 17:1, just inside the scale.
Now, when starting engine from cold, the reading is around 14, idling at 1200 RPM. When it warms up it, as I push in the choke a bit at a time, it goes progressively to 16.5/16.7 where it settles with the choke in all the way, idling at 650 RPM. Running smooth.
When I drive it it is around its at 14 to 15 where its suppose to be.
I will back the mixture screw out a turn or so, to try to get it to around 15 or less in low idle, if I can.

Got the cat removed, ready for a replacement. CruiserParts was closed when I called them today (Saturday). Will get the OE used one cancelled/returned and order a Magnaflow. If its shipped already, I will try to time it and be home when its delivered, so I can just refuse delivery... If not, I will have to get a return authorization etc. and go from there...
Still have lots of other interior items to find, such as front driver seat cover, crack free OE dash, ashtray (missing) and replace a wobbly driver door mirror... My interior color is brown...
 
Hey, not admitting to anything, but I put new cats on my fj62...only diff of out of state cat is no CARB # stamp...the community of ih8mud is great. that's all I will say...and yes, back out your idle mix screw some more...
 
Have you put a vacuum gauge on it?
 
Double check all possible places where there could be a vacuum leak. A vac leak is the number one cause of lean A/F mixture.

Check the operation of the distributor venting VCV snapped under the air cleaner on the R side. Make sure pipe "S" on the VCV holds vacuum and doesn't free flow. If it leaks, replace it or plug it's vac hose with a bb for the smog test.

View attachment 1364563


I checked the VCV valve . Holds vacuum.
 
The OE CAT is only OBD 1 compliant. The Magnaflow is OBD 2 compliant, per CA law, and one of those requirements is increased flow. Also smaller, lighter, etc. Don't toss your old CAT. Cut the end flanges off and you could use for a straight pipe or fixing the down pipe as they fit the exhaust manifold. And Man, the price has gone up! You can get from any auto parts store.

The VTV in your above picture probably came from the Carburetor and goes between the choke breaker and an air horn vacuum port. It's 23282 in the diagram. Between Modulator and EGR valve is just straight hose.

Also, your HIGH NOx is probably because the carb mix is too lean.

Oh, yeah, it's also illegal in CA to install a used CAT. ***ing totalitarian Socialist commie Fascist bastids!

EDIT: The 49-State Magnaflow is the same as the CARB version for CA - IF you know someone out of State who will ship it to you, it's about $200. Same beast just not stamped CARB.

Amazon.com: MagnaFlow 23894 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter (Non CARB compliant): Automotive

Other thing you could do is take a day trip to Reno, NV and grab it directly from Summit Racing (in Sparks) MagnaFlow Direct Fit Catalytic Converters 23894. Don't know that they check ID and what not when selling over the counter.

However, thing is with CARB it sounds like you have been getting that REF that will check EVERYTHING. So if he does not see the CARB sticker on the CAT he may fail you.. you might be just better off getting from Amazon (get the free prime shipping, do the trial offer if you do not have a membership) and that way you will have in a couple of days. Lots of stuff ships from their warehouses either outside of Reno or Las Vegas so you should have quickly no matter what.
 
Other thing you could do is take a day trip to Reno, NV and grab it directly from Summit Racing (in Sparks) MagnaFlow Direct Fit Catalytic Converters 23894. Don't know that they check ID and what not when selling over the counter.

However, thing is with CARB it sounds like you have been getting that REF that will check EVERYTHING. So if he does not see the CARB sticker on the CAT he may fail you.. you might be just better off getting from Amazon (get the free prime shipping, do the trial offer if you do not have a membership) and that way you will have in a couple of days. Lots of stuff ships from their warehouses either outside of Reno or Las Vegas so you should have quickly no matter what.

I checked the thermo switch #89425-60030, that goes into the cat, and it is open. No resistance, when checking between the terminals, as per emission control manual. Should have 2 - 200 Ohms.
My neighbor, who has an older Toyota, who has an old sensor laying around. His checks 20 ohms. But the harness is several inches too short.
(He wants to keep it, but would let me have it, if I cant find one)
Cruiser parts has a used one listed for $75.00. Not a bad price, I am still checking around.
What effect would a bad thermo sensor have ? I will definitely will replace it, thou...

Went around my local auto shops for a cat. O'Reilley has a Magnaflow universal fit # 339041 in stock for $190 or something like that, but I would have to have a muffler shop weld on (2) flanges. They can get the direct fit 339894 for $332 in 3 days.
AutoZone same situation.
Napa has a Walker universal fit in stock for $149.00, but no direct fit Walker.
Napa can get me the Magnaflow direct fit for $307.00 in 2 days (after a 10% AAA discount - all prices are plus 8.75% tx).
I think, I will play it save and go with the one from NAPA...
 
it's also illegal in CA to install a used CAT. ***ing totalitarian Socialist commie Fascist bastids
Same here in CT. When I read he'd bought used in NH I was damn surprised but kept reading regardless. I called my local junk yard awhile back and they said the same. Glad to see folks recommending not using the old and simply buying new aftermarket. Seems far wiser if it needs to be legally complaint. I wondered myself how CP tested the old cat.
 
If you're unsure whther or not the cat thermosensor is turning off the air injection, there's an easy test to find out. But I think your air injection system is working because your O2% was good.

While the engine is idling, pull off the big air injection bypass hose attached to the passenger side of the air cleaner. If no air is discharging out of that hose, that's good, the air pump is pumping air into the exhaust.

image.jpeg
 
You got some mad artistic skills. I wanted to be the first to mention that. If you never make it as a Land Cruiser mechanic you should definitely draw cartoons or something. Good luck with your truck!
 
Blame those drawings on the japanese Toyota technical illustrators.
Not my drawings. Cropped from the manual.
Though... I do draw a darn good red arrow if I do say so myself :)


From manual:
image.jpeg
 

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