Low compression after engine rebuild,1987 2F. (1 Viewer)

[Rainercar]

I finally talked to a person at CruiserParts about the ordered used catalytic converter. They didn't answer the phone for a few hours in the morning (Ca time).
They hadn't even shipped the thing (good). I explained that I wanted to cancel, due to the legality (or lack of..) of selling/installing etc of a used cat in Ca. The person I spoke with didn't care..
They do sell a new one, supposedly OEM Toyota for around $900.00. It would be shipped to them, and then to me. I declined. Order is cancelled.
Re-installed my old cat and went to a local muffler shop here in Santa Rosa. They concurred about the used cat not being able to be used/installed here... Not that I didn't agree with that by now.
They had the universal mount Magnaflow 339041 in stock for for $ 216 +50 labor + Tx for total of $285.00 installed. They used the flanges off the old cat and welded them on the new unit.
The owner of the shop also agreed, that this cat has better flow characteristic than the old OM one. He tested the old one and it was bad. He said among other things, that the "pellets were gone". Apparently, the Toyota cat used coated ceramic pellets, which are bonded together, in place of the titanium/iridium coated ceramic honey comb structure on the new style. When the cat fails, due to oil/coolant etc contamination and age, the pellets break-loose and lay on the bottom of the enclosure or blow out the exhaust over time. Thats what one hears, when checking the cat for rattle, as per emission manual on page 3-29.
Mine demonstrated these symptoms, besides failing further tests..
And, I even saved $200.00..

So, now waiting for the replacement thermo sensor (on its way..). Looks like I will be ready for a smog re-test in a few days..
And then, on to my transmission swap and interior redo...

 

[CenTXFJ60]

I finally talked to a person at CruiserParts about the ordered used catalytic converter. They didn't answer the phone for a few hours in the morning (Ca time).
They hadn't even shipped the thing (good). I explained that I wanted to cancel, due to the legality (or lack of..) of selling/installing etc of a used cat in Ca. The person I spoke with didn't care..
They do sell a new one, supposedly OEM Toyota for around $900.00. It would be shipped to them, and then to me. I declined. Order is cancelled.
Re-installed my old cat and went to a local muffler shop here in Santa Rosa. They concurred about the used cat not being able to be used/installed here... Not that I didn't agree with that by now.
They had the universal mount Magnaflow 339041 in stock for for $ 216 +50 labor + Tx for total of $28500 installed. They used the flanges off the old cat and welded them on the new unit.
The owner of the shop also agreed, that this cat has better flow characteristic than the old OM one. He tested the old one and it was bad. He said among other things, that the "pellets were gone". Apparently, the Toyota cat used coated ceramic pellets, which are bonded together, in place of the titanium/iridium coated ceramic honey comb structure on the new style. When the cat fails, due to oil/coolant etc contamination and age, the pellets break-loose and lay on the bottom of the enclosure or blow out the exhaust over time. Thats what one hears, when checking the cat for rattle, as per emission manual on page 3-29.
Mine demonstrated these symptoms, besides failing further tests..
And, I even saved $200.00..

So, now waiting for the replacement thermo sensor (on its way..). Looks like I will be ready for a smog re-test in a few days..
And then, on to my transmission swap and interior redo...

Rainer, if that's what we talked about last night then it's on the way. Dropped it at the post office around mid day. Not sure about the timing from TX to CA, but hopes it gets there this week. Good luck with your project. Jim

 

[Rainercar]

Rainer, if that's what we talked about last night then it's on the way. Dropped it at the post office around mid day. Not sure about the timing from TX to CA, but hopes it gets there this week. Good luck with your project. Jim

Yes, Jim. Thats what I was talking about...
Thanks again, its the missing link...

 

[Rainercar]

Yes, Jim. Thats what I was talking about...
Thanks again, its the missing link...

Jim,

Got the thermo sensor in the mail. Checked out OK, 16 ohms. Will install it tomorrow and re-smog the car, if I get an appointment...

Thanks again,

Rainer

 

[Rainercar]

Well, I passed my smog test today. With flying colors. HC are almost zero (7). The Magnaflow did the trick. Still don't have my refund from CruiserParts 2 weeks and counting. Got an email from them, but no refund yet. Wanted to buy more interior parts from them, but not so sure now. They sure know how to loose a potential future customer...
The NOx is now 392/407 (average is 369/327). EGR system is now working as it should. Still have the lean idle, but that did not affect the smog test. I will play with that some more, when I take the filter housing off, when I adjust the valves after a few hundred mile break-in period.
Thanks again to all that helped me diagnose my issues. Could not have done this with out your help.

I am now working on the transmission issue and interior refreshment...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

don't forget to retorque that head! good work on this BTW...

 

[Rainercar]

don't forget to retorque that head! good work on this BTW...

Yup, that was part of the plan... How many miles before this is done, normally ?

Rainer

 

[Spike Strip]

I would retorque the head after a few Heat/Cooling cycles and again after a few hundy miles.

Change the oil often in the first 500 - 1000 miles.

Use proper High-zinc oil for flat-tappet engine.

Don't over-rev.

Don't lug the engine.

Don't drink six tall boys and go wheelin'

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I did after the initial 20 minutes, 100 miles, 500 miles and 1000 miles on the torque and valve lash. prolly overkill, but I used an aftermarket gasket; the valves need adjusting after a head bolt torque...I changed the oil at 500 and used the lightest oil for my temp range(10-30) and some zddp additive. I didn't overrev unless 4500 is too much...(delta 262 cam)

 

[Rainercar]

I did after the initial 20 minutes, 100 miles, 500 miles and 1000 miles on the torque and valve lash. prolly overkill, but I used an aftermarket gasket; the valves need adjusting after a head bolt torque...I changed the oil at 500 and used the lightest oil for my temp range(10-30) and some zddp additive. I didn't overrev unless 4500 is too much...(delta 262 cam)

When you did those short intervals, did you notice that it had changed the valve lash or the torque at every mileage step ?
I was not able to drive the car much, due to the lack of smog certificate, I could not register it.
I will go to the DMV on monday and will be able to drive it properly. I have only used i tank of gas, mostly running stationary or short trips around the block...
I will do the first step (vales, head and oil) after DMV and then after 500 miles or so...

 

[Output Shaft]

Just as a tidbit of info, the 1980 2F engine manual recommends retorquing the head bolts before adjusting the valves anyway.

 

[Rainercar]

Just as a tidbit of info, the 1980 2F engine manual recommends retorquing the head bolts before adjusting the valves anyway.

Thanks for pointing that out, makes sense. I was not aware of the sequence...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

may as well, you're already in there...use a crows foot for the middle bolt- the one under the rocker shaft...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

the head bolts did not move much; maybe a couple moved at all- less than 30* all told over the course of multiple torques. now I backed off a half- a full turn then and retorqued- not just slappin a wrench on and checking for the click...the valve lash setting changes were perceivable at each one...maybe not the last one as much...

 

[gregnash]

Yup same here when I did mine... First attempt the headbolts I did 1/2 turn and then retorqued all in order of installation, however I actually took the time to remove my valvetrain instead of trying the crows foot. The changes to the second retorque were barely perceivable. Doing the valve lash, I definitely had some movement on all of them. Good thing is there is a guide out there to do the valves while the engine is bone cold, so that makes things a lot easier. Done that twice now with great results.

 

[roadstr6]

Yup same here when I did mine... First attempt the headbolts I did 1/2 turn and then retorqued all in order of installation, however I actually took the time to remove my valvetrain instead of trying the crows foot. The changes to the second retorque were barely perceivable. Doing the valve lash, I definitely had some movement on all of them. Good thing is there is a guide out there to do the valves while the engine is bone cold, so that makes things a lot easier. Done that twice now with great results.

Got a link to this guide? I am curious about your experience with it as Mr. T says to adjust them hot.

 

[Output Shaft]

Toyota changed their valve lash inspection/adjustment procedure (recommendation) for the 3F engine.
I guess enough people bitched about the running hot method recommend for the 2F.

if you want to follow the procedure below with a cold engine instead of hot, have the gauge feelers slide with less friction than when hot. The valve lash gets a little smaller on a hot engine than cold.

How much less friction?
Heat up the engine to normal operating temp, then check the rocker to valve stem clearance using the procedure below. Don't adjust it. Try to remember what the feeler gauge blade feels like in that gap when hot.

Then let the engine cool down completely for a few hours and check that same valve again. Note the difference in feel of the drag of the feeler gauge.

That's the difference between hot and cold lash.

The lash spec is for a hot engine. Adjust the valves accordingly if doing it cold.


Page from Toyota 3F (not 3FE) FSM.

 

[gregnash]

Got a link to this guide? I am curious about your experience with it as Mr. T says to adjust them hot.

I gotta dig for it. I had it "watched" at one point before the forum changed over but lost it. I luckily printed out the chart that someone had made (maybe @Output Shaft knows the one I am talking about, has pink and yellow rows?) and put it up on the garage wall. If nothing else I can post up tonight when I get home. If I remember correctly, when cold you adjust the Intake to .010in and the exhaust to .016in)

 

[Godwin]

Toyota changed their valve lash inspection/adjustment procedure (recommendation) for the 3F engine.
I guess enough people bitched about the running hot method recommend for the 2F.

Page from Toyota 3F (not 3FE) FSM.

Interesting change in procedure between 2F and 3F. Also running hot method will not work on a 3FE because of massive vacuum leak and disconnection of EFI components.

 

[roadstr6]

Interesting change in procedure between 2F and 3F. Also running hot method will not work on a 3FE because of massive vacuum leak and disconnection of EFI components.

Aha! Now that makes sense. I doubt very seriously if Mr. T just decided to change the procedure because so many people bitched about it. Mr. T doesn't listen to us. If he did Toyota would still be sending North America real trucks with real solid front axles, not the soccer mom leather sunroof Mark Levinson auto height control drive-by-wire gizmo bull**** that we get here. Rant over....whew!

Anyway thanks for setting me straight on the cold setting method. Good information!