Low compression after engine rebuild,1987 2F.

[Rainercar]

Got the car dialed in good. Idles at 650 RPM. Will have it smog-ed tomorrow, so I can get it registered and put some miles on it.
Will have to address my trans next... Then the interior... Then...
Oh well...

 

[micruz60]

Good luck with the smogtest.

Baselining the rig is frustrating, some backward / forward steps to be expected.

 

[Rainercar]

Well, didn't pass due to no vacuum at the distributor and the exhaust manifold insulator 17167-61012 missing. Didn't put the elbow on, didn't think it mattered...
Cant find the part anywhere. Discontinued at the dealer..
I have the elbow and upper tube, but the asbestos type surround over is disintegrated. Any idea, does anybody have an old one for sale or knows, where to buy one ?

 

[gregnash]

Talk to Georg (@orangefj45) and see if he might have one laying around at his shop. He is in Stockton... Post up a pic of what you are looking for here as well as in the Classifieds and see if you get a bite. Last ditch resort is to go to Spectre Offroad (SOR) and see if they have it but it will come at a premium price.

 

[orangefj45]

Go to Napa. They have "universal" kits that'll work just fine.



Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[Rainercar]

Go to Napa. They have "universal" kits that'll work just fine.



Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

I did go to NAPA, but all they had was a piece of aluminized reflective, thin material with an adhesive backing. I bought it, but its useless.
I cut the remaining asbestos off the elbow/flange. I will put the elow and pipe on, maybe the Smog Shop will accept it, since it will do what it was meant to do.

If not, just saw a used piece, made out of sheet metall, listed on Cruiser Parts for $165.00, may have to buy that, if I cant find a cheeper one and if the Smog Shop will not accept the elbow only...

 

[cruiserfj45]

My dad made on e out of a coffee can and riveted a pipe to it to attach the hose. He should of painted it black and they never would of known that he made it.

 

[orangefj45]

They shouldn't care about the asbestos part missing.

And the pic of the tin cover is for an earlier 2F and won't bolt up to your exhaust manifold; different pattern.

I may have a good used FJ60 part for you ......

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

you can use aluminum flex tube found at your local auto parts store attached to your metal elbow with a hose clamp. hook up the vac advance hose to the diz with a bb in it if the advance can leaks. if it doesn't, hook it up and go.

 

[Rainercar]

you can use aluminum flex tube found at your local auto parts store attached to your metal elbow with a hose clamp. hook up the vac advance hose to the diz with a bb in it if the advance can leaks. if it doesn't, hook it up and go.

 

[Rainercar]

1. I do have the original hose that comes from the filter housing to top of the elbow. So I am good there. Will install the elbow with it hooked up, but no shroud on the bottom facing the manifold, unless I will find an old unit... That should do it.
2. I will check the BVSV valve at the thermostat housing tomorrow, see if it lets vac thru when coolant tmp is above 111 deg F...

 

[Output Shaft]

When all the smog crap is installed, it's impossible to see whether the asbestos shield exists or not. Its buried in there. Just install the metal elbow with hose and you're good.

 

[Spike Strip]

As others have said, the asbestos insulator does not matter, but the HAI (Hot Air Intake) tube must be connected to the exhaust someway. The 'Universal' kit Georg mentions will work, though there are a couple of them. The Smog Nazi's consider it important because it helps keep the e-missin's lower on cold starts (I need one when I fart in the morning) ... But really, with a manual choke, it's ***ing irrelevant. Just make it look like it's there.

Post detailed pix before your next test so we can see if it all looks good.

 

[Rainercar]

Fixed all emission related issues, as far as I know.
1. No vacuum at distributor was caused by a faulty BVSV (1), pink sensor at the thermostat housing. Dealer had one in stock ($ 63.00 + tx. !). Installed, now have vacuum at distributor when engine coolant is above 111 degrees F , zero at idle, max at 2500 RPM)
2. Installed the hot air hose at the air cleaner to exhaust manifold. (Napa- not the right size, 2" I.D., should be 2 1/16" I.D. But I made it work) See pic's.
Hope that will be acceptable to the Smog Shop.
3. Removed the idle mixture adjustment plug and checked the setting of the adj, screw. Was set to approx 2 turns out.
I will double check the idle mixture, RPM and timing again tomorrow morning, before I take the car in for the smog check.

Hope it will pass this time. I installed a temp air/fuel mixture gage to check the mixture. Cant get the stoichiometric ratio (14.7 : 1)
at idle, its more than 18 - maxed out on my gage. When running the engine at higher RPM, or while driving, it settles around 15 :1.
So I know its good, but still needs help at idle. I think, they check emission at a certain RPM....
Hope I will get it better at idle, before smog-ing it tomorrow PM.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

18 at idle sounds a bit lean, try turning the mix screw out a half-to one full turn. even 15 at speed sounds lean for this old tractor, but post up results...HINT; my trucks burn better when fully warmed up (almost hot)

 

[gregnash]

18 at idle sounds a bit lean, try turning the mix screw out a half-to one full turn. even 15 at speed sounds lean for this old tractor, but post up results...HINT; my trucks burn better when fully warmed up (almost hot)

He said that he thought it was more because that was as high as his gauge went.

 

[micruz60]

Did you also hook up the air hose from smogpump to air rail, the part just left of the corrugated piece in first pic?

 

[Rainercar]

Did you also hook up the air hose from smogpump to air rail, the part just left of the corrugated piece in first pic?

Yes, its hooked back up. just removed it temporarily for better access.

 

[Output Shaft]

Either your wideband O2 meter is off or the engine is running too lean. It should -never- run above 15:1 except when decelerating. It should rarely even hit 14.7:1.

It should run below 14:1 while driving.

 

[Rainercar]

Set my timing again to 7 degrees, was off a bit at 3. Adjusted the idle screw according to the lean-drop method, as per the 2F Emission Manual (Thanks Spike Strip for the download...). Idles now steady at 650. But no change to my air/fuel ratio gage. Still off the gage scale 18+ at idle, but around 14 to 15 at higher rpm.
Going for re-smog at 3 PM...