Builds Louie - 1973 FJ40 - A OEM work in Progress (1 Viewer)

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Little Repairs - High Beam indicator was not working. I pulled to the dash to try and troubleshoot the problem.

The blub was loose in the housing. It looks like the PO did a repair using a piece of plastic to have spring tension because the black plastic piece on the wire was black and brittle.

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I 3d printed a new plastic washer.
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and installed it on the wire.

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Worked perfect to hold the blub tight however the light is very dim. Only getting 9 volts to the socket. Likely a ground issue. Simple wiring the High Beam indicator. Any hints to how to address this problem? I might take it apart again and try and polish the blub socket contact points.
  1. High Beam lights work
  2. Dash Lights work and are bright

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Emergency Parking Brake Cable broke yesterday. The connector sheared off the end of the cable. The PO had installed a new cable. Any thoughts as to why the end of the cable would shear off. It looks like a 3 drink job just to remove the old cable and I would like to understand why this may have happened before I install a new one.
Cable has been replaced. After further investigation, I think the cable was original. It ended up being a 4 beer job because I had it all together and then realized that the firewall bracket was installed on backwards on the cable. The only way to get the bracket turned around was to take it all apart. Details are important. Fortunately, I had only run the cable and not installed the brake drum. It took a while to find the right gear oil (Gl-4) and had to purchase a 29mm socket for the park brake drum nut.

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Also took the opportunity to replace the speedo cable because the needle was bouncing. The needle is now rock solid when driving,
 
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Finished the fab of the jerry can holder this weekend. Jerry Can is mounted. I found a Crown Automotive Jerry Can holder that looks exactly like the Con-Fer. The Jerry Can was my Dad's. I left the patina on the Jerry Can and added the TEQ logo. I had a friend make a vinyl mask to be able to spray the logo of the can. The logo is good from far but far from good.

The best part of the whole process is that I had to purchase a MGAW welder.


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Added a third stop light to the Jerry Can Holder as well. The light plugs into the trailer wiring harness. The light is manufactured by a friend for trailer hitch bike racks however since the Landcruiser lights do not have great visibility, I thought using this light as a third light was a good idea. The Bike Rack Light has both turn signals and stop LED. The company also makes motorcycle lights and dollies, Admore Lighting.



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Finally got some time in the shop.

Worked on loosen all the body mount bolts to get ready from replacing the body mounts. The rear sill ones are going to be a challenge.

Continue to chase the rapid turn indicator issue. Still no luck. Need to find a hazard switch to refurbish and see if the issue gets resolved.
  1. Replaced rear lights/brackets with ones direct from Toyota. Old wires on lights were very brittle and brackets were bent.
  2. Took Steering Column apart and cleaned turn switch.
  3. Wire brushed all fuse holders in fuse panel.
  4. Chased wires on the wiring diagrams. Checked voltages at fuse panel without truck running just key on (Some 12 VDC, some 10 VDC). One issue with the wiring is that truck is a 10/72 and when I look at the color coding for the 72/73 wiring diagrams my truck does not match. It matches the 71 diagram. Unless I'm using the wrong information. The wiring harness has not been replaced. Next step is to pull the fuse panel. Wiring Diagram Reference

71 Diagram

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73 diagram

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Here are the parts that I ordered direct from Toyota.
Lights - 81550-60130
Light Brackets LH -75154-60012
RH-75154-60010

New One vs. Old One
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On the fast flashing, have you verified that the wattage of the indicator bulbs are correct for the application? One gets the same bulbs that have different wattage draws so that may be the issue (fast flash is often due to too low current draw against the flasher).
 
On the fast flashing, have you verified that the wattage of the indicator bulbs are correct for the application? One gets the same bulbs that have different wattage draws so that may be the issue (fast flash is often due to too low current draw against the flasher).
Thanks... I will double check the blubs...

Here is the thread that I started as I was dealing with the flashing issue. I thought that the solid state relays didn't care about low current draw.

 
Started the installation on the Toyota Headlight upgrade. Easy kit to install, basically plug and play. The installation instructions detail installing the relays in the interior. Need to investigate this further. The harness doesn't have the right lengths to allow relays to be installed in the cab and still reach the front passenger headlight. I assume that the harness direct connects to the battery and the drivers headlight wire seems way too long. I'm not sure how the headlight plugs will be able to go through existing firewall holes. What am I missing?

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Since Louie is a pavement dweller, I'm considering installing all the wiring in the engine compartment hence the front bib being tilted in the picture below. Just need to create a solution for clean relay mounting.

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Taking to the time to cleanup the headlight buckets as well. Will use some rust remover on them and reinstall them.

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Started to prepare for installation of new body mounts. All bolts are loosened except for the rear sill ones. Soaked them is rust penetrating fluid and hoping this is theworks. There is not a lot of room to get at these bolts.

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Started the installation on the Toyota Headlight upgrade. Easy kit to install, basically plug and play. The installation instructions detail installing the relays in the interior. Need to investigate this further. The harness doesn't have the right lengths to allow relays to be installed in the cab and still reach the front passenger headlight. I assume that the harness direct connects to the battery and the drivers headlight wire seems way too long. I'm not sure how the headlight plugs will be able to go through existing firewall holes. What am I missing?

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Since Louie is a pavement dweller, I'm considering installing all the wiring in the engine compartment hence the front bib being tilted in the picture below. Just need to create a solution for clean relay mounting.

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Taking to the time to cleanup the headlight buckets as well. Will use some rust remover on them and reinstall them.

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Started to prepare for installation of new body mounts. All bolts are loosened except for the rear sill ones. Soaked them is rust penetrating fluid and hoping this is theworks. There is not a lot of room to get at these bolts.

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Not sure if this is of any help: Our Toyota headlight upgrade kit has been installed for about 2 years with the relays mounted on the passenger-side fender under the hood. No problems so far.
 
Not sure if this is of any help: Our Toyota headlight upgrade kit has been installed for about 2 years with the relays mounted on the passenger-side fender under the hood. No problems so far.
Thanks... Can you send a relay mounting picture. I'm looking for ideas. How did you run the Driver's side wiring? Did you shorten it or run the wire along the firewall?
 
Thanks... Can you send a relay mounting picture. I'm looking for ideas. How did you run the Driver's side wiring? Did you shorten it or run the wire along the firewall?
I've installed two of these kits. The drivers side harness is about 4' too long. I cut the plug off leaving 12" or so of a pig tail, shortened the DS leads, and butt spliced the plug back onto the harness hiding the butt connectors in the factory harness sheathing. I used the butt connectors that have a heat shrink & glue sheath, so I'm not concerned about ever having issues. On my '69 I mounted the relays similar to how green bean did routing the excess wiring along the passenger side harness near the battery. On my '71 I routed the excess wiring down along the bottom edge of the bib and self tap screwed the relays to the PS radiator support upright. I will do the next kit like I did on my '71.

'69

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'71

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I cut and spliced up the harness too. I ran the shorten driver side wire terminal along and inside the bottom of rad support.

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I've installed two of these kits. The drivers side harness is about 4' too long. I cut the plug off leaving 12" or so of a pig tail, shortened the DS leads, and butt spliced the plug back onto the harness hiding the butt connectors in the factory harness sheathing. I used the butt connectors that have a heat shrink & glue sheath, so I'm not concerned about ever having issues. On my '69 I mounted the relays similar to how green bean did routing the excess wiring along the passenger side harness near the battery. On my '71 I routed the excess wiring down along the bottom edge of the bib and self tap screwed the relays to the PS radiator support upright. I will do the next kit like I did on my '71.

'69

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'71

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That was my plan as well for the long wiring. Thanks
 
Finished cleaning up the headlight buckets. Good from far but far from good. The reality is that you will never see them once they are installed back on the truck. It is ok to use the kitchen frying pan to soak them in rust remover right?
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Body Mount Update. I don't think I'm going to be able to loosen the rear sill body mount bolts. They are original and have never been replaced. Next plan of attack is to cut the mounting bolts with an oscillating saw and remove the body mounts in two pieces. Anybody see a flaw in this plan?

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I cut mine out with a sawzall in the back. in my case the frame bracket to the bumper is also right there on the inside so getting the new one in was also a chore - not sure I could have done it without a small 90 tooth ratchet. The rest were relatively easy.

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this one came out clean ...
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Thanks... I will double check the blubs...

Here is the thread that I started as I was dealing with the flashing issue. I thought that the solid state relays didn't care about low current draw.

Update:

Issue with rapid flashing for the turn signals still exists...

Here is what I have know done in addition to other items:

  • Purchased a new hazard switch and took it apart to wire brush all the contacts and clean old grease out of it.
  • Wire brushed contacts in connector. Used a heat gun on low to take the connector apart and it work awesome.
  • Current thinking is a load/voltage issue, so I disconnected the two front turn signal blubs while the hazards were on and the frequency of the flashing of the hazards remained normal (i.e. hazards flash at normal rate with only two blubs)
I'm at a loss at this point on what to try next and getting to point where I don't care that the turn signals flash rapidly.

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Another work in progress, 3D printing wiper stop switch covers for both the screw and non-screw versions. I have an original screw version as a reference. The prototype has a notch that connects well on the lip and was printed using a soft filament. It was printed as open so we could determine fit and sizing. Next prototypes size be updated to fit and use a softer filament to more closely match the original. Once the sizing is correct, the final versions will be printed black.

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