Pushed this weekend to get Louie for the summer season.
Completed the installation of the PTO shims I made last fall. The PO had install the PTO winch with flat bars as shims. Did the job however didn't look quite right. Now it is good from 5 feet with the shims that I made last fall. Likely will not chase OEM shims anymore. Installing on the driver's side involved a couple curse words trying to get the nut, shim and washer on.
Manufactured new front license plate holder. I needed one that could be installed with fog lights and PTO winch. I based the design on the OEM version. Pretty happy with the way it turned out. It sits a little higher than the OEM one. I like having the vintage plate on the front.
Started with two pieces of metal. Cut them to size and joint them together with the MIG welder after the bent the two edges. Still practicing with the MIG.
Installed the Toyota Seat belt on the jump seat.
Installed new ignition and gas door lock. Nice to have a new key that is not worn. Thank you @ToyotaMatt
Installed the proper rear light lens Thank you @archie73
and installed insulation and OEM floor mat. Hopefully the insulation will help a bit with the heat and road noise.
Installed the Toyota Seat belt on the jump seat.
Installed new ignition and gas door lock. Nice to have a new key that is not worn. Thank you @ToyotaMatt
Installed the proper rear light lens Thank you @archie73
I purchased an self adhesive foam sheet at a local craft shop to make my own gasket however the PO had put a bead of some type of material around the lens cover which seemed to hold the glass in place. Here is a similar material on amazon.
I was thinking that I could cut multiple patterns and stick them together to get the right thickness. I still might try it because I have bezel that is in better shape but needs a gasket.
I'm putting together a car show poster and trying to nail down the performance specs for the engine that is installed in Louie.
The truck was manufactured in 10/72 and has F155 engine installed. As far as I know it is the original engine. The engine serial number is engine F413391.
The F-Engine FSM has this data,
The google has this data...
The F engine is a 3.9-liter, 75/93 kW (105/125 hp), carburated gasoline engine that is capable of 261/289 N·m (189/209 lb·ft) of torque at 2000 rpm; the difference in power and torque is different depending on the export destination. The original design was started in 1948 when Toyota begun to explore exporting their vehicles internationally.
There is a discrepancy between FSM and google, what horsepower and torque would this engine produce assuming it is completely stock?
Where did you get the floor mat. The last time I looked fir an oem one for my 73 I could only find them for pto equipped models. Does it come with the pto cutout precut?
Where did you get the floor mat. The last time I looked fir an oem one for my 73 I could only find them for pto equipped models. Does it come with the pto cutout precut?
I found the OEM on Kijiji. As you know 1973 is a weird year and after I bought it, I realized it was for a 4 speed vs. a 3 speed which I have. It is close but not prefect but to find an OEM mat in reasonable shape is near to impossible. There was a PTO cutout outline on the mat which I cutout for my PTO shifter.
I found the OEM on Kijiji. As you know 1973 is a weird year and after I bought it, I realized it was for a 4 speed vs. a 3 speed which I have. It is close but not prefect but to find an OEM mat in reasonable shape is near to impossible. There was a PTO cutout outline on the mat which I cutout for my PTO shifter.
I did find the 73 floor mat part with PTO online. Price to ship was twice as much as the mat cost. Obviously was coming from Japan or Middle East if they really had it. I have a 74-78 four speed floor mat in decent shape. Plan is to change to a H42 and Fairey OD. Will use a 78 transmission cover. Would be tempted to keep the three with the correct mat but over $500 and still have.to cut it for the OD shifter was not worth. H42 is a much nicer transmission verses the J30.
I do have a question on you PTO shifter. Stock there is a flip over gate to lock it in neutral. Otherwise it gets bumped forward change of destroying the winch. I seen the result of when that happens. The shifter moving back is less likely but would start to unspool the cable. Do you have a lock for the shifter? If so how do you operate it with a boot?
I did find the 73 floor mat part with PTO online. Price to ship was twice as much as the mat cost. Obviously was coming from Japan or Middle East if they really had it. I have a 74-78 four speed floor mat in decent shape. Plan is to change to a H42 and Fairey OD. Will use a 78 transmission cover. Would be tempted to keep the three with the correct mat but over $500 and still have.to cut it for the OD shifter was not worth. H42 is a much nicer transmission verses the J30.
I do have a question on you PTO shifter. Stock there is a flip over gate to lock it in neutral. Otherwise it gets bumped forward change of destroying the winch. I seen the result of when that happens. The shifter moving back is less likely but would start to unspool the cable. Do you have a lock for the shifter? If so how do you operate it with a boot?
@Living in the Past is spot on with his concern regarding PTO shifter lock. Without a lock in place, you may want to consider disengaging the winch drum from the drive (shift the dog clutch to free spool) and tension the winch cable in place with some mini bungi cords.
I'd hazard a guess there are a number of broken winch housing castings out there because somebody unwittingly shifted the PTO into gear.
@Living in the Past
I'd hazard a guess there are a number of broken winch housing castings out there because somebody unwittingly shifted the PTO into gear.
The FJ40 cab is not overly large and the left side footwell is smaller than the right. The space between the seat and steering wheel just getting in possible to hit the PTO shift lever and put it in gear. Been my experience the front left casting is the most to be broken.
I was worried about this as well, the PO installed the boot over PTO shift lever without a lock so I removed the shear pin and put a piece of bailing wire in the hole when I purchased the tuck until I figure out a way to lock it with the boot. The bailing wire keeps the joint together however in the event that that lever gets hit, it will fail before any damage occurs to the winch. The truck is used for urban adventures so not worried about having the winch functional. I like having the boot on so eventually I will have to come up with a lock design for the lever. There have been no design epiphanies yet. I do have a couple thoughts but just haven't got around to making a beta version.
10/82 83 model Toyota changed the PTO winch shifter to one that required pushing the lever on the front side in and than button on the top push down to moved the lever.
10/82 83 model Toyota changed the PTO winch shifter to one that required pushing the lever on the front side in and than button on the top push down to moved the lever. View attachment 3026546 View attachment 3026553
No worse than in the US. I know the US did not get a PTO winch after 1978. Looks like Canada was getting an electric winch during this time. The shifter with locks in the shifter itself for the two direction PTO winch were used 10/82-11/84. After that they were single direction and the gate only allowed moving from neutral back. It's been a chore locating this shifter in the US. The one pictured is from a 1984 FJ45LV (troopy).
After eight months, I finally have multiple ignition keys for Louie. Toyota still sells key blanks that work. They are a bit longer than the ones sold by ToyotaMatt and have different markings. Just happy to have duplicates. I had to take the key blanks to a locksmith to have them cut. Toyota Part Number is 90999-00085
While the PO battery tray was functional, it was bulky. Replaced it with an OEM battery tray and installed new battery. I made the battery tray shims out of some left over gym flooring that I had. Seemed to be the right thickness and certainly won't retain the water like the OEM fabric ones.
Emergency Parking Brake Cable broke yesterday. The connector sheared off the end of the cable. The PO had installed a new cable. Any thoughts as to why the end of the cable would shear off. It looks like a 3 drink job just to remove the old cable and I would like to understand why this may have happened before I install a new one.
Little Repairs - High Beam indicator was not working. I pulled to the dash to try and troubleshoot the problem.
The blub was loose in the housing. It looks like the PO did a repair using a piece of plastic to have spring tension because the black plastic piece on the wire was black and brittle.
I 3d printed a new plastic washer.
and installed it on the wire.
Worked perfect to hold the blub tight however the light is very dim. Only getting 9 volts to the socket. Likely a ground issue. Simple wiring the High Beam indicator. Any hints to how to address this problem? I might take it apart again and try and polish the blub socket contact points.
