looking to put leafs under my fj80...

[glasiys]

with the front axle housing being bare bones i dont want to set it up for stock arms or even droped arms thats why im looking at leafs or 3 link

 

[glasiys]

I would measure the front of the frame and the center of the wheel well and see if leaves will even fit. Like someone said 63's are common so you would need about 30" of frame in front of the center of the wheel well. I don't think you will have that.

i was thinking that too.. i could awalys have the shackles run off a bumper at the worest or extend some mounts

 

[Izeloz]

You seem pretty determined to do whatever you want despite a lot of advice to the contrary. Good luck, and post lots of pics! Nothing teaches you better than making mistakes (coming from a guy who has made plenty of his own)!

 

[glasiys]

money is the biggest issue and i realy feel leafs would be the cheapest way to have some real nice lift tbh

 

[scottryana]

Steering is going to be your most difficult issue. I know you said you have a 9.5 setup, but nothing about your steering knuckles. Getting the steering arms above the leafs is going to be tough.

money is the biggest issue and i realy feel leafs would be the cheapest way to have some real nice lift tbh

 

[Mark W]

What's wrong with the stock front axle? How big of a tire are you planning on running? There are plenty of guys running 6" lifts (keeping the radius arm setup) on the stock axle... running 37s and even 40s. If it's not broken, why fix it?

While I think that The OPs idea of a front axle leaf spring conversion is at best foolish idea, replacing the 8 inch front diff with a 9.5 is not. The (edit: "Front") diff is IMHO the weak link of the '80. I have personally been on hand to see 5 of them fail. Backing up under load, spinning and grabbing traction... BOOM! There go the teeth. Yep, they work great for most of us. Generally speaking the reverse cut teeth and opposite rotation bring it up to acceptable strength for powering forward. But when you have to back up, now you are on the weak side of a tiny little pinion/ring gear. They are not really stout enough for worry free tasking of pushing heavily loaded rigs backwards out of bad spots.

I have no plans to do away with the 8 inch under the front of any of my '80s. I keep telling myself that I use my '80s gently. I am starting to think that my standards may be different than many LOL... but none of my '80s will ever be all out trail rigs. Hopefully the 6th 8 inch reverse cut failure I see won't be one of mine.

Mark...

 

[glasiys]

While I think that The OPs idea of a front axle leaf spring conversion is at best foolish idea, replacing the 8 inch front diff with a 9.5 is not. The diff is IMHO the weak link of the rig. I have personally been on hand to see 5 of them fail. Backing up under load, spinning and grabbing traction... BOOM! There go the teeth. Yep, they work great for most of us. Generally speaking the reverse cut teeth and opposite rotation bring it up to acceptable strength for powering forward. But when you have to back up, now you are on the weak side of a tiny little pinion/ring gear. They are not really stout enough for worry free tasking of pushing heavily loaded rigs backwards out of bad spots.

I have no plans to do away with the 8 inch under the front of any of my '80s. I keep telling myself that I use my '80s gently. I am starting to think that my standards may be different than many LOL... but none of my '80s will ever be all out trail rigs. Hopefully the 6th 8 inch reverse cut failure I see won't be one of mine.

Mark...

humm i never knew that very good point. so your saying the 9.5 third would be weak becuse it would be running in reverse?

 

[Mark W]

humm i never knew that very good point. so your saying the 9.5 third would be weak becuse it would be running in reverse?

Well, any diff is weaker running backwards. So, a 9.5 in the front is weaker than the same 9.5 in the rear (when driving forward). But the 9.5 is stout enough to take the stress when the rig is going forward with no complaints. Most of the time, in most situations the front diff is much more lightly loaded than the rear when you are going forward. It is when you are backing out of a hole that the front diff sees the most load. Whether it is slinging and clawing your way out of a deep mud hole, spinning on ice (and suddenly finding bare frozen sand!!!) or grunting the rig up over a rock lip... when the nose is low and you are backing up hill... that is the time the front diff is taxed. Since the 9.5 is stronger and a non reverse cut diff is running on the strong side when you are backing up, you do not have the concerns that you do with the reverse cut 8 inch in the same situation.


Mark...

 

[glasiys]

Well, any diff is weaker running backwards. So, a 9.5 in the front is weaker than the same 9.5 in the rear (when driving forward). But the 9.5 is stout enough to take the stress when the rig is going forward with no complaints. Most of the time, in most situations the front diff is much more lightly loaded than the rear when you are going forward. It is when you are backing out of a hole that the front diff sees the most load. Whether it is slinging and clawing your way out of a deep mud hole, spinning on ice (and suddenly finding bare frozen sand!!!) or grunting the rig up over a rock lip... when the nose is low and you are backing up hill... that is the time the front diff is taxed. Since the 9.5 is stronger and a non reverse cut diff is running on the strong side when you are backing up, you do not have the concerns that you do with the reverse cut 8 inch in the same situation.


Mark...

i do have a deep cut reverre gear set ring and pin

 

[Mark W]

i do have a deep cut reverre gear set ring and pin

All '80 front diffs are 8 inch reverse cut/reverse rotation. That is why they are weakest backing up. ALL 9.5 diffs are standard cut/standard rotation. That is why (in the front axle location) they are strongest backing up.

Mark...

 

[glasiys]

im kind of jumping into this. the main resson id like to swap the axle is i got a good deal on it with LOTS of spare parts and id like a 6.5 in lift but with the rear track bar and coils n sptings its goning to really set me back almost 2 grand (ironman) with the 3 link sety up being 450 on the low end. the 9,5 in housing i have is bare bones and i really dont want to put the stock caster arms back on... thast i was was thinking leafs just for the money and time

 

[Mark W]

If you want to build a hacked up half assed rig to take out and beat and break, go for it. But understand going in, that is what you are talking about here.

The strength of the '80 series is its general purpose capability. Arguably the coil spring suspension is its greatest asset. Put leafs under it and it WILL not be as capable. If you want leafs... start with another platform.

My primary '80 sits on 6 inches of lift and I run 35s. Probably moving to 37s for my next set of tires. I consider it a medium capable trail rig that often sees daily driver duties and long highway runs as well. That said, I routinely take it the 70 miles beyond the end of the road to get to hunting camp or just enjoying the back country away from people. 3-4 foot water crossings, long bogs, steep loose LONG hills and pretty rough trail. The only other rigs I see once I get to and beyond those distances back there are running 38 inch swampers/boggers on up to 59 inch ag tires. Can I go everywhere they go? Of course not. If I want to do that, I take the '40. Do I go places in my general purpose '80 where 90% of the the stickered up jeeps and boys in their trucks don't go. Yep, I drive a Cruiser.

You keep mentioning 6 inch of lift, but no mention of tire size/type. gearing, power or lockers. And you keep talking about pinching pennies. I think you need to rethink your approach.

You don't need to butcher your rig to get a 6 inch lift. You do not need 6 inches to run 35s. WITH 6 you will still only run 37s unless you are going to limit the articulation significantly. Running larger than 35s WILL call for more gear and or power if you want to play in any real mud. That is gonna cost you a LOT more than a proper lift for your '80.


Mark...

 

[Lumpskie]

While I think that The OPs idea of a front axle leaf spring conversion is at best foolish idea, replacing the 8 inch front diff with a 9.5 is not. The (edit: "Front") diff is IMHO the weak link of the '80. I have personally been on hand to see 5 of them fail. Backing up under load, spinning and grabbing traction... BOOM! There go the teeth. Yep, they work great for most of us. Generally speaking the reverse cut teeth and opposite rotation bring it up to acceptable strength for powering forward. But when you have to back up, now you are on the weak side of a tiny little pinion/ring gear. They are not really stout enough for worry free tasking of pushing heavily loaded rigs backwards out of bad spots.

I have no plans to do away with the 8 inch under the front of any of my '80s. I keep telling myself that I use my '80s gently. I am starting to think that my standards may be different than many LOL... but none of my '80s will ever be all out trail rigs. Hopefully the 6th 8 inch reverse cut failure I see won't be one of mine.

Mark...

I get what you are saying. Like you hinted at... people will manage to break, or not break, anything based on the way they drive.
I guess I was more trying to figure out what the OP is looking for. Why would you take a working, functional solid front axle out? Did he already break it? Is he planning on runninga setup with giant tires, turbo and blatant disregard? If not, the easy answer might be the best... throw some 6" springs on there with some Slee arms and have fun.

@glasiys

On that note, why not surf the classified section here and wait for some slee springs and slee arms. When you get those, throw on any long shock of your choice (maybe someone is selling a complete Slee kit) and have fun? Until you get your 6" lift setup, why don't you fab up some sliders and have fun as it sits? I threw 315s on my rig along with sliders/skids and wheeled that way for almost 2 years. I got almost everywhere I get with my 3" Slinky setup now. I had fun and my rig didn't break. Plus, if you don't beat it up, it will be worth a lot more money when you sell it that way.



EDIT:
Here's a 6" spring and control arm setup asking $1500

SOLD - Northern Colorado- 80 series Slee 6" lift springs, Slee lower control arms, OME N73L/N74L shocks-UPDATE

Anyone getting ready for Cruise Moab 2020??? Slee 6" springs, medium fronts and heavy rears. I have the previous generation lower control arms (with newer bushings, a few years old) and have N73L/N74L shocks that are part of the package although not photographed as they are still on my 80...

forum.ih8mud.com

You'd need shocks and the same drive shaft mods you'd need with a leaf spring setup... but without all the negative side effects.

DOUBLE EDIT:

Here's a DC Driveshaft:

SOLD - 80 series D/C front drive shaft

Selling the double cardan front shaft I had built about a yr ago I had a 3” J lift on my LC, went to a 6” slee and part time t-case with locking hubs. The shaft was built by Adco drive lines in Shingle springs ca Still visible in the pics are the painted alignment arrows. I brought the cardan...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[glasiys]

ill have to take a look at that lift but with eveyones advice im thinking im going to go 3 link. my frount axle is "okay" as it sits and i think all make some caster drop brackets for where it mounts to the frame and just go with a small lift untill i have a link system setup... im not suerp sure if i want a y link or 3 link

 

[glasiys]

ill keep eveyone updated with my frankstien fj

 

[JeepinPete]

If you really need to watch the budget, a 3" body lift and some trimming will get 37"s on an 80. I've got around 35k miles on a set of 365/75R16 (37.5x14.3) with said body lift. For the money, I really have zero complaints.

 

[Heckraiser]

i have a 9.5in rear axle cut down adn notched for a front, thinking about 6 shooters the resson i was thinking leafs front and rear is, for the amount of flex with leafs and coils i feel its not the biggest difference. but if i was to left it at least 6.5in for the rear and front wouldi have to extend the arms? or get dropped caster arms? one reason id like leafs in the front is its gonna to be a low cheaper then a 3 link i would assume and as for the rear it should be very easy. i have a set of spare axles to weld on.

Six shooters will only fit a mini truck axle. What is your custom 9.5 front made out of? What kind of knuckle balls are on the end of it? The only true high-steer knuckles that fit 80 knuckle balls are Hellfire at about $1100 a pop.

 

[maxamillion2345]

So are you welding mini truck knuckle balls to a 9.5 housing to run 6 shooters? Is that even possible?

63s up front are a no go. Run some 52” chevys or yj springs or mini truck rears or maybe 60 series fronts. Lots of options but 63s are not a good front choice. 63s are great for rear. 1/2 ton pack and french your hangers or you’re gonna end up with stupid amount of lift for your size tires.

If you’re gonna go stupid cheap on the 3 link then just don’t even bother. Might as well run factory radius arms and drop brackets.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Cheap underfunded builds always end up with a truck that is hacked junk. Don't do it unless you are fully ready to throw this truck away. It happens all the time here on ih8mud. Someone wants to build a great offroader with no money. It always ends badly.

If $450 is you budget, stop now and get some decent used tires, because that's what you can afford.

Remember if you do go to a 9.5 front, you will also want to part time it, because with the lift you are talking, you will never get a proper driveline angle.

I'd recommend you get a 4 inch lift, some 35s (this will be about $2500 - $3000 or so) and call it good. You might see if someone is selling a coil spring lift for a bit less. You'll have a drivable useful truck that can go basically everywhere. Then, if you find there is somewhere you can't go, start modifying.

 

[slow95z]

you could always flip the radius arms for cheap.