Longer studs for wheel spacers

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I thought 200's where lug centric? Or are they both lug centric and hub centric?

The devil is in the details!
 
Below is the Nitro spacer M14x1.5 nut next to a Spidertrax spacer M12x?? nut. The Spidertrax spacers are old 6 lug spacers I had laying around in my shop.

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the spcer nuts are long but ai am not comfortable not threading them completly.

I will purchase 1" thick spacers as this is cheaper than replacing 20 studs at $16 bucks each.
For 14x1.5 studs, the rule of thumb of is 7.5 turns of hardware engagement. Others say, there should be a minimum of 14mm of thread engaged (equal to the diameter of the studs). If you qualify on both measurements, I wouldn't have a problem with it.
 
For 14x1.5 studs, the rule of thumb of is 7.5 turns of hardware engagement. Others say, there should be a minimum of 14mm of thread engaged (equal to the diameter of the studs). If you qualify on both measurements, I wouldn't have a problem with it.

thanks, 7.5 turns @ 1.5 pitch should be 11.25mm of thread engagement. never had a case where the nut was so long as to have me doubting.

On steel structure erection the rule of thumb we use is to have the bolt thread protrude d/2 or r (of the bolt) past the nut. Usually the engineer/inspector does not want bolts sticking out way past the nut for aesthetic and safety reasons. Also, if the torque where to loosen, at least there is some more thread to hold on to.
 
Not really. Given a matched nut/bolt, the load is distributed 100% over the first ~6 threads. It is designed such that the bolt/lug will sustain a tensile fracture before the nut strips.

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details on tire size/lift?
 
details on tire size/lift?

bought it used with what looks like OME 2" lift front ... rear is stock ... wheels 20" x 8" +60 offset ... tires are 305/55 r20 ... running wheel 1.25" spacers ... some rubbing on inner fender ... busting out the heat gun and hammer soon
 
I have 1.25" spidertrax spacers on my 200. Now that I've switched to the +60 RWs I'm considering removing them. My wheel studs look similar to uhuru's in the picture. Do I need to swap wheel studs from the spacer and replace the ones on the hub or will I be good using the ones on there? I'm assuming they installed longer ones on the hub. Also for removal, should i plan to use a heat gun on the nuts and then impact them out?

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I have 1.25" spidertrax spacers on my 200. Now that I've switched to the +60 RWs I'm considering removing them. My wheel studs look similar to uhuru's in the picture. Do I need to swap wheel studs from the spacer and replace the ones on the hub or will I be good using the ones on there? I'm assuming they installed longer ones on the hub. Also for removal, should i plan to use a heat gun on the nuts and then impact them out?

View attachment 2409454

Those should be factory wheel studs and you won't have to do anything to them after taking the spacers off. The wheels should bolt up no problem.
 
That's good news. Thanks for the response.
 
That's good news. Thanks for the response.
IF that is red loctite do not just try to impact those lugs loose. It will shear the studs right off. You need heat to get that stuff loose without destroying the hardware.
 
IF that is red loctite do not just try to impact those lugs loose. It will shear the studs right off. You need heat to get that stuff loose without destroying the hardware.
Heat up as in with a heat gun or are we talking about using a torch?
 
Red loctite is beyond heat gun range, I forget the spec, maybe 450 deg?
Grinchy is correct, propane or MAP gas torch should get it. Don’t go red hot or anything, but it will take some heat.
 
If the OP used the red material provided by Spydertrax it may behove him to email them for their suggestion. Just because it's red doesn't mean it's Loctite.
Just trying to take the simplest way out of this.
 

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