Longer studs for wheel spacers

[Supra88]

If the OP used the red material provided by Spydertrax it may behove him to email them for their suggestion. Just because it's red doesn't mean it's Loctite.
Just trying to take the simplest way out of this.

Good idea. I called them. They said if the installer put a couple of drops on per the instructions they should just break loose no problem. So their stance is no heat required. Since I didn't install them I'll probably try to gently break them free. If they don't move I'll heat 'em up.

 

[bloc]

If the OP used the red material provided by Spydertrax it may behove him to email them for their suggestion. Just because it's red doesn't mean it's Loctite.
Just trying to take the simplest way out of this.

Great point. If it’s another manufacturer’s version of loctite blue heat might not be required.

Whatever it is once you get the lugs off I’d use a wire brush and maybe find a solvent that will cut it to get all of it off the threads before reinstalling your wheels.

 

[RET2]

Great point. If it’s another manufacturer’s version of loctite blue heat might not be required.

Whatever it is once you get the lugs off I’d use a wire brush and maybe find a solvent that will cut it to get all of it off the threads before reinstalling your wheels.

Solvent and running the lug nuts on and off a few times when wet?

 

[bloc]

Good idea. I called them. They said if the installer put a couple of drops on per the instructions they should just break loose no problem. So their stance is no heat required. Since I didn't install them I'll probably try to gently break them free. If they don't move I'll heat 'em up.

I dunno man.. some shops have a “more is better” attitude to a lot of things.
I’ve sheared bolts right off that turned out to have red thread locker on them. I’m afraid I wouldn’t know the line between busting loose the thread locker and starting to twist the stud off. Heat will definitely resolve the issue though.

If you are comfortable with your estimation of a certain torque value not to go above (because most torque wrenches aren’t reliable turning left) go for it. But personally I’d grab a cheap torch from the store just to avoid the risk.

Solvent and running the lug nuts on and off a few times when wet?

The short lugs getting thrown away maybe. Not your RW lugs. A wire hand brush and the right solvent would make that redundant though, I’d think.

 

[RET2]

I dunno man.. some shops have a “more is better” attitude to a lot of things.
I’ve sheared bolts right off that turned out to have red thread locker on them. I’m afraid I wouldn’t know the line between busting loose the thread locker and starting to twist the stud off. Heat will definitely resolve the issue though.

If you are comfortable with your estimation of a certain torque value not to go above (because most torque wrenches aren’t reliable turning left) go for it. But personally I’d grab a cheap torch from the store just to avoid the risk.



The short lugs getting thrown away maybe. Not your RW lugs. A wire hand brush and the right solvent would make that redundant though, I’d think.

Just another shining example of if you want it done right do it yourself. That being said none of us ever done anything the wrong way. ha ha

 

[bloc]

Just another shining example of if you want it done right do it yourself. That being said none of us ever done anything the wrong way. ha ha

Oh I have!!

 

[Supra88]

Agree that if you want something done right do it yourself. In this case the previous owner put these on so I have no history. I have a torch and I think it makes sense to put some heat on the studs to be safe. Can't hurt. And also agree that I won't use the $$$$ RW lugs to clean up the threads!

As far as knowing torque limits, I broke off a bolt head on one of my 80's ABS sensors yesterday! So I must not be a very good judge of torque! Now I'm gonna have to pull the whole thing apart. doh!

 

[RET2]

Agree that if you want something done right do it yourself. In this case the previous owner put these on so I have no history. I have a torch and I think it makes sense to put some heat on the studs to be safe. Can't hurt. And also agree that I won't use the $$$$ RW lugs to clean up the threads!

As far as knowing torque limits, I broke off a bolt head on one of my 80's ABS sensors yesterday! So I must not be a very good judge of torque! Now I'm gonna have to pull the whole thing apart. doh!

Keep us updated please?

 

[Supra88]

Keep us updated please?

Will do.

 

[bencallaway]

Problem solved!View attachment 1438152 View attachment 1438156

View attachment 1438154

So you got shorter nuts instead of longer studs?

 

[nwfl4runner]

Solvent and running the lug nuts on and off a few times when wet?

Heat up the lugs and melt the thread locker, pull the lug nuts off and just let the stud dry. Wire brush will remove it. Also a good heat gun will work on the threadlocker but will be slower Than a torch.

 

[RET2]

Heat up the lugs and melt the thread locker, pull the lug nuts off and just let the stud dry. Wire brush will remove it. Also a good heat gun will work on the threadlocker but will be slower Than a torch.

FWIW I was referring to the cleaning after initial removal of spacers.

 

[nwfl4runner]

FWIW I was referring to the cleaning after initial removal of spacers.

sorry that’s what I meant - I find old thread locker is much easier to remove if dry - a brush just flakes it off

 

[Supra88]

Keep us updated please?

Pulled the spacers off today. Heated them up with some propane and then spun them off.

Question:

Does this look like the factory length stud? I'm getting about 7.5 threads of engagement.

 

[jeproks]

Yes an inch

 

[Valgrind]

Not to revive an old thread, but did it get confirmed that the Dorman Wheel Studs 610-332 are the correct ones for a 200 series?

Are the tundra wheel studs the same size? Because im seeing tundra guys use different ones.