- Thread starter
- #21
Im wondering if I can peen it somwhere to kind of break whatever is siezed? Grasping, I know...
Locked NOt seized 2F
- Thread starter SkinnyD
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I mean pull the plugs and squirt automatic transmission fluid on each cylinder and let it sit. The ATF works really well on seized engines. I have done this on multiple engines with success everytime. If that doesn't free it up then it's something else binding it. I'm not sure what else could be binding it though. Stuck In gear with bound transmission? Maybe but doubtful. Valve train looks good so doubt it's rusted up internally. Unless you cracked the block and had water get in the engine internally. Maybe fly wheel hung up on starter.
Maybe drain the oil and see what comes out. If it looks good with no water or debri then you might drop the pan. If that checks out then pull the head.
Looks like you found the issue. I have never used atf on a seized transmission. Dont know if it would work. I would probably pull it and inspect and clean it up or rebuild it if needed. Then put proper fluid in it. I would pull it and see if the engine will rotate first.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Living in the Past
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Doesn't sound like you have a transmission issue if you can shift to neutral and can spin the transfer case outputs with the transfer case in gear. Hopefully the transmission is not rusted. If you have rust inside would just buy another one verses rebuilding and end up replacing bearings, gears and shafts. Cheaper just finding a good used one. Found the cheapest way to be sure something doesn't break is to buy a spare a two when you don't need one. When the rear output bearing in the transfer case on my 65 FJ45LP-B starting going out on the trip home from buying it I just throw in a $25 spare case I had. It's the quietest one piece transfer case I had ever run.
Living in the Past
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I picked up out of a wrecking yard a transmission and transfer case out of a FJ25. Had water inside. Everything spun freely. After draining the water I fill it automatic transmission fluid. Didn't need the T/T but was never going to find one again. SOR at the time was selling them for over $1,500. It's still sitting on a self full wit ATF.
- Thread starter
- #27
My next route. Thank you sir!
A 50/50 mix of cheapest auto trans fluid and Acetone. GENTLY tap the sides of the block near each cylinder with a ballpeen to set up vibration that will initiate capillary penetration of the solvent. Takes a few days, or more. Suggestion above is good to get a cheap USB borescope (amz) to see how rusty cylinders are.
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- #29
Thank you all for the time. It has helped greatly. Borescope purchase on my horizon. Someday, a noob like myself will need the attention y'all have given me. I'll gladly pay it forward! On a positive note. 2000 4runner 4x4 just hit 352,000 on the clock. My daily driver. No leaks and in general a decent running rig!
FWIW, I was given a F1.5 block that had quite a ventilation crack in the side. It was left outside for a long time, uncovered. I wanted to save what I could of the internals and crank and once the head was off revealing a solid rusty mess, I poured the above mix in the cylinders and gave it a good long weeks of soak (topping up when necessary), and eventually all the pistons came out, even the ones that took a couple of months banging on with wood and a sledge to get them to free up. Some were damaged from the hammering, but they did eventually free up. The stuff works.
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- #33
After popping the top and side PTO cover, I apllied about a half can PB to everything. No visible rust. Parts are moving by manually turning the outputs but not all, all 3 shift fork shafts are moving forward to back. I have yet to replace the clutch master and slave. I have however manually engaged the clutch with a pry bar. No joy. I will borescope the cylinders this weekend and plan on seperating the engine from the tranny. THAT will isolate the culprit for sure. Thanks again all. I will certainly share my findings.
middlecalf
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I have the BlueFire borescope, (mine's not yellow, IDK who thought that would be a good idea)
but a search for "usb borescope with light" will turn up dozens just as good and cheaper, and now WiFi enabled, so you don't have to tether it to your phone.
My guess is the input on transmission is seized, I would pull the trans/tcase back/remove and focus on the engine first. See if engine can rotate. You said you can spin tcase output (rear). Can you spin tcase with it in high, spin rear with trans in a gear? Or with trans in neutral? Trans will prob be coming out for some r&r anyway. H42's are easy to find.
Engine will need to be sorted anyway. One piece at a time. Get the engine to spin first, then possibly fire, then compression test. If not pop the head off and hone, possibly rering and go
Engine will need to be sorted anyway. One piece at a time. Get the engine to spin first, then possibly fire, then compression test. If not pop the head off and hone, possibly rering and go
Living in the Past
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Believe he said he already used a prybar to push the clutch in. Not sure he has tried to spin a transfer case output flange to verify the input shaft and clutch disc are able to spin with the clutch pushed in and transmission in gear. The 75 transmission does have the cover on the right side and he has stated that has been removed and no rust was seen on the gears. If he can verify the clutch disc can spin then unless something is locking the pressure plate (doubtful) the issue is in the engine.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Take a prybar and turn the flywheel using the bellhousing as leverage. Go both directions back and forth. Fwiw, I had a seized f engine that required a 6 foot cheater bar to break free!!!( I highly doubt the trans is the issue) also diesel fuel is a great old school penatrant.
A common mistake in starting a rebuilt engine is not having the distributor installed far enough to engage the oil pump drive leading to a loss of oil pressure and seizing of the rod bearings. This can often be remedied by changing out new rod bearings and polishing the crank journals with 1200 grit silicon carbide paper.
