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UMMM... No. Definitely not!!! I'm hanging on a cliff here!!! LOL! I will keep all updated. Thanks 1MAC.Am i the only one who is on the edge of their seat, anxiously awaiting the outcome of this thread? You’re killing me!
UMMM... No. Definitely not!!! I'm hanging on a cliff here!!! LOL! I will keep all updated. Thanks 1MAC.Am i the only one who is on the edge of their seat, anxiously awaiting the outcome of this thread? You’re killing me!
Am i the only one who is on the edge of their seat, anxiously awaiting the outcome of this thread? You’re killing me!
I had the same thing on a very early long parked up FJ40. Don't waste your time with the head. Pull the pan and look for rust/corrosion under the pistons. If you find it, you can pull the head and knock the pistons out upwards.Good Sunday morning all! Well, well, well. The parts Gods shined light on me earlier than expected. OEM master and slave clutch parts arrived way ahaed of schedule. I made quick work of installing and getting operable. Side Note... I am learning that FJ maintenance is indeed compared to working on a farm tractor! I digress. As far as my mechanical mind will stretch, I am fairly certain that my engine is indeed the source of my woes.
CONDITION=
Rear drive shaft removed, front hubs unlocked. In gear, clutch engaged, Main shaft spins free. Front and rear outputs spin. Clutrch disengaged, in gear front and rear outputs spin, with t-case in all 3 modes. These conditions being present, I'm calling the drive train fit for duty.
On to the engine. Still wont budge via front of the crankshaft nor the teeth on the flywheel. Not a smidge. She's just locked. Before I put this machine back in it's stall I think I'll pull the starter to confirm that it's not interfering. Just for good measure and giggles. I'll store with a cocktail of ATF and Acetone and possibly Diesel and keep it topped off. Who knows? It may break free. On the horizon my plan is to dissasemble to find the bind. Head first, drop the pan and visually verify what is amiss. I'm hoping that as TORNADOALLEYCRUISER suggested, I can hone, re-ring and polish the crank journals and be off to the races.
Not the worst news but this rig is currently serving it's purpose. Enjoyment. Here in the hills we have a saying, "Its paid for and it aint eating much." I want to extend a sincere thanks to ALL that have helped with suggestions and pointers. THANKS! As usual, I will rely on this board's graciousness to guide me through the next part of this awesome adventure. And I suspect like most here, I'll monitor these forums more than I should, HA!
"Endeavor to persevere" is my mantra with this project. CHEERS!!!
Thanks locklaw. With my borescope, i have not seen the first bit of rust. Including what little I can see through the oil pan drain. Puzzling! But good advice that I'll heed. Currently, my spidey sense is leaning towards a spun bearing. Bottom up will be my direction. THANKS!I had the same thing on a very early long parked up FJ40. Don't waste your time with the head. Pull the pan and look for rust/corrosion under the pistons. If you find it, you can pull the head and knock the pistons out upwards.
If not rusty, start pulling bearing caps one by one to see which one is seized/funky.
O.K. middlecalf, I'm starting to see your point. Slowly. LOL! My last entry was a bad narrative. I just went out to verify that CONDITION= clutch disengaged, meaning pedal is static with no foot pressure. The gear box spins freely BUT putting it in to any gear stops all rotation. You are correct Sir! In my excitement I kinda got away from my good sense of communication. Thanks for helping me clarify!!!“CONDITION=
Rear drive shaft removed, front hubs unlocked. In gear, clutch engaged, Main shaft spins free. Front and rear outputs spin. Clutrch disengaged, in gear front and rear outputs spin, with t-case in all 3 modes. These conditions being present, I'm calling the drive train fit for duty.”
I’ll keep reading your description above, but I’m struggling with the statement that ”front and rear outputs spin” with the clutch “engaged” and “disengaged.” Depending on what you mean by engaged and disengaged, with a seized motor one of those conditions would not let the “front and rear outputs spin.”
Spot on kckfj4o! Thats welcome news as my facility is somewhat limited.I had a similar issue with my 71. Frozen from sitting for over a decade Here is what I had to do to free it.
1- soak each cylinder for several days with your favorite penetration oil
2 - Yank head off and remove any visible bore rust with 1000 grit wet/dry cloth
3- Drop oil pan
4- disconnect all connecting rods/caps.(make sure to mark them for reinstallation in same cylinder and orientation
5- find which cylinders are frozen
6 - trim a 4x4 post to fit nicely in the bore to the piston
7- hit the frozen piston(s) free
8 - remove each piston and inspect piston and bore for issues
9- do a light cylinder hone
10- reassemble
All the above you can do with the engine in place.
I can't remember which pistons were frozen but I do remember I had to use a sledgehammer to free up one of them.
I would recommend replacing rings and all bottom bearings since you have it all apart.