Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (2 Viewers)

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Did you see @BILT4ME response to your post on my thread? You can’t miss his golden nuggets (so to speak). Here you go.

Thanks Pell.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I've been busy, but not doing a great job keeping up with the LC here on the forum. I did manage to get the Booster and Master all in and the I ding a lot brake bleeding with my Motive and the Power probe attachment. I did have a bleeder nipple rusted shut. This was my approach to getting out:

I made use of some penetrating oil overnight, I like Kroil. I hammered it and also used the rounded bolt vise grips, but it only broke loose after I heated it all up with MAPP gas then shot it with freeze off. I cycled this two times and hammered each time. I then used the Irwin rounded nut extractor sockets. the 10mm one grabbed it with my little impact driver that is slowly dying. But the new bleeder went it and I preceded to bleed...the brakes.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Brake Bleeding

This was my most successful brake bleeding to date. The money spent on the Motive was excellent. I used the Power Probe BA-10 and it all went great. The brake fluid was old and beat and needed to be replaced. The fluid coming out of the calipers was very brown and full of debris. Im sure that is a terrible sign, but I'm not quite ready to go after the hardlines yet. I bleed the LSPV and also took the rig for a drive to go activate the ABS a dozen times in some slippery icy mud. How messy and fun. Then I did the last round of bleeding. The brakes feel great lots of power, but my push rod adjustment for the booster is off. I have lots of pedal travel. I just got the @landtank booster adjuster in the mail (its a heck of a good deal on his website) so it looks like I'll be removing the booster to try and get the pushrod adjust meant right. The brakes feel very strong, but but they take a long push to engage. Here are some photos

I also installed my Dobinsons LSPV bracket that I ordered adn promptly installed it upside down. I found a reasonable position for it to be in without interfering with the suspension links. I think I actually have it upside-down but I did adjust the nuts on the LSPV bracket so I could get some clearance. I actually think I was able to make my rear brakes do some work. Once I get my booster pushrod adjusted correctly I'll report about brake feel.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Making Holes

I began the process of making my hole in the rear quarter panel. I struggled to find the best spot. @Feldrian's locker build has been a big inspiration, so I copied him and found a nice little firewall grommet to bring in my air lines. In the first phot you can see I have them routed in via the wire harness. This is temporary so the rig can be drivable. Space was tight for running a drill with my 4x4Labs bumper. My cordless drill wouldn't fit. Right angle drills are pretty expensive, so I bought a HF right angle air drill. it was about $70 and it worked...not great on my tiny compressor, but it worked. I have the hole drilled and I'm ready to put in my grommet after some sanding and rust protection work. I think I'm only running my airlines in this hole, and not power too, but I want to run my 2 gage power back to the quarter panel and make sure I like the run through the cab.

My garage is a hot mess of QPM layout right now. Electrical components, heat shrink, cable ties, crimpers, cutters, and a small fortune in BlueSea Systems gear. I think I have all the necessary bits to start bolting it up. Once I start that process I share some more photos.

 

[FMC80]

Doing work! How did it feel drilling into your girl? (so to speak)

 

[Dusten]

Brake Bleeding

This was my most successful brake bleeding to date. The money spent on the Motive was excellent. I used the Power Probe BA-10 and it all went great. The brake fluid was old and beat and needed to be replaced. The fluid coming out of the calipers was very brown and full of debris. Im sure that is a terrible sign, but I'm not quite ready to go after the hardlines yet. I bleed the LSPV and also took the rig for a drive to go activate the ABS a dozen times in some slippery icy mud. How messy and fun. Then I did the last round of bleeding. The brakes feel great lots of power, but my push rod adjustment for the booster is off. I have lots of pedal travel. I just got the @landtank booster adjuster in the mail (its a heck of a good deal on his website) so it looks like I'll be removing the booster to try and get the pushrod adjust meant right. The brakes feel very strong, but but they take a long push to engage. Here are some photosView attachment 3260157View attachment 3260160I also installed my Dobinsons LSPV bracket that I ordered adn promptly installed it upside down. I found a reasonable position for it to be in without interfering with the suspension links. I think I actually have it upside-down but I did adjust the nuts on the LSPV bracket so I could get some clearance. I actually think I was able to make my rear brakes do some work. Once I get my booster pushrod adjusted correctly I'll report about brake feel. View attachment 3260162

I'm glad we didn't over hype the motive.

I wonder though at what point is a rusted nipple just worth replacing the caliper?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I'm glad we didn't over hype the motive.

I wonder though at what point is a rusted nipple just worth replacing the caliper?

I had faith in the motive, my research indicated that folks who liked it had a good adaptor, and folks who didn’t had the universal one and struggled with it.

I debated replacing the caliper, and it would have been my next move, but two things made me choose to fight with the bleeder:

1. I am moving to the rust belt…so skill improvement?
2. Calipers are only a few years old. Felt silly to replace it.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Doing work! How did it feel drilling into your girl? (so to speak)

It was odd to deliberately make a hole in the sheet metal. I will say it’s stout!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

It’s snowing again so I’m going to spend the day getting after the cruiser in the driveway. I also forgot to mention that I replaced all the door panel plastic sheets with actual Toyota ones this weekend….except the drivers door. Thant one will have to wait until it’s not raining. Hopefully the new belt mounding will be keeping things a bit dryer.

No photos, the butyl tape is so messy that I wasn’t taking photos and I was racing the clock.

 

[FMC80]

It’s snowing again so I’m going to spend the day getting after the cruiser in the driveway. I also forgot to mention that I replaced all the door panel plastic sheets with actual Toyota ones this weekend….except the drivers door. Thant one will have to wait until it’s not raining. Hopefully the new belt mounding will be keeping things a bit dryer.

No photos, the butyl tape is so messy that I wasn’t taking photos and I was racing the clock.

The Toyota door plastic doesn’t come with the butyl tape right? Do you have sound deadening already or any plans for it in the future?

 

[ozarkmud]

As far as ABS and snow goes, the most useful thing is definitely tires that do well in the snow. The LSPV is nice, but if you have clearance issues I'd definitely consider just doing a manual proportioning valve.

I have that same Motive setup and it worked well for me. Still does seem harder to get a good firm pedal with ABS, but setting the push rod length is probably a great next step. I haven't done that yet.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

The Toyota door plastic doesn’t come with the butyl tape right? Do you have sound deadening already or any plans for it in the future?

WHAT?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

The Toyota door plastic doesn’t come with the butyl tape right? Do you have sound deadening already or any plans for it in the future?

Sorry I had to make a dad joke.

You are correct no butyl tape. I not a box of 3m strip caulk and it worked great and is easy to store and manage. One box will probably do two cruisers.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

As far as ABS and snow goes, the most useful thing is definitely tires that do well in the snow. The LSPV is nice, but if you have clearance issues I'd definitely consider just doing a manual proportioning valve.

I have that same Motive setup and it worked well for me. Still does seem harder to get a good firm pedal with ABS, but setting the push rod length is probably a great next step. I haven't done that yet.

^^^this! Tires are 100% the most important component for winter driving. I have general grabbers at2 and they work well. They are a triple peak tire and handled a white knuckle drive through a BC and Alberta night blizzard really well. They have lots of tread left so I’ll keep using them. But I had them at 25 psi for that crazy drive and I think that helped. I normally run them much higher for dry highway conditions.

My Tacoma has some Goodyear mild AT tires that are ok, but I’ll spring for the Falken wild peak ATs or the Goodyear Duratracks next year for the rig and see how they do. I’d prefer not to run a dedicated winter tire, if only to save storage space, but snow tires on my Subaru transformed it into a fantastic winter vehicle. Unfortunately the forester is no longer available in a M/T which I think made it such a great winter rig. So if I need to go snow tires and better A/Ts on the taco I will do it.

Back to snow wrenching….

 

[baldilocks]

I've been busy, but not doing a great job keeping up with the LC here on the forum. I did manage to get the Booster and Master all in and the I ding a lot brake bleeding with my Motive and the Power probe attachment. I did have a bleeder nipple rusted shut. This was my approach to getting out:View attachment 3260141I made use of some penetrating oil overnight, I like Kroil. I hammered it and also used the rounded bolt vise grips, but it only broke loose after I heated it all up with MAPP gas then shot it with freeze off. I cycled this two times and hammered each time. I then used the Irwin rounded nut extractor sockets. the 10mm one grabbed it with my little impact driver that is slowly dying. But the new bleeder went it and I preceded to bleed...the brakes.

I like that orange wrench…. It’s important to keep the bleeders capped off to help keep them from seizing up in the caliper.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I like that orange wrench…. It’s important to keep the bleeders capped off to help keep them from seizing up in the caliper.

I am going to grab some bleeder caps at NAPA asap.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Better Brakes

I finished up my brake work today. Accomplished the following:

• Pulled MC and used the @landtank booster adjustment tool to check my push rod depth. Turns out it was close, but I did adjust it a bit. I was able to do the adjustment with the booster on the firewall. Long reach angled pliers are your friend.
• I blead the MC and then the system.
• Brakes were soft and low on my test drive.
• visited a gas station
• Drove to a snowy parking lot and banged away on my ABS a bunch.
• Blead the system again.
• Tested all the booster function again.
• Tested pedal height.
• I fixed my LSPV bracket so the correct holes were mounted to the axle housing.
• Adjusted my parking brake cable to be strong at 8 clicks.

Brake pedal travel feels much better and the brakes feel the best they have to date. It was a long morning of wrestling with them, but worth it in the end. I actually have the sense that I could probably get a firmer pedal with more ABS activation and bleeding cycles, but I think this is ok for now.

Landtank tool adjusting sequence:

It’s dead simple. Works wonderfully even covered in DOT3 juice.

Next up is finishing my firewall boot mounting to waterproof this QPM.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Das Boot

In my mind this was going to take an hour. Three cold rainy hours later both airlines are routed into the rear quarter panel. I used plastic sleeving to increase abrasion resistance, but I think it’s 200% overkill. The airlines are super thick and should last a very long time. I used a 3m marine sealent caulk to waterproof the grommet. I then proceeded to tear said grommet during my instal. I’m gonna leave it as is. There are drain holes in the bottom of this panel anyway so it’s not like it’s a through hull on a boat. That little grommet is nice but the rubber split while I was fishing the cable through. It probably snagged on the back of one of my screws then tore. I’m not loosing any sleep over it. As you can see my factory grommet still need my love and attention.

 

[FMC80]

Nice!! I like what you’re doing. Are you following someone’s build or making it up as you go along? I need to do this someday when I determine the onboard air system I want. How are you lowering the compressor? Did I miss this somewhere?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Nice!! I like what you’re doing. Are you following someone’s build or making it up as you go along? I need to do this someday when I determine the onboard air system I want. How are you lowering the compressor? Did I miss this somewhere?

Shameless copy of @Feldrian. ARB dual compressor is going on a Wits end QPM.