Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (4 Viewers)

[Somebodyelse5]

I want to retain my ABS as I’ll be living in a snowy place and intend to do some winter traveling in Canada when I move to MN. Won’t be my primary winter rig, but I want to be able to have that help in the snow and ice.

How on earth do folks use this bracket then?

I think as long as you retain your ABS, there won't be any issues... but that's a you decision In any condition other than snow or ice, the bigger tires you run will help prevent the rear from locking up (and if they still lock, you have ABS!). On top of that, you get more force on the front brakes with the two pistons than the rear, so a mechanical bias already. That's enough justification for me to ditch dealing with the LSPV.

Some folks with the SST or pressure gauges say that properly adjusting the LSPV to the FSM specs is noticeable.. but I'm not willing to go that route. it's not a race car.

Honestly I have no idea how anyone uses the bracket... when I tried to install it I sat there staring for 20 minutes thinking I was missing something obvious... no clue how anyone runs it.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I think as long as you retain your ABS, there won't be any issues... but that's a you decision In any condition other than snow or ice, the bigger tires you run will help prevent the rear from locking up (and if they still lock, you have ABS!). On top of that, you get more force on the front brakes with the two pistons than the rear, so a mechanical bias already. That's enough justification for me to ditch dealing with the LSPV.

Some folks with the SST or pressure gauges say that properly adjusting the LSPV to the FSM specs is noticeable.. but I'm not willing to go that route. it's not a race car.

Honestly I have no idea how anyone uses the bracket... when I tried to install it I sat there staring for 20 minutes thinking I was missing something obvious... no clue how anyone runs it.

I’ve done some reading on this topic, but deleting the ABS is a big threshold to cross. It it may be a reality in the future…if my brakes can’t hack it. I’ve locked up the abs in the snow a bunch in the past.

 

[Feldrian]

I’ve done some reading on this topic, but deleting the ABS is a big threshold to cross. It it may be a reality in the future…if my brakes can’t hack it. I’ve locked up the abs in the snow a bunch in the past.

I'm keeping ABS as long as i can - not because i like it, but because i don't like giving insurance company lawyers an easy excuse to screw me over.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I'm keeping ABS as long as i can - not because i like it, but because i don't like giving insurance company lawyers an easy excuse to screw me over.

I agree, I just want to make sure I was clear, I am a big fan of ABS and have zero intention of ditching it. I just don’t like the LSPV

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Still waiting on brake parts and the power probe BA10 adaptor that makes my power bleeder a boss.

So I installed new window runs in all the doors. Now windows go up and down why did I wait so long to do this. I really could use a new motor or two for the front. I think the last few years were hard on them. Maybe I’ll tear them apart and throw some new lube in them.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Still waiting on brake parts and the power probe BA10 adaptor that makes my power bleeder a boss.

So I installed new window runs in all the doors. Now windows go up and down why did I wait so long to do this. I really could use a new motor or two for the front. I think the last few years were hard on them. Maybe I’ll tear them apart and throw some new lube in them.

Any pics!?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Any pics!?

actually no. I was racing what I thought was typical PNW winter rain. Plus it was messy. And I was feeling lazy.

But I will say it was kind of a wrestling match. Glad it’s behind me.

I will probaly have photos to share since I massacred two of the plastic service hole covers to get the runs to feed. I have fresh service hole covers to install, but the 3M butyl seam stuff I have wants it to be warmer.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I received a couple of bits int he mail yestetrday.

I bought a this from Cruiser Yard (@arcteryx) along with a couple of door switches for the rear doors. Apparently when your seatbelts do the Toyota thing and stop retracting quickly or well your kids will slam them in the door and destroy the latches.

The booster came with some gaskets that I think I will be running. I'm stoked to have updated components. However my source, ToolDiscounter.com, for my Power Probe BA10 adaptor for my pressure bleeder replied to my email and said that they would be delayed for a couple of weeks. I read some on line reviews (after already ordering from this retailer ) and it appears this is normalize. I also read a few where things just didn't show up. So have reached out to cancel the order after that was presented as an option. I now have one coming from Amazon...I can't quit you...along with a trailer wiring harness kit, some fancy little brake bleeder catch bottles, and a underhood LED light strip and switch.

Some pressing family needs (sick kids home from school and my MIL in the hospital) have dropped the cruiser down the triage list...so they pace of waiting on Amazon is probably going to work out just fine.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Really Struggling to motivate on my cruiser. Every time head out to start this brake project it begins to pour. Nature is apparel against me. My Powerprobe BA-10 adaptor arrived and after a trip to hardware store for an air line quick connect and some 1/4 ID final tubing its ready to bleed the brakes. The adaptor is very nice and has a fit and finish worthy of $70. Hopefully it preforms as well. For giggles I ran another set of the FSM diagnostic testa on my brake booster and it passed with flying colors. I still think I'm going to install this new Seiken unit and Asin booster so its all new an fresh, but it will be a lot of extra work as compare with bleeding the system.

I'm also in paralysis from analysis over the suspension offerings. I've been researching the following threads/ builds:

Dobinsons 2.5" Lift with MRR Shocks and VT Coils.

Installed my Dobinsons Springs today. Considerably taller than the worn out stock suspension. . It's a 2.5" Lift, but it netted around 4" in it's brand new state. We'll see after I drive it around a bit if it settles some. I'm not impressed at all with the trail gear extended brake lines...

forum.ih8mud.com

This thread is close to what I want to do to my rig.

Dobinsons 3.5" Tapered Lift... or?

I'm looking at ordering a lift kit next month, when the seasonal sales begin. Currently I am leaning towards the Dobinsons 3.5" Tapered Long Travel kit. You can check it out here...

forum.ih8mud.com

this one features some interesting info about the 2.5"VT lift. Key points are even with big weight, the springs will lift WAY over 2.5". Discussions about spring orientation, driveline vibrations, and needs for HD sway bars to improve highway manners.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Just returned from starting the Brake booster and MC removal. Got the master out easy enough. Old fluid was so so bad. The Booster proves to be really difficult to get out. I've read that it can be removed without removing the upper and lower intake manifold...but Im running into lots of problems...If I have to take off the intake to get this booster on I will be disappointed. Stopping for lunch and coffee and mud surfing.

 

[Feldrian]

All of the Dobbie VTs lift more than advertised. I think I netted 5" from my 3.5" VTs. Not sure where the HD sway bar comment is coming from though; my stock rear sway bar was fine before I mounted a bunch of weight in the back and on the bumper. My front bar is still a stock unit and I corner like an a****** just fine.

 

[FMC80]

Keep after it, brother. Like I used to tell my maintainers, except remove F-15/16 and insert cruiser.

What you’re working on is an all-weather cruiser. You’re an all-weather cruiser maintainer.

Now get to work!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Keep after it, brother. Like I used to tell my maintainers, except remove F-15/16 and insert cruiser.

What you’re working on is an all-weather cruiser. You’re an all-weather cruiser maintainer.

Now get to work!

Its true. Hailing now.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

All of the Dobbie VTs lift more than advertised. I think I netted 5" from my 3.5" VTs. Not sure where the HD sway bar comment is coming from though; my stock rear sway bar was fine before I mounted a bunch of weight in the back and on the bumper. My front bar is still a stock unit and I corner like an a****** just fine.

probably just the multivariable nature of all these lift threads. It stood out to me in this thread.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok I decided to increase the force and it all came out.

I didn't mangle the hardliners around the ABS too badly, but they did need to move out of the way quite bit wiggling this big old thing out. Not too bad once I got over the fact that it took more force than I anticipated. We shall see how it all goes when I put the new one in.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I was able to get the MC and Brake Booster all back together with new gaskets and minimal bending to the hardline. I have a little Repair I want to do the the plastic wire loom that attaches to the connector as its all dinged up and brittle. Much to the horror of @FMC80 neither of these parts are Toyota, but they are identical. The booster has the same markings on it as does the MC. The MC has rubber cap rather than a plastic screw type. I am glad I spent all that time last year degreasing the engine bay. Its so much cleaner to work in.

I also removed the LSPV, bracket and arm. I have a shiny new Toyota LSPV and I'll get that bolted up as soon as I get the arm to sit correctly in the valve. The FSM is a bit vague on this, but I need to adjust the valve. However, I'm tired and have some kids to feed and get to play practice etc. So instead of applying more speed and force, I'll get after it tomorrow and hopefully finish the brake bleeding too. I cleaned out some ancient red clay mud (maybe from the rigs early FL days?) from the LSPV boot too. No photos because ti was such a gross mess. In the photo below you can see that the two plastic projections under the LSPV on the new one dont match the old one. They need to rotate clockwise, or to the rig tin the photo about 1/8 -1/4 turn. I think I need to loosen the big nut to do this, but I'm not sure and I dont want to **** up this the part that nobody loves. I'll post up what I discover.

 

[Feldrian]

I was able to get the MC and Brake Booster all back together with new gaskets and minimal bending to the hardline. I have a little Repair I want to do the the plastic wire loom that attaches to the connector as its all dinged up and brittle. Much to the horror of @FMC80 neither of these parts are Toyota, but they are identical. The booster has the same markings on it as does the MC. The MC has rubber cap rather than a plastic screw type. I am glad I spent all that time last year degreasing the engine bay. Its so much cleaner to work in.View attachment 3254757
I also removed the LSPV, bracket and arm. I have a shiny new Toyota LSPV and I'll get that bolted up as soon as I get the arm to sit correctly in the valve. The FSM is a bit vague on this, but I need to adjust the valve. However, I'm tired and have some kids to feed and get to play practice etc. So instead of applying more speed and force, I'll get after it tomorrow and hopefully finish the brake bleeding too. I cleaned out some ancient red clay mud (maybe from the rigs early FL days?) from the LSPV boot too. No photos because ti was such a gross mess. In the photo below you can see that the two plastic projections under the LSPV on the new one dont match the old one. They need to rotate clockwise, or to the rig tin the photo about 1/8 -1/4 turn. I think I need to loosen the big nut to do this, but I'm not sure and I dont want to f*** up this the part that nobody loves. I'll post up what I discover. View attachment 3254762

I recall using the actuating rod to properly clock the new LSPV seat - didn't have to loosen anything.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I recall using the actuating rod to properly clock the new LSPV seat - didn't have to loosen anything.

That’s what I’m gonna try tomorrow, I got nervous with the plastic…stupid plastic. Stupid cold garage.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok, plan today was to install LSPV, Bleed the system and go. The lower plastic of the LSPV did clock, but it took more for than I would have guessed. I fumbled with the bracket mounting bolts in the 35 degrees of wind and snow that is my driveway today.

Then I built a bench bleeder for my new master cylinder.View attachment 3255705
I bought a copper line at Auto Zone with flats ends in 3/16” size…I think. I cut the tubing with a mini tubing cutter and bent the arms into the reservoir.
View attachment 3255712
I then filled up the master to the MIN line and pressed the brake pedal a few time gently with my hand. It sputtered and I added a bit more fluid. A few more pumps slowly and bleeding was complete.

I hooked up my power probe adapter and the Motive unit and it’s a great fit. Really nice tool. Pictures will be up soon, but my passenger rear bleeder valve was seized and I rounded it with my flare nut wrench. I’m pissed because I should have put one of my 10mm 6pt sockets on first. I got no love with the vise grips, or a 10 mm wrench. I’ll get back after it tomorrow after it soaks with penetrating oil. Hopefully nothing shears off. These calipers were new a few years ago too.

MINNESOTA WILL KILL MY CAR

Accidentally posted this update in Pell’s thread…because I’m sleep deprived and going too fast.

 

[FMC80]

Before you try to loosen the bleeder again , use a small hammer and tap it fast but firm straight in in the tip like you're pounding a nail. This can help break it loose. Don't hit it hard enough to deform the tip.

Did you see @BILT4ME response to your post on my thread? You can’t miss his golden nuggets (so to speak). Here you go.