Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)

[FMC80]

Shameless copy of @Feldrian. ARB dual compressor is going on a Wits end QPM.

Right on. Imitation is the biggest form of being a copy cat. I’ll do the same one day

 

[Dusten]

Right on. Imitation is the biggest form of being a copy cat. I’ll do the same one day

After my last few trips and airing down I need to figure something out.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

After my last few trips and airing down I need to figure something out.

My previous compressor was a VIAIR 400 and it worked ok, but I’m looking forward to having the ARB built in. I’m not sure where I’ll run the airline for tires yet, but most likely in the back mounted to my drawers. I’m still figuring that part out.

 

[Dusten]

My previous compressor was a VIAIR 400 and it worked ok, but I’m looking forward to having the ARB built in. I’m not sure where I’ll run the airline for tires yet, but most likely in the back mounted to my drawers. I’m still figuring that part out.

I'll probably get the arb setup because that's the locker direction I'm going

 

[FMC80]

G, remind me, do you have dual battery set up yet or is that in your future?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

G, remind me, do you have dual battery set up yet or is that in your future?

I was going to, but since I love block ice and coolers I’m goi g to stoic with one battery. It’s expensive to buy two AGM batteries if you actually don’t need to have power on all the time.

My rig is not a small RV. As far as I know it seems like one quality battery will be fine for my needs with a couple of LED camp lights run for a couple hours between charges. Maybe charging a phone or a headlamp. Those are most of my aux power needs. But I relocated the washer bottle and have a dual battery tray and even electronics (blue sea ML-ACR) and a delta VS mount to run them. I’m just not sure I need that extra weight.

 

[FMC80]

I was going to, but since I love block ice and coolers I’m goi g to stoic with one battery. It’s expensive to buy two AGM batteries if you actually don’t need to have power on all the time.

My rig is not a small RV. As far as I know it seems like one quality battery will be fine for my needs with a couple of LED camp lights run for a couple hours between charges. Maybe charging a phone or a headlamp. Those are most of my aux power needs. But I relocated the washer bottle and have a dual battery tray and even electronics (blue sea ML-ACR) and a delta VS mount to run them. I’m just not sure I need that extra weight.

Do you have a winch? I see many people running a dual setup specifically because they have a winch. Or maybe that is simply coincidence. I think I’ll need a dual battery but unsure. I have a winch but it’s not yet installed. I don’t want to have a dual battery if I don’t need it. The engine bay doesn’t need more stuff crammed in there imo.

Anyway, love the progress you’re making. Let me know if you need anything from my end. I’d be happy to help in any way I can.

 

[Dusten]

I think there are very few people who need a dual battery.

I'd be curious the cost of a small generator vs the cost and complexity of a dual battery setup.

Most small fridges are going to pull 1-4 amps or a little less than 50 watts.

Something like this would be my option.

Jackery Explorer 500W Portable Power Station

Jackery Carrying Case is a premium EVA bag designed to fit and protect the Explorer 500 Portable Power Station from damage. Stylish, practical, and durable.

www.jackery.com

As for a winch, alternator output is key. The two batteries only help if the vehicle dies.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I think there are very few people who need a dual battery.

I'd be curious the cost of a small generator vs the cost and complexity of a dual battery setup.

Most small fridges are going to pull 1-4 amps or a little less than 50 watts.

Something like this would be my option.

Jackery Explorer 500W Portable Power Station

Jackery Carrying Case is a premium EVA bag designed to fit and protect the Explorer 500 Portable Power Station from damage. Stylish, practical, and durable.

www.jackery.com

As for a winch, alternator output is key. The two batteries only help if the vehicle dies.

I would go with a portable power bank over a dual battery. I think this 93-94 flavor has the more powerful alternator…but my memory is fickle.

No winch yet but plans for a 12k winch…and sliders. Some day.

 

[FMC80]

I would go with a portable power bank over a dual battery. I think this 93-94 flavor has the more powerful alternator…but my memory is fickle.

No winch yet but plans for a 12k winch…and sliders. Some day.

I’m going to research more. I have photomans alternator/bracket upgrade, but decided against it during my engine rebuild.
I like the idea of an external power bank provider it doesn’t take up too much real estate.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I should clarify. Without running a big dedicated fridge/freezer I would choose a portable power (Jackery/ goal zero etc). If I had a big dometic freezer full of ice cream sandwiches I’d run dual batts. Nobody likes melted ice cream.

 

[Dusten]

I would go with a portable power bank over a dual battery. I think this 93-94 flavor has the more powerful alternator…but my memory is fickle.

No winch yet but plans for a 12k winch…and sliders. Some day.

My hdj81 has a we baby alternator and it runs my 9.5k just fine. I just run the rpms up.

 

[Feldrian]

I agree with @Dusten . Very few trucks actually need dual batteries. Don't get me wrong, i like the idea, but i don't need a second and certainly don't want the weight. I pack a Jackery 1000w solar generator for camp stuff and i pack a small battery charger that i can charge my start battery with off the Jackery in case i leave something on and drain my start battery.

Setup hasn't let me down so far.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Brakes, Castor and Suspension...

I took my Rig to Mt. Baker for a family ski day yesterday, the rig handled like absolute dog piss. Wandering all over the road, unstable and generally a miserable white knuckle experience. So I decided that enough is enough and its time to get my castor correction sorted ASAP. I very randomly got a text from a forum member who is interested in selling some DVS arms to me this morning, so off to the shop it went to get on a rack and have the alignment done. The little alignment shop I used is called Alignment and Brakes Plus in Bellingham, WA and I would go back to them again. Nice to work with smart people who have customer service skills AND a sense of humor. I had them adjust my Toe as it was out of spec and I noticed a big improvement in my in town handling. Further motivation to get the castor sorted as I want every BETTER handling, especially at highway speed.

the DVS arms I've been offered are the 4" variety. I cannot seem to find a spec on how much they correct castor. But I did communicate with DVS last year and they recommended the 2" or 3" arms given my castor numbers. I wonder if I do these 4" if I will be over corrected with my current system.

 

[FMC80]

Dang, my caster was -4.4, -3.9 after my lift. I also didn’t have any armor which affects the readings, but I expected yours to be far worse than that.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

My numbers from the PO back in 2018 were -1.2 -1.6. Presumably this was right after the lift.

I emailed these numbers to Delta VS last February (2022), and this was the response:
Hi Greg,

Thanks for the additional details.

I wouldn’t be the least bit surprised if there are some yellow OME caster bushings in your arms, might be worth a close look.

If not, 2” arms would probably be best, if you can see some yellow bushings on the axle side, 3” arms will be best.

Thanks,
Dave Schenker

Delta Vehicle Systems

Off-road and 4x4 performance equipment designed and manufactured in Boise, Idaho. Bumpers, lift kits, storage solutions and more premier overland equipment for your off-road vehicle.

deltavs.com

Sent from a mobile device, please excuse brevity and typos.

I did take another close look and there are black rubber bushings, but they don’t appear to be anything other than stock bushings.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I made some progress today. I was able to create my 2ga wire run from the battery to the rear quarter panel. I bought 25’ of wire I’ll bet I only needed 19’. I used some expandable plastic sleeving to protect the wire as I have it routed under the radiator support to keep it out of harm’s way. I used some nifty cable ties that have a clip to secure to a small hole. I picked them
Up at my local NAPA. Then the wire passes through the big firewall grommet and down through the sills on the passenger side all the way to the rear quarter panel.

I’ll get a shot of the battery connection when I finish with my battery and ground cable upgrade. I have some snazzy mil style terminals I’m going to use. I also did some layout work for the QPM. This is pretty close to how I’ll lay things out, but I need to finish getting the air locker plumbing ready as well as the plumbing for filling tires.

I don’t have any photos but I removed my Hella 700ff driving lights and their harness today. I have a pair of Hella Rallye 4000’s (one euro and one pencil) that I’m going to run instead. They are much nicer, but they are huge. So test fitting with the lights showed I’ll need to modify the mounts on my ARB bumper to make them fit properly.

I’m still not sure how I’ll mount my ham radio. I think the QPM is a good spot, but the runs for the mike and detachable face will be long.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Had a great conversation with Chance at Cruiser Outfitters today. I'm planning a road trip to SLC this spring for some suspension work... details to follow.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I've been traveling abroad for the last few weeks up in Scotland. I'm back and trying to wrap up the lingering projects as I fight my jet lag. I have been having some issues with my ABS firing at slow speed braking when im turning the vehicle (like pulling into my driveway).

• I jumped the diagnostic port and pulled ABS codes 31 and 37 which in short say my Right front speed sensor is failing.
• Inspected the cables and connectors, and I could not find any visual issues. Everything looks pretty clean and nice.
• I tested the resistance to the RT speed sensor and it is out of spec with very high resistance. Drat.

So I've been looking for a replacement front wheel speed sensor. As you may or may not know you can purchase them from Toyota (maybe) but they come in a pair and are around $750 -$1100 new. I'm currently searching for a replacement, but I'm also now considering the option of an ABS delete. All solutions will need to be sorted by the first week of May when I'm heading out to UT so my rig can get some attention at cruiser outfitters.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I've been traveling abroad for the last few weeks up in Scotland. I'm back and trying to wrap up the lingering projects as I fight my jet lag. I have been having some issues with my ABS firing at slow speed braking when im turning the vehicle (like pulling into my driveway).

• I jumped the diagnostic port and pulled ABS codes 31 and 37 which in short say my Right front speed sensor is failing.
• Inspected the cables and connectors, and I could not find any visual issues. Everything looks pretty clean and nice.
• I tested the resistance to the RT speed sensor and it is out of spec with very high resistance. Drat.

So I've been looking for a replacement front wheel speed sensor. As you may or may not know you can purchase them from Toyota (maybe) but they come in a pair and are around $750 -$1100 new. I'm currently searching for a replacement, but I'm also now considering the option of an ABS delete. All solutions will need to be sorted by the first week of May when I'm heading out to UT so my rig can get some attention at cruiser outfitters.

More research indicates best current price for a set of sensors is $430-$500 depending on vendor.