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I just found your build thread. I will be hitting you up for a lot more technical information. I'm in the middle of my FJ43 swap. I will have about the same wheel base as you as well.
#1: When you moved your axle forward did that still require you to cut your oil pan? I won't have it mocked up for a few months so I'm wondering. Only moving my axle forward about 2 inches. I will have a shackle reversal and 4" lift.
I might have gotten by without cutting it but 2" forward and 4" lift won't get you far enough away from it to be comfortable. I may have lost 1/2 a quart of oil capacity.
#2: Where did you run your exhaust and what did you use. I'm looking for something that is as quiet as possible.
I routed 2 1/4 ID pipe under the oil pan behind the sump to the driver's side then crossed back over to the passenger side over the rear axle and exited at a 45* angle behind the rear tire. I am running a small flowthrough muffler although the exhaust is fairly quiet even when straight piped.
#3: How is that oil filter working out for you. It looks pretty slick. I have a remote oil filter set up but I know there are some stock sensors and check valve if I remember correctly.
I really like it. The oil coller runs off of it along with the turbo feed and oil pressure sensor so it required less fabricating compared to aftermarket remote oil filter. Plus the way it is mounted make oil changes a breeze, I can change the oil and filter without spilling a drop of oil or even getting my hands dirty. I can't say that about my Duramax, I make a huge mess everytime I change the oil in that thing.
#4: Did you have close ups of how you connected your throttle linkage?
I'll take some pics this evening. It was fairly easy, only had to build a small bracket coming off of the engine to attach a relay rod to.
#4: Done anything for RPM yet?
I have found that 27* BTDC gives me great cruising power on the highway but is not very good for low end power. I am currently running at 18* BTDC and that gives me much better low end throttle response and power but has its disadvantages on the highway. Exhaust and engine temps are higher at cruising speeds.
#5: Adapting some of the temps sensors?
There are 3 Mercedes sensors, 2 were used for climate control system in the car and 1 for the gauge. The glowplug relay has an ambient temp sensor built into it so you can use any of the 3 locations for your gauge. I used the one behind the injection pump towards the front of the engine, I removed the Mercedes sensor and tapped the hole out to 3/8" NPT.
I have hundreds more.
I am not quite sure about the glow plug harness yet and how we will wire that up. I believe I have all of the stock equipment from the donor car but it is just in a box I got from the PO so I haven't had time to go look at it all.
It is simple enough, battery hookup and a signal wire from the ignition. I used the wire that went to my HEI
Do you have a TACH installed yet?
No, that isn't on my priority list. I do run a temporary boost and electronic pyrometer. I'm looking for a permanent setup for those and a decent way to mount them.
I watched the videos and it sounds great up on the highway. Did you just use adapters in the mercedes block to insert Toyota 2F Coolant temp senders and oil pressure senders?
I adapted the Mercedes fittings to pipe thread and then used the stock Toyota senders
Would love to see a close up of some of your motor mounts if you ever get a chance. I'll be moving my whole engine about 4" forward (using an electric fan) IOT install a 5 speed transmission. I plan on using Mercedes isolators because I have them.
I started out using the Mercedes mounts, they are incredibly easy to adapt but they are very soft and allowed too much engine movement for offroad use. I'm using GM motor mounts now. They transfer more vibration to the frame though![]()
How about the stock oil returns to the upper portion of the pan on the passengers side. If I remember correctly one came from Turbo and the other the air intake that collected the oil vapor.
Turbo still drains to the pan and the crankcase vent is routed to the air cleaner assembly on the drivers side
Have you made any pump or ALDA adjustments yet? Besides advancing the timing?
I have adjusted the ALDA all the way out and then back in 1/2 turn. I haven't changed anything else yet
How have you been doing on MPG lately? I've got a goal of 27 MPG at 55 and am hoping it is reasonable.
I can't drive 55 and I really can't get 27 MPG either. I average about 1727 is going to be asking alot out of any motor that is pushing a brick through the air
I got 16.2 MPG in my LX going to the Silbaughs' and back for the last meeting. That is about what I got with my HJ47, 2H, turbo and 5 speed (alhthough I got about 18 with my Vortec).
Even the blokes I know in Australia with turbo/intercooled 3Bs struggle to get much more than 20-25 MPH - bearing in mind that the speed limit there is a very strict 62 MPH, it is sea level and it is generally as flat as bad dream in Kansas.
In my experience, 27 MPG is a dream in a Cruiser, unless you run stock tires, no lift, no roof rack, bull bar or winch and no air con. However, I hope you do it!
Josh
I started out using the Mercedes mounts, they are incredibly easy to adapt but they are very soft and allowed too much engine movement for offroad use. I'm using GM motor mounts now. They transfer more vibration to the frame though
Just found this thread and have this same engine in a '79 FJ55, I'm getting a lot of engine movement and was curious on your switch to the GM mounts? I'm running the stock hollow rubber mounts in re-enforced "L" brackets welded to the inside of my frame. Any info or pics on your setup?
Thanks!
Tucker
sweet! when did you get out there?