Left rear window won't close all the way (1 Viewer)

[ozarkmud]

Hi everyone,

Left rear window was fine for a while, but was pushed down and now can't go back up. It has a lot of slop, where I can pick up the window and pull it up, but it droops down. Motor doesn't do much of anything.

There seem to be a few things that commonly go out on these. I've read about some rubber guides that harden up over time.

I'd like to first apply a temporary fix and likely later fix the actual issue. Rear window movement isn't a huge deal for us, but rear windows staying up definitely is.

I first tried taping the window, but it didn't last long at all. I've read about 3M Command Hooks and window shims being used.

What would be a good temporary fix to safely keep it propped up? Is there some preventative maintenance I should perform? Admittedly, I think all or most of the motors are very weak. Seems like new OEM is expensive and there's a number of cheaper alternatives. From Corolla window motors to Dorman, to Aisan.

Would appreciate any advice you can offer.

Thank you!

 

[Kernal]

In a pinch a good sticky tape can hold the glass up. I used clear vinyl tape running about a foot down both sides (ie one continuous piece of tape one foot up , over the top of the door/window frame, and one foot down), and repeated that across most of the width of the window. Then ran more tape side-to-side across those sections of tape (to include more bare glass sections). It lasted a 4000 mile round trip and then some, but I kept the roll of clear tape in the vehicle for whenever it needed more reinforcement. Pain in the arse cleaning off all the adhesive afterwards however.

However if you have the time it's better to just pull the panel off and see what the problem is, likely the door glass has pulled out of the regulator and/or the regulator is messed up along with the motor.

IME Dorman motors are good for ~10 years and counting.

 

[greentruck]

The regulator has failed in some way. I also recommend Dorman as an affordable and effective alternative to OEM. Fixed my driver's window for many years, don't recall exactly when I installed it but was still working reliably when I trashed that truck in more fundamental ways recently.
The install was quick and easy, probably less time than you've already put in in trying to prop that old one up.

 

[wagonteeth]

Taking the door panel off and putting the window back in the track takes about 15 minutes. I fixed mine with some fipg to keep the rubber sleeve thingy glued to the glass. It stays in the lift well. Adding the fipg took another 10 minutes to apply and get the rubber back in the channel. So maybe 30 minutes and it's fixed for good, or at least years.

 

[jonheld]

FYI, the rubber filler channel for all 4 window regulators are available new. After 30 years or so, they'll be done.
69971-60020 for the front windows. About $12.
69971-90D00 for the rear windows. about $9.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Sounds like the window channel has come off the regulator roller. Easy fix. Both my rears have done that to me.

 

[AgentOrange]

Taking the door panel off and putting the window back in the track takes about 15 minutes. I fixed mine with some fipg to keep the rubber sleeve thingy glued to the glass. It stays in the lift well. Adding the fipg took another 10 minutes to apply and get the rubber back in the channel. So maybe 30 minutes and it's fixed for good, or at least years.

This is the fix. Had it happen to mine a couple weekends ago. Was wheeling with the rear windows halfway down. Popped the rubber keeper thing out of the track and window shifted out of the track.

 

[Joelopy]

Suction cup for glass/dents squeezed into the lower corner worked as a “short-term / keep the rain out” $5 fix.
It lasted much longer than I expected with no tape residue. Not good for off road bumps or curious back seat passengers.

 

[ozarkmud]

I finally got around to starting on this! Doesn't seem like a hard job, as you all have said.

Old regulator is out and the new one is ready to go in. Just ran into one "issue" here...

FYI, the rubber filler channel for all 4 window regulators are available new. After 30 years or so, they'll be done.
69971-60020 for the front windows. About $12.
69971-90D00 for the rear windows. about $9.

I appreciate the info on this. I ordered them, but they don't match up exactly. The channels seem fine, but 69971-90D00 is a couple inches larger. Not sure if that's a problem, if I should trim it, or if there's a couple variations in the track holder. It seems like a wider track holder might be an improvement.

This is a '93, and for the left rear window.

This one should be for the front. Way too big, but not the right application.

69971-90D00 for the rear window, compared to the window holder I've got.

Thickness/shapes of all three (new front, new rear, and original) look to be the same.

Length comparison of 69971-90D00 and the original.




Finally, a bonus comparison of the Dorman and OEM regulator. Interestingly, there's a beefy spring on OEM, but not on Dorman. Does anyone have any opinions on that?

Anyway, should I take a 69971-90D00 and trim it to size? Or should I let it overhang? Is it possible my window holder is not OEM, or that they changed throughout the years?

Thank you!

 

[jonheld]

It's a piece of rubber. Cut it to size.
Its job is to hold the window to the regulator track.
Soapy water makes the installation easier.

 

[ozarkmud]

It's a piece of rubber. Cut it to size.
Its job is to hold the window to the regulator track.
Soapy water makes the installation easier.

Thank you!

So with the soapy water, what's your technique?

Do you put the rubber on the window, then slide the holder piece over it from left to right? Or do you put it on from bottom to top?

I guess the rubber can also go in the holder piece, then be pushed on from the bottom. I tried some variation of all of these, and none were easy.

The rubber goes into the holder piece easily. The rubber goes onto the window easily. But not both at the same time.

 

[ozarkmud]

I looked at the FSM and they recommend removing the glass, which I was hoping not to do. I tried several methods to try and set it with the glass in place, but none worked. I'll try pulling the glass tomorrow unless someone chimes in with a working technique that's easier.

I assume a rubber mallet is okay instead of a plastic one?

 

[jonheld]

I looked at the FSM and they recommend removing the glass, which I was hoping not to do. I tried several methods to try and set it with the glass in place, but none worked. I'll try pulling the glass tomorrow unless someone chimes in with a working technique that's easier.

I assume a rubber mallet is okay instead of a plastic one?

FWIW, I have never removed the glass from any window when replacing the window runs or filler strips.
It's supposed to be a tight fit as its job is to hold the window to the regulator run.
It helps to start with a good cleaning of all parts concerned. Filler strip on the glass first, regulator run on the filler strip. Warm water with some dish detergent will help the process.
The new filler strips should be pliable and relatively soft in order to have the run push on. If soapy water doesn't work, try another lube.

 

[Brindleboxer]

I have done this in the vehicle but the few extra minutes to pull the window id worth it to me and now I just pull the glass. As Jon said, cleaning all parts is essential. I used a small rubber mallet to seat the guide and the frame on the window. As for your replacement being a bit longer IIRC the run doesn't go full length so as long as it doesn't protrude past the frame you should be good, if not cut to size.

Added bonus to removing the window - You can get in there and clean the full window runs really well.

 

[Hornd]

Got Slow Windows? Here's the Fix.

You will need two modules for 4 window

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ozarkmud]

Thank you all for the tips!

I ended up not being able to do it with the window installed, so I pulled the window. You don't have to pull the fixed window next to the moving window. It wasn't too hard that way. I also had first used a water/soap mix with Dr. Bronner's soap, which is more of a traditional liquid soap (fat plus potassium hydroxide.) I used a more typical dish soap and it seemed to make things much slicker.

I put the rubber on, then the steel holder piece. It seemed easiest to me that way. I do think the rubber "shrinks" a little bit as you install it, so a little overhang might not be a problem. I don't know what it would catch on, either.

You don't have to remove the outside trim piece on the bottom of the window sill, but mine popped off in the process, and the white plastic tabs broke one after another! One was partly usable, and another was intact. I would highly recommend getting those before attempting to remove the window. I can't find the part number for it. Could someone help me with that? I also wonder if it's a piece that could be 3D printed, but it's sure a thin part. Edit: Are these the clips? Sounds like they only come with the weatherstrip! FZJ80 door weatherstripping question - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fzj80-door-weatherstripping-question.925060/

My window switch is bad though, and it seems like it's not easy to take them apart. I'll have to order a new one. The driver's switch for the rear left window is also bad. The one at the door works for up only, but the driver's one doesn't work for up or down, yet works on all the other windows.

Also, I had a few of the plastic tabs on the door trim pull away from the particle board. So the plastic is intact, but it pulled out of the door trim piece. Is there a good fix for that? Maybe epoxy? I need to be more careful and use a door puller tool every time.

 

[Kernal]

Sounds like the OP got it done, for future searches:

Falling window

I have a window on my land cruiser and I will not stay up. I recently tried to fix it and the rubber that it sits in is rotted out. If you have a temporary or permanent fix I would love to hear about it.

forum.ih8mud.com