Leaf spring and tire question

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Joined
Dec 20, 2017
Threads
34
Messages
283
Location
Columbia South Carolina and Cedar Mountain NC
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Took the 40 to my tire and repair shop for alignment check. Alignment was toe in. Also they said the leaf springs were rusting badly and needed replacing or they might break and separate. I attached pics. Any opinions?

They would then align. Which spring lift kit is recommended? Currently have old man emu 2.5 lift that is about 10 years old.

Also, tires were only 23 lb however they appeared crowned and looked over inflated giving harder ride and they are over 5 years old so they recommend replacing. They suggested the BFG 2358516tires if I could get the 16 in wheels. Said it would be same tread as my A/T and no one would notice the BFG 33 on the spare with 15 in wheel to keep that. I take a lot of tire business there and they have always treated me right

How much are those repro 16 in wheels that were discussed on forum and are they painted already?
Thanks so much for indulging my questions.
 
Took the 40 to my tire and repair shop for alignment check. Alignment was toe in. Also they said the leaf springs were rusting badly and needed replacing or they might break and separate. I attached pics. Any opinions?

They would then align. Which spring lift kit is recommended? Currently have old man emu 2.5 lift that is about 10 years old.

Also, tires were only 23 lb however they appeared crowned and looked over inflated giving harder ride and they are over 5 years old so they recommend replacing. They suggested the BFG 2358516tires if I could get the 16 in wheels. Said it would be same tread as my A/T and no one would notice the BFG 33 on the spare with 15 in wheel to keep that. I take a lot of tire business there and they have always treated me right

Find a new shop. the first obvious thing is going to 16" wheel. That's ridiculous. Size of wheel makes no difference.

The springs do look like the paint is blistering, crappy paint job. I don't believe in painting springs. You might be served to remove
them, grind the paint off and clean them up and check that the slip pads are in place and they have a bit of grease. When you take them apart replace the center pin if it's in bad shape. Use lots of Moovit or lubricant before you try to undo the nut.

My opinion ( worth nothing ) is to check your spring bushings. That might be the source of your spring and axle misalignment. After
10 years they will have broken down. They'll be garbage if they weren't replaced 10 years ago when the springs were done.
I don't know how hard you've off roaded this truck. If you haven't done a bunch of poser shots on boulders trying to show flex or
had enormous loads in the back the springs will be worn, but should have some life left in them.

Go back to the basics and go over the whole system, how are the tie rods, drag link ends etc? When was the knuckle bearings last replaced?
Bad toe, is in these things not the springs unless the bushings are really bad.

This is my input, hope it helps a bit.
 
Just got this vehicle last week. PO only put a few hundred miles on it over the 1 1/2 years he owned it.
Owner before him did nuts and bolts restore by Cruisers in NH in 2008 with rebuilt 2F engine, new lift, new tub,Line-X undercoating and paint. I've seen the vids. I took it in to get their opinion on the mild steering wheel play and check alignment since I was getting some very mild vibration of steering wheel at high speeds and to see if tires needed balancing. Since getting PSI to 30 it seems to ride better. For what its worth they said rear tires were also 1/2 in out of alignment.
 
Cruiserpilot: Thanks. Tie rods and drag links are okay. Perhaps knuckle bearings were replaced during restore about 13,000 mi ago, don't know for sure. I asked about 16 in wheels after reading thread from other Mudder that went to 235-85-16 for better ride and easier manual steering. Not planning on any hard core off road, maybe trails and the like.
 
rear is 1/2" out. How does it ride? Have someone drive behind you and see if it 'dogtracks'. Might indicate
a spring center bolt sheared or lose u bolts ( unlikely ). I am always skeptical of rebuilds that get sold soon
after. Factory steering? What year? Check everything that needs grease or is a joint.
 
I'd replace those springs too. They look severely rusted in the pictures. Get new versions of the same thing with new bushings. Should solve a lot of problems. Or, you could pull them off sand blast and re-evaluate, but new springs are less work and definitive.

By tire size, they mean width. Your rims are too narrow for those tires. But I'd just drive as is. I have those exact tires on FJ60 rims which are only 6 inches wide. They crown a bit and likely will wear a bit faster but who cares. BFGs last a long time and when it's time to replace, you can get new rims or have those widened. I think there is an early 70 series 16 inch steel wheel that would be a great fit if you want to change stuff out, but stay with Toyota OEM. But you have to call a specialty Toyota parts person like Beno to see if you can get a set.

Regarding the rear misalignment-meaning one is forward of the other or are they toed in some way? If toed in or out the axle is bent. If one is forward of the other, I agree, look for a sheared spring pin. Anyway, take some measurements yourself. These trucks are not precisely aligned in any case and what you're seeing may be normal.
 
If you decide to replace them, PLEASE let me know, I will come down and buy those old ones from you, tires, springs and all. Shoot, for the right deal I will install your new tires, springs too! I have a shop and can get all the new parts you need.

I do not see anything that I would worry about on those springs. I would want to take them apart, clean, repaint and reinstall. Tires being 5 years old or so may run into a problem over time.

I am seriour about my offer!

Rob
 
Looking at your tyres IMHO they do seem overinflated at 23lbs but don't show the kind of wear I'd expect. The rims maybe too narrow. Check with manufacturer re. recommended rim size for the tyre. Maybe they are at the limit. 16s may give you more choices. I have OME on both my cruisers. One set has been on for8+years and paint is ok, but they are coils so p tough to compare eh. Your leafs look like they were repainted badly but that doesn't mean they are toast. New springs aren't cheap,so I'd get a second opinion. Wheels can be had for a reasonable price 15 or 16inch. Good luck

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Keep the springs, they look like they may be OME 2.5" lift springs judging by the shocks and the 33x10.5-15 tires. You are running a 10.5" wide tire on a 5.5" wide rim. Many do it because skinnier 33" tires are nearly impossible to find, but people still want the OEM wheels and hubcap look. This will cause the tire to bubble out in the center of the tread. More air pressure will only exaggerate this. As for your alignment, who knows, something has to be broken, bent or wore out. Whatever the case, you certainly can work with what you have.
 
I think the springs are fine, that is very little rust structurally, just cosmetic. As for paint on a spring, it is a very good thing. All springs are painted or powder coated these days to prevent hydrogen embrittlement from exposure to air over time. The little that is missing on your springs is no big deal, but if you sand blast them, it would be best to paint them again.

I honestly would not trust a shop that gave you the advice they did. Somebody there needs a lift and a set of tires for their rig.
 
Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. Great forum. Nice to have advice being a novice at this.
I think what I’ll do first is wirebrush off the blistered paint on the springs and inspect. Then if good consider coating with something a friend suggested. PQR 15 that supposedly inhibits rust. Anyone use it?

The 5.5 in stock wheels makes sense as cause of bowing and as these tires have 95% tread and no cracking and good rubber will probably keep for awhile unless I go the route of eMac and use 235 85 16 which would require getting new repro stock 16 in wheels which are not cheap.

Matzell, if I do that I’ll be in touch. Thanks for the offer of coming down from Richmond. BTW, I lived in the Fan while going to school there.
 
I'll try to remember to attach a photo of my rear springs, which will be replaced soon. They're quite rusty. Yours look OK to me.
Possible exception is first image, the bottom leaf looks like it has a chunk missing from it. Probably just an optical illusion.
 
POR 15 should work fine. It doesn't really convert rust, just makes an O2 barrier to slow it a bit. Check out brands like Ospho or Extend to use as a primer/rust converter then POR 15. Also look at Chassis Saver paint as a POR15 alternative (price). If you can find it, consider satin black as opposed to gloss black. Gloss shows all sin!

Good luck.

#1 piece of advice for all new people is to double check on MUD (like you did) before letting someone tell you their Cruiser Gospel. More honest people here than just about anywhere.
 
Heard back from shop. They said alighment on rear was that right rear wheel was 1/2 inch in front of left rear wheel suggesting an issue with spring. Not axle. The front was toe in 1/2-3/4 in on one side and other side outside limits. Didn’t want to adjust in case it might throw off ride even worse because of the rear measurement. Personally I don’t think ride is that bad for a truck with big tires. Tracks straight and stops straight with disc front.
More pics after I scraped some areas of peeling paint.
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That one tire does seem to have a bit of crown to me but without seeing it in person I couldn't tell u for sure. Tires do break belts internally from time to time and can make them really bulge but usual can feel it on the road as a bad wobble. The standard life for tire rubber before t starts breaking down is 5 years. Although this varies in actuality depending on how tires have been stored. That's why they recommend new tires. As far as your rear axle, its not uncommon for a leaf spring rear axle to not be totally straight. If u wanted u could loosen the u bolts and try to get some movement in the axle and then tighten them down. But if it drives straight, looks good, and have no worn bushings or broken or sagging leafs I would leave it alone.
 
Really too bad the 33 x 9.5 is no longer available. They fit well on 6 inch rims.

The 5.5 wheels are just too narrow for the 10.5 inch tires. But it will work well enough to keep driving and plot your next move.

At least set toe in properly up front. That's all you can do anyway and won't change the ride.
 

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