LANDCRUISER 80 SERIES 1FZ FE VALVE SEAL REPLACEMENT IN THE TRUCK INCLUDES # 6 CYLINDER! (2 Viewers)

[Doso]

Hi guys,

I changed the valve seals in my 80 series 1FZ FE in the truck including cylinder 6 without pulling the engine or head.

We have made a video on youtube showing the process of changing the seals.



I hope this helps

If you guys do not mind please give me a thumps up on youtube and if you subscribe that would be great

 

[Doso]

Moreover there is a playlist for the land cruiser and videos in the future.

 

[Kernal]

Great video, thanks.
A list detailing the procedure might help others understand the process.

 

[mdawg]

Nice video - thank you for sharing. That heater valve above #6 is looking pretty crusty, so you may want to change that soon.

 

[Doso]

Thank you mdawg

I will look into changing it or deleting it since we do not use the heater much around here.

 

[Doso]

Thank you Kernal

1- The battery was disconnected
2- I took out the air box
3- I removed the throttle body and heater valve
4- Removed the plug wires and the valve cover
5- removed the cam shafts and the valve shims

A very helpful video was

DO NOT TAKE OUT THE HEAD BOLTS

6- Use a compression tester as shown in the video to hold the valve in place.

a- Screw the tester instead of the spark plug
b- Use about 40 psi
c- Then and only then take out the valve keepers.

7- Replace the valve seals

For installation a helpful video was

8- Reinstall all components in the revers order

 

[Doso]

hope this helps

 

[arizonae]

What is the valve spring compression tool part number?

 

[Doso]

I got it from ebay, there is no item number in the listing but here is the link

HD X-Long Overhead Valve Spring Remover Compressor Stem Engine Seal Keeper Tool | eBay

OVERHEAD VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR. Allows valve springs and valve stem oil seals to be replaced with the cylinger head.

www.ebay.com

 

[arizonae]

Thanks for the video, this was very helpful to watch.

 

[arizonae]

 

[Doso]

Thanks for the video, this was very helpful to watch.

You are welcome , I hope your seals job goes smoothly .

 

[thunderhog]

Hey there, I am interested in your video but I cant seem to access it. Is the vid still posted?

 

[Doso]

Hey there, I am interested in your video but I cant seem to access it. Is the vid still posted?

Hi,
Sorry it took me so long, but I was trying to reupload the video.

here is the link

 

[Kernal]

@Doso : video doesn't work on this web site (but does on you tubbe).

 

[Malleus]

 

[PeterTheBeater]

Did this job around 6 months ago, haven’t burned a drop of oil since *knock knock*. Used to go thru a quart every 500 miles.

 

[bj70bc]

good stuff

 

[Kernal]

Peter: Got any tips you can share about this job, tools, air source, etc, etc?

 

[PeterTheBeater]

Peter: Got any tips you can share about this job, tools, air source, etc, etc?

Nothing special really.

Use the tool described in the video, I’ve got mine off Amazon.
I would have a compressor with large tank, i have a medium sized one from harbor freight. There was quite a lot of leak down during it.
My crank didn’t try spinning over or anything like that, but I did have a socket on the fly wheel, at the inspection cover just in case.

Don’t force on the seals, the seal will not “go all the way down”, there’s going to be a gap between the lip and the block. Taking off old seals was a PITA, I’ve used high quality small locking pliers, with enough twisting and pulling they would come off.

When pushing the spring down, if you hear air escaping, it means the spring cup isn’t free from the valve, gently tap all your valves with hammer before hand.

Definitely take the hood off and replace all vacuum tubing and do other “while in there jobs”.

Overall it was a huge pain in the ass, but worth not burning any oil anymore. I’ve also “upgraded” my injectors to 12 hole injectors, I’d advise against that as it “feels” like my fuel economy went down.