LANDCRUISER 80 SERIES 1FZ FE VALVE SEAL REPLACEMENT IN THE TRUCK INCLUDES # 6 CYLINDER!

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Thanks for all the details.

FWIW I recall one person some years ago compared 12 hole injectors to 4 hole Denso's on a Dyno'd 1FZFE (might have been a 105 Series) and found no increased power from the 12 hole over the 4 hole. IIRC that video was on you tubbe.
 
Kernal said:
Thanks for all the details.

FWIW I recall one person some years ago compared 12 hole injectors to 4 hole Denso's on a Dyno'd 1FZFE (might have been a 105 Series) and found no increased power from the 12 hole over the 4 hole. IIRC that video was on you tubbe.
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Yeah I just did it because I didn’t want downtime of getting injectors cleaned.
 
Depending upon position, I went between the valve spring compressor tool + parts of this head service kit:
headvalveservicekit.png


headvalvesetup.png

Thanks to this forum, got 'er done

Though after the fact for me, realized @lelandEOD posted this Lisle keeper tool which could make the reassembly task easier:
1704085442658.png

New Cruiser: Valve Guide Seal Quick Swap DIY - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-cruiser-valve-guide-seal-quick-swap-diy.1244760/
 
turbodizzle said:
To do this job do you need to set each piston to TDC?
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Yes, TDC minimizes risk of crank rotation and valve dropping.

If paranoid like me, a pencil-sized dowel cut longer than full stroke inserted through the spark plug hole served as a visual aid to flag TDC + remind myself next cylinder to do. Dowel blurred in the background 2nd pic of post #23
 
I'm thinking on doing this and noticed you used the blue viton seals and not the OEM style black ones. did you use the QUALCAST 3896755? how are they holding up or does anyone have any advice picking what seal to use? I know "oem is best" but they want 16 bucks a piece for these thing by me so looking for a suitable replacement. Thanks!
 
Make sure to buy 12 intake and 12 exhaust they are different.
 
natenut said:
I'm thinking on doing this and noticed you used the blue viton seals and not the OEM style black ones. did you use the QUALCAST 3896755? how are they holding up or does anyone have any advice picking what seal to use? I know "oem is best" but they want 16 bucks a piece for these thing by me so looking for a suitable replacement. Thanks!
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Posted OEM numbers below don’t buy aftermarket on this.
 
natenut said:
thanks for the links with better prices! so https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=90913-02096 intake, https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=90913-02105 exhaust.
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@natenut not sure if asking me, would share I bought genuine, but then an 80 owner relayed a few other locals had better luck w/viton and so I went that way.

@Fj80oregon has ton of firsthand experience and may have better knowledge on OEM vs aftermarket. Perhaps I regretfully may dive back in someday.

If helps, this was the US-based seller for my seals:
Screenshot_20240714-114216-278.png
 
^Agree on Toyota quality. Viton's higher temp range was alluring, wish more info available on head stem seals, found an old article w/some historical background: Valve Stem Seals - https://www.enginebuildermag.com/1998/07/valve-stem-seals-materials-and-designs/

Once seals of choice ready to go on, FWIW sharing a drinking straw method to oil slide them over the tip + keeper groove just in case of hard edges:
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credit: New updated valve stem seals project - https://www.rollsroyceforums.com/threads/new-updated-valve-stem-seals-project.23377/
 
I'm setting up to do this on my 1FZ-F soon. I'm not too bright so bare with me.

Tonkaboy said:
Yes, TDC minimizes risk of crank rotation and valve dropping.

If paranoid like me, a pencil-sized dowel cut longer than full stroke inserted through the spark plug hole served as a visual aid to flag TDC + remind myself next cylinder to do. Dowel blurred in the background 2nd pic of post #23
Click to expand...

How are you rotating the engine with the chain/chain sprocket just hanging there with zip ties and the cams removed? When you turn the crank it's going to get all wonky right?


This tool handles the valve keeper removal and install on the 1FZ right? It seems easier to use than the big clamp tool in the video.
1728948205757.webp



If anyone has any specific compression tester they like for this, can you link it? I've technically got all the fittings but there is a non-removable check valve on mine that will prevent air from flowing as needed here, so I need a new kit I think.
 
You don't rotate the engine.
pawnthatdude said:
I'm setting up to do this on my 1FZ-F soon. I'm not too bright so bare with me.



How are you rotating the engine with the chain/chain sprocket just hanging there with zip ties and the cams removed? When you turn the crank it's going to get all wonky right?


This tool handles the valve keeper removal and install on the 1FZ right? It seems easier to use than the big clamp tool in the video.
View attachment 3749952


If anyone has any specific compression tester they like for this, can you link it? I've technically got all the fittings but there is a non-removable check valve on mine that will prevent air from flowing as needed here, so I need a new kit I think.
Click to expand...
Just did this a few months ago. Just set cylinder 1 to tdc. You do no need to rotate the crank at all. The air pressure will keep what ever valve you are working on from falling. That valve tool worked out great. Cylinder 6 was a pain though.
tempImagevT2knG.webp
 
turbodizzle said:
You don't rotate the engine.

Just did this a few months ago. Just set cylinder 1 to tdc. You do no need to rotate the crank at all. The air pressure will keep what ever valve you are working on from falling. That valve tool worked out great. Cylinder 6 was a pain though.View attachment 3750481
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Thanks that's what I am planning but people seem to be talking about rotating the engine to put each cylinder at TDC as they go to minimize the consequence of a valve dropping.
 
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