ARCHIVE LabRak - MetricTLc 80 Series Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[AATLAS1X]

Shane the rig is coming together nicely, and quickly.

I was gonna do this in my 4Runner but wasn't sure if the blank was big enough for the switch. Did you do anything special to the blank, or just mark and drill?

Thank you!

Our kits come with a 3-way round switch that snaps into a pre drilled hole. They also have tab to secure the switch from rotating in the hole.

I marked the knockout with a razor blade and then proceeded to drill the hole with a stepped drill bit. This is key as it won't grab the plastic and tear or break it. They cut like a hot knife.

For the tab on the switch I simply marked the location and used a fine tooth blade from my saws all and then snapped into place.

I choose to run these switches as its the kit we sell. If you run factory switches, you'll need to source those and build a harvests adapter with a diode to have them work properly.

Here's the thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/387307-seat-heater-switches.html

 

[AATLAS1X]

The AC cooling lines connect to the heat exchanger through the firewall. I don't think you can get that lower part off without disconnecting them. Unless you open up the AC system I think you're as far as you can go. There are products you can use to clean the fins with the box closed:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/92253-cleaning-ac-system-evaporator.html

I think getting the leaves out is the main thing so they aren't rotting in your vents.

On it!

Thanks.

 

[Finnyfam60]

AA- Thank you for the info!! I need to do this asap to my rig!! It came with low miles, lockers, and lots of other people's boogers and grime inside!! I'm thinking the detail guy I hired didn't even scratch the surface compared to you!! (No pun intended) I also need to do the outside, jams and engine bay as you instructed! Thank you!!

 

[DARKNESS]

On it! Thanks.

You realize you'll need the AC system recharged if you do that?

 

[2fpower]

Thread is 6 pages long in what two weeks! Well, might as well join in.

When I need to vacuum in tight spots, I get a few feet of some heavy wall rubber radiator hose that is laying around and duct tape it to the vacuum line. Now I have a 1" od hose that will not marr and scratch and usually gets anywhere I need. Just get something heavy enough walled to not shut under vacuum.

 

[AATLAS1X]

Thread is 6 pages long in what two weeks! Well, might as well join in.

When I need to vacuum in tight spots, I get a few feet of some heavy wall rubber radiator hose that is laying around and duct tape it to the vacuum line. Now I have a 1" od hose that will not marr and scratch and usually gets anywhere I need. Just get something heavy enough walled to not shut under vacuum.

That's a great tip! I have a extension that necks down to a small plastic angled tip that works great.

 

[AATLAS1X]

Back to sanding.


The gray 3M sheets you buy at the parts store, they're junk. They clog up wet or dry and you'll spend more time cleaning.

These round 3M 260L resin bond are no joke. They do not clog up and attack the clear coat consistently while sanding. I like using these by hand, I just fold a rag and use equal pressure and you won't get finger lines. For large flat areas ill use a Dura block. I've done hundreds of cars and none get easier. I'm just starting at 9pm and will be sanding for a few more hours and then polishing.

I tape off all edges with 1/4" green tape and back tape with 3/4" blue. This protects areas from the paper and the buffer.

Ill use a black foam waffle pad and then a white foam pad. For those hard to get spots I use my favorite tool a 3" polisher.

 

[BayouFJ80]

Thank you for posting this Shane. Once the headline comes out, what is the best way to clean and dry it?
I want to take mine down to install Dynamat throughout the roof section to hush things up some more and liner could use a cleaning.

Also, I doubt wet sanding will fix my hood and top rash (see pic) correct?

 

[AATLAS1X]

Thank you for posting this Shane. Once the headline comes out, what is the best way to clean and dry it?
I want to take mine down to install Dynamat throughout the roof section to hush things up some more and liner could use a cleaning.

Also, I doubt wet sanding will fix my hood and top rash (see pic) correct?

I assume you're speaking of the headliner, use non scented baby wipes if its fabric. Or do what Treeroot did and re cover it in faux suede

 

[Twinair]

Thank you for posting this Shane. Once the headline comes out, what is the best way to clean and dry it? I want to take mine down to install Dynamat throughout the roof section to hush things up some more and liner could use a cleaning. Also, I doubt wet sanding will fix my hood and top rash (see pic) correct?

If it's the molded headliner I removed mine and shampooed it three times and vacuumed it dry. It was discussing to say the least. It may have been temporary dwelling for Oscar the grouch while his trash can was being renovated.

 

[AATLAS1X]

I have to say that she looks very good.


The perks to having an big deflector and running boards.

 

[AATLAS1X]

If it's the molded headliner I removed mine and shampooed it three times and vacuumed it dry. It was discussing to say the least. It may have been temporary dwelling for Oscar the grouch while his trash can was being renovated.

Was this before? I have to say I haven't seen one that dirty.

 

[Copenhagen1]

Just found this thread. You have mad detailing skills. I love following your detail threads.

Since you own a cloth 80 now, any chance you could direct your attention to detail into reproducing cloth covers for 80 series? I would love to own a new set for my 92 but will never do leather because I prefer cloth. I bet there is a market for them.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[jp_waltz]

Can you adopt me so we can do a father/son project together. It just so happens that I have a 97 we can work on! YOu do remarkable work, this thread is loaded with things I should be doing to my rig.

 

[Finnyfam60]

sub mount

I think you mentioned the possibility of a solution for a 10" sub mount in the stock location. I don't think whole hog ever delivered on one, so I would be very interested in one, especially if it was priced more reasonably than the whole hog 8" mount...

 

[jynx]

Just found this thread. You have mad detailing skills. I love following your detail threads.

Since you own a cloth 80 now, any chance you could direct your attention to detail into reproducing cloth covers for 80 series? I would love to own a new set for my 92 but will never do leather because I prefer cloth. I bet there is a market for them.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Not that you need to take on any more new projects, but....

I will second this ^^^

I can send you the covers from my 91 third row for you to play with colors on, and would sign up for a set Mine are grey and in need of some love.

 

[thatcabledude]

Shane, here what I need you to do.... cut up your 3rd row seats and make us some cloth center console covers. Hahahaha! J/K sorta.

I know you have the dished plastic lid, but mine is swapped for a leather lid (which is showing age) and matching cloth would be sweet.

-Chris

 

[AATLAS1X]

I think you mentioned the possibility of a solution for a 10" sub mount in the stock location. I don't think whole hog ever delivered on one, so I would be very interested in one, especially if it was priced more reasonably than the whole hog 8" mount...

I'll need every year or versions of the old bracket, so if there is variances I can offer one that fits all 80's

The 80's need a 10" sub in a baaaaaad way. I picked up a mono amp and should be able to fit both on the same bracket. I'm not a fan of Aluminium so it will be stainless as Aluminium tends to fracture at forming points.

Please PM me if you have one I can have.

 

[1973Guppie]

on the headliner, I used some foam type upholstery cleaner on a rag and it worked really nice to clean the whole thing up, just had to be careful not to apply too much pressure as to remove the fabric from the cardboard, I need to redo a few spots as the little one and the dogs have made it nasty over the years.....

 

[AATLAS1X]

To those that have installed done lights to the rear upper gate panel, I applaud you.

Trying to find power is a PITA.


I bought a set of done lights from a member a long time ago for my 100, however the 100 plastic is curved and would not fit correctly. They work great on this panel.

Ran the wire through the loom grommet at the top of the lift gate and then fished it down the pillar.

I used a braided wire sheath to insulate the wire and make it rattle free inside upper gate. I used loom and anti rattle pads around the loom.

Then under carpet using duct tape to cover the wire from one side to the other where ill tie into power.