Knuckle Stud Options (1 Viewer)

[joshrabon]

Well it almost got me! I had a knuckle arm coming loose on my passenger side. Caught it just in time!

My question is, does any one have info on a replacement stud/cone washer/nut that I could find locally at Napa until my real stud kit arrives? I don’t want to ride around on 3 for too long..

 

[OffRoadScott]

Well it almost got me! I had a knuckle arm coming loose on my passenger side. Caught it just in time!

My question is, does any one have info on a replacement stud/cone washer/nut that I could find locally at Napa until my real stud kit arrives? I don’t want to ride around on 3 for too long..

I would torque them all down to spec and deal with it. Hopefully you ordered extras just in case. I would say order some "nut huggers" from Absolute Wits End but apparently he is no longer taking online payments.

 

[joshrabon]

I would torque them all down to spec and deal with it. Hopefully you ordered extras just in case. I would say order some "nut huggers" from Absolute Wits End but apparently he is no longer taking online payments.

Yeah for sure! Definitely getting some extras.

My issue is that the entire stud has backed out and it’s an open hole for the moly grease to leak out. Anyone got a spec on a bolt or something to plug it for the time being?

 

[nukegoat]

Yeah for sure! Definitely getting some extras.

My issue is that the entire stud has backed out and it’s an open hole for the moly grease to leak out. Anyone got a spec on a bolt or something to plug it for the time being?

Just throw an m10 bolt or whatever in there

 

[Malleus]

The studs are M12 x 1.25 x 57-mm long, although the last 3-mm is a pilot diameter, so 55-mm long would be OK. And, as @nukegoat said, you could just replace them with bolts. That's what Toyota did on the top; I have no idea why it wasn't done that way on the bottom. It wouldn't have affected the washers at all. Maybe it's a Japanese standard design practice.

These are a stock item in the warehouse. Any dealer should be able to get them next day. I have spares, but you'd have to drive to Charlotte to get them, and it wouldn't be any faster than new ones from the dealer. Still, you're welcome to them.

 

[Malleus]

So, just for grins, I asked the interwebs for the their opinion on why studs are used instead of bolts. I ran across this pile of ridiculous crap, in answer to the very same question I looked up, written by a pair of geniuses who expound like typical wannabe engineers. I never cease to be amazed at what people come up with to justify their self proclaimed "explanations" of the physical world. This is one of the best I've read/heard in a long time.

The linked article is another, less enjoyable, diatribe, but attempts to make a point, or two. The first is that SAE, and all other systems I know of, do not specify clamp load fasteners to resist shear loads. The claim is made that this is why studs are used instead of bolts, because the studs have two threaded areas separated by a "full diameter" area, in the joint. Apparently he's not referring to Toyota designs...and besides, we're talking about a 12-mm or 7/16 diameter body. It's not like the thread depth is 0.100-inch. The diametral reduction is less than the recipe error in the steel production, accounting for the strength (that's why all steel is advertised with a strength range, and not a strength value).

The second is that studs are used when threaded into cast or forged parts, to reduce the wear, due to thread stretch, that would occur when the fastener is repeatedly installed/removed. I could almost buy this for cast parts, but not forged parts, which are made from rolled material (just try to forge a casting). In addition to that, he's obviously never seen the studs on my trucks, which can't stay in their holes to save their lives. I could maybe buy the argument for cast material only, if the studs would stay in when installed, but I've seen them do that less than 50% of the time; not exactly an engineering target I'd count on in calculations). The bolts I install stay in the castings better than the studs; so much so they break more often than they come out.

This is what happens when I get bored and don't have pressing matters to attend to. I think I'll go clean my shop.

 

[joshrabon]

@Malleus I was in a pinch so I searched for bolts that fit that pattern and found this at the local advance. Seems like the necked down cone fits where the cone washer fits.

It fit perfectly and went in without any resistance. So until my new stud set arrives, this is keeping all the moly grease in my knuckle. Bolt was like 4 bucks. I got it good and snug but didn’t torque it down to spec because I want to get it out eventually. It’s serving as a plug at the moment.

Got her cleaned up and pumped some fresh grease in!

Needless to say, I’m checking my nuts every day now.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Search up Landtank website for upgrdade studs.

Or Toyota

Post in thread '(Not mine) parts/repair needed for stranded 80 near Denver' (Not mine) parts/repair needed for stranded 80 near Denver - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/not-mine-parts-repair-needed-for-stranded-80-near-denver.1287054/post-14490631

 

[fjbj40]

@Malleus I was in a pinch so I searched for bolts that fit that pattern and found this at the local advance. Seems like the necked down cone fits where the cone washer fits.

View attachment 3451790


It fit perfectly and went in without any resistance. So until my new stud set arrives, this is keeping all the moly grease in my knuckle. Bolt was like 4 bucks. I got it good and snug but didn’t torque it down to spec because I want to get it out eventually. It’s serving as a plug at the moment.

Got her cleaned up and pumped some fresh grease in!

Needless to say, I’m checking my nuts every day now.

Would be a great addition to a spares box, it it is the same taper.

Still a good thing to use if needed in a just in case.