KISS Drawers (Keep It Simple Storage) For 100 Series (6 Viewers)

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I believe that the rational of tying them down has more to do with the worst case scenario- sure, driving around to the state parks or touring around to see the sights presents a smaller risk of roll-over than rock crawling or driving off-camber trails. But what’s important to remember is that your drawer system, however it’s composed, is essentially a piece of furniture sitting behind the heads of your passengers, your children. Should you loose control on an icy road and end up laying your car on it’s side, is the cabinet in the back going to stay put, or might it get thrown into the second row? If someone is looking at their phone instead of paying attention to the traffic ahead of them rear ends you, will the set of drawer stay put, or get launched forward into the second row?
How you decide to tie things down is up to common sense and the resources available to you. I purchased some turn buckles from Home Depot and used the mounting points in the floor of the cargo space. Ratchet straps or some other strap system might also serve. What are you comfortable doing? What system is adequate to the task. Only you can answer that question. Personally, I think the risk inherent in a rear-ending situation is much more serious than in an Offroad situation.
@Bigherm22 the included strap (one per Reef) is for basic duty and like @changingground says: safety. That 1,200 lb breaking strength strap will keep your drawer safe in the back in that bad day scenario, and actually it will be MUCH safer than if all that stuff had been in plastic bins and loose in the back and not in drawers, (ever see steel shackles just laying out?) ;)

In an offroad scenario though, your truck is bouncing, canted at every imaginable angle, and one strap ain't going to keep it all locked into one place, it'll bump and thump around. There are two equally good ways to address the offroader's need, bolting down or ratcheting down. I can't predict what vehicle a drawer will go in, or in what position, and I sure can't get out there and measure and design for each, hence these 'universal' methods I've come up with.

The custom-made ratchet straps are fast to install/remove, but you need good d-rings placed at the right angles to lock everything down. (if they are all behind the drawers then when you cinch down they will pull it backward) Or if you have existing bolt holes from 3rd row seats as many do, you can get the anchor plates, drill through in the right spots and bolt it all down. Up to you. (Oh, and it also changes if you are going 2 high or 2 wide, or mounting in the middle, etc... you get the idea, lots of options.)

True story: a customer of KISS drawers rolled his rig, truck was totaled, but nothing flew out of the drawers. The drawers themselves were definitely tweaked but he took them out, put them in his replacement rig, and they were fine.
wreck-outside.jpg

wreck inside.jpg


So the bottom line is it is up to every driver to responsibly secure the contents of their vehicle, be that a rubbermaid bin, a home depot toolbox, ammo cans, a drawer system, or a home-made-whachacallit. Whatever you do, strap it down & be safe.
 
@Bigherm22 the included strap (one per Reef) is for basic duty and like @changingground says: safety. That 1,200 lb breaking strength strap will keep your drawer safe in the back in that bad day scenario, and actually it will be MUCH safer than if all that stuff had been in plastic bins and loose in the back and not in drawers, (ever see steel shackles just laying out?) ;)

In an offroad scenario though, your truck is bouncing, canted at every imaginable angle, and one strap ain't going to keep it all locked into one place, it'll bump and thump around. There are two equally good ways to address the offroader's need, bolting down or ratcheting down. I can't predict what vehicle a drawer will go in, or in what position, and I sure can't get out there and measure and design for each, hence these 'universal' methods I've come up with.

The custom-made ratchet straps are fast to install/remove, but you need good d-rings placed at the right angles to lock everything down. (if they are all behind the drawers then when you cinch down they will pull it backward) Or if you have existing bolt holes from 3rd row seats as many do, you can get the anchor plates, drill through in the right spots and bolt it all down. Up to you. (Oh, and it also changes if you are going 2 high or 2 wide, or mounting in the middle, etc... you get the idea, lots of options.)

True story: a customer of KISS drawers rolled his rig, truck was totaled, but nothing flew out of the drawers. The drawers themselves were definitely tweaked but he took them out, put them in his replacement rig, and they were fine.
View attachment 2236413
View attachment 2236414

So the bottom line is it is up to every driver to responsibly secure the contents of their vehicle, be that a rubbermaid bin, a home depot toolbox, ammo cans, a drawer system, or a home-made-whachacallit. Whatever you do, strap it down & be safe.
I remember reading about that flipped truck with surviving drawers, and more importantly a surviving driver. Great news all around! I haven't seen anyone say the included standard straps just weren't enough for daily driving and that's what I was mostly wondering. Just got the email that the "upgraded straps" were now available and was trying to decide if I should spring for them right away, wait for the anchor plates to be available, or just install the included straps (which arrived a few hours ago, thank you very much!). Was definitely never considering not strapping them down at all. Thanks for the reply, methinks you work too much. Now about those wing kits...😉
 
I remember reading about that flipped truck with surviving drawers, and more importantly a surviving driver. Great news all around! I haven't seen anyone say the included standard straps just weren't enough for daily driving and that's what I was mostly wondering. Just got the email that the "upgraded straps" were now available and was trying to decide if I should spring for them right away, wait for the anchor plates to be available, or just install the included straps (which arrived a few hours ago, thank you very much!). Was definitely never considering not strapping them down at all. Thanks for the reply, methinks you work too much. Now about those wing kits...😉
no prob, and your message did come through as you intended - I just went a little overboard there because I feel strongly about safety. Almost every single rig I have crawled in to make measurements had stuff laying all over, and I understand why, I do, but my nature I guess.

Anchors are mere days away if that helps your decision? ;)
 
@cruzerDave Do the vehicle specific anchor plates requiring any drilling? I'm doubting it, but wanted to make sure.
 
YouTube has the exclusive



I’m learning Dave has another family that I never knew about. We still love you Dave! Can’t wait for round two, that video has me excited to get my hands on these.

Well, this video has MOSTLY saved my ass on things I was having trouble with. But can anyone tell me how the hell to get the tops on the double unit. I'm just too clumsy to keep the t-bolts lined up!!!
 
Well, this video has MOSTLY saved my ass on things I was having trouble with. But can anyone tell me how the hell to get the tops on the double unit. I'm just too clumsy to keep the t-bolts lined up!!!
Sorry you're having trouble - how I do it is start the board mostly on top, not at a far end. Then you line up the t-nuts for one of the aluminum AND the 2nd, then slide forward. It should contact one aluminum bar first, allowing you to get it aligned, THEN the 2nd a shot distance later. Another strategy is to lay the large boards on the ground and do the whole thing upside down- you can reach through the base to help line things up. Email me if those don't help.

For everyone else: ANCHOR PLATES ARE IN, up for sale today, ship in 1-2 days.
 
Sorry you're having trouble - how I do it is start the board mostly on top, not at a far end. Then you line up the t-nuts for one of the aluminum AND the 2nd, then slide forward. It should contact one aluminum bar first, allowing you to get it aligned, THEN the 2nd a shot distance later. Another strategy is to lay the large boards on the ground and do the whole thing upside down- you can reach through the base to help line things up. Email me if those don't help.

For everyone else: ANCHOR PLATES ARE IN, up for sale today, ship in 1-2 days.
I got it, just had to stand the whole thing up. It's really just because I have serious dexterity issues. A normal person probably wouldn't have any trouble. That being said, it's all done and I'm amazed with my non-carpentry skills how perfect everything turned out. It's really sharp. I may post notes for the tricks and troubles I had intended not for the common man, but for others that have low spacial awareness, trouble concentrating, and my aforementioned lack of finger dexterity. It can be done!
 
I got it, just had to stand the whole thing up. It's really just because I have serious dexterity issues. A normal person probably wouldn't have any trouble. That being said, it's all done and I'm amazed with my non-carpentry skills how perfect everything turned out. It's really sharp. I may post notes for the tricks and troubles I had intended not for the common man, but for others that have low spacial awareness, trouble concentrating, and my aforementioned lack of finger dexterity. It can be done!
Please email me any tips tricks and pictures as well, I am always looking to improve the directions!

Anchors are for sale, hoping to box up more Reefs and have in stock after this weekend.

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Wings are coming, promise, and to the 100 series first of course! See here's one set being tested!
89827541_238917363941501_2911981884345415469_n.jpg

(table slide through the drawer mod by the customer, @adoptingadventure!)
 
Please email me any tips tricks and pictures as well, I am always looking to improve the directions!

Anchors are for sale, hoping to box up more Reefs and have in stock after this weekend.

View attachment 2242100

Wings are coming, promise, and to the 100 series first of course! See here's one set being tested!
View attachment 2242121
(table slide through the drawer mod by the customer, @adoptingadventure!)
Dave - Do these drawers limit the 2nd row seat back recline? Can you recline at all?
 
Dave - Do these drawers limit the 2nd row seat back recline? Can you recline at all?
designed so you can recline 2 clicks (on my 98) before wings will rub when opening. If you trim the wings more you will be able to recline more, CIY (customize it yourself) for the win!
 
My install. I used Behr deck stain per the Home Depot expert reco, and it worked great. I covered with
Rubber-Cal Diamond Plate Metallic PVC Flooring from Amazon. Decided not to glue it down in case I wanted to take it all apart someday. I only screwed it down with the 3/4" aluminum angle bar on the front. Figured the aluminum was important to protect the front edge. Also put the rubber inside the drawers to protect the wood and dampen rattles. Everything works great!

In all, more than a 2 beer project, but not hard. Dave has done a great job with directions and the "drawer tool" is ingenious!

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I installed the diamond flooring for my drawers. Amazon product ASIN B015T8O0YY
I spent the winter in Arizona and on a hot day in the sun, the flooring peeled and separated. Argh! I'm glad I didn't glue it down -- just screwed it -- so I can replace it with something else. BTW, I thought the diamond flooring would help prevent things from sliding. It didn't.

BTW, I LOVE the drawers!
 
I see Universal Wing kits are for sale! @cruzerDave , any guess how soon 100 specific wings or anchor plates might be available?
Anchor plates are for sale but stock is hit and miss as I ramp up, check the store. Wings are good for noAC's (mine) but I need a positive confirmation of the RearAC side before I will release in qty.
Hey @cruzerDave what saw would you recommend I use to cut the universal wing kits?
I would use a jig saw, easier to control than a rotary like a dremel or rotozip. Cut the straights first, then the curves cut wide. Wood rasp down to exact. Think about how you want to grab and open them - finger hole, strap - I cut one area wide for fingers to slide down and in.
 
@cruzerDave How long would you estimate removal of a reef drawer with the 100 specific mounting plates? I don’t see any info on how the mounting plates are actually attached to the truck, so hard for me estimate. Thanks
 
Curious of folks long term expericance with the UHMW extrustion slides. Dave seems to have gone a differnt direction for the REEF drawers. It looks like you gain an inch of width but loose an inch of height. Im considering using them for a DIY drawer system for an LR3 (which is like a LC with a touch of snobbery, rides better on road and off, has a nicer interior and has lots of gizmos that you get to fix. Fun right?). Was there issues with them binding up and not sliding easily? Difficult to mount correctly? They are also expensive. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
 
@cruzerDave How long would you estimate removal of a reef drawer with the 100 specific mounting plates? I don’t see any info on how the mounting plates are actually attached to the truck, so hard for me estimate. Thanks
I'll try and get a photo up of the mounting, sorry bout that - basically they just bolt into factory welded nuts used for the 3rd row. How long removal takes varies based on what modules you've built, so I'll just describe the process for the common 2-side-by-side drawer setup.

Plates: slide out drawers and set aside. Reach over the tailgate into the skeleton and unscrew 2 bolts. Slightly awkward angle and reach but not bad. Go to 2nd row, flip up the seat, reach in and unscrew a bolt. Go over to the other side, flip up its seat, unscrew another bolt.

Straps: slide out drawers and set aside. Reach over the tailgate and loosen each strap. Go to passenger door 1, flip seat flat, reach in and loosen strap, go to other side and do the same.

Not too different, but straps are quicker. Both hold great, but for the most extreme hold I would give it to the straps. They take up some space in the wing area, however - so, no single best for everyone, hence why I sell both.
 
I'll try and get a photo up of the mounting, sorry bout that - basically they just bolt into factory welded nuts used for the 3rd row. How long removal takes varies based on what modules you've built, so I'll just describe the process for the common 2-side-by-side drawer setup.

Plates: slide out drawers and set aside. Reach over the tailgate into the skeleton and unscrew 2 bolts. Slightly awkward angle and reach but not bad. Go to 2nd row, flip up the seat, reach in and unscrew a bolt. Go over to the other side, flip up its seat, unscrew another bolt.

Straps: slide out drawers and set aside. Reach over the tailgate and loosen each strap. Go to passenger door 1, flip seat flat, reach in and loosen strap, go to other side and do the same.

Not too different, but straps are quicker. Both hold great, but for the most extreme hold I would give it to the straps. They take up some space in the wing area, however - so, no single best for everyone, hence why I sell both.
Good write up of the process. I appreciate the info.
 
Here is my finished Reef Drawer setup with wings and the sandbar cutting board. Overall the drawers turned out great and I couldn't be happier. Everything went together very well and is extremely functional. Big thanks to @cruzerDave for putting out an exceptional product!!
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Those look fantastic! I love what he's done on the redesign! I have the mk2's and I love mine, but these are so slick!
 

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