keyless entry key fob help. (1 Viewer)

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Nov 18, 2015
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Location
bay area ca.
Hello everyone! This is my first thread on Mud, I am a long time user on tacomaworld.com I still have my 2001 Tacoma and currently it is underling going surgery in the form of ruff stuff axles and 37s...anyway I bought a 1997 fzj80 today and need some help!

vehicle: 1997 FZJ80 3x locked, black on grey, ome 2.5.

My question is how do I go about getting a new remote and do I have factory rs3000? This is the one I have currently,



it unlocks the doors but it appears that the glue used to key the key in place has prohibited the lock button from working. I can still lock the doors from inside the truck before i exit and use the fob to unlock it.

during my digging I learned that I THINK I have the rs3000 factory system, but I do not think this key is a factory unit. ALSO there is an aftermarket alarm system installed, I can see the remnants of it under the dash.

I checked under the driver seat and did not see the rs3000 unit, where else could it be? I need to know if my truck has this system originally so I can get a new remote. I found this one on amazon and it appears to work with the rs3000 but my remote does not look like the og Toyota ones.

http://www.amazon.com/QualityKeyles...automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive

I purchased this truck from RustyShackelford but believe @RAYJON was the original owner so maybe he has some insight...

here it is! big mods coming soon!
 
if the system is not under your seat, the aftermarket systems typically hang in the driver side footwell on the left side behind the cover panel
 
I tried 3 aftermarket fobs and none of them worked. My original still workes barely, so it is not a problem with the system. I threw in the towel.
 
googling the "securikey" logo on your key fob links to a UK company - apparently an aftermarket system - not RS3000
 
googling the "securikey" logo on your key fob links to a UK company - apparently an aftermarket system - not RS3000

i just found this in my owners manual folder, looks like its an aftermarket system but still installed by toyota, the manual has a lot of info in it but nothing that I'm actually looking for.

 
Have a Viper installed with Alarm and Remote Start.
Mine was $115 on Ebay and I removed old alarm and they installed new for $85.
Don't put lipstick on a pig and try to make the 90's system work.
They have failed on both of my cars. New Tech is much better.
Or just use key in door till that fails.
 
Have a Viper installed with Alarm and Remote Start.
Mine was $115 on Ebay and I removed old alarm and they installed new for $85.
Don't put lipstick on a pig and try to make the 90's system work.
They have failed on both of my cars. New Tech is much better.
Or just use key in door till that fails.

^^I have to agree with this^^....I have a rs3000 and it will flash the lights but does not trigger the lock/unlock at all and of course does not enable an alarm. I really just want the keyless entry, but will probably go forth with a modern system, and as one member did, use the "T" harness of the rs3000 to easily graft in the new alarm, at least I hope its easy, I have removed the tape from the rs3000 harness yet can find no breaks or corroded factory splices, yet it still fails to trigger the locks/alarm, though the power locks do work from the master switch on the armrests and of course with the key in the door the secondary locks all lock/unlock as well, so I am guessing its just a typical failure in the control box somehow, and I cant find ant schematics on the controller to even begin to troubleshoot it.
 
^^I have to agree with this^^....I have a rs3000 and it will flash the lights but does not trigger the lock/unlock at all and of course does not enable an alarm. I really just want the keyless entry, but will probably go forth with a modern system, and as one member did, use the "T" harness of the rs3000 to easily graft in the new alarm, at least I hope its easy, I have removed the tape from the rs3000 harness yet can find no breaks or corroded factory splices, yet it still fails to trigger the locks/alarm, though the power locks do work from the master switch on the armrests and of course with the key in the door the secondary locks all lock/unlock as well, so I am guessing its just a typical failure in the control box somehow, and I cant find ant schematics on the controller to even begin to troubleshoot it.

ALarms are not easy to put in. I mean if you do them all the time they are, but I am no slouch and I could not figure it out.
You do not need bypasses and relays and diodes like posts on specify.
Taking the dash apart is a pretty straight forward design.
 
Mine came with 2 key fobs. PO said they used to work - maybe a bad battery. I changed the batteries on both but still no success. I started to trouble shoot only to find the control box under the drivers seat was gone. I think a modern unit has been installed but i have no idea which kind. The key fobs are badly worn and impossible to read any of the info printed on the back. I would love to have remote entry but installing another aftermarket system on top of an existing aftermarket system sounds complicated.
 
Had to get replacements more than once for the black one in 16 years, toyota installed all of the keyless systems dock side in the US, they differ, try the dealer and see what they say, if i remember there were 2 or 3 different ones. If you get a part number then search online.. for a cheep cross refference.. enjoy the truck.
 
I struck gold tonight. My wife managed to decipher the badly worn info on the back of my fobs and a quick Google search identified it as a Rostra APSR system with FCC:JDRAPSBT. These are still being installed on Toyota cars even today. Not sure when mine was installed but I was able to find a site that had instructions on how to reprogram the fobs. I now now have two working fobs and a keyless entry system..yeah..
 
ALarms are not easy to put in. I mean if you do them all the time they are, but I am no slouch and I could not figure it out.
You do not need bypasses and relays and diodes like posts on specify.
Taking the dash apart is a pretty straight forward design.

believe me, I know this....I installed the rs3000 from a oem kit I bought on ebay right after I bought my cruiser in 2002, and up until last year it was fine......now not so much, and if I had any hair it would be gone after unwrapping that damn harness and hoping I would find a bad connection simply causing the door locks not to lock/unlock. I mean this thing is pissing me off, as it will even fire the horn in "panic" mode if you hold the fob button down, but it refuses to lock the doors............and I really liked the plug and play simplicity over hacking everything. as I removed and patched wires from a aftermarket system that didn't work when I bought it.
gonna leave it for now, and when its warmer in the spring, I will probably attempt an aftermarket viper or similar system.
 
Thanks everyone for the input, and @RAYJON I will enjoy her, going to raise my family in it as you did!

So I have come to the conclusion that.
-I do not have rs3000
-I do have dealer installed securikey
-Both ignition keys will not unlock from the door

^thag fact scares me because if the remote breaks I'll be SOL and probably have to call a locksmith.

Someone JB welded the key fob so I can't get in to change the battery without destroying it. My options are : replace key fob with eBay unit and hope I can program it. Or replace it with a newer keyless entry alarm system and hope someone doesn't just hack it on top of the system that's already in there....The correct remotes I need are only $50 on eBay NOS or used, I'm thinking of going that route first as it seems cheapest.

I really wish I had some time off to figure this out!!! Been working like crazy since I got it, haven't even detailed it yet!
 
-Both ignition keys will not unlock from the door

^thag fact scares me because if the remote breaks I'll be SOL and probably have to call a locksmith.
The keys that came with my truck when I bought it a year ago, did not work well in the door locks. I think it would be worth having your dealer make a "VIN cut key". (They can create a new key based on your VIN, rather than making a copy of your worn key.) You can expect to pay $10 - $30 for one, and they're likely to be willing to cut another for whatever they charge for a regular key copy. Between a VIN cut key and some graphite lock lube, and my door keys work sooooooooooooo smooth.

Unless someone replaced your doors or locks, I think new keys may help. The old keys worked fine in the ignition, but the new keys are even better for that too.
 
The keys that came with my truck when I bought it a year ago, did not work well in the door locks. I think it would be worth having your dealer make a "VIN cut key". (They can create a new key based on your VIN, rather than making a copy of your worn key.) You can expect to pay $10 - $30 for one, and they're likely to be willing to cut another for whatever they charge for a regular key copy. Between a VIN cut key and some graphite lock lube, and my door keys work sooooooooooooo smooth.

Unless someone replaced your doors or locks, I think new keys may help. The old keys worked fine in the ignition, but the new keys are even better for that too.
That's good advice! I'll look into the vin keys
 

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