Trailteq keyless entry

[BuzzAZ]

Hey @Fj80oregon Glad to hear your problem was resolved and I am happy that my customer service helped out.

I had not actually seen these comments but thank you for tagging me. Not what I wanted to be reading or replying to a day before going away on holiday but here we are.



Hello again!

In our private messages last year, you were stating that you suspected that my unit is causing a parasitic draw. I never said that is out of the question, and was genuinely curious to get to the bottom of it.

It is upsetting to see that despite me offering several solutions and outcomes to you in our private messages, you feel the need to publically bash my product and the business that supports me and my family.

You mentioned above that you found my service unhelpful, stating that I wanted you to send it back to me at your expense. I am aware that you are in the US and postage back to me in Australia is long and a bit more expensive than domestic, which is why I linked you several resources showing how to test for parastic draw with a multimeter. I then even took time out of my day to take my car apart and film a video for you showing you how to do the test step by step. I did that for you so that we could hopefully determine if there was an issue and save you sending it back to me at all...

You were not willing to do any of those tests, so the only other option is to send the product back to me to test. I am sorry that you didn't like that but there is nothing else I can do in the absence of data to prove a claim.

Sending a suspected faulty product back to the manufacturer is standard warranty procedures for a suspected faulty product.

R.e. your feedback regarding the syncing requirements of my kit, as explained in our messages last year, it is not something that I can control as it is a limitation of the Toyota door control relay. When the manual door lock switch is set to lock, it stops the Toyota door control relay (not the wireless Trail Teq relay) from sending an unlock signal to the door lock motors. That is not my kit, it is how the Toyota system works and I can't change that without adding considerable complexity (and cost) to my kit. I don't want to do that as I want to keep the kit simple and affordable. At the end of the day, as long as the user locks and unlocks their car with the keyless fob (which is why most people buy this kit I guess...) and not the manual door lock, there will never be a syncing issue. Again, sorry that this is something you are not happy with.

Despite being disappointed to read these comments, I still want you to have a positive outcome with my product and my previous offers to rectify the suspected parasitic draw issues stands and will stand for the duration of the warranty period.

You can:

- Perform the diagnostic tests, send me a video of the tests and the results, and if it is confirmed my kit is causing your issues, I will refund you!
- Send the unit back to me for warranty testing. I can give you assistance/advice on doing this in a cost effective way through USPS. If it is faulty, I will refund or replace for you, and will of course reimburse any return postage expenses as I already stated to you. If there is a fault, you are not out of pocket...

Please send me a new private message, email, or instagram DM and I will happily help.

(Please bare in mind I am way on a camping holiday with my family for the next three days though, so will be able to reply when I get home).

Have a nice weekend.

Kind regards,
Ben

I’m not bashing anything. Everything I’ve said here is exactly what I told you via DM months ago. I described my experience with your unit and response to my issues. If you’re not going to describe the limitations of your product in your own product description then you can’t whine and play victim when someone else describes them for you.

For the 17th time now: my main issue is the limitation to your unit is severe and wasn’t described in your description of your product. It’s not exactly “keyless” entry if part of what you say is “normal” function involves using a key to open the door. You can blame the limitation on Toyota all you want, but it could have been solved with another 5 minutes of thought and 50 cents of parts. That’s what makes it a toy instead of a real product.

Here’s the test I performed: I removed the unit and all of my problems that only started when I plugged in your unit went away. Like I told you already, I’m not going to waste time going through my whole vehicle when the only thing that changed was your unit. If I cared that much about a refund I would have skipped your hoops and just disputed the charge with the CC.

 

[mudgudgeon]

You can blame the limitation on Toyota all you want, but it could have been solved with another 5 minutes of thought and 50 cents of parts.

So, design and build your own unit genius. Hell, you could even sell them for at least 50 cents more


I think you've been given a plausable explanation of the base vehicles limited, hard wired functionality.

 

[BuzzAZ]

So, design and build your own unit genius. Hell, you could even sell them for at least 50 cents more


I think you've been given a plausable explanation of the base vehicles limited, hard wired functionality.

Read my post, genius. My entire point is that it should have been properly described.

Oh, and if everyone operated within the base’s limited functionality we’d still be walking around barefoot. That’s a crappy excuse for bad engineering.

 

[Dean Callanan]

Hey @Fj80oregon Glad to hear your problem was resolved and I am happy that my customer service helped out.

I had not actually seen these comments but thank you for tagging me. Not what I wanted to be reading or replying to a day before going away on holiday but here we are.



Hello again!

In our private messages last year, you were stating that you suspected that my unit is causing a parasitic draw. I never said that is out of the question, and was genuinely curious to get to the bottom of it.

It is upsetting to see that despite me offering several solutions and outcomes to you in our private messages, you feel the need to publically bash my product and the business that supports me and my family.

You mentioned above that you found my service unhelpful, stating that I wanted you to send it back to me at your expense. I am aware that you are in the US and postage back to me in Australia is long and a bit more expensive than domestic, which is why I linked you several resources showing how to test for parastic draw with a multimeter. I then even took time out of my day to take my car apart and film a video for you showing you how to do the test step by step. I did that for you so that we could hopefully determine if there was an issue and save you sending it back to me at all...

You were not willing to do any of those tests, so the only other option is to send the product back to me to test. I am sorry that you didn't like that but there is nothing else I can do in the absence of data to prove a claim.

Sending a suspected faulty product back to the manufacturer is standard warranty procedures for a suspected faulty product.

R.e. your feedback regarding the syncing requirements of my kit, as explained in our messages last year, it is not something that I can control as it is a limitation of the Toyota door control relay. When the manual door lock switch is set to lock, it stops the Toyota door control relay (not the wireless Trail Teq relay) from sending an unlock signal to the door lock motors. That is not my kit, it is how the Toyota system works and I can't change that without adding considerable complexity (and cost) to my kit. I don't want to do that as I want to keep the kit simple and affordable. At the end of the day, as long as the user locks and unlocks their car with the keyless fob (which is why most people buy this kit I guess...) and not the manual door lock, there will never be a syncing issue. Again, sorry that this is something you are not happy with.

Despite being disappointed to read these comments, I still want you to have a positive outcome with my product and my previous offers to rectify the suspected parasitic draw issues stands and will stand for the duration of the warranty period.

You can:

- Perform the diagnostic tests, send me a video of the tests and the results, and if it is confirmed my kit is causing your issues, I will refund you!
- Send the unit back to me for warranty testing. I can give you assistance/advice on doing this in a cost effective way through USPS. If it is faulty, I will refund or replace for you, and will of course reimburse any return postage expenses as I already stated to you. If there is a fault, you are not out of pocket...

Please send me a new private message, email, or instagram DM and I will happily help.

(Please bare in mind I am way on a camping holiday with my family for the next three days though, so will be able to reply when I get home).

Have a nice weekend.

Kind regards,
Ben

Hi Ben
I just purchased one of these kits they look great .I was worried when I started reading these threads kept reading and I see no concerns here. Definitely would have no reason to be opening the door with the Key

 

[Irish Reiver]

I bought one of these earlier in the year and could not be happier with it. It has never not worked. I recall there was an option to have the indicators flash when you locked it and i wish I had got that option. Highly recommended.
I just wish they did one for my 3rd gen 4runner

 

[HDJ80L]

I've had that "out of sync" issue happen once when I had the car in the shop. Not sure how it happened because you can lock or unlock it with the remote or the key but somehow the mechanic got it out of sync. Picked up the car and couldn't unlock the driver door so had to get in through the hatch. Slim chance for this to happen but annoying when it does

 

[thatcabledude]

Mine has been “out of sync” a lot. It will always lock with the remote, but often not unlock wit the remote. I will unlock with the key and boom, the remote’s unlock function works again.

Reading this today I guess I have found out that situation happens when you lock up with the door switch when exiting instead of using the remote to lock when you walk away. I have locked with the door switch while exiting for 15 years, so I guess I need to break that habit to have flawless remote operation.

Glad popped into this thread. I had not put that together.

 

[Dean Callanan]

I bought one of these earlier in the year and could not be happier with it. It has never not worked. I recall there was an option to have the indicators flash when you locked it and i wish I had got that option. Highly recommended.
I just wish they did one for my 3rd

I bought one of these earlier in the year and could not be happier with it. It has never not worked. I recall there was an option to have the indicators flash when you locked it and i wish I had got that option. Highly recommended.
I just wish they did one for my 3rd gen 4runner

yeah I have a cheap one fitted now with no flasher is a bit anoying have to listen for the locking noise to be sure it’s locked when walking away. I added the flasher option to this one when I purchased it for that reason.

 

[Trail Teq]

Thank you to all those who have purchased one of my kits and are enjoying it!

For anyone interested in bypassing the sync issue that I outlined in this thread, you can disconnect the 2-pin connector of the drivers door barrel lock sensor, and the sync issue will go away. That connector is found in the door - follow the door wiring harness along the bottom of the door until you see the wire that goes to the drivers door barrel. On that wire is a connector. If you unplug it, the keyless kit will never be out of sync.

For those who don't want to read the entire thread, the reason why I ask customers to sync the kit is because when the door barrel sensor is set to the lock position (by using your key / interior manual lock switch in the handle), the OEM Toyota door control relay is unable to send an unlock signal to the central locking motors. By unplugging that sensor, the door control relay believes the car is always "unlocked", so there is never a sync issue and the keyless entry kit will lock and unlock the car remotely as you would expect

The only caveat is that by unplugging that sensor, using your key in the drivers door would only unlock the drivers door and not the central locking (but you have a keyless remote for locking and unlocking now anyway, so there's really no reason to ever have to use the key once you have a remote ).

 

[Trail Teq]

I bought one of these earlier in the year and could not be happier with it. It has never not worked. I recall there was an option to have the indicators flash when you locked it and i wish I had got that option. Highly recommended.
I just wish they did one for my 3rd gen 4runner

I can do a custom order for you for the plug and play indicator flash harness. $50 aud + shipping, just send an email to me using the Trail Teq contact page.

I have recently expanded into early 70 series (worldwide), and 90 Series Prado / 100 Series (Australian spec) keyless entry kits. I would love to do the 3rd gen 4runner too next year, I'll keep you in mind to help me test the prototype!

 

[deltapine1]

Nice looking unit! As a driver who routinely has to lock the 80 after entering it with the electric power lock switch on the driver door to prevent indigenous people from hitching rides I have a question? Will that create the out of sync situation? I think I understand it does. Or is it only if you use the manual rocker lock instead of the electric power lock switch?

 

[sadovnik]

Nice looking unit! As a driver who routinely has to lock the 80 after entering it with the electric power lock switch on the driver door to prevent indigenous people from hitching rides I have a question? Will that create the out of sync situation? I think I understand it does. Or is it only if you use the manual rocker lock instead of the electric power lock switch?

No. I lock my doors with the central door lock button all the time and have never had the out of sync issue. Actually, I've only had the out of sync issue when I leave it at the mechanic. I don't know what he does to it.

 

[Trail Teq]

The system only gets out of sync if the sensor on the actual door barrel is set to the lock position. This only happens if you use the key to the lock the door in teh door barrel - or - if you use the interior manual door lock (inside the door handle).

The central locking switch does not cause this to happen.

If anyone is keen to see a video of how the module installs, I have recently uploaded a video of the latest Version 4 system to my instagram - link to the instagram is in my post signature

 

[Trail Teq]

No. I lock my doors with the central door lock button all the time and have never had the out of sync issue. Actually, I've only had the out of sync issue when I leave it at the mechanic. I don't know what he does to it.

I would say your mechanic is locking the car with the key, not the remote!

 

[deltapine1]

The system only gets out of sync if the sensor on the actual door barrel is set to the lock position. This only happens if you use the key to the lock the door in teh door barrel - or - if you use the interior manual door lock (inside the door handle).

The central locking switch does not cause this to happen.

If anyone is keen to see a video of how the module installs, I have recently uploaded a video of the latest Version 4 system to my instagram - link to the instagram is in my post signature

Thanks for the reply. I ordered one yesterday. DD mine 20k to 25k miles a year so this will be a nice update.