NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Keep the ARB and send me the chrome. 
Builds Keeping another on the road- My Blue 1986 FJ60 Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Willard
- Start date
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4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Here's an option for a less beefy winch bumper. I'll be installing one (removed from my '84 FJ60) on my '86 FJ60, along with a Warn 8274-50 winch. Turns out the photo is from @roma042987's FJ60.
MALL CRAWLER! 20%-30% of the time off road is pretty darn good, a lot more than most of us!
I run an ARB winch bumper w/o winch and a stock chrome rear bumper.
I run an ARB winch bumper w/o winch and a stock chrome rear bumper.
- Thread starter
- #64
LOL
I am thinking of keeping the ARB simply because in Northern Virginia around where I live deer everywhere. (I had 2 on my driveway last night again) if nothing else the ARB will be good protection against the front getting destroyed.
The rear is still up in the air on if I keep it or not.
If I kept the ARB, I would do the same thing Ian, keep the winch out and only put it in if I know I will be somewhere I will need it. I can remove it in about 5-7 minuted and same for mounting it (yes it has anti theft bolts)
The more I put into this the less I want it heavily modified on the outside, I am starting to like the stock look better and should have put a more stock suspension on it.
I am thinking of keeping the ARB simply because in Northern Virginia around where I live deer everywhere. (I had 2 on my driveway last night again) if nothing else the ARB will be good protection against the front getting destroyed.
The rear is still up in the air on if I keep it or not.
If I kept the ARB, I would do the same thing Ian, keep the winch out and only put it in if I know I will be somewhere I will need it. I can remove it in about 5-7 minuted and same for mounting it (yes it has anti theft bolts)
The more I put into this the less I want it heavily modified on the outside, I am starting to like the stock look better and should have put a more stock suspension on it.
I think you needed an ARB on your Ford for deer protection!
For what its worth my truck has stock suspension and I wantl do a 2" OME in the near future, I just want a bit more height.
And a friend of mine just bought a 62 with the 2" lift and 31" tires, it looks perfect in my opinion.
For what its worth my truck has stock suspension and I wantl do a 2" OME in the near future, I just want a bit more height.
And a friend of mine just bought a 62 with the 2" lift and 31" tires, it looks perfect in my opinion.
- Thread starter
- #66
LOL
1/2 of that Ford is plastic in the front and parts are readily available so I have learned. It attracts deer real well it seems.
The 60 not so easy to get fenders and such any more. So i think you convinced me to keep the ARB.
I would keep the arb and front winch, a winch is rarely needed, but when u need it, typically its then very much needed. Armor in my opinion, even if you only wheel 25% of the time is something not to slack on. I would also install sliders. If you want to ditch weight then don't do the fuel tank as thats more of a luxury thing but adds significant weight.
- Thread starter
- #68
Agreed. Sliders I have, the PO had done the cut the rockers and weld in sliders about 10 years ago. I have looked at them in length and they seem sturdy enough. I wish someone made a decent skid plate (aside from a front plate for the steering). The transmission/ transfercase one that comes on these are a joke.
I agree on the fuel tank. BUT after having a LR tank in my F150 (38 gallon), it is a luxury I can live with. I will be driving my 60 across the US and filling up every 230 mile will be a massive suck.
I may just mount all of it and see how bad it really is on this trip.
I did drop the roof rack for a set of cross bars as the only thing I may carry is a boat. initially I was going to have a RTT, but decided that a good canvas ground tent is better (especially for my kids in the middle of the night). This trip though as it is just me, will be a platform in the back.
For weight so all know I am never talking about fuel economy. Simply weight dragging what is already a moving brick even more down.
Fuel economy and the 60 series are not something that go well in the same sentence (hell fuel economy and my F150 are not either, but then it is setup for towing and I get 10-12 mpg no matter what).
After having a FJCruiser on 33" with winch bumper, full rack, RTT and a slew of other things, it was dragged down by all of that weight. Never could get over 75MPH and uphill would drop way down to 55 and lower depending.
All that weight is gonna suck with stock gearing. Doesn’t just depend on the tire size. If you mount all that steel you’ll be installing those 4.11s pretty quick and you’ll want LOCKERS cause the diffs will be open. Lol
IMO if you are going to wheel the truck front and rear lockers would be my first mod especially if you got those 4.11s sitting on the shelf. Just a thought
IMO if you are going to wheel the truck front and rear lockers would be my first mod especially if you got those 4.11s sitting on the shelf. Just a thought
- Thread starter
- #70
All that weight is gonna suck with stock gearing. Doesn’t just depend on the tire size. If you mount all that steel you’ll be installing those 4.11s pretty quick and you’ll want LOCKERS cause the diffs will be open. Lol
IMO if you are going to wheel the truck front and rear lockers would be my first mod especially if you got those 4.11s sitting on the shelf. Just a thought
I agree with this. Lockers are in the plan, unfortunately that will be later. I have 4:11's sitting on the shelf in FJ62 3rds. But they need to be rebuilt and $$$ is not there for that. I can do it myself, and have done a set and it turned out great, but I alwasy had that feeling it would grenade. I will have OTRAMM rebuild them and at that time it will get front and rear Harrop lockers. Ryan did the rear 3:70 in there now. I have a full floating axle in the rearso it does give me some more options in lockers. I know ARB are great lockers, I just do not want to rely on Air.
If I can suffer through it for the next year I will be set. 2017/2018 there has been a crazy amount that has gone into this 60.
A 5-Speed will be done at some point in the next few years, right now that is an expense that is more luxury that I can live without. If I can drive a BJ42 4 speed all over British Columbia (in the Coast Mountains and Rocky's) I am sure the 6cyl 4-speed will be fine at this point.
When that engine goes, it will be the final excuse to upgrade to a V8 and a 5.0 or 5.8 Ford motor will be in the works since I have a new Marks 4WD kit with mounts sitting on the shelf in the garage. That though is years away. I figure the rear frame will rust out before that happens.
All of that is future plans and in the 5 year plan for this rig. Anything could change between now and then. Plus I am planning on adding a 40 at some point for my kids and I to rebuild.
- Thread starter
- #71
Busy weekend this weekend.
Some successes and some failures.
Failures.
Took off the tie rod ends etc and broke 2 bolts for the clamps. Ordered the correct clamps and bolts so there it sits for a week.
Successes.
Installed the new master cylinder and while I was at it a new brake booster (City Racer's)
Bleed the brakes. My pressure bleeder rocked for this (have had this for a few years)
Installed the west Texas Offroad rebuilt power steering gearbox and my pitman arm, cannot do much else until the clamps arrive.
Old gearbox is in need of a rebuild for sure.
Received and test fitted the Mean Green Alt I bought of a member here. That thing is HUGE, but fits perfectly once I made a proper spacer (no stacked washers for me).
Looks like I can use the two pulleys as they do not tough or even come close to the fan or shroud.
What are your thoughts about dumping the Smog pump all together and running the belt off the alt for the water pump? Hard to tell from the pics but everything lines up exactly how it should. And i even test fitted a belt for the PS pump. Straight.
Pics
Some successes and some failures.
Failures.
Took off the tie rod ends etc and broke 2 bolts for the clamps. Ordered the correct clamps and bolts so there it sits for a week.
Successes.
Installed the new master cylinder and while I was at it a new brake booster (City Racer's)
Bleed the brakes. My pressure bleeder rocked for this (have had this for a few years)
Installed the west Texas Offroad rebuilt power steering gearbox and my pitman arm, cannot do much else until the clamps arrive.
Old gearbox is in need of a rebuild for sure.
Received and test fitted the Mean Green Alt I bought of a member here. That thing is HUGE, but fits perfectly once I made a proper spacer (no stacked washers for me).
Looks like I can use the two pulleys as they do not tough or even come close to the fan or shroud.
What are your thoughts about dumping the Smog pump all together and running the belt off the alt for the water pump? Hard to tell from the pics but everything lines up exactly how it should. And i even test fitted a belt for the PS pump. Straight.
Pics
- Thread starter
- #72
So I will have Pics of this up shortly, However you can see the new booster from City Racer in the shots above.
Last night I was concerned I did not adjust the pin correctly for the booster to master so I pulled the master off and checked. Should have trusted myself as it was set right (I just measured the old one and compared). To do this, Toyota has an SST 09737-00010 for this and it cost about $199. I thought no f***ing way. So I started to look online and found this tool.
1968-76 Corvete Power Brake Booster Pin Adjustment Tool
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Brake-...vette+Power+Brake+Booster+Pin+Adjustment+Tool
I bought it through Amazon but later found their site. For 25 bucks and I can return it if it does not work and if it does I will throw it in the tool box, I figured why not try it out.
Well I am here to tell you it worked perfectly. As my master and booster is back together I will send pics of this using my old set.
All you are doing with this is measure the depth of the booster plunger into the master cylinder. Essentually this is a cheaper SST.
Really if you are sure you can just measure the old booster and then compair that to the new one and adjust it. I did this first and it turned out that my measurements were dead on.
I also pulled my dash pad last night. I found somewhere on this forum that you do not need to pull the cluster all of the way out. That is absolutely correct. Mine is not unhooked and I was able to get the pad unbolted and removed.
I am putting a cap on it and will be gluing that tonight. I also managed to install a new radio into the dash (yes listen to other on here it is much easier when it is off) and custom made a panel out of lexan to fill the gaps.
Making more progress. Deadline is approaching where this needs to be running and moving. I have 2 weeks to finish a huge laundry list of things.
I did put off any more body work and put off the repaint until I return from Colorado.
Last night I was concerned I did not adjust the pin correctly for the booster to master so I pulled the master off and checked. Should have trusted myself as it was set right (I just measured the old one and compared). To do this, Toyota has an SST 09737-00010 for this and it cost about $199. I thought no f***ing way. So I started to look online and found this tool.
1968-76 Corvete Power Brake Booster Pin Adjustment Tool
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Brake-...vette+Power+Brake+Booster+Pin+Adjustment+Tool
I bought it through Amazon but later found their site. For 25 bucks and I can return it if it does not work and if it does I will throw it in the tool box, I figured why not try it out.
Well I am here to tell you it worked perfectly. As my master and booster is back together I will send pics of this using my old set.
All you are doing with this is measure the depth of the booster plunger into the master cylinder. Essentually this is a cheaper SST.
Really if you are sure you can just measure the old booster and then compair that to the new one and adjust it. I did this first and it turned out that my measurements were dead on.
I also pulled my dash pad last night. I found somewhere on this forum that you do not need to pull the cluster all of the way out. That is absolutely correct. Mine is not unhooked and I was able to get the pad unbolted and removed.
I am putting a cap on it and will be gluing that tonight. I also managed to install a new radio into the dash (yes listen to other on here it is much easier when it is off) and custom made a panel out of lexan to fill the gaps.
Making more progress. Deadline is approaching where this needs to be running and moving. I have 2 weeks to finish a huge laundry list of things.
I did put off any more body work and put off the repaint until I return from Colorado.
- Thread starter
- #73
So I have been posting in What did you do with your 60 this weekend? and have been neglecting my thread.
So what has been done?
IN the past 2 weekends
Bleed the brakes again and now all set.
As I had my dash pad removed, I took the chance to glue down the dash cap (pic forthcoming)
Fixed all of the leaks on the transmission and transfer case (these were all superficial and easily done)
drained and filled the transmission and transfer case
Removed the 10 year old bypass host and installed an new one by @shipmag
Removed the drive shafts and replaced the u-joints
Filled the rear diff with oil
Replaced the oil in the front diff
Did an oil change
Pulled the gas tank (that is not fun by yourself)
Installed a new fuel level sensor into the Long range tank and setup all new lines
Installed the long range fuel tank (again by myself) That was a pita with the lift and tires installed my jack even with a 4x4 piece of wood was not pushing it up high enough. A couple of jack stands helped.
Put the Dobinson rear bumper on
Wired up the MG alternator and put in a mega fuse (custom made the wires myself)
Put on the belts.
Filled the PS
Filled the coolant system
Replaced a bunch of ground wires with some custom made ones
Installed the steering components (all new stuff!!)
Did a garage alignment (super easy and far from my first time)
Put the battery in permanently for the first time in a year!
Mounted the winch
Started the install for the radio (pulled wire)
Pull wire for the rear power outlet
Looked at the Air Conditioning unit and decided while the compressor is dirty there is pressure in the system (just low) I decided to risk it and see if it will run, tested the clutch and it does engage. If it will not then i will replace the whole system (staying R12)
Changed the fuel pump
Changed the fuel filter
Changed the PCV
Mounted the air cleaner for the first time in a year.
So what has been done?
IN the past 2 weekends
Bleed the brakes again and now all set.
As I had my dash pad removed, I took the chance to glue down the dash cap (pic forthcoming)
Fixed all of the leaks on the transmission and transfer case (these were all superficial and easily done)
drained and filled the transmission and transfer case
Removed the 10 year old bypass host and installed an new one by @shipmag
Removed the drive shafts and replaced the u-joints
Filled the rear diff with oil
Replaced the oil in the front diff
Did an oil change
Pulled the gas tank (that is not fun by yourself)
Installed a new fuel level sensor into the Long range tank and setup all new lines
Installed the long range fuel tank (again by myself) That was a pita with the lift and tires installed my jack even with a 4x4 piece of wood was not pushing it up high enough. A couple of jack stands helped.
Put the Dobinson rear bumper on
Wired up the MG alternator and put in a mega fuse (custom made the wires myself)
Put on the belts.
Filled the PS
Filled the coolant system
Replaced a bunch of ground wires with some custom made ones
Installed the steering components (all new stuff!!)
Did a garage alignment (super easy and far from my first time)
Put the battery in permanently for the first time in a year!
Mounted the winch
Started the install for the radio (pulled wire)
Pull wire for the rear power outlet
Looked at the Air Conditioning unit and decided while the compressor is dirty there is pressure in the system (just low) I decided to risk it and see if it will run, tested the clutch and it does engage. If it will not then i will replace the whole system (staying R12)
Changed the fuel pump
Changed the fuel filter
Changed the PCV
Mounted the air cleaner for the first time in a year.
- Thread starter
- #74
So where am I today.
Overheated (it is 98* in my garage + humidity) and getting a new fan tomorrow. I am telling next year i am installing a AC unit into my garage and getting is sealed.
That said, I started pulling out the AC system to replace everything with new parts.
I have
Compressor
Condensor
Dryer
Evap valve
Evap core
Evap pressure switch
New o-rings
New valves
I took the time and got my MVAC Technicians Certificate and bought some R12
I ordered a Vacuum pump today
The lines look Ok and I will reuse them
I know r134 is where it is at, but R12 is just cooler and in Northern VA we need it.
So the pump arrives Wednesday and the plan is to have everything replaced before then.
It was discovered the AC compressor has a broken bolt/ cap screw, so I get to drill out that one (5 bolt I have had to drill out) otherwise the compressor is not coming out.
Initially i was going to keep it and just recharge it. However I have replaced so much on the truck getting it ready for a daily driver, I decided that might as well just replace the AC.
Overheated (it is 98* in my garage + humidity) and getting a new fan tomorrow. I am telling next year i am installing a AC unit into my garage and getting is sealed.
That said, I started pulling out the AC system to replace everything with new parts.
I have
Compressor
Condensor
Dryer
Evap valve
Evap core
Evap pressure switch
New o-rings
New valves
I took the time and got my MVAC Technicians Certificate and bought some R12
I ordered a Vacuum pump today
The lines look Ok and I will reuse them
I know r134 is where it is at, but R12 is just cooler and in Northern VA we need it.
So the pump arrives Wednesday and the plan is to have everything replaced before then.
It was discovered the AC compressor has a broken bolt/ cap screw, so I get to drill out that one (5 bolt I have had to drill out) otherwise the compressor is not coming out.
Initially i was going to keep it and just recharge it. However I have replaced so much on the truck getting it ready for a daily driver, I decided that might as well just replace the AC.
You're going to have a brand new truck by the time you finish replacing stuff! Post up some pictures of your progress.
My PO had converted the AC to R134 and after I topped it off it has no problems cooling things off in the south Texas heat and humidity.
I hear you on the wrenching in the heat. I have a standard 2 car garage but insulated and installed AC years ago. One of the best things I have done at home.
My PO had converted the AC to R134 and after I topped it off it has no problems cooling things off in the south Texas heat and humidity.
I hear you on the wrenching in the heat. I have a standard 2 car garage but insulated and installed AC years ago. One of the best things I have done at home.
For the joints did you use spicer or Toyota?
- Thread starter
- #77
Yep brand new 32yo ride, got to love it.
Good to know about the R134 I hear good and bad things. I have everything I need to keep it R12 so for now that will be it. R134 is not so bad, My wife's yukon xl will freeze you out of the truck, where my F150 barely works (yes it is setup right). I think in the end it depends on the system and how efficient it was from day one.
I will have to have my garage insulated as wall, but that is coming next spring.
- Thread starter
- #78
Neither. Ordered them through Marlin Crawler and got Matsuba Brand (Matsui), made in Japan.
I have used Spicer in the past with fine results, but that was years ago.
My driveline guy said the OEM Toyota were better than spicer. Glad you got a good Japanese brand!
- Thread starter
- #80
Pulled the AC compressor out last night and the Evap unit.
I have pics but they are at home and I am at work.
AC compressor was a PITA as I had to drill out a bolt. I bought a right angle 3/8 drill a bit ago and I can tell you I have been using it on this 60.
It was a lifesaver here.
Bolt was drilled out no issues. After using crappy drill bits bought at big box stores I ended up getting a Noresman drill bit set. Made in the USA and they are sharp and work great. I thought for sure i would break a bit on drilling this out (sure sounded like I did) my old set (what ever tractor supply sells) would never have lasted. This set with a little tap oil was amazing. Took 15 minutes (slow speed) to drill out that bolt and pull the compressor.
Now if only I could use it to get the lines off. Every line came off ok with the exception of the dryer to condenser line. On the condenser side it was completely seized. I destroyed the line and ended up getting another (used) that will be here friday, but I can get everything installed tonight as I have everything else now (was waiting on the oil). It will be nice to have a brand new AC unit on this ride. So far everything has been Denso with the exception of the pressure switch, that is Toyota.
The longest part is cleaning everything up
I have pics but they are at home and I am at work.
AC compressor was a PITA as I had to drill out a bolt. I bought a right angle 3/8 drill a bit ago and I can tell you I have been using it on this 60.
It was a lifesaver here.
Bolt was drilled out no issues. After using crappy drill bits bought at big box stores I ended up getting a Noresman drill bit set. Made in the USA and they are sharp and work great. I thought for sure i would break a bit on drilling this out (sure sounded like I did) my old set (what ever tractor supply sells) would never have lasted. This set with a little tap oil was amazing. Took 15 minutes (slow speed) to drill out that bolt and pull the compressor.
Now if only I could use it to get the lines off. Every line came off ok with the exception of the dryer to condenser line. On the condenser side it was completely seized. I destroyed the line and ended up getting another (used) that will be here friday, but I can get everything installed tonight as I have everything else now (was waiting on the oil). It will be nice to have a brand new AC unit on this ride. So far everything has been Denso with the exception of the pressure switch, that is Toyota.
The longest part is cleaning everything up
