KDSS valve rust- WARNING (2 Viewers)

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$3700, ouch!

It’s crazy to me after as much as 10 years of documented cases, Toyota continues to put out vehicles with uncoated iron valve. The hex head valves are a start, but seems they’ve failed to address the real problem.
 
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So where can I get some marine grade film to protect the valves?
 
I Eat Glue said:
Ok I've had a few drinks of whiskey tonight and this sounded good, but I'm probaby a dumbass. Has anyone tried applying paint to the kdss housing and bolts to prevent rust?
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None of us with recessed allen screws would use paint. It would be a pain to dig out for a clean hole to grip a hex key. Grease or Fluid Film only on those.
 
I prefer LPS 3 because I only have to reapply every couple of years or more. I take a can with me when I shuffle around under there looking for grease zerks or I have the spare tire out. I have sprayed all the iron fittings I could find and any bolt that protrudes through a nut or nut plate and frame welds with LPS 3.

I have noticed more surface rust starting on the tail end if the main frame and the cross members that make up the tow hitch and any other bits of metal behind the spare. May heave to install some static wicks.;)
 
I am planning on installing a lift on my 200 and am worried about the KDSS. I've been worried even touching it not understanding how it works. I'm gathering that I can at least try to open the two valves as long at I don't move them more than 3 turns? Is the 3 turn thing just that 3 turns is not enough to actually open the internal ports and allow the hydraulic fluid to move? Can I do this with the truck on the ground, i.e. not on a lift with the tires hanging?
 
kcjaz said:
I am planning on installing a lift on my 200 and am worried about the KDSS. I've been worried even touching it not understanding how it works. I'm gathering that I can at least try to open the two valves as long at I don't move them more than 3 turns? Is the 3 turn thing just that 3 turns is not enough to actually open the internal ports and allow the hydraulic fluid to move? Can I do this with the truck on the ground, i.e. not on a lift with the tires hanging?
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Smart to try the Allen screws before you dissemble suspension for the lift! Yes, you can work on the valves with the hex key, some PB Blaster or your choice of penetrating oil, and the appropriate very heavy duty cuss words for anything up to 3 full turns. Keep track and don’t go beyond 3. If you get them both open that far, the internal valves are open and the system can equilibrate after the suspension work. Good luck.
 
Thanks, can I do this way before the suspension work? I'd like to go try this today in my garage, truck on the floor and I'm several months away from the actual lift.
 
kcjaz said:
Thanks, can I do this way before the suspension work? I'd like to go try this today in my garage, truck on the floor and I'm several months away from the actual lift.
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As long as they turn at all, you're fine. So even just cracking the valve a tiny bit so you know they turn but not open all 3 turns (as if to open the actual valve) is enough to know you're ok to install the lift. If it's rusty, make sure to clean the hex socket on the valve so your bit/key can get full contact. Spray on some PB Blaster, give the valve a little tap with a wrench to break any rusty stiction, and pray for the best. Since you're in KS, it might be ok. I bought my 200 from a deler in KCMO and the valves only had slight surface rust and popped free without much issue.
 
Yes, start early on working on the shutter valves. wire brush, some type of rust penetrating fluid, if you have time squirt it every other day till next weekend. brush again, more fluid, and the tap before trying to turn. If your car came from the southwest don't worry about it.
 
kcjaz said:
I am planning on installing a lift on my 200 and am worried about the KDSS. I've been worried even touching it not understanding how it works. I'm gathering that I can at least try to open the two valves as long at I don't move them more than 3 turns? Is the 3 turn thing just that 3 turns is not enough to actually open the internal ports and allow the hydraulic fluid to move? Can I do this with the truck on the ground, i.e. not on a lift with the tires hanging?
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2.5 turns will work as well. I used 2.5 turns out on both valves when I did my Radflo suspension. The truck had about 3/4" lean to the driver side on factory suspension. It sits perfectly flat now.
 
Looking at the shroud around the valves, there is a wire mounted to it. What is this wire for?
 
Somewhere in the forum it's mentioned that is probably for lights on the Lexus model: which would make sense.
 
kcjaz said:
I am planning on installing a lift on my 200 and am worried about the KDSS. I've been worried even touching it not understanding how it works. I'm gathering that I can at least try to open the two valves as long at I don't move them more than 3 turns? Is the 3 turn thing just that 3 turns is not enough to actually open the internal ports and allow the hydraulic fluid to move? Can I do this with the truck on the ground, i.e. not on a lift with the tires hanging?
Click to expand...

You are well advised to be cautious about the KDSS shutter valves. The KDSS hydraulic system is under very high pressure (700psi?) and it is absolutely no bueno if you loosen the shutter valves too much - hydraulic fluid will escape and it can only be made right at a dealer with a high pressure pump and knowledge of the correct procedure.

Knowledge is your friend. Here's what the valves look like inside:

KDSS_Valve_10FEB16_zps2zef7kwu.jpg


For your purposes, you want to back the shutter valves out 2 - 3.5mm - about 3 turns. This allows the hydraulic fluid to flow without restriction throughout the KDSS, but not escape the system.

The idea is that you want to open/close these valves when the truck is level. On a lift with tires hanging is level. On the ground, on a flat surface with the truck loaded per spec (no cargo, 1/2 tank of gas, no passengers, etc.) is also level.

HTH
 
Thanks for the replies. My valve unit doesn't look too bad. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and wire brushed it and got the hex holes cleaned out so I could get the 5mm hex in the holes. Got one to break loose but the other won't budge. Bent my hex key. Will try to find a more solid T-handled one and maybe use a pipe cheater. Anyone got any tips? I assume a torch is a really bad idea but confess I looked it and thought hmm....
 
go slow: more fluid: tap with hammer with hex drive inserted. torch: I've used a solder gun on other things, but it takes longer.
 
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