KDSS Max Relocation Kit + End link LCA skids (6 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

I opened my KDSS valves and installed the max bracket today. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the KDSS ram forward to align the holes in the sway bar bracket. Otherwise just using a jack and doing one side at a time worked fine for me. My end links are basically vertical now.

I managed to strip one of the aluminum bracket threads. My fault, I had my clicks torque wrench set 15# too high… 25x3 =75, not 60. I ended up tapping a 1/2-13 hole because that’s all Ace had in large grade 10.9 flanged bolts. The bolt was about 15mm too long so I drilled a hole in the frame so that bolt sticks up into the frame. Not my first choice but I wasn’t excited to try and source the exact bolt I’d need online. It’s all assembled nice and snug now and properly torqued.

Now what to do with my old 1” KDSS relo brackets…

 

[rlynch356]

Based on this conversation with Geoff, I had the bracket destructively tested today (3 separate tests).

Material: Aluminium 6061
Max Hold strength: 115Ft-lbs
Failure: 120Ft-lbs - Threads pulled out..

The spec'd torque is 64Ft-lbs (all torque specs are factory Toyota, actually)

 

[linuxgod]

Based on this conversation with Geoff, I had the bracket destructively tested today (3 separate tests).

Material: Aluminium 6061
Max Hold strength: 115Ft-lbs
Failure: 120Ft-lbs - Threads pulled out..

The spec'd torque is 64Ft-lbs (all torque specs are factory Toyota, actually)

Yeah I wasn’t thinking and spun my click torque wrench 3 times. It’s marked 0/5/10/15/20 so 3 times was 75, rather than the 60 I mentally computed. Then I set it at +4 so I thought I was going 64 but was actually going 79… plus whatever margin of error my wrench has.

 

[dragonbyu]

Geoff Saves

 

[linuxgod]

ok one super annoying thing I noticed today when just double checking the bolts, my sway bar bushings are actually on backwards. I slid mine but didn’t remove them, so I’m assuming the dealer put them on backwards when they removed my sway bar to replace my steering rack.

Anyone know what the impact is of these being reversed? The stubby end is facing out, not in like the FSM says. I’m trying to figure out the performance implications and/or risk because I really don’t feel like removing these again

 

[rlynch356]

Production update:
I will be shipping current back orders on Monday the 21st -

I am starting production on the next larger batch in parallel, since I only have a few more in this batch.

I plan on doing larger batches from here on out.

 

[rlynch356]

I have 2 available for Shipment Monday the 21st..

20 more are in production for the next batch.

 

[rlynch356]

Backorders should be shipped the week of Aug 25th.. and i will have stock on hand.

Also started carrying some other brands, such as Hest, Ignik, Goose gear, Victron Energy, Vision X, and Proeagle jacks and some other brands coming soon..

I am offering 10% off on partner brands for August.. But i can get quite a lot of major brand stuff via a distributor I have, so let me know, happy to see what we can do..

I am only offering brands i use on my site (or have and will again... in the case of Vision X.. my last set of 9" light cannons was part of the deal for my 110 defender.. those had some serious punch!)

I'll do blog posts on what i use and how, and am trying to get a Youtube channel together for Installation & product videos, and well the adventures too, which are the real drivers behind all this..

I also promise to do the instructions for the KDSS Max Kit with Pictures.

(also i am going to see what 17x37"s fit like... no promises there though... for now........)


Go out and explore somewhere!!

 

[rlynch356]

Backorders will ship 8/25/25 - stock will be on hand for immediate shipment until I'm sold out.

 

[linuxgod]

Figured I’d update the group since I was one of the early folks doing end links outside the cradle, and might’ve been the first suggesting an extended KDSS relo kit would improve that setup.

I’m happy with my KDSS max bracket setup. I didn’t use the LCA armor or end link relo as I already had the latter working. After mounting my end links outside the cradle previously (50k+ ago) I already wasn’t rubbing but my sway bar end links were still tweaked and I assume we’re getting more wear than normal. The angle looks good now and I didn’t have any issues with sway bar binding or KDSS (or skid plate) contact on my setup when I was at COTRockies.

 

[Heckraiser]

This is kind of a longshot question, but here goes:

I'm spitballing front swaybar disconnect options for LX570 (which does not have KDSS, but a plain-old sway bar mounted to the frame in the same location). Based on eyeballs or actual measurements, do you think a 1.5" max kit would move the swaybar far enough forward that the ends of the bar could swing up and clear the tie rods when disconnected? I'm envisioning using the max relocation kit, quick disconnect endlinks and swinging the sway bar up into the front bumper area and securing it with a bracket and pin so that it's out of the way and not knocking into anything when disconnected (similar to the LCP 80-series sway disconnects, if you're familiar with those). Not sure if this kit would move the bar far enough forward that it could clear the tie rods.

 

[linuxgod]

This is kind of a longshot question, but here goes:

I'm spitballing front swaybar disconnect options for LX570 (which does not have KDSS, but a plain-old sway bar mounted to the frame in the same location). Based on eyeballs or actual measurements, do you think a 1.5" max kit would move the swaybar far enough forward that the ends of the bar could swing up and clear the tie rods when disconnected? I'm envisioning using the max relocation kit, quick disconnect endlinks and swinging the sway bar up into the front bumper area and securing it with a bracket and pin so that it's out of the way and not knocking into anything when disconnected (similar to the LCP 80-series sway disconnects, if you're familiar with those). Not sure if this kit would move the bar far enough forward that it could clear the tie rods.

I can’t answer your question directly, but I can confirm it’ll move the whole sway bar setup including the end links forward 1.5”, so grab a tape measure…

 

[TeCKis300]

This is kind of a longshot question, but here goes:

I'm spitballing front swaybar disconnect options for LX570 (which does not have KDSS, but a plain-old sway bar mounted to the frame in the same location). Based on eyeballs or actual measurements, do you think a 1.5" max kit would move the swaybar far enough forward that the ends of the bar could swing up and clear the tie rods when disconnected? I'm envisioning using the max relocation kit, quick disconnect endlinks and swinging the sway bar up into the front bumper area and securing it with a bracket and pin so that it's out of the way and not knocking into anything when disconnected (similar to the LCP 80-series sway disconnects, if you're familiar with those). Not sure if this kit would move the bar far enough forward that it could clear the tie rods.

It's not exactly true that the LX570 does not have KDSS. AHC fundamentally is a hydraulic cross linking system, technology that also underpins KDSS. Both licensed from Tenneco's Inc's suspension technology portfolio. Roll control and roll resistance is more than just sways and includes spring, shocks, and geometry. In AHCs case, it acts upon the hydraulic shocks instead of the sway bar to the same effect, while also adding active control and a bunch of other capabilities.

That aside, it still would be interesting to chase a disconnect option to get even more slinky. You could also look to soften the sway bars. I tried softening the sway bar bushings on the frame which definitely worked but found that cornering performance suffered with less front axle bite and sharpness (especially with 37s).

 

[TeCKis300]

This is kind of a longshot question, but here goes:

I'm spitballing front swaybar disconnect options for LX570 (which does not have KDSS, but a plain-old sway bar mounted to the frame in the same location). Based on eyeballs or actual measurements, do you think a 1.5" max kit would move the swaybar far enough forward that the ends of the bar could swing up and clear the tie rods when disconnected? I'm envisioning using the max relocation kit, quick disconnect endlinks and swinging the sway bar up into the front bumper area and securing it with a bracket and pin so that it's out of the way and not knocking into anything when disconnected (similar to the LCP 80-series sway disconnects, if you're familiar with those). Not sure if this kit would move the bar far enough forward that it could clear the tie rods.

Forgot to mention. I did also play with a relocation kit. I think what you're proposing is doable. Also consider the relocation kit can change the motion ratio effectively softening the front sway bar.

 

[Mdej3]

Any chance on just doing a bracket to bring that sway bar link forward? I did the Tundra swap, have all the components just didn't wanted to cut and weld the new OEM Tundra LCA. Angle is not "bad" but running them outside the cup will be more beneficial and less stress on components..

 

[Boston Mangler]

Speaking of swaybar thing and disconnects

I’m intrigued by the idea of the pneumatic swaybar links that are starting to pop up more here and there (nothing for us yet though)

Air down when Offroad for more give, air up on pavement for firmer ride

In theory sounds great, in reality, I dunno

Link to one variant I’ve seen (again, not for us, just for info):

APEX airLYNX - Toyota Sway Bar Disconnect (Pair) - Pivotal Motorsports

**Back in Stock Mid May 2025** With APEX Designs Toyota airLYNX, Now you have the ability to tune how much force your sway bar is applying by simply - Pivotal Motorsports

pivotalmotorsports.com

 

[rlynch356]

Couple of answers.. Or Observations from other customers.

This is kind of a longshot question, but here goes:

I'm spitballing front swaybar disconnect options for LX570 (which does not have KDSS, but a plain-old sway bar mounted to the frame in the same location). Based on eyeballs or actual measurements, do you think a 1.5" max kit would move the swaybar far enough forward that the ends of the bar could swing up and clear the tie rods when disconnected? I'm envisioning using the max relocation kit, quick disconnect endlinks and swinging the sway bar up into the front bumper area and securing it with a bracket and pin so that it's out of the way and not knocking into anything when disconnected (similar to the LCP 80-series sway disconnects, if you're familiar with those). Not sure if this kit would move the bar far enough forward that it could clear the tie rods.

The full kit has been installed on a Non-KDSS 200 series in Japan, which as I understand it uses the all the same mounts for a regular Anti-Roll bar as the KDSS version. He did end up removing the LCA skids, since he decided to run a 12.5" tire on (imported to Japan) Rock warriors (ET50) with no lift. RW's were never sold in Japan apparently, but I cannot confirm that. KDSS only came on the top versions of the 200 series.

So I know the system will work on NON-KDSS equipped LC200 trucks which are more common world wide.

So i see no real reason why it would not work both from a frame bracket and an LCA skid perspective.

*I am running a RW with a 285/75-17 tire and no spacer right now for most of my daily/overland uses purely from a range perspective, It clears but I still recommend less of an offset for the wheel. ~ET35 or less


For this one..

Any chance on just doing a bracket to bring that sway bar link forward? I did the Tundra swap, have all the components just didn't wanted to cut and weld the new OEM Tundra LCA. Angle is not "bad" but running them outside the cup will be more beneficial and less stress on components..

I have spoken to several people and it "Looks" like the tundra LCA uses the same bolt holes as the the 200/LX LCA.. I cannot confirm that yet but I was going to buy a set of Tundra LCA's and see if that plays out or if changes would be needed (if they are needed I would probably not move forward with it at this point unless there is a larger demand for it.. it's already a Niche product on a Niche Truck

the bracket will work on it's own as well.. the only cavat is the I am not selling the spacer separately, since this is a milled component as well.
there are options out there that you can make work, @linuxgod thread on it has all the parts he used.

Figured I’d update the group since I was one of the early folks doing end links outside the cradle, and might’ve been the first suggesting an extended KDSS relo kit would improve that setup.

I’m happy with my KDSS max bracket setup. I didn’t use the LCA armor or end link relo as I already had the latter working. After mounting my end links outside the cradle previously (50k+ ago) I already wasn’t rubbing but my sway bar end links were still tweaked and I assume we’re getting more wear than normal. The angle looks good now and I didn’t have any issues with sway bar binding or KDSS (or skid plate) contact on my setup when I was at COTRockies.

@linuxgod yes you are exactly right, I took your suggestion and ran with it, Thank you

I'm glad to hear everything is working out with your setup, and it worked as designed at COTRockies !