KDSS Max Relocation Kit + End link LCA skids (3 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

I opened my KDSS valves and installed the max bracket today. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the KDSS ram forward to align the holes in the sway bar bracket. Otherwise just using a jack and doing one side at a time worked fine for me. My end links are basically vertical now.

I managed to strip one of the aluminum bracket threads. My fault, I had my clicks torque wrench set 15# too high… 25x3 =75, not 60. I ended up tapping a 1/2-13 hole because that’s all Ace had in large grade 10.9 flanged bolts. The bolt was about 15mm too long so I drilled a hole in the frame so that bolt sticks up into the frame. Not my first choice but I wasn’t excited to try and source the exact bolt I’d need online. It’s all assembled nice and snug now and properly torqued.

Now what to do with my old 1” KDSS relo brackets…

 

[rlynch356]

Based on this conversation with Geoff, I had the bracket destructively tested today (3 separate tests).

Material: Aluminium 6061
Max Hold strength: 115Ft-lbs
Failure: 120Ft-lbs - Threads pulled out..

The spec'd torque is 64Ft-lbs (all torque specs are factory Toyota, actually)

 

[linuxgod]

Based on this conversation with Geoff, I had the bracket destructively tested today (3 separate tests).

Material: Aluminium 6061
Max Hold strength: 115Ft-lbs
Failure: 120Ft-lbs - Threads pulled out..

The spec'd torque is 64Ft-lbs (all torque specs are factory Toyota, actually)

Yeah I wasn’t thinking and spun my click torque wrench 3 times. It’s marked 0/5/10/15/20 so 3 times was 75, rather than the 60 I mentally computed. Then I set it at +4 so I thought I was going 64 but was actually going 79… plus whatever margin of error my wrench has.

 

[dragonbyu]

Geoff Saves

 

[linuxgod]

ok one super annoying thing I noticed today when just double checking the bolts, my sway bar bushings are actually on backwards. I slid mine but didn’t remove them, so I’m assuming the dealer put them on backwards when they removed my sway bar to replace my steering rack.

Anyone know what the impact is of these being reversed? The stubby end is facing out, not in like the FSM says. I’m trying to figure out the performance implications and/or risk because I really don’t feel like removing these again

 

[rlynch356]

Production update:
I will be shipping current back orders on Monday the 21st -

I am starting production on the next larger batch in parallel, since I only have a few more in this batch.

I plan on doing larger batches from here on out.

 

[rlynch356]

I have 2 available for Shipment Monday the 21st..

20 more are in production for the next batch.

 

[rlynch356]

Backorders should be shipped the week of Aug 25th.. and i will have stock on hand.

Also started carrying some other brands, such as Hest, Ignik, Goose gear, Victron Energy, Vision X, and Proeagle jacks and some other brands coming soon..

I am offering 10% off on partner brands for August.. But i can get quite a lot of major brand stuff via a distributor I have, so let me know, happy to see what we can do..

I am only offering brands i use on my site (or have and will again... in the case of Vision X.. my last set of 9" light cannons was part of the deal for my 110 defender.. those had some serious punch!)

I'll do blog posts on what i use and how, and am trying to get a Youtube channel together for Installation & product videos, and well the adventures too, which are the real drivers behind all this..

I also promise to do the instructions for the KDSS Max Kit with Pictures.

(also i am going to see what 17x37"s fit like... no promises there though... for now........)


Go out and explore somewhere!!

 

[rlynch356]

Backorders will ship 8/25/25 - stock will be on hand for immediate shipment until I'm sold out.

 

[linuxgod]

Figured I’d update the group since I was one of the early folks doing end links outside the cradle, and might’ve been the first suggesting an extended KDSS relo kit would improve that setup.

I’m happy with my KDSS max bracket setup. I didn’t use the LCA armor or end link relo as I already had the latter working. After mounting my end links outside the cradle previously (50k+ ago) I already wasn’t rubbing but my sway bar end links were still tweaked and I assume we’re getting more wear than normal. The angle looks good now and I didn’t have any issues with sway bar binding or KDSS (or skid plate) contact on my setup when I was at COTRockies.

 

[Heckraiser]

This is kind of a longshot question, but here goes:

I'm spitballing front swaybar disconnect options for LX570 (which does not have KDSS, but a plain-old sway bar mounted to the frame in the same location). Based on eyeballs or actual measurements, do you think a 1.5" max kit would move the swaybar far enough forward that the ends of the bar could swing up and clear the tie rods when disconnected? I'm envisioning using the max relocation kit, quick disconnect endlinks and swinging the sway bar up into the front bumper area and securing it with a bracket and pin so that it's out of the way and not knocking into anything when disconnected (similar to the LCP 80-series sway disconnects, if you're familiar with those). Not sure if this kit would move the bar far enough forward that it could clear the tie rods.

 

[linuxgod]

This is kind of a longshot question, but here goes:

I'm spitballing front swaybar disconnect options for LX570 (which does not have KDSS, but a plain-old sway bar mounted to the frame in the same location). Based on eyeballs or actual measurements, do you think a 1.5" max kit would move the swaybar far enough forward that the ends of the bar could swing up and clear the tie rods when disconnected? I'm envisioning using the max relocation kit, quick disconnect endlinks and swinging the sway bar up into the front bumper area and securing it with a bracket and pin so that it's out of the way and not knocking into anything when disconnected (similar to the LCP 80-series sway disconnects, if you're familiar with those). Not sure if this kit would move the bar far enough forward that it could clear the tie rods.

I can’t answer your question directly, but I can confirm it’ll move the whole sway bar setup including the end links forward 1.5”, so grab a tape measure…

 

[TeCKis300]

This is kind of a longshot question, but here goes:

I'm spitballing front swaybar disconnect options for LX570 (which does not have KDSS, but a plain-old sway bar mounted to the frame in the same location). Based on eyeballs or actual measurements, do you think a 1.5" max kit would move the swaybar far enough forward that the ends of the bar could swing up and clear the tie rods when disconnected? I'm envisioning using the max relocation kit, quick disconnect endlinks and swinging the sway bar up into the front bumper area and securing it with a bracket and pin so that it's out of the way and not knocking into anything when disconnected (similar to the LCP 80-series sway disconnects, if you're familiar with those). Not sure if this kit would move the bar far enough forward that it could clear the tie rods.

It's not exactly true that the LX570 does not have KDSS. AHC fundamentally is a hydraulic cross linking system, technology that also underpins KDSS. Both licensed from Tenneco's Inc's suspension technology portfolio. Roll control and roll resistance is more than just sways and includes spring, shocks, and geometry. In AHCs case, it acts upon the hydraulic shocks instead of the sway bar to the same effect, while also adding active control and a bunch of other capabilities.

That aside, it still would be interesting to chase a disconnect option to get even more slinky. You could also look to soften the sway bars. I tried softening the sway bar bushings on the frame which definitely worked but found that cornering performance suffered with less front axle bite and sharpness (especially with 37s).

 

[TeCKis300]

This is kind of a longshot question, but here goes:

I'm spitballing front swaybar disconnect options for LX570 (which does not have KDSS, but a plain-old sway bar mounted to the frame in the same location). Based on eyeballs or actual measurements, do you think a 1.5" max kit would move the swaybar far enough forward that the ends of the bar could swing up and clear the tie rods when disconnected? I'm envisioning using the max relocation kit, quick disconnect endlinks and swinging the sway bar up into the front bumper area and securing it with a bracket and pin so that it's out of the way and not knocking into anything when disconnected (similar to the LCP 80-series sway disconnects, if you're familiar with those). Not sure if this kit would move the bar far enough forward that it could clear the tie rods.

Forgot to mention. I did also play with a relocation kit. I think what you're proposing is doable. Also consider the relocation kit can change the motion ratio effectively softening the front sway bar.

 

[Mdej3]

Any chance on just doing a bracket to bring that sway bar link forward? I did the Tundra swap, have all the components just didn't wanted to cut and weld the new OEM Tundra LCA. Angle is not "bad" but running them outside the cup will be more beneficial and less stress on components..