Why aluminum for the bracket vs. steel? Is alu strong enough in this application?
KDSS Max Relocation Kit + End link LCA skids
- Thread starter rlynch356
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- kdss kdss relocation
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- Thread starter
- #42
I should have an update Monday on making a chassis bracket for the stock bumper, which I can send out free to those who bought the regular kit but have stock bumpers and do not want to trim the crash bar.
So if that is the case for you, just contact me, either here or via email.
Basically I'll end up doing 2 versions of the kit one for After market bumpers which will be +1/2" from the stock bumper version. The LCA skids will be the same along with everything else.
Then if you move to an aftermarket bumper you can use or buy the other bracket to give you that 1/2" back.
on the Alu vs Steel... Yes 5052 is strong enough for this application, as it primarily serves to retain and support the end link, and then act as a skid plate second. Aluminum also reduces unsprung weight which is important in this application.
After wheeling the 200 for about 2 years I have yet to touch the LCA on anything.
That said, depending on what happens with material costs, it may switch to steel at some point In the future.
So if that is the case for you, just contact me, either here or via email.
Basically I'll end up doing 2 versions of the kit one for After market bumpers which will be +1/2" from the stock bumper version. The LCA skids will be the same along with everything else.
Then if you move to an aftermarket bumper you can use or buy the other bracket to give you that 1/2" back.
on the Alu vs Steel... Yes 5052 is strong enough for this application, as it primarily serves to retain and support the end link, and then act as a skid plate second. Aluminum also reduces unsprung weight which is important in this application.
After wheeling the 200 for about 2 years I have yet to touch the LCA on anything.
That said, depending on what happens with material costs, it may switch to steel at some point In the future.
Thanks for the response, I was more referring to the relocation bracket not the skid. I also think the aluminum skid should be plenty rigid/strong.
But the bracket - you have a steel bolt in relatively shallow aluminum thread - I am not sure what forces are involved there, but steel would be stronger and these relocation brackets can't weigh much anyway.
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- Thread starter
- #44
The Bracket is 6061 Aluminium, same stuff they make suspension parts from.
I can have the non-extended brackets ready by Friday which means if you already bought a kit and have a stock bumper and do not want to cut I can ship it to you free on Monday.
That also means I will have a version for the stock bumper trucks, that I will test fit on a totally stock 200.
so I will end up with 2 versions of the full kit... the Max kit for the biggest tire clearance (and aftermarket bumper) and the standard kit which will fit stock bumpers.
I can have the non-extended brackets ready by Friday which means if you already bought a kit and have a stock bumper and do not want to cut I can ship it to you free on Monday.
That also means I will have a version for the stock bumper trucks, that I will test fit on a totally stock 200.
so I will end up with 2 versions of the full kit... the Max kit for the biggest tire clearance (and aftermarket bumper) and the standard kit which will fit stock bumpers.
Thank you for standing by your product and offering a solution for us stock bumper folks. Really appreciate that.
How will the endlink angle be with the 1" relocation? I know that bushing wear with the normal 1" relocation, without relocating the endlink outside of the LCA cradle, is quite poor.
Will the endlink make poor contact or bind with the outside of the LCA cradle or LCA skid, since it is now at an angle instead of straight?
Is there perhaps even an in-between maximum relocation amount that would move the endlink as close to OEM angle, while also not hitting the crash bar/bumper cover? Perhaps between 1.1" and 1.4".
- Thread starter
- #46
Of course,
The End link will still mount outside of the cradle supported by the skid plate as designed, just not as far forward, this is how I had my setup for last 6 months or so before the Max kit was finished. The End link angle is not bad at all.. But I'll post pictures but should be similar to the Linuxgod's setup as far as the end link angle..
I'm hoping to get a stock un-lifted 200 series in that I can test fit to as well.. soon.
It should not bind on the skid at all, the height is the same as the LCA cradle effectively.
On an In-between solution, I am going to see what is possible on the stock truck with the kit, the pivot moves in an Arc in relation to how far forward it is (up and forward).
The End link will still mount outside of the cradle supported by the skid plate as designed, just not as far forward, this is how I had my setup for last 6 months or so before the Max kit was finished. The End link angle is not bad at all.. But I'll post pictures but should be similar to the Linuxgod's setup as far as the end link angle..
I'm hoping to get a stock un-lifted 200 series in that I can test fit to as well.. soon.
It should not bind on the skid at all, the height is the same as the LCA cradle effectively.
On an In-between solution, I am going to see what is possible on the stock truck with the kit, the pivot moves in an Arc in relation to how far forward it is (up and forward).
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Seems like an opportunity to also sell a modified crash bar 
I’m looking forward to installing mine as soon as the weather becomes tolerable… which in Chicago might be April or might be June 
- Thread starter
- #50
New 1" Chassis Brackets are shipping Monday to those whom wanted them to fit w/o the crash bar modification seen above.
This also means that I have a kit for the stock bumper trucks (1") and a kit for the High-Clearance bumper trucks (1.5").
Both kits are the same except for the Chassis Brackets, so you can upgrade at a later date, if you want.
1" is what everyone is using for KDSS Relocation kit brackets... so pretty standard there.
A quick shot of the End link angle of the "1.5 MAX kit Bracket (the 1" will be slightly more inclined, but will not foul).. and while I don't suggest you jack the truck up on the skid plate, you can.
The second run is in production now, and I honestly have no idea what is going to happen to Aluminum cost going forward.. we shall see... just an FYI
.
This also means that I have a kit for the stock bumper trucks (1") and a kit for the High-Clearance bumper trucks (1.5").
Both kits are the same except for the Chassis Brackets, so you can upgrade at a later date, if you want.
1" is what everyone is using for KDSS Relocation kit brackets... so pretty standard there.
A quick shot of the End link angle of the "1.5 MAX kit Bracket (the 1" will be slightly more inclined, but will not foul).. and while I don't suggest you jack the truck up on the skid plate, you can.
The second run is in production now, and I honestly have no idea what is going to happen to Aluminum cost going forward.. we shall see... just an FYI
.
kcjaz
SILVER Star
Not to fixate on the strength of materials here but 6061 tensile strength is something like 4 or 5 times lower than a mild steel for the same size component. In this application, its probably still OK as long as the bolt torque for the steel bolts that get threaded into the aluminum relocation brackets is the same as the OEM bolt torque (from the FSM) used for the OEM bolts that thread into the frame holes. As long as the clamping force of the relo bracket assembly is the same as the OEM configuration, all's good. Essentially the strength of the joint is the pre-load on the bolts which is determined by the torque (really bolt stretch) of the bolts. Or, I may be completely full of....
Either way, whats the torque specs for the 4 bolts on the relo brackets and what is the OEM torque values from the FSM?
64 ft lbs
Aluminum seems to be sufficiently strong. Lots of people running them and no reports of failures. I’ve had mine 50k miles. Not that I’m not interested in the engineering calcs mind you, just noting plenty of people wheeling their setup pretty hard without any signs of issues. Then again elevators are engineered for I believe 11x the rated weight capacity but I wouldn’t load one at 10x capacity and presume it’ll be fine
- Thread starter
- #54
I use factory torque specs in my instructions.
- Starting with the Drivers Side (left) tighten the Sway bar relocation bracket bolts and then the passenger side bolts (4 - M12 in total)
- Torque to: 64Ft-lb
- Tighten the End Link to Sway bar Nuts starting with the driver’s side.
- Torque to: 103Ft-lb
- Tighten the M14 End link to LCA Bolt (1 per side).
- Torque to: 100Ft-lb
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Just a suggestion, since you are threading into aluminum. Put some Keenserts or similar into the aluminum, this will allow you to get the correct bolt torque without the risk of ripping threads out of the aluminum.
I mean if you’re paranoid about the holding strength just drill out the thread and drill the frame and put in a nutsert, then use a longer bolt
Here is my review, in similar style to the one I did for @MTKID and his body lift kit.
tl;dr: kit delivered and I have no interference with the KDSS bar and my new 295/70R18 KO3s.
My Vehicle
2019 LC200, stock bodywork
295/70R18 KO3s
NST Spec 1" Body Lift
Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers
Initial Impressions
Placed my initial order for the KDSS relocation bracket only. After some reading I determined I would like to keep the end link bolts in double shear outside of the stock carrier, so I requested to change my order to the full kit. Initial order was placed on 12/31/24 while the kit was still being manufactured and finalized. Made my order update on 1/13/25 just prior to shipping. Order was shipped the next day, and I received my order on 1/18/25. The kit was well-packed and included all parts necessary to perform the work. Instructions appeared to be missing from my kit (I may have missed the), but installation was straightforward and I just followed a couple of videos. I didn't contact @rlynch356 about the missing instructions but I'm certain he would have provided a copy if I asked.
Installation
Installation was pretty simple. To start I loosened my KDSS bolts by three (3) turns. I then proceeded to jack up the front end and set my jack stands. I first removed the KDSS mounting brackets on both sides and then proceeded to loosen and remove the end link bolts. I had to use my floor jack to take a bit of stress off the bolt so that I could remove it cleanly. I then used a pry bar to unseat the end link from the factory cradle. After this it was a matter of getting the skid plate into position and getting the new longer end link bolt and spacer aligned to mate up to the mounting threads. This was probably the most difficult part of the installation and required a bit of coaxing. After this it's just a matter of getting the skid plate aligned and all of the mounting bolts started. Once all bolts were started I went ahead and torqued them down.
NOTE: I definitely recommend checking bolt lengths as you install as there is one location on each side that requires a longer bolt (not sure how to describe the location but you'll know when your there). There are two of these longer bolts in the kit which I missed initially (they are marked with red I believe).
I then repeated this process on the other side. Finally, I installed the KDSS relocation bracket, torqued to spec, and then mounted the KDSS bar. Had some challenges maneuvering the bar into place, but a tow strap and some creative routing helped with positioning.
A final torque of everything and I was done. Or so I thought.
I went around the vehicle and did a clearance check and determined that the relocated KDSS bar was likely going to interfere with the stock crash bar. There are more details in this thread, so I won't rehash, but I had to remove the front bumper (which was easy after having done it once already for the body lift!) and trim some material from both the crash bar and the stock bumper to get everything together. Overall, not tough but definitely was in uncharted waters with the fitment modifications. Since then a new version of the kit has been released with a less aggressive relocation for folks on the stock bumper. Thanks @rlynch356!
Support
Support from @rlynch356 was great! When I encountered the issue with the front crash bar I bounced my ideas off him and we worked through it. I'm also very impressed that he took my feedback, developed a new bracket for folks running the stock bumper and sent it out free of charge to the folks who already ordered. That's very impressive and is a testament to the great community here.
Overall Impressions
The kit is great, support was fantastic, and I have plenty of clearance between my new tires and the KDSS bar (about half an inch (.5")). Couldn't be happier.
Thanks @rlynch356!
Photo of the new tires below!
tl;dr: kit delivered and I have no interference with the KDSS bar and my new 295/70R18 KO3s.
My Vehicle
2019 LC200, stock bodywork
295/70R18 KO3s
NST Spec 1" Body Lift
Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers
Initial Impressions
Placed my initial order for the KDSS relocation bracket only. After some reading I determined I would like to keep the end link bolts in double shear outside of the stock carrier, so I requested to change my order to the full kit. Initial order was placed on 12/31/24 while the kit was still being manufactured and finalized. Made my order update on 1/13/25 just prior to shipping. Order was shipped the next day, and I received my order on 1/18/25. The kit was well-packed and included all parts necessary to perform the work. Instructions appeared to be missing from my kit (I may have missed the), but installation was straightforward and I just followed a couple of videos. I didn't contact @rlynch356 about the missing instructions but I'm certain he would have provided a copy if I asked.
Installation
Installation was pretty simple. To start I loosened my KDSS bolts by three (3) turns. I then proceeded to jack up the front end and set my jack stands. I first removed the KDSS mounting brackets on both sides and then proceeded to loosen and remove the end link bolts. I had to use my floor jack to take a bit of stress off the bolt so that I could remove it cleanly. I then used a pry bar to unseat the end link from the factory cradle. After this it was a matter of getting the skid plate into position and getting the new longer end link bolt and spacer aligned to mate up to the mounting threads. This was probably the most difficult part of the installation and required a bit of coaxing. After this it's just a matter of getting the skid plate aligned and all of the mounting bolts started. Once all bolts were started I went ahead and torqued them down.
NOTE: I definitely recommend checking bolt lengths as you install as there is one location on each side that requires a longer bolt (not sure how to describe the location but you'll know when your there). There are two of these longer bolts in the kit which I missed initially (they are marked with red I believe).
I then repeated this process on the other side. Finally, I installed the KDSS relocation bracket, torqued to spec, and then mounted the KDSS bar. Had some challenges maneuvering the bar into place, but a tow strap and some creative routing helped with positioning.
A final torque of everything and I was done. Or so I thought.
I went around the vehicle and did a clearance check and determined that the relocated KDSS bar was likely going to interfere with the stock crash bar. There are more details in this thread, so I won't rehash, but I had to remove the front bumper (which was easy after having done it once already for the body lift!) and trim some material from both the crash bar and the stock bumper to get everything together. Overall, not tough but definitely was in uncharted waters with the fitment modifications. Since then a new version of the kit has been released with a less aggressive relocation for folks on the stock bumper. Thanks @rlynch356!
Support
Support from @rlynch356 was great! When I encountered the issue with the front crash bar I bounced my ideas off him and we worked through it. I'm also very impressed that he took my feedback, developed a new bracket for folks running the stock bumper and sent it out free of charge to the folks who already ordered. That's very impressive and is a testament to the great community here.
Overall Impressions
The kit is great, support was fantastic, and I have plenty of clearance between my new tires and the KDSS bar (about half an inch (.5")). Couldn't be happier.
Thanks @rlynch356!
Photo of the new tires below!
Noice. Great to see LCs fit some meaty meat meats. Got any front or rear shots?
Haha, sure -- and thanks for the inspiration. I love that you and @MTKID are really pushing the limits of what these trucks can do in stock-ish configs.
- Thread starter
- #60
@thegreenthief Thanks for the feedback.
I had thought I emailed everyone whom ordered a set of instructions but I am now including them printed out and will have them posted on the site soon (hoping to have pictures as well)..
I now have 2 separate SKU's of the full kits one for stock bumper trucks and one for aftermarket bumpers which should handle the range of installs with minimal hassle. I'll also offer the short bracket as a kit alone (as a "normal" KDSS relocation) or the longer 1.5" one as an upgrade to the Stock Bumper full Kit.
Mind if I use a picture of 2 on the website?
thanks
Rob
I had thought I emailed everyone whom ordered a set of instructions but I am now including them printed out and will have them posted on the site soon (hoping to have pictures as well)..
I now have 2 separate SKU's of the full kits one for stock bumper trucks and one for aftermarket bumpers which should handle the range of installs with minimal hassle. I'll also offer the short bracket as a kit alone (as a "normal" KDSS relocation) or the longer 1.5" one as an upgrade to the Stock Bumper full Kit.
Mind if I use a picture of 2 on the website?
thanks
Rob
