Immediately filed in the back of my Cerebral File Cabinet! Thanx!
Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter katit
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Immediately filed in the back of my Cerebral File Cabinet! Thanx!
ElHefe
SILVER Star
Just made it through this whole thread. Incredible refresh/restore. Reminds me of another epic refresh thread from a while ago. Keep it up.
- Thread starter
- #283
Just a small update. One door is finally done. I was debating multiple ways of insulating and soundproofing but ended up with simple stuff.
So, I was thinking about using "something" to cover and weather-proof door but I didn't like to use dynamat as it's hard to remove if service needed. Nothing really going to fit, very close gap between door panel and door metal.
I placed X-over for 2 speakers (not pictured) right next to the woofer. I placed another X-over for mids on door panel itself next to the mid-driver.
Mid driver just sandwiched between modified factory bracket and ML cover. Used speker tape from both sides.
And main thing - been browsing catalog and found that plastic mosture barrier got updated part and it comes with foam! Better sound deadening, factory, what else do I need? I do have Noico applied to outer door metal.
So, one door is all done after so many experiments, now just matter of doing other one.
So, I was thinking about using "something" to cover and weather-proof door but I didn't like to use dynamat as it's hard to remove if service needed. Nothing really going to fit, very close gap between door panel and door metal.
I placed X-over for 2 speakers (not pictured) right next to the woofer. I placed another X-over for mids on door panel itself next to the mid-driver.
Mid driver just sandwiched between modified factory bracket and ML cover. Used speker tape from both sides.
And main thing - been browsing catalog and found that plastic mosture barrier got updated part and it comes with foam! Better sound deadening, factory, what else do I need? I do have Noico applied to outer door metal.
So, one door is all done after so many experiments, now just matter of doing other one.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Looking good. It is a tight squeeze for the Kappa 3-way system and two crossovers, but it DOES fit with some creativity
- Thread starter
- #285
It does fit for sure. Mid - as on a picture above, just hot glue x-over next to speaker. And main x-over next to woofer, 2 holes in sheet metal. I will snap a picture of driver side if I don't forget. Infinity tweeter mounts to stock bracket and fits under grill with no mods.
I over complicated this for myself when I wanted to do more sound insulation. A lot of frustration and trial and error just to figure out that nothing will really fit
- Thread starter
- #286
Another thing is sound itself. I am not sure about it.. It just does not sound "right". And I can't explain what it is. Ordered polarity tester to make sure all wired correctly. Will also set gain using mutlimeter to make sure it's right.
However, I suspect it won't help much. And most likely I will need to look into another HU. But will see..
However, I suspect it won't help much. And most likely I will need to look into another HU. But will see..
I had this kind of experience with my PC speakers recently. They should be "good" speakers, but just didn't sound right. I played with a parametric EQ and could sort of improve it, but still sounded off. I ended up buying a measurement mic for <$100 and in about 15 minutes had a bizarre EQ that I never would have come up with on my own and it sounds fantastic. Measuring the sound allows you to see exactly where the problem is and unless you're some god of human hearing, you'll have a hell of a time figuring that out without a mic and RTA software.
If you're serious about audio, I'd strongly recommend a measurement mic. There's a large selection of free software (I use REW) and you can discover all the weird missing or boosted frequencies that are affecting your sound and with any luck, you can EQ most of it back to where it should be. One of the best <$100 I've ever spent.
Is the fitting issue the speakers or the x-overs? If the system required no external crossovers, do the speakers fit no problem?
I could not find any stats for the Kappa speakers. What is the mounting depth of those midranges?
I would agree that you need a measurement mic and Room EQ Wizard software to tune everything.
Would be awesome if you got a HU with time alignment.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
The Infinity Kappas have been known to sound a bit bright and tight. I do not enable the +3dB on the Xover (I keep the button pressed out on the Xover). You won't get resounding deep bass out of the woofers, but the "thwack" from the bass drum skin is really there. Keep in mind with a 2" mid, you're essentially running an oversized tweeter to handle the midranges.
If you want a bit more presence of the woofer, you can safely run the main Xover in 2-way mode.
With a tight, non-boomy 10-12" sub, the whole package rounds out really well to my ears. As I get older, the non-boomy subs are so much better.
If you want a bit more presence of the woofer, you can safely run the main Xover in 2-way mode.
With a tight, non-boomy 10-12" sub, the whole package rounds out really well to my ears. As I get older, the non-boomy subs are so much better.
- Thread starter
- #292
I am confused. Checked and re-checked polarity everywhere. With FH-168 tester I found that both tweeter and woofers have reverse polarity! Mids are fine... Hmm. Changed polarity on woofers - device show correct blinks. Changed polarity on tweeters - those show more green blinks but not very stable. What to trust? Device? Markings on speakers and x-over?
Another problem is mid speaker fit on driver door. See pic, can't set panel with buttons, about 1/4 interference.
Right now this is only thing I will have. front doors with 3-ways set to 3-way and without "+3db" pressed. Definitely need bass. But that is another story.
P.S. Someone asked about speaker depth. With how I cut it - it just slightly proud of factory plastic shroud on inside.
Another problem is mid speaker fit on driver door. See pic, can't set panel with buttons, about 1/4 interference.
Right now this is only thing I will have. front doors with 3-ways set to 3-way and without "+3db" pressed. Definitely need bass. But that is another story.
P.S. Someone asked about speaker depth. With how I cut it - it just slightly proud of factory plastic shroud on inside.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
OK, you ran into the same issue I did on the drivers door. If you look at the speaker closely, the "cone" is actually recessed into the lip of the speaker housing. Additionally, it is a solid dome device, so the "cone" won't really be going anywhere in terms of extension.
Due to this, I ended up shifting the position of the 2" driver slightly "forward" (toward door hinge). I managed to get one mounting screw to the "removable bracket" as a guide, and then ziptied a second speaker mounting hole to the 2nd hole in the removable bracket. The geometry was such that the area of the removable bracket which bends up a bit sat "beside" the speaker hole, such that the speaker is pushed forward towards the door hinge. Feel free to stuff some double sided tape or the included speaker foam in between the two metal surfaces. I wish I had taken a picture when I had done it for posterity. However, this will get the speaker forward enough to get the electronics panel to sit in the door panel recess.
Also, note that the woofers are probably good down to about 50-60Hz, then below that their response is crap. You can safely adjust the bass response on your head unit until you hear the distortion. As I said before, the woofers are great for the "thwap" of a bass drum, but not outstanding at something like DJ Magic Mike "Feel the Bass" (that should date me pretty well).
If you add something like this powered sub everything gets rounded out really, really well.
Due to this, I ended up shifting the position of the 2" driver slightly "forward" (toward door hinge). I managed to get one mounting screw to the "removable bracket" as a guide, and then ziptied a second speaker mounting hole to the 2nd hole in the removable bracket. The geometry was such that the area of the removable bracket which bends up a bit sat "beside" the speaker hole, such that the speaker is pushed forward towards the door hinge. Feel free to stuff some double sided tape or the included speaker foam in between the two metal surfaces. I wish I had taken a picture when I had done it for posterity. However, this will get the speaker forward enough to get the electronics panel to sit in the door panel recess.
Also, note that the woofers are probably good down to about 50-60Hz, then below that their response is crap. You can safely adjust the bass response on your head unit until you hear the distortion. As I said before, the woofers are great for the "thwap" of a bass drum, but not outstanding at something like DJ Magic Mike "Feel the Bass" (that should date me pretty well).
If you add something like this powered sub everything gets rounded out really, really well.
- Thread starter
- #294
Left it as is for now until I get to work on sub.
I decided to go as OE as possible, so there will be 6.5 sub in a stock location. I have 2 rear channels from amp that's going to drive it, already pre-wired.
Current state is:
1. Truck is out of garage, finally can do some maintenance on other cars.
2. Much quieter/nicer ride after sound insulation, hear almost no road noise. Everything I hear now should go away after I take care of bushings, etc.
3. New OE floor mats plus new leather and clean carpet make this car "new". Very nice to be inside. Clean blower motor also sounds much more quiet running AC.
Audio sounds "so-so" without a sub. I can also hear alternator whine when on mute. Very little, may just ignore it.
You did such a nice job on those seats.
Ditto. They look awesome.
Definitely crushed it on the seats.
Did you think about using that Leather on those small bits of leather on the door skins near the door pulls?
Did you think about using that Leather on those small bits of leather on the door skins near the door pulls?
- Thread starter
- #298
I could. But they are in good condition, just too much work. Also I think those doors won’t be as hard to do
Did you run power wire and speaker wire together, could be a source of whine. Also forgot what you did for headunit but that whine could be grounding of new headunit or some sort of interference at aftermarket and oem connect points.
when I see your leather I think of this song:
when I see your leather I think of this song:
- Thread starter
- #300
I feel like I will have to give up on my HU. It's ATOTO Android thing.
Yes, speaker wire for right door run together with power from a-pillar to the amp. Not a big run. Whine is very very subtle.
