Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread

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Aug 18, 2019
Messages
595
Location
St Louis, MO
I have a LC. Do you think the Leather covered Armrests/Pulls would fit? They look the same. Mine turned to Goo. The Rubber broke down fro heat.
Sorry, that I can't tell. Without trying you wouldn't know.

Speaking of GOO. This must be Toyota thing??? We bought 2007 Camry for my daughter. Cover on trunk button was literally black goo. $6 replacement, but it took 1 hour with 100 rubber gloves, can of goo gone to get switch and panel cleaned up.. Whole DASH sticky. There was recall but now it's too late and I need to figure out what to do. There is whole aftermarket with carpets, ABS covers, etc. Never seen anything like that in other cars..
 
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Google "Ferrari" and "stickies"
Sorry, that I can't tell. Without trying you wouldn't know.

Speaking of GOO. This must be Toyota thing??? We bought 2007 Camry for my daughter. Cover on trunk button was literally black goo. $6 replacement, but it took 1 hour with 100 rubber gloves, can of goo gone to get switch and panel cleaned up.. Whole DASH sticky. There was recall but now it's too late and I need to figure out what to do. There is whole aftermarket with carpets, ABS covers, etc. Never seen anything like that in other cars..

Happens on a lot of "stuff" from the 2000's. I had a whole closet of Echo shoes do it. The Navy has the same thing happen to their Bates dress shoes. Will fall apart after a certain time whether worn or not. A lot of my Echo shoes had only been worn once or twice. Didn't expect my Toyota to do it though. I got some more LC armrests but feel Iike I'll be seeing it again in the future, hence my interest in the LX leather covered ones. I suspect they will fit.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
595
Location
St Louis, MO
Slow progress with stereo install. Bits and pieces. For main door speakers I had to lower mounting base by ~5mm, also, I needed better base for mounting.
Good excuse to use lathe :) Made 2 ABS rings, then cut 11mm off the top of the factory mounts. Silicone those in - done. Screws will go through both pieces making it even more solid.

For mids - same deal. Factory metal pieces had small opening. Cut it out on a lathe, but still not done because mounting holes not quite match. May need to do some welding.

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ramangain

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the Throne
Welding? Zip ties conveniently solve your 2" speaker hole misalignment issue; maybe some JB Weld in addition or instead.

Looking good!
 
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Aug 9, 2019
Messages
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Location
Oslo, Norway
Don't do $50 mistake I did!!

Removing shift knob is tricky. I guess it's somewhere on this forum, but I thought I will figure it out. Nope.

0. Console removed
1. Remove 2 screws on back (those on threadlocker)
2. Remove button, just pull out. BIG one.
3. Then the only thing holding shifter is OD wire going through stalk.
4. Disconnect and unclip white connector on side (picture)
5. On connector itself right in a body pull white strip, should unlock contacts
6. Using small screwdriver remove to biggest contacts (blue wire)
7. Pull shifter knob and this wire out.

I though I will take apart OD button and then remove contacts. Wrong and I broke housing. So, I learned lesson and you know how to remove shifter :)

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Dear interior guru!
Did your old leather part look like the wood one with one open hole for the parts or did it have two holes? I’m afraid that I need to buy a leather cover. 99 lx470:

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Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
595
Location
St Louis, MO
Stereo install is for some reason very PITA process for me. I just don't like it. Always worry cutting wire to short, then having loops. Or not. Every mounting thing is PITA. Figured out how to mount all speakers, thats a big plus. Had to get creative with crossover mounts. Still not done with doors.
Had 3 versions of door insulation. First I thought about closing holes with 1/4 ABS. Made them (takes time), door panel won't close :(
Then I thought OK, I have Dynamat which will go under panel. Nope. Panel is very close to metal and event 1/2 Dynamat won't fit :( Not enough wire. More ordered. Just pain all over. I hate anything related wiring.

Amp install. Can't just put it under seat, right? Had to be properly secured. I do need factory plastic cover (kick panel for rear passenger). This requires custom braket.

5 hour later - all welded and painted. Should have amp wired and seat back in a truck tomorrow!

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Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Messages
988
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Nice work. I just bought a project size piece of MDF at Home Depot, cut it to rectangle shape to roughly fit the whole area under the seat (while leaving enough room on the center console side for wires to go under the piece of wood for wire management and drilled 2 holes to bolt it down the same 2 spots you did on the left.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
595
Location
St Louis, MO
Nice work. I just bought a project size piece of MDF at Home Depot, cut it to rectangle shape to roughly fit the whole area under the seat (while leaving enough room on the center console side for wires to go under the piece of wood for wire management and drilled 2 holes to bolt it down the same 2 spots you did on the left.
I mainly wanted to preserve original plastic cover, thats why.. I also had leftover metal so I figured why not use welder and make it to fit. Didn’t have to buy anything for this part at least :)

Those 2 bolts on top of mount is for factory cover. Will post more pics later on how it all works together
 
Joined
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Messages
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I mainly wanted to preserve original plastic cover, thats why.. I also had leftover metal so I figured why not use welder and make it to fit. Didn’t have to buy anything for this part at least :)

Those 2 bolts on top of mount is for factory cover. Will post more pics later on how it all works together
Nice, If I had the means to fabricate metal like you I would have. I kept the plastic cover too, I used some longer bolts and spacers from the hardware store to keep the brackets and sort of level the piece of wood to the other side. Looking forward to your finished product.
 

ramangain

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
680
Location
the Throne
Stereo install is for some reason very PITA process for me. I just don't like it. Always worry cutting wire to short, then having loops. Or not. Every mounting thing is PITA. Figured out how to mount all speakers, thats a big plus. Had to get creative with crossover mounts. Still not done with doors.
Had 3 versions of door insulation. First I thought about closing holes with 1/4 ABS. Made them (takes time), door panel won't close :(
Then I thought OK, I have Dynamat which will go under panel. Nope. Panel is very close to metal and event 1/2 Dynamat won't fit :( Not enough wire. More ordered. Just pain all over. I hate anything related wiring.

Amp install. Can't just put it under seat, right? Had to be properly secured. I do need factory plastic cover (kick panel for rear passenger). This requires custom braket.

5 hour later - all welded and painted. Should have amp wired and seat back in a truck tomorrow!

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You don't strike me as the zip tie and double sided tape type of guy. It would make the stereo install a whole lot easier!
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
595
Location
St Louis, MO
It would make the stereo install a whole lot easier!
Yep :)

Today wasn't easy either. Paint dried, let's go install mount, app and do wiring hook up.
Mount on, amp on, wiring done. Installing seat... No go! Cover is just 1/2 or so to the right (hitting seat rail). Amp in front just 1/4 too high, touching motor on a seat! Dang!

Ok, back to square one. Adding bracket to drill offset holes. Cutting out from front of the mount to let it seat lower. Paint.. Now waiting again.
But at least all wiring ready, just quick bolt-on and it will work.

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