Joining the Pig Pen!

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Thanks Pablo. Yes, I do believe it's purely manual. I've reviewed your write-up before and agree the 60-series box is a good option. In this case I was seeing what I could procure via "horse tradin'" for parts. Hard to find people willing to part with a 60 box for a reasonable price, much less for a trade!
 
Well the gear oil leak was getting to me, and with the gradual decline of Fall temps it seemed a good time to have a look at the transmission and transfer case. Not to mention I'm also leaking motor oil out of the rear main seal, so why not dig in?

This was my first time pulling a transmission. Glad I work out ;), as there were a few times when things got squirrelly and I almost dumped the tranny and xfer case off the floor jacks. It sure appears that every possible point of leakage is, indeed, leaking. They're filthy!

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Being new to pulling a transmission, I didn't realize I had to pull the tranny cover from the inside, either. It gave me a good opportunity to check out the floor... not so bad!

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I'll likely replace the pilot bearing and throw-out bearing while in here. Really looking forward to rebuilding these cases. Anyone recommend a gasket kit? Is OEM a must or can I just see what O'Reilly's has in stock?

Woot!

-Calvin
 
I'll likely replace the pilot bearing and throw-out bearing while in here. Really looking forward to rebuilding these cases. Anyone recommend a gasket kit? Is OEM a must or can I just see what O'Reilly's has in stock?



Call Kurt @cruiseroutfit and let him know what you have going on, they will get you OEM quality parts for a good price!!

The first number I call whenever I need Toyota parts.. Cruiser Outfitters
 
Thanks @J Mack

Done! I've ordered from Kurt before. A knuckle rebuild kit (for my FJ62) about a year ago. I completely agree - great service and pricing.

I ordered the gasket kits for both tranny and transfer, plus the required seals and the nuts that you have to "peen" in place to lock upon re-assembly. I also grabbed a pilot bearing and rear main seal. Just over $100 for all that, and all OEM with the exception of the tranny seals.

I really should have ordered a clutch throwout bearing too, for good measure, but the $50 price tag freaked me out in the moment.
 
Now that you’re back and settled into the new job we’re going to need updates, preferably with pictures.

Absolutely! Not a ton has happened - threw a new windshield in, dash cap, that kind of thing. It'd be drive-able but my clutch needs adjustment. I actually think the slave / release cylinder needs rebuilding. I'll post some pics ;)
 
I have a random slave cylinder in the garage, may or may not fit. I think it was on the FJ45 troopy prior to it becoming a BJ45.

Dan
 
Cool, thanks Dan. I already ordered a rebuild kit for the slave and the master as well (both were cheap and still available from Toyota). If there's something fubar the rebuild kit can't remedy I'll come knock on your door!
 
threw a new windshield in,

You know we live in the chip seal capital of the world and a windshields life expectancy is one year give or take a couple days.

Mine had two rock chips within the first month and cracked shortly after, now it’s getting sandblasted to the point I need to get it replaced. My insurance agent insist I have free windshield replacement on the pig so we’ll see if this holds true soon enough.
 
Somehow I’ve managed to keep “trickling” out odd jobs on Miss Alyssa. Since I last updated, I’ve done a few things that might be fun to share.

In preparing for the power steering upgrade, I moved the alternator from the Lower Driver’s Side to the Upper Passenger Side. I did it right (ish) and unwrapped the wiring harness back into the dash.. managing to delete the external voltage regulator in the process and upgrade to an FJ60 alternator. Getting it all wired up was a stretch for my mechanical-centric brain and I can’t tell you how excited I was to turn the engine on and see it was charging the battery. I still have a bit of harness re-wrapping to do. I prefer to use the self-fusing silicone tape for that task; it’s a total pain to wrap but has the lasting effect I’m after.

At that point the rig was drivable. I drove it just enough to realize the clutch was out of adjustment and simply wouldn’t stay IN adjustment. Suspecting a leaky cylinder, I pulled the master and slave out and rebuilt with OEM kits. Night and day difference. Lots of sludgy sludge in both, and some worn/nonexistent seals.

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Driving it around also made me realize my redneck lift job (re-arching the stock springs) is not a long-term option – the shackle angle is too vertical and the ride is super stiff. I am hoping it sags over time, but suspect I need to start saving up for a full new set of springs that are purpose-built.
 
Soon after the clutch cylinder rebuild crap, I circled back around to the power steering upgrade. I think I mentioned that I sourced a Saginaw box out of an Astro Van, meaning the Pitman arm faces forward instead of backwards. I wanted to go this route as I’d *heard* you could get it to fit behind the radiator and prevent the need to drill through the front frame cross member. My concern with the “normal” Saginaw conversion is mostly aesthetic – I’ve never liked the way FJ40’s or 55’s look with the box hanging out between the bumper and the front of the body…. Yet my concern is also mechanical – if I can avoid hogging into the cross member and reduce the length of steering shaft then why the hell not? There’s a pig owner here on MUD that said he/she has done it successfully, so I went on faith.

The box is tight but it'll fit. However there simply isn’t room to route the steering shaft correctly unless I a) angle the input shaft up or b) plan to route the shaft damn-near straight through the engine mount. Angling the input shaft up means I’d end up with a very funky swing on my Pitman arm. Check it out:

OptionA-001.jpg


So I’m going for option b) and will modify the engine mount. Thankfully, I can leave the mount in-place and reinforce it from the top, since I just need a little half-circle carved out of the underside. I’d have zero confidence in maintaining proper placement if I actually had to re-position the mount versus just reinforcing. Here is Option B:

OptionB-001.jpg


... and one from above, showing that it's snug but do-able:

OptionB-002.jpg


The galvanized conduit is my way of mocking up where the shaft will go. I plan to use a Flaming River (or similar) Saginaw-to-D Shaft joint, a section of D-shaft through a bearing, another D-to-D joint, then a final D-to-Stock Joint at the existing steering shaft. Lots of words… I’ll post pics as it develops.

As far as the pump itself, these early 2F engines don’t have many unused/unnecessary mounting points. After doing some research I bought a mounting bracket from Georg at Valley Hybrids that will come off the driver’s side front engine mount (near the block), away from anything I’m hacking on. I test fit the pump and all looks good. Well, almost. It looks like the middle of the pump’s pulley will smash on the fan blades. I need to figure that out.

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Now… I’m not a great welder. EDIT: I’m barely a welder at all. I’ll be leaning on some expertise from fellow local gearheads to help. I toyed with the idea of trying to weld in the Saginaw box adapter plates and my engine-mount reinforcement without pulling the engine out of the way. But some mental alarms went off and I thought back to all the projects I made WAY more difficult by being afraid to move s*** out of the way (my first valve adjustment on my FJ62 is a great example, fighting with the spaghetti bowl of air/vacuum lines while trying to remove and reinstall the valve cover). So I drained the engine and unhooked everything and am prepared to pull it out of the way. I’ll probably use the time with the engine out to clean up the engine bay, removing unnecessary holes and brackets, perhaps spray on some firewall insulation, that sort of thing. It’s a good move.

With the engine out, my plan is to “sleeve” the frame for reinforcement purposes, similar to what others have done. I’ll probably fab up my own mounting plate considering this setup is somewhat unique vs. buying an off the shelf one from Advanced Adapters or Cruiser Outfitters. After all, it’s just a metal plate with some holes drilled and standoff spacers.
 
I also started digging in on some rust repair. My plan at this point is to slow down the rust and make sure I don’t lose any major panels. Once Bob came out of retirement I bought a set of wheel-well panels for the gaping rust holes… I’ll tackle those later. First up was prepping the rain gutter (drip rails) for new caulk, while also beginning to address some of the random rust puddles on the body. The doors had rust in the center of each, and there were several large areas on the hood that I suspect started as large dents or chips. I think I can do an awful lot with a Rattle Can. I read on the 40's forum that the beige (off white) top half - Cygnus White - is easily and cheaply replicated using Dupli-Color's Whimbledon-White. Neat.


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I must say – the more I dig into the body, the more pleased I am with the purchase. Knowing these 55’s are infamous for rusting to dust, this ol girl is in pretty good shape. My process for the rust has been to use a flap disc or coating removal disc then to treat with Naval Jelly or Rust Mort, depending on the surface. Naval Jelly stays put on a vertical surface, Rust Mort is super watery and seems relevant for the gutters. After a few applications I clean off the remnants, hit it with some self-etching Primer from Dupli-Color, then begin the slow process of layering high-build sand-able primer and feathering out the edges.

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I’ve been doing all this between work trips and (most importantly) family time. In writing all of this out, I realize I’ve gotten quite a bit accomplished despite travelling almost every week from June 2017 through February 2018. Work is theoretically going to back off so I’m hoping the progress will ramp back up. Even if it doesn’t, I’m absolutely loving the project.
 
Looks good jealous of the power steering upgrade. I would take just a good rebuilt manual box with no slop like the one I have.
 
Your box looks way too far forward in these pictures.

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Your box looks way too far forward in these pictures.

optionb-001-jpg.1674570

Yes, definitely further forward than a Toyota box, yet closer than a normal Saginaw with the Pitman pointing backwards. Are you concerned, is there something I'm missing? The angle of the drag link, the swing of the arms... All looks good to me.
 
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Ideally you want the drag link and tie rod reasonably parallel, we don’t live in a perfect world so it’s not always possible to get it correct but closer is better than not.

Just looking at the photos you posted it looks like there is lots of room for improvement. It’s conceivable I’m not seeing the whole picture.
 

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