Joining the Cruiser Club with my new FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Tried a purchased brake-light switch on Sandy but found it was tad too long and just not a prefect fit. Finally decided to go back to fixing the original switch and putting it back in place. Now the brake lights are working! I got a some soldering, shrink wrap and air heater practice for the first time! Very fun.

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Good job there on the first solder and heat shrink!!! This adds to your now wicked electrical wiring diagram sleuthing skills. Switch works great.

FYI we bought an aftermarket brake switch from CCOT for the same model year. Turns out the switch housing is too long and prevents you from reseating it in the brake pedal bucket access hole behind the instrument cluster. CCOT switch looked like OEM but did not work.

Buyer beware.

Hence this is why @cowgirl40 soldered the old switch using new connector pins.
 
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Your neck deep in the pool with the rest of us now. No turning back.
 
On the way to taking Sandy for an inspection we discovers she had fuel pump and hose problem. So in the process of removing the fuel tank we realized floor was rusting under the Rhino Liner. So we decided to strip it back and treat the areas. Anyone here know what to do with this “tar like” coating on the drivers side under the Rhino Liner? @wngrog your name was mentioned as someone who might have some input?

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If you can get to the bare metal and if you insist on painting it back then use Rust Converter. Get the rust stopped as best you can before covering it back up.

If you can keep the metal exposed I like soaking rusted metal in Fluid Film.
 
It was a family affair working on Sandy this afternoon removing the rhino liner. Areas where the liner was think came out in big chunks but still struggling with the areas where the coating was light.

Used some dry ice on the factory tar under the pedals on the drivers side. Let it sit for fifteen minutes and it should come out In chunks.

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It has been a while. We consolidated and purchased a new home that has a barn in the back yard (documented here A journey with my boys- The Elf Barn as I call it. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-journey-with-my-boys-the-elf-barn-as-i-call-it.1041583/). Took a while to get settled in. Finally getting to things. We got Sandy into the barn to get a new electric fan installed. She was running a tad warm. We tried to put an extension to get the mechanical fan closer but it was not getting better. She had a champion radiator so we got a 3500 CFM Spal fan and shroud. @cowgirl40 got at getting the old fan out and removed radiator and support.

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We then assembled the fan on the radiator and did a test fit. Fan motor was touching the pulley that housed the mechanical fan. We had to move the radiator forward. We slotted the lower radiator support brackets and made some adjustments and to make it fit. @SipLife got to use a die grinder carbide tip. It took a while to tame it. Finally he got the handle on it.

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Finished the day with fitting it and routing initial fan relay wiring. We also threaded in the temperature switch to the intake and relocated the existing the temperature sensor to the side of the block.

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We also got rid of the hideous front bumper/ tow bar and put in a new OEM bumper.

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@cowgirl40 and @SipLife finished the wiring this evening. Went to fire it up and the water pump pulley seemed frozen. Up on closer inspection the shorter bolts we used for the pulley were still too long and was contacting the water pump housing. :doh:!!!

Have to make a trip to Ace to get some shorter bolts.

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