Builds Joined the 40 club! 1970 FJ40 Frame off build...

[65swb45]

Standard 307 bearing, readily available. Also have the boot retainers.

 

[kcisland]

Thanks @Mark!

I am trying to put together a list to make the order/shipping worth while along with the Slave push rod.

I am still debating which way to go with the 3 on the tree vs getting a floor shift from you. Leaning toward the steering shift if either you have a tight set of linkages around or if they are available new? Have anything for me?

I will call you as soon as I get a complete list of other goodies I need.

Keith

 

[65swb45]

Thanks @Mark!

I am trying to put together a list to make the order/shipping worth while along with the Slave push rod.

I am still debating which way to go with the 3 on the tree vs getting a floor shift from you. Leaning toward the steering shift if either you have a tight set of linkages around or if they are available new? Have anything for me?

I will call you as soon as I get a complete list of other goodies I need.

Keith

I have to dig into the dark recesses of the shop today to put together some of those components for @crustycruise , so I will have a pretty good idea. What specific components are you looking for?

 

[kcisland]

Well I think that the rods are all salvageable, it's just all the ball ends are stripped. I see that they are still available new. I will give you a holler soon.

 

[hooter]

Also got the intake and exhaust manifolds cleaned up

looks great. questions....


any tricks to getting the intake and exhaust apart? my bolts on the exhaust into the intake wont budge, MAP gas no help. OA torch?


Also what is your plan for the exhaust flapper and counter weight setup?

hOOter

 

[kcisland]

looks great. questions....


any tricks to getting the intake and exhaust apart? my bolts on the exhaust into the intake wont budge, MAP gas no help. OA torch?


Also what is your plan for the exhaust flapper and counter weight setup?

hOOter

My manifold bolts came apart OK with just PB Blaster soaking for a couple of days. I did have to get another set from Marks Offroad because the PO snapped off the exhaust ears on the bottom. That chain held on the exhaust pipe.

I chose to eliminate the heat riser flap rather than rebuild, risk it getting stuck, and cracking the intake due to overheating.

In post #197 with the painted manifolds you will see the heat riser block off plate to the right from Cruiser Outfitters (Kurt)
to protect the underside of the intake from too much heat.

They say it may effect cold weather starts so you will have to decided what is best for your condition.

I will tap for a couple of bolts where the rod went through.

Just FYI though - the front single bolt is a through bolt from the aluminum intake into the STEEL. The back two bolts secure the steel manifold into the ALUMINUM and strip easy! Be careful removing those and re-installing.

 

[hooter]

The back two bolts secure the steel manifold bolts into ALUMINUM and strip easy! Be careful removing those and re-installing.

yes, these be my problem. VERY stubborn.

in your exhaust manifold, what are you using to plug the flapper shaft holes?

 

[kcisland]

yes, these be my problem. VERY stubborn.

in your exhaust manifold, what are you using to plug the flapper shaft holes?

I will drill and tap for a 10mm bolt and lock washer.

 

[kcisland]

I have to dig into the dark recesses of the shop today to put together some of those components for @crustycruise , so I will have a pretty good idea. What specific components are you looking for?

@Mark,

Went through the shift linkage last night and I think with the available rod ends most will be okay. The only part I would need would be the arm with FIXED ball ends circled in red.

If you have one of these laying around with good looking threaded ends, add it to my shopping list.

Keith

 

[kcisland]

What's for dinner?

BBQ Manifolds!...Roasted for two hours per POR's instructions at 400 degrees. My BBQ is an indirect heat/infrared, plus I placed it on some steel so it created an oven atmosphere as opposed to direct flame.

I was worried about how it would turn out but all of the prep work paid off. (clean, de-grease, sandblast, wipe down with MEK, warm paint cans, multiple thin coats...) Results were a hard candy coating that doesn't scratch. We will see how it holds up to "real life" application.

Hopefully I can get them installed this weekend and start working on the carb install. It all depends on how I feel about the fit to the block and if I will need to machine the mating surface.

 

[kcisland]

I am no where near ready for it but looking ahead...I got my re-furbished wiring harness back from @Coolerman

It is a piece of artwork and I can't wait to get to that point in the build.

Before:

After including a new rear wiring harness.

Thanks Coolerman!

 

[kcisland]

I wanted to do some test fitting of the cooling system so it started with some custom shim pads. I know OEM are still available but I weighed all of the options/concerns about water absorption and rust, and decided to go homemade rubber:

The welded on studs were toasted in the frame so new CAD hardware was used:

Tapped/cleaned holes for radiator/shroud and bar:

No shroud came with my 40 when I purchased it so I picked one up from @65swb45 (Mark's Offroad). A little sandblasting and CAD work for some bling...

... and everything seems to fit fine. Later on while laying in bed I remembered...oh yeah I forgot the spacer! There was about 2" of clearance from the fan to the radiator so the spacer should fit fine.

The shroud on the passenger side aligned fine with the three holes but the drivers side had a four hole pattern that didn't align with my radiator frame. I will have to drill and tap for these as I am not going to change out this shroud after getting it CAD plated.

 

[kcisland]

I was finally able to find a spare 3 speed transmission locally that had a better 1st gear than mine...

So with that I finally got around to putting my transmission together. New bearings...

It always amazes me how amazing parts can look after 50 years. Good engineering and good lubrication.

Brass bushings and synchro's looked good.

Brad Penn transmission oil to help things go together...

 

[kcisland]

Does it matter which way the new gasket washer goes? There is an asymmetrical shape to it, completely flat on one side and ridged on the other...

Can someone explain the mechanical function of this bolt?

New seals...

Back together...Hopefully I can get to the Transfer Case this weekend!

 

[cruiserkreutz]

Any updates?

 

[kcisland]

Any updates?

Hey cruiserkreutz!

Nothing too earth shattering…

Played all summer and just now getting back into the build now that it’s colder outside and getting darker earlier. Things are taking a lot longer than I thought but the drive is still there, and I am excited to get to an initial startup.

Carefully sanded and refinished the carb spacer and installed with new gaskets…

Rebuilt carb from Marks Offroad…

 

[kcisland]

Currently putting Transfer case back together and cleaning up drivelines…

Before...

After...

 

[kcisland]

Working on the rig has been all over the place jumping from one project to another depending on waiting for parts I needed. Finally got the transfer in and working on the PTO gear box until I forgot the PTO gaskets...

Rebuilt Parking Brake:

Transfer ready with new Parking Brake cable:

PTO gear/spacer:

Used the engine hoist to save my back:

Refurbishing the PTO gearbox:

 

[kcisland]

When I pulled out the drive lines back in spring they were not in phase! I did find the marker arrows though.

Used the socket method to remove and install new U-joints:

A little wire brushing in prep for primer:

Primed for now until I send them in for balancing:

Pre-greasing:

Cont...

 

[kcisland]

Greased splines:

Ready to send in for balancing:

Balanced and painted. The place I took them to painted them, but I would have preferred to epoxy paint them myself. Oh well, we will see if my OCD kicks in and I redo them:

Just set in place for now. I will have to wait until it is fully loaded with body, winch, spare tire...and then will re-address the axle shim issue. As it stands now with no load the differential is pointed way too high and the flanges are not parallel.

Front: