Izzy's amateur hour

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Guess where I went today! Great place to visit and watch a real expert work on the truck, he makes it look easy. Hardline Fabrication, Stan, awesome job. Now my truck actually stays on the lane I want it to and the connection to the steering wheel is direct and no longer telegraphed in morse code. Thanks Stan!

image.webp
image.webp
image.webp
 
I got a a couple of things going after Hurricane Creek, first was a vibration that comes and goes, no discernible pattern to it. Could be braking, could be driving, could be at 20 mph, could be 45 mph. It is intermittent.
Then after a 20 mile highway drive yesterday, smelled this burning smell from under truck, nailed it down to what seem to be the DS rear wheel well, but it dissipated quickly.

So today drove the truck to work and brought my infrared thermometer, zero vibration this time, but did measured all calipers temps hovering around 140-130F, however the DS rear was close to 280-300F. Slight whiff of the burning smell, thinking caliper is not retracting cylinder. This may be the reason for vibration.

May go for rebuild kit or new caliper. Any experience with Raybestos calipers? I have read other threads with good reviews on them. Thanks
 
I got a a couple of things going after Hurricane Creek, first was a vibration that comes and goes, no discernible pattern to it. Could be braking, could be driving, could be at 20 mph, could be 45 mph. It is intermittent.
Then after a 20 mile highway drive yesterday, smelled this burning smell from under truck, nailed it down to what seem to be the DS rear wheel well, but it dissipated quickly.

So today drove the truck to work and brought my infrared thermometer, zero vibration this time, but did measured all calipers temps hovering around 140-130F, however the DS rear was close to 280-300F. Slight whiff of the burning smell, thinking caliper is not retracting cylinder. This may be the reason for vibration.

May go for rebuild kit or new caliper. Any experience with Raybestos calipers? I have read other threads with good reviews on them. Thanks
I used reman units from auto zone on the rear of mine. They've been working well. The brake lines from there are not correct, though; I returned them and bought OEM. You should price the OEM calipers at Scott Clark (ask for Jeff in Parts and mention the ONSC discount) and compare prices to aftermarket.

Is there any chance that your E-brake was stuck on on that side?
 
I thought e-brake too, I rebuilt them recently and there is possibility of "izzynator effect" (Where I can screw up simple repairs), so I measured the temp around the disk and hub, and the only place it was really high was at the caliper. So thinking it was not the e-brake.

Having rebuilt calipers on other cars, it is not a big job. Not sure about these Yota ones. And the Napa rebuilt caliper is $55, based on other threads they use OEM parts, but don't really know. Didn't think about Scott Clark, will stop on my way home to price them out and get rebuild kit.
 
Installed the NAPA caliper, easy job without issues. Ran around and the rear caliper temps are back to 130F. Good looking unit, may replace other side later, not bad for $55. Came with all the hardware and rubbers, used a well padded vice grip to pinch brake hose dripping during install.
image.webp
image.webp
image.webp
 
Nope, just bled the caliper, line was sealed during operation, brake are good and strong now and no burning smell. Someone else mentioned to leave the valve alone since I was using a pleasure bleeder last time. The fluid is still very clean.

UPDATE 8/5: drove to work this morning, 35 miles, zero vibration during drive, and infrared temps on and around replaced caliper 110F (prior high was upwards of 330F).

Winner winner chicken dinner, that's an engineering technical phrase for QED: quod erat demonstrandum.
 
Last edited:
W^5
 
Had to update my build thread with the latest addition, finalize it by aiming the lights last night to cover the bigass gap under the headlights. Now I can avoid running over priuses


image-jpg.1125114
 
Fixing the mild carnage from LR this past weekend, a is Rafael for the advise!

image.webp
image.webp
image.webp
 
Izzy,

I think most of that happened on Dickie Bell. I remember seeing the tire grab the mud flap a couple of times and when it did the whole flare started shaking loose. Looks good now though!

Dave
 
Removing the factory rack today, felt loose and useless and I found out why, it was partially RTVed to the car! Amazing what people do.
Anyway, found out that cutting the rear of the rubber part allows you to pull forward the whole piece exposing the metal.

image.webp


Good bit of rust under there
image.webp
image.webp


Used a hacksaw to cut 3 bolts that spun with nutsert, 3 bolts where actually working normally, the rest where glued to roof. Here's what it looks like under, may overcoat it and used rubber plugs with black sealant to plug holes. For now I just put a piece of racer tape over holes until Amazon delivers the goodies.

image.webp


This type of plug would acutally work, order some 1/2" ones as the hole is about 12mm, and not perfectly round.
image.webp
 
If you think a nut-sert is a procedure you urologist would do, read on, the rest of you cool kids, this is not for you.

To seal the holes left navy the roof rack removal, I bought one of each Dorman panel retainers for Ford and one for GM. That way I had different sizes. Also a tube of black adhesive sealant.
image.webp
image.webp


Next I sanded using 800 grit paper the area around the hole. This wet dry sandpaper has been found by extensive field research to be the correct grit. And jsut happened to be the only one I had. Use alcohol dab to clean up area and then dab the sealant around the hole like below.

image.webp


Next, insert the nylon plastic retainers all the way, some of the goopy black sealant may come out, that's fine. Now we let it cure for a day and in the near future we can sand the rest and spray paint it all. Will it last long enough? Time will tell.

image.webp
 
Time for radiator flush after the Heater Core Flushing - OWNED!
First, remove the front skid plate if you have one, then find the radiator drain cock on the driver side, see below. Loosen it a few turns AFTER placing container under radiator
image.webp
image.webp


Remove radiator cap, more liquid will come out. Take about 10-15 mins to stop flowing.

image.webp


And here is the Toyota brown antifreeze. Close to 3 gallons came out, that's a five gallon bucket.

image.webp


I use this burping funnel for adding water from hose to radiator. Fill up to the top, start engine with heater on hottest setting and high fan. 20 mins to ensure thermostat opens. Ran engine at 2000 rpm for 5 mins too, very hot air from heater vents is the cue.

image.webp
 
Last edited:
Let the engine cool for 20, repeat the process as the water in the funnel miss with the rest of the coolant and will look like this. After refilling and running engine hot and thermostat open, I am letting it cool overnight. Tomorrow will repeat process until it comes out clean. I didn't want to open engine cock, with my luck I will strip the bolt and will need big repairs. So flush it is, going to need more buckets.
I guess no matter what you do, some tap water will remain in the system? Will flush with distilled water at the end, realizing that one gallon will remain in system

image.webp
 
Drained this morning and refiilled, repeat process a third time more gunk out but clearer.
image.webp

After doing it 4 times, I came up with an idea combining the heater flush and radiator flush. Disconnected the heater return, but a hose on it going to a bucket. The connected the pump intake to a full bucket, kept the funnel on radiator and started engine. Then kept adding water from hose to funnel so it wouldn't go dry. The idea was to run water through system, flush out after heater. Seemed that it worked, 5 mins of running and rusty water became all clear.

image.webp
image.webp
image.webp


Next was radiator drain and adding the Gunk super flush content. Then add water to fill it up, ran engine for 30 mins. The Gunk is soapy, must be the surfactants in the mix.
Let the engine cool for 20 mins, drain again. More dirt came out, which was good.

image.webp


Afterwards, I reattached the short circuit on the heater and repeated that flush process again, until all was cl at water. Next, drain the radiator, close it up, and fill it up with Distilled water. I used 4 gallons of distilled to flush out tap water, same heater short circuit process., then drain radiator again.

Coolant adding. I added 1/2 gallon of direct coolant into heater hose, to make sure there are no air gaps there. There is at least 1 gallon of distilled water in system. Then I refilled radiator with another 1/2 gal of coolant, and 2 gallons of 50/50 mix. Using the heater cheat process, I was ale to ensure the water was expunged, pushed out by coolant. Then reconnected the heater return hose. Burp the system normally, and had 140F temp on the vents while running engine during burp process. All done, all mud and dirt out.

UPDATE: I checked the coolant today on 12/25 (dont have little kids, so time to tinker). Coolant looks perfect, like pinkish Koolaid, clean. Happy time.
 
Last edited:
This may the single most thorough coolant flush ever performed.
 
I tell you, no idea what I'm was doing, but it seemed to work, got 8 gallons of nasty crud to recycle. The best idea, I thought, was prefilling the heaters. I could actually see the distilled water being displaced.

UPDATE:
This morning went for a quick ride, 36F outside, truck outside all night. Timed from cold engine start, 2 mins to warm air, 4 mins to over 100F air, 7 mins to freaking hot air. By the time I got home, 10 mins later, whole truck was warm. Liking it.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom