Izzy's amateur hour

[izzyandsue]

The front was a little tighter.

1. Remove existing line and breather, 12mm socket for both bolts. Replace bolt on frame after remove so you don't have ugly hole
   
2. Route line from top of engine compartment, down to breather nipple in diff
3. Connect and secure hose to diff, then route up leaving slack, use tie wraps to secure hose
4. on top of engine, routed on the outboard side of brake booster, and use a simple copper 1/2 pipe hanger to secure to body, used existing hole, screw it down. All good to go

 

[JohnVee]

Did you remember to leave enough slack to allow for full axle droop? You can put a twist in the line that will form a loop and give you all you need.

 

[izzyandsue]

I almost added 50% more slack than the original hose. By lifting tuck and letting tires hang I was hoping to sim axle drop. So in essence, yeah, I hope so!

 

[izzyandsue]

Last on the weekend jobs, my messed up steering box top nut sealing washer. Had to remove the battery and battery box to get to it, marked the nut and screw location and loosened the nut a little, 1/4 turn, with 17mm socket. Then used an open ended wrench and screw driver. Have to hold screw driver steady while slowly removing nut.
After removing nut, removed washer, and saw it was pretty ripped. Insert new one and reverse process, keeping the adjusting screw as steady as possible.

Original washer had a pieces ripped out as you can see below, between 4-6 o'clock

New part number if anyone ever needs it, washer is perfect shape

 

[erymer]

Very nice work Izzy. I need to do the same with my diff breathers as well.

 

[izzyandsue]

I got the line from Amazon, roll of 25ft, $19, and 2 inline filters from Lowes at $5 each. so pretty cheap upgrade

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMFLG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[JohnVee]

Eric has proven that he'll need to locate the ends a little higher than Izzy did. I ran my rear up to the gas filler door and the front into the upper engine bay. Eric might just want to run all of his up the new snorkel.

 

[erymer]

Eric has proven that he'll need to locate the ends a little higher than Izzy did. I ran my rear up to the gas filler door and the front into the upper engine bay. Eric might just want to run all of his up the new snorkel.

haha...That's some funny chit right there......but very, very true. 25 ft of line might not be long enough.

 

[izzyandsue]

Ordered one of these CDL switches today.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-cdl-switch-30-shipped.796004/

 

[izzyandsue]

CDL switch! Installed, works perfect

 

[izzyandsue]

This week on the show we have brake flush! Pennzoil DOT3 used, not the good racing stuff...

Good news is the motive power bleeder was great, now all the fluid looks like apple juice. Looked like diesel motor oil! The bad news is a stud got busted. I noticed that a few wheel nuts are hard to screw in, will get new ones. Scott Clark was already closed today.

Nasty looking crap

Clamps made the pressure cap easy to hold 15 psi.

This is my third motive bleeder, I used to use them 4-5 times a month, they make the job easy. Hope it all works now!

 

[ZA80]

Did you also bleed and flush the LPS "load positioning sensor"?

 

[izzyandsue]

Uuhhhhhh, where dat?

 

[izzyandsue]

Sheeeeeet, guess I will be doing that next weekend. Holds a lot of fluid? I went through 48 Oz flushing the rest until it was perfect clean.

 

[ZA80]

You will get a fright to see how much crap is in that line.
That valve changes your brake bias between front and back. Also when you do emergency braking it pushes fluid through.
Very often air in that line and also causes that soft peddle feel under hard braking.

Just bleed it normal and topup fluids will be fine.

 

[izzyandsue]

Thanks! Will do the pedal push bleed then on that one, once one of my boys gets up at the crack of noon.

 

[JohnVee]

Don't mangle the bleed screw. Only available as the entire $$$ assembly. It's not the same size as the others. Well, it is a 10mm at least.

 

[JohnVee]

Sheeeeeet, guess I will be doing that next weekend. Holds a lot of fluid? I went through 48 Oz flushing the rest until it was perfect clean.

Damn, you're thrifty and lucky.

 

[izzyandsue]

And this week, ghettofied cup holder modification! I like coffee, I drink coffee with lots of heavy cream and a pinch of salt. Love it. The 80 hates it, stupid square cup holder. So I cut strips of carpet and velcroed the suckers to hold my 22 OZ insulated mug. Worked great, even at big creek going over death defying obstacles!

 

[izzyandsue]

Thanks Darrin. I backed out the PS box screw about a 1/2 rev, retightned to spec torque, hope the sucker holds. Will keep fluid in spares.

I tried today to fix the flashing light on front lockers. They do engage, have engaged since day one after install of brand new actuator ( tested it then and worked perfectly, but flashed anyway). This morning I removed the switch on the actuator, shorted the plug and the lights gas solid, so that works. Removed swich, cleaned, reconected and pushed it in, solid light. Hmmm, so that's not it. Had the truck up on 4 jack stands, wheels off the ground, got it all to lock like a beast, tested and retested, but front locker light still only flashes. Paint in the ass...

Shorted the plug gets me a solid front locked light

27mm socket made the removal easy for the sensor. Cleaned and tested it outside by pushing, lit was solid again.

Tried brand new senor, but same as old, light flashes. With fronts locked and verified locked...... Bastard....