RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
nicely done
Izzy's amateur hour
- Thread starter izzyandsue
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
Has anyone removed and installed a front e-locker actuator? I replaced all the differentials and TC gear oil, lubed drive shaft kind of day. With the truck up off the ground, I tested the lockers and the front I can hear the sound of the actuator, but it does not lock. It used to lock but always had a flashing light. And the actuator is not a year old and I wanted to reinstall with the FSM install format, which was probably not followed during first install.
Tried following FSM for removal and install but couldn't even get it off.
Tried following FSM for removal and install but couldn't even get it off.
Last edited:
What stage are you getting stuck at? It's super easy to remove the actuator.
Quick steps:
1. Unplug wiring harness
2. Unbolt position switch by removing three bolts holding cover on
3. Unbolt actuator rod from shift fork (now shown since removing cover)
4. Unbolt actuator assembly from diff housing
Quick steps:
1. Unplug wiring harness
2. Unbolt position switch by removing three bolts holding cover on
3. Unbolt actuator rod from shift fork (now shown since removing cover)
4. Unbolt actuator assembly from diff housing
- Thread starter
- #124
Thanks Johnny, but I think I am going to get this to Toyota Techs. I am not confident I can find all that and not break something. Will see if they can fit me in later this week.
Come on man. For what you have done it is easy. Then test with a 9 volt battery.
Sent from my SM-G920V
Sent from my SM-G920V
Mata el tigre y le tiene miedo al cuero!
- Thread starter
- #127
Okay, that made me laugh Rafa.
Called the Techs, but have to schedule drop off and pick up, get a ride, that can be more complicated in my life that trying to fix it. But here is my problem:
1. Unplug wiring harness - easy, did it this weekend.
2. Unbolt position switch by removing three bolts holding cover on - position switch (I thought) is a single 27mm socket, so no idea what this other one is
3. Unbolt actuator rod from shift fork (now shown since removing cover) - this I can't see without figuring out 2 above
4. Unbolt actuator assembly from diff housing - when I did that this weekend, lower left bolt can't come out, hits the front steering bar behind diff.
This is the kind of mess I would gladly pay someone to come to my driveway and do. Here is an old pic from when I was trying to see if the "sensor" was not sending the signal that system was locked.
Called the Techs, but have to schedule drop off and pick up, get a ride, that can be more complicated in my life that trying to fix it. But here is my problem:
1. Unplug wiring harness - easy, did it this weekend.
2. Unbolt position switch by removing three bolts holding cover on - position switch (I thought) is a single 27mm socket, so no idea what this other one is
3. Unbolt actuator rod from shift fork (now shown since removing cover) - this I can't see without figuring out 2 above
4. Unbolt actuator assembly from diff housing - when I did that this weekend, lower left bolt can't come out, hits the front steering bar behind diff.
This is the kind of mess I would gladly pay someone to come to my driveway and do. Here is an old pic from when I was trying to see if the "sensor" was not sending the signal that system was locked.
Before taking it a part i will check if the position switch is good. That will mess with you.
The black wire is a tube. It should come off by pulling gently
For those that want to know what I meant: killed the tiger and is scare of the skin.
The black wire is a tube. It should come off by pulling gently
For those that want to know what I meant: killed the tiger and is scare of the skin.
My mistake, my directions were for the rear e-locker actuator. I am not familiar with the 8" e-locker.
- Thread starter
- #130
Got it. Yes, the position switch is good, took it out and tested it, good contact. Even tried replacing it with new one, no difference. But at least I know thats good do go. Just need to figure out this front actuator. I was ready, had a 9V battery to follow the FSM, but could not remove it. I suspect it was not installed with the correct alignment. The FSM instructions are poor, but I would give it a shot.
Not using the sawzall like I did for my "cup holder"
Not using the sawzall like I did for my "cup holder"
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
- Thread starter
- #132
This is the FSM wording for removal. Anyone knows what the first (a) means? Is it removed in the "locked" position? I can see the error on (c), the nuts don't budge but the whole stud comes out. Anyone with this experience on the fronts, insight appreciated.
1. REMOVE FRONT ACTUATOR
(a) Shifting the front differential lock.
(b) Disconnect the connector and tube.
(c) Remove the 2 nuts, bolt and actuator.
(d) Remove the O−ring from the actuator.
On the install, thats where the 9 V battery comes in I am guessing, down in the NOTICE the phrase "do not electrify moreover". Also I found out one of the pictures in the FSM is a mirror image of another one, the illustration got reversed but no big deal.
INSTALLATION
1. INSTALL FRONT ACTUATOR
(a) Check that the outermost rack tooth of the shift fork is virtually above the center line of the actuator installation hole.
(b) Using a dry cell battery, align the matchmark on the pinion with the center line of the actuator.
NOTICE:
If the pinion of the actuator is not in the specified place, the actuator is difficult to be installed.
Do not supply the battery positive voltage between terminals.
If the matchmark comes to the extension limit of the rotation, do not electrify moreover.
(c) Install a new O−ring to the actuator.
(d) Apply a light coat of gear oil on the O−ring.
(e) Apply MP grease to the gear part of the actuator.
(f) Install the actuator to the differential with the 2 nuts and bolt, so that the outermost rack tooth of the shift fork will fit matchmark of the pinion of the actuator.
1. REMOVE FRONT ACTUATOR
(a) Shifting the front differential lock.
(b) Disconnect the connector and tube.
(c) Remove the 2 nuts, bolt and actuator.
(d) Remove the O−ring from the actuator.
On the install, thats where the 9 V battery comes in I am guessing, down in the NOTICE the phrase "do not electrify moreover". Also I found out one of the pictures in the FSM is a mirror image of another one, the illustration got reversed but no big deal.
INSTALLATION
1. INSTALL FRONT ACTUATOR
(a) Check that the outermost rack tooth of the shift fork is virtually above the center line of the actuator installation hole.
(b) Using a dry cell battery, align the matchmark on the pinion with the center line of the actuator.
NOTICE:
If the pinion of the actuator is not in the specified place, the actuator is difficult to be installed.
Do not supply the battery positive voltage between terminals.
If the matchmark comes to the extension limit of the rotation, do not electrify moreover.
(c) Install a new O−ring to the actuator.
(d) Apply a light coat of gear oil on the O−ring.
(e) Apply MP grease to the gear part of the actuator.
(f) Install the actuator to the differential with the 2 nuts and bolt, so that the outermost rack tooth of the shift fork will fit matchmark of the pinion of the actuator.
Yes, remove in the locked position. Always lock actuators when removing and installing.
- Thread starter
- #134
Thanks! That was a key answer to the FSM niponglish.
- Thread starter
- #135
Tried again today, no dice, wont budge with force I am willing to apply. Didnt use a crowbar to get it out, but a screw driver. Had the truck on 4L, locked rear, locked front, remove connector, 2 nuts, and the one bolt, the actuator is not moving when I did plain hand force and medium screwdriver wedging. So leaving that alone for an experience tech.
If you were closer I would just say bring it by and we can do it.
Sent from my SM-G920V
Sent from my SM-G920V
- Thread starter
- #137
Going to try one more thing Sunday, was looking at the old one I kept....
Was the actuator moving when u energized it? I could be that it is not moving.
- Thread starter
- #139
Yes, and this time it locked the axle good, so locking is intermittent.
- Thread starter
- #140
Adding some German Engineering in da house! May help fix my locker actuators!
Drove through Autobell today to remove must of the mud, it rained inside the truck! I thought WTF!!! Got home, opened sunroof and found a nutsert blocking left side drain, and a wet leaf on right side. I did opened sunroof yesterday at Big Creek, jeez. Removed, cleaned tubes, tested with water and draining fine now.
Drove through Autobell today to remove must of the mud, it rained inside the truck! I thought WTF!!! Got home, opened sunroof and found a nutsert blocking left side drain, and a wet leaf on right side. I did opened sunroof yesterday at Big Creek, jeez. Removed, cleaned tubes, tested with water and draining fine now.