Izzy's amateur hour

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Need to replace Alternator (Generator for the purists), battery is not getting charged, had it tested just under 11 V today. Getting an Autozone one, lifetime warranty on their Duralast units for $132.99. Looks like an original reman, will get it tomorrow. I know it's not OEM, but I already have VW floor mats and GM charcoal canister..... Hope to do the switch tomorrow.
 
Well, this bad boy is out. Belts where loose so I tightened and retested. 12.2V. Going to take it to store when I pick up new one and have them test it, also yes the new one.

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Why dont upgrade to a higher amp alternator now that it is time to replace it. I bet will be available since it was the tundra alt
 
Didn't know about the upgrade, but installed the Duralast this pm. Had the same markings and stampings, Nipon Denso but in Autozone box. One tip to fit new one, used a socket and c-clamp to move pivot bolt bushing towards the front. Bolt will slide it back in when torqued.

Measured 15.48V at machine, old one was 11.4V. Shiny and working. I measured 14.7V on truck,

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Lifetime of the part of course. Once it's life is over, so is the warranty. :hillbilly:
 
Well, expecting the worse scenario, just ordered a new rear locker actuator, good sale prices anyway. Worse case because if my original is dead, I am good to go. If not, return it. Need to sourced the gasket permatex too.
 
And this morning, after not being driven for 2 days, battery was DED dead. Jumped and took to Autozone, they measured the voltage regulator as failed, and this is the new reman with lifetime warranty. Will remove it again and take back, PITA. I also measured the battery after charged. With doors closed, everything off, I have 6mAmps on he meter if I read that right. Could I have a parasitic draw? Bee reading the threads about it just in case?
 
That is about right mA. With the doors open probably read about 14.
 
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I need a more better multimeter. I think that was 6.4 amps, can you tell? I removed every fuse one at a time, stayed the same. Removed the positive from the winch and went to 5.4. All fuses under by OBD and all fuses under hood removed and nothing changed. Removed the KC lights fuse too, no changes. Are there fuses anyplace else?
 
Take the white wire from alternator off. That should be the only one that is not fused it has a fusible link. Ur alternator is growded
 
My alternator has a black wire going to a nut, remove that one? The display above is 6mAmps, should be good there. I measured like below, saw this on YouTube while I was trying to figure this out. Disconnected the negative, and placed my leads to complete the circuit.

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That is about what they draw. Dc amp cannot be measure with some clap meters. You have to complete the circuit with your meter leads.
 
Okay, I must be doing something wrong in electrowizardry. Battery still drains in 2 days, third alternator installed and tested good. So what I did was:
  1. Used external charger to charge battery to full charge, verified that
  2. Disconnected negative from battery pole, let it sit for 2 days and measured voltage.
  3. After 2 days, cranked the engine and no problem, full charge still
So I must have a off-key drain that I just dont know how to measure for. The only new items in the truck are radio, winch, and KC lights. Radio has been there for over a year. What I did now to see what's what:
  1. Reconnected battery
  2. Removed winch cables from battery
  3. Removed KC from solenoid and fuse
Any other thoughts appreciated. Hope to see if the new lights or the winch have been draining the battery.
 
I'd hook up you ammeter in line with your main power to the fuse box.
With the discharge rate you're seeing, you should certainly see some reading.
Pull 1 fuse at a time - I'd start with your lights since they're the most recent addition - when the the reading drops to zero (or close, you're still powering clock etc) you'll have found the guilty circuit.
 
Don't discount the radio, I had a truck here a while back that kept doing the very same thing. I isolated it down to the aftermarket radio.

Patience Grasshopper, old wiring can be a fun time.
 
Hopefully my disconnects will flush out radio. I think I already did what Jim mentions, post number 154. And I thought it was reading 6.37mAmps. I removed each fuse, no changes. I removed the positive cable from the winch and it went to 5mA. Otherwise the meter could be baaaad?
 
Hmmm...If EVERY fuse was puled and you still had a 5mA draw, that would imply either:
a dead short somewhere -> more than 5mA I would expect and heat and meltiness
a draw on a unfused circuit -> you already pulled the winch so, starter maybe - try pulling the cable from the starter solenoid
 
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