Izzy's amateur hour

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izzyandsue

izzyandsue

Izzy
SILVER Star
10 Year
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Threads
119
Messages
6,871
Location
Charlotte, NC
Website
www.tactegra.com
Tan tan tan...... Ta dahhhhh

It is here, my Engo 10000 S! The bumper and sliders where supposed to arrive yesterday but the wuss of a truck driver didnt show up, even today. I was hoping for good weather to rattle can them.. Now I have to wait until next week and deal with my a-hole of a boss for time off.

Will open box to make sure is the "S" model. Will show my ineptitude for my build in is thread. Or in the Daily funny pics one...

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Got the MetalTech tube bumper and sliders. Also got a snatch block from them to go with the winch. I already have s***tybilt 4" tree saver, so hope to get stuck in Harris Teeter's parking lot soon.
 
With the good weather today, decided to see if I could get to the VSV fir The EGR that is throwing the P0402 code. Bought the Toyota part from Amazon yesterday, got here today, 90910-12079. Found the part under the intake, removed the 2 hoses (had to unbolt manifold bracket to get my hands in there), then the electrical connector. The las part was easier from the top by the throttle cable.

I used, ahem, rainbird plastic (ABS) connectors to extend the vacuum lines, the. Used the same brand hose since it fit the part perfectly. Hey, had all that crap in the garage. Next reconnected it all back together and bolted the intake bracket back up. Used tie wraps to secure VSV, original VSV still where it was. Ran the engine to operating temp and rev it up a bit, all seems good. Will see if code comes back, I can then reattach the hoses and connector and fiddle with something else. The VSV was what my tech told me was causing the DTC.

Tomorrow, frost fighter paint on rear defogger.


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Well, after 220 miles the 0402 code has returned. The one good thing I learned is I can read and clear codes with engine on and moving, my other cars never did that.
So the VSV replacement wasnt a solution for this code. I have reset code and odometer and will test one more time. It used to trip every 90 miles or so, for what is worth.

I also took delivery of the bumper and sliders this week. Will proceed with cleaning, priming, and painting with Rustoleum professional tomorrow and Sunday. Hope to do bumper install Sunday as I have my little boys home from college and they have all the muscle. Will post them up when done. Sliders may do later in the week.
 
The goods are primed and painted, 2 coats each. Tomorrow should be install day!

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Lots of pics for The Wrenching Thread.
 
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All right sports fans, first thing, college kids wake up at the crack of noon and they have to go to Jimmy Johns for food (civilians....), so late start.

Removing bumper was simple, remove two outboard bolts on frame and thing comes off. The I found this! My AC freon leak, mutherotter. There's a stainless line and block that connect to this thing, a single bolt there that hopefully was loose so I tightened it.
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Then continued with install. First problem was the Engo bolts are larger than the Metal Tech bumper holes, so had to enlarge them. A pain after its all painted. Next, how to install winch on bumper since it won't slide in of bumper on truck. Old racing wheels came I handy.


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Next used child labor to slide bumper into frame, easy as could be. Then problem number 2, the winch control box hits the radiator, heat exchanger thing in front of engine radiator. Crap! Try moving it around, but nothing worked. That was a huge letdown.

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So I had to remove winch and decided to install new bumper anyway. Any clues for what to do appreciated. Will reach out to Metal Tech Monday since they assured me it will all fit.
 
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Now sliders, installed driver side by myself, passenger with help. Followed instructions and it was simple but difficult to manage.
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The finished product until I figure what to do with the winch.

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Continued
 
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Looking good izzy!

You may try and fab up some brackets to turns the winch selenoid box vertical and still mount to two cross bars spanning the spool. Essentially take what is the top now and face it foward. Or remote mount the box and then run power to an interior switch if you crave fanciness :)
 
Izzy don't fab nuttin. Izzy buys crap to keep the economy alive. I really don't do metal work, and has been too long since I designed anything in Pro-Engineer to give to a shop. I could slot the holes, slide that witch winch forward, but don't have tools for that. Routers and bits all for wood. 1/2" more would do it, or any solution like you mention above, I just hate to buy something bolt and play and it doesn't work.
 
Ha. Understand. And like you said always a bummer when buying bolt on proven stuff.


My fab idea isn't as intricate as some members here or you think. I bent some flat stock from lowes. Drilled a hole and used hose clamps to fasten. I would snap a pic if I still had that setup. But think glamour ghetto fab ;)
 
Heard back from Metal Tech. This component that was shipped is a universal solenoid box mount. I didn't know what is was, will see if I can finagle it in there.

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The way it would be bolted to the bumper is the 2 slots bolt to bumper lip, the larger flat area would create a shelf to mount box too.

Option 2 might be easier, found this last night googling around. Only one of the box "grips" holds on to the top of the winch. Seems legit enough but not sure, it was on a winch website. https://www.usoffroad.us/winch-fitment/

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You can remote mount the box almost anywhere. The only thing you will require is longer wires if you mount it farther than the wires reach.
 
UUHHH, this may work and be a simple homedepot/lowes fix for me. Offsets the whole box forward.

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