Is this salvageable? (Rust)

[antFJ]

That looks too cool to be a reality. There must be something that spoils it because if it is as good as it seems then Miller or some big forward looking weld equipment outfit would have bought them out first time it appeared anywhere.

definitely a real thing - that video i posted was the first one I found on Youtube.

These guys below I have visited in person. Very cool to see what they can do with this process.

American Stripping Company – Just another WordPress site
Rust Repair – American Stripping Company

 

[deanfj40]

paint thinner is not paint stripper

I ment paint strippee

 

[honk]

definitely a real thing - that video i posted was the first one I found on Youtube.

These guys below I have visited in person. Very cool to see what they can do with this process.

Thanks, that does firm it up for me nicely.

I t should probably be said that this is not a process to be considered as a home shop repair possibility.

Unless a person has state of the art protection and air supply working with Zinc can drop you cold dead almost as quickly as being boinked on the head with a five pound sledgehammer.

It's really not to be fooled with as too many guy's families have found after their guy went to welding galvanized steel without first making sure that the galvanizing Zinc had been thoroughly removed from the base metal steel. Zinc fumes will kill you.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Unless a person has state of the art protection and air supply working with Zinc can drop you cold dead almost as quickly as being boinked on the head with a five pound sledgehammer.

It's really not to be fooled with as too many guy's families have found after their guy went to welding galvanized steel without first making sure that the galvanizing Zinc had been thoroughly removed from the base metal steel. Zinc fumes will kill you.

I've welded miles of 16 ga galvanized steel building exhaust ducts... so I'm not sure where you get this. Zinc is a necessary nutrient for humans.

 

[MOTOV8R]

It can kill you but you would probably have to be ignoring the symptoms you were experiencing. I have welded galvanized before, it creates funky cobweb type smoke.

Side Effects of Welding Galvanized Steel - Weld My World

 

[deanfj40]

Hey guys so ive been attacking the rust and got most of the soft stuff off im down to metal but still has the deep rust. I Bought 2 bottles of jasco prep & primer "rust converter". My question is do i just apply it everywhere even where there isnt rust? Also on the rear tub where the rust made it buppy do i apply the rust converter followed by filler then paint or hows that process?
what would be a good filler to make it smooth again?

 

[deanfj40]

 

[120mm]

I actually think that's a nice looking truck, but I'm from Iowa.

I'd definitely avoid putting anything over that rust, like carpet or bedliner. Either clean it up and leave it as patina or strip the old paint off, treat it with some kind of phosphate/rust converter and repaint.

 

[deanfj40]

I actually think that's a nice looking truck, but I'm from Iowa.

I'd definitely avoid putting anything over that rust, like carpet or bedliner. Either clean it up and leave it as patina or strip the old paint off, treat it with some kind of phosphate/rust converter and repaint.

thats my plan right now but im wondering if the rust converter would stick to the nonrusted parts where the paint is still good. which will eventually be painted over

 

[MOTOV8R]

thats my plan right now but im wondering if the rust converter would stick to the nonrusted parts where the paint is still good. which will eventually be painted over

I use this in a spray bottle for converting rust. Hasn't hurt the paint around the rust. Leaves a white powder when it dries that you can just clean off. It's 35-45% phosphoric acid according to the SDS. And it's cheaper than a lot of rust converter products.

Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch GKPA30220 at The Home Depot - Mobile

 

[Shickalee]

I definitely think you can salvage the original tub. You could sand/soda blast but the best option to get into every nook and cranny would be to chemically dip and the e-coat.

http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/services/automotiveservices.html

 

[brian]

I honestly think that you are way over thinking this

 

[Shickalee]

I honestly think that you are way over thinking this

Well who among us doesn't initially overthink our projects then reality/budget sets in and always comes down to... is there enough juice for the squeeze.

 

[emac]

Spend a weekend and take the tub off the frame. Sandblast and repaint the entire tub and frame. Put it all back together. It really isn't that much more work. While the body is getting painted redo all the other stuff like heater box, seats, wiring harness etc. Full on restoration!!

 

[antFJ]

Spend a weekend and take the tub off the frame. Sandblast and repaint the entire tub and frame. Put it all back together. It really isn't that much more work. While the body is getting painted redo all the other stuff like heater box, seats, wiring harness etc. Full on restoration!!

lol a weekend? that took me like two years.

 

[Shickalee]

lol a weekend? that took me like two years.

To clarify, what he meant specifically is that taking the tub off takes a weekend.... the two years is the sandblast, repaint the entire tub and frame, redo all the other stuff like heater box, seats, wiring harness etc, then put it all back together. lol

 

[antFJ]

Hey guys so ive been attacking the rust and got most of the soft stuff off im down to metal but still has the deep rust. I Bought 2 bottles of jasco prep & primer "rust converter". My question is do i just apply it everywhere even where there isnt rust? Also on the rear tub where the rust made it buppy do i apply the rust converter followed by filler then paint or hows that process?
what would be a good filler to make it smooth again?

I've used the jasco stuff inside doors and here and there and it works great. You don't really want to get it on anything else besides the rust including you. It is nasty stuff. I think the directions say wait 24 hours then prime and paint. If you want to smooth everything out (you say bumpy.. do you mean pitting?) Bubbles or bumps typically mean there is more rust and you gotta keep digging. If you're talking about the pitting left over after you remove the rust you can use body filler i guess... Not sure how that would hold up though - it might crack easily if you put something in the back of your truck... I've seen some filler used in beds of classic cars/trucks that are used for show cars to make them absolutely perfect but is that really what you need/want? you're talking about a lot of filler and a lot of sanding.

so to answer your question more concisely.
converter, prime, filler, prime, paint (lots of sanding between steps)

 

[luvdamud]

Where the metal is pitted some after clean-up but still thick enough to keep, has anybody tried lead instead of bondo? I'm told lead adds structure and is preferable to bondo. I don't recall seeing anything in the forums on this and believe it's a dying skill.

 

[deanfj40]

lol a weekend? that took me like two years.

Lmao. Yeah I don't have the tolls and man power to take the whole tub off and I don't own a sand blaster. I was thinking more of rust converter and rattle can paint haha

 

[emac]

Dang, I thought I could get you guys to help get him hooked on some FJ40 crack! It really isn't too hard to remove the whole tub.

Short of that, clean it up as best you can, prime and paint it. Do what you can to keep it dry and save it for another day or future restorer. It sure looks like a pretty solid rig. Post up some more pictures.