Installed Dobinson's 1.75 Inch Variable Rate Suspension Kit: C59 - 222V, C59 223V

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I'm running the 2" version of the delta vs arms and the lift I got is more like 2.5-3" after measuring my rig is light and I have the springs accounting for extra weight. Front measured 19.5 front hub to fender pre lift and 22 1/2after. And 20" prelift rear and 23 1/4 after View attachment 2540906
Maybe a dumb question, but when you measured was it from the top of the hub to the fender or the center of the hub to the fender?

I love how your cruiser sits!
 
My "armchair engineer" opinion is that Toyota's OEM caster setting was a bit of a miss on their part. I think they opted for making it handle "more like a car" and their starting point was a too far to that side. It's fine at stock height, but 5º wouldn't have felt lazy by any means and would have given room for a small lift without making it borderline dangerous. I set up a friends solid axle swap at 6º on his Hilux and it was perfect for making big mud tires and flexy suspension track and still didn't feel sluggish when turning.
Too much caster causes stress to components offroad. Maybe less caster to increase steering components life.
 
Too much caster causes stress to components offroad. Maybe less caster to increase steering components life.
Jeep has been running 6 degrees as their OEM setting for years. I realize we tend to expect more from Toyota than Jeep (and rightly so ;) ) but I sincerely don't think 6 degrees is "too much". Again, just my "armchair engineer" opinion.
 
Jeep has been running 6 degrees as their OEM setting for years. I realize we tend to expect more from Toyota than Jeep (and rightly so ;) ) but I sincerely don't think 6 degrees is "too much". Again, just my "armchair engineer" opinion.
Well that much caster causes the tire to rise when you steer. So it increases effort for the steering components to do that. It also builds heat in the power steering. So I think Toyota probably minimized caster to counter that. Toyota has always been pretty conservative in that way.
 
Well that much caster causes the tire to rise when you steer. So it increases effort for the steering components to do that. It also builds heat in the power steering. So I think Toyota probably minimized caster to counter that. Toyota has always been pretty conservative in that way.
I mean... my time machine is broken, so I can't drop in on the design discussion and I doubt my half-dozen word Japanese vocabulary would provide much insight. So we're basically just speculating. That said, I don't really buy that they did it for wear, I think they did it for feel, and I think it wasn't the best choice. My opinion.

Most solid axle 4x4s run more that 3 from the factory - Ford is the closest at 3.5 if memory servers, vs 5 for Dodge and 6 for Jeep as I mentioned. I'm not aware of any of them tending to have issues with excessive heat from power steering components or steering components that wear prematurely in unmodified vehicles. We're splitting hairs over differences that are well within spec for normal OEM vehicles, but ignoring the point I was making in the first place: 5 would have allowed a mild lift with safe handling without correction. 3 really doesn't, because less than 3 tends to get squirelly rapidly. That little bit of rise in the tire is what keeps it from wanting to behave like a shopping cart wheel. It's all a compromise, but if I had been part of the team making that choice, I would have lobbied for a different one.
 
Another data point: I installed the 222 in front and 223 in rear of my 1997 LC with plan to add an ARB winch bumper and Comeup 9.5. No big bumper or drawers in the back, but probably Slee step sliders in the future.
Before:
LF 20.125 RF 19.875
LR 20.375 RR 21
(Full tank 3rd row removed)

After: LF 22.375 RF 22.625
LR 22.625 RR 23.25
Net lift initially:
LF 2.25 RF 2.5
LR 2 RR 2.25

Now I’ve got three Land Cruisers with a DS lean!! 😂😂😂

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Just installed 222/223s. Almost netted 3inches. Currently just over 23inches on all. Stock weight. Do these settle and loose some height? Already have delta 2inch arms ready to install but now not sure if i need delta 3in? Or should be fine with 2in?
 
Just installed 222/223s. Almost netted 3inches. Currently just over 23inches on all. Stock weight. Do these settle and loose some height? Already have delta 2inch arms ready to install but now not sure if i need delta 3in? Or should be fine with 2in?
Yes, all new coil springs take 500-1000 miles to break in. Had the vehicle been driven before you measured it?

And do you have any weight on them yet? They will sit taller than 2" with no weight on them.
 
Just installed 222/223s. Almost netted 3inches. Currently just over 23inches on all. Stock weight. Do these settle and loose some height? Already have delta 2inch arms ready to install but now not sure if i need delta 3in? Or should be fine with 2in?
The 2 inch arms are what you want. Once they are installed put some weight back in and drive around, it should settle right in.
 
Very happy with this setup and glad i had this thread for some references. sitting at 22" center hub to fender on all four with all the gear. and still fit in the garage!

I went with 222V / 223V combo with the adjustable poly radius arm bushings set at 2.5 deg, truck drives great.

View attachment 3475696

View attachment 3475697
What rear bumper is this? Great looking stance by the way...
 
Yes, all new coil springs take 500-1000 miles to break in. Had the vehicle been driven before you measured it?

And do you have any weight on them yet? They will sit taller than 2" with no weight on them.
Curious if no weight/load Dobinson springs also settle. I’m torn between stock height replacement and smallest lift (1.75” no load comfort or variables). Hoping for 1-1.75” lift and try to avoid caster correction if possible with up to 295/75r16’s. Was thinking stock height springs and spring spacers if needing a bit more lift was way to go, but open to slight on larger spring if not too high per above.
 
Curious if no weight/load Dobinson springs also settle. I’m torn between stock height replacement and smallest lift (1.75” no load comfort or variables). Hoping for 1-1.75” lift and try to avoid caster correction if possible with up to 295/75r16’s. Was thinking stock height springs and spring spacers if needing a bit more lift was way to go, but open to slight on larger spring if not too high per above.
All coil springs will settle to the listed lift height with the listed weight.

Use the stock height coils with coil spacers if you want to get a lift height between 0 and 1.75"
 
So I've been going back and forth on my suspension upgrade, like all of you. I don't have my stock measurements, nor does it really matter, but as you can see, I have a '95 JDM with 285s, an OEM bumper guard, and an OEM spare swing arm. Bumpers are all stock and no roof rack. I plan on swapping out the front bumper at some point, unless someone can convince me otherwise. I don't really have a rear bumper plan, but it's not out of the realm of possible in the future. The third row seats are currently installed, however, I will be removing these soon and building a drawer system.

After talking with @crikeymike, I think I'm going to go with 222/223s, however, I want to avoid the squat look (especially loaded up), so I'm trying to figure out what size coil spacers to add to the back - thinking 15mm at least. Has anyone done the setup with the spacers in the back? I don't mind a little bit more height in the back, but I don't want it egregious.

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So I've been going back and forth on my suspension upgrade, like all of you. I don't have my stock measurements, nor does it really matter, but as you can see, I have a '95 JDM with 285s, an OEM bumper guard, and an OEM spare swing arm. Bumpers are all stock and no roof rack. I plan on swapping out the front bumper at some point, unless someone can convince me otherwise. I don't really have a rear bumper plan, but it's not out of the realm of possible in the future. The third row seats are currently installed, however, I will be removing these soon and building a drawer system.

After talking with @crikeymike, I think I'm going to go with 222/223s, however, I want to avoid the squat look (especially loaded up), so I'm trying to figure out what size coil spacers to add to the back - thinking 15mm at least. Has anyone done the setup with the spacers in the back? I don't mind a little bit more height in the back, but I don't want it egregious.
for the record, i have a steel bumper, swingout, full size 35" spare, and have loaded up my trunk with a few hundred pounds of gear for the weekend and have never gotten the truck to show any type of sag or squat with the 222/223 combo.
 
Yes, all new coil springs take 500-1000 miles to break in. Had the vehicle been driven before you measured it?

And do you have any weight on them yet? They will sit taller than 2" with no weight on them.
Based on your experience, how much on average would you say new coils will settle after a couple thousand miles? We talking like a 1/4” or something more significant? Just trying to get an idea what to expect. Thanks Mike!
 
Based on your experience, how much on average would you say new coils will settle after a couple thousand miles? We talking like a 1/4” or something more significant? Just trying to get an idea what to expect. Thanks Mike!
1/4" minimum usually up to 1/2" on solid axle models. Depends on the type of coil too.

For example, people will say "Hey, I just installed these 2" lift coils 5 minutes ago and I have 3" of lift", but a month later, they're at the 2" they're supposed to have. Or they don't account for how worn out and sagged their original suspension was.
 
1/4" minimum usually up to 1/2" on solid axle models. Depends on the type of coil too.

For example, people will say "Hey, I just installed these 2" lift coils 5 minutes ago and I have 3" of lift", but a month later, they're at the 2" they're supposed to have. Or they don't account for how worn out and sagged their original suspension was.
Awesome info Mike!
 

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