How heavy is your cruiser?Mall speed bump crawling
Not a daily driver but something I can take on freeways / streets to get to remote destinations (mountains/deserts) backtrails and some overlanding. No rock crawling stuff
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How heavy is your cruiser?Mall speed bump crawling
Not a daily driver but something I can take on freeways / streets to get to remote destinations (mountains/deserts) backtrails and some overlanding. No rock crawling stuff
How heavy is your cruiser?
Then IMO, this set up is too soft.Front:
ARB front bumper and plan on adding a badlands winch so total front weight would be about 200 lbs
Middle:
Adding White Knuckle Offroad Sliders so 120 lbs
May add a roof rack and tent in the future
Back:
Dual Swing Out rear metal bumper and 35 inch spare tire on bumper so about 300lbs I believe
Then IMO, this set up is too soft.
My truckis stock weight and this set up is perfect on road. Off road is a delight as I can dial it in with the dob MRR shocks with occasional bottoming out. But I could go slower.
This set up would work for you, and be plush on road tho!I appreciate your input. You may be right, I will discuss with @crikeymike
There you go. His resilts are what you want. With spacers up front. The body roll is less with the rebound increased on the MRR shocks.Should add body roll in mine is about the same as stock. But you could always put a beefier rear swaybar in.
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Following up on this- the driver side coil looks great but I could probably yank the passenger side 222 out at full droop using the longer shocks. Would it actually fall out on its own? Probably not but it does make me slightly uneasy.@crikeymike My trucks a big higher than I'd like. I'm currently on icon coils with the IMS 4-5" shocks (IMS45-60912 & IMS59-60687).
Would I need new shocks for the 222/223?
I have lower bump stops and @Delta VS rear spring retainers.
Edit-
Answering my own question with knowledge from the shock Bible (Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/compiled-80-series-suspension-component-spec-thread-shocks-coils-more.1026595/#post-11348352).
Quoting @GW Nugget "[if] your free height is at least 19.5" you can run a shock that extends to 26.5" like the OME L shock without coil falling out."
The c59-223v is ~20", and the IMS45-60912 is 26.3" fully extended.
Seriously questioning your foot attire right nowGot some caster numbers for my rig with the 222/icon rear combo with 2" @Delta VS arms. Truck handles pretty good but I would prefer a bit more caster for return to center, tracking, and highway stability. I'm also planning on installing an HD swaybar which should help.
I also have a set of 3" arms - those should put my caster right at 4° and that's exactly where I'd like to be, but I suspect the u joints / pinion angles won't like it. I have new driveshafts coming on the brown truck this week since my slip yokes have play. We'll see if a fresh driveline can handle the increased pinion angles. If not it's decision time- either
A.) live with 2°
B.) go down to a 1" lift with 861s and a spacer
C.) screw it and go part time.
My current hub to flair measurements are 22.5 in the front and 23.5 in the rear unloaded, darn near perfectly flat with a weekends worth of gear.
I really dig the ride height but I could lose an inch and be fine, I'm no crawler, too attached to this rig to trash it on the really challenging stuff.
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Speak for yourself Mr rainbowSeriously questioning your foot attire right now
big toe adjustments lolGot some caster numbers for my rig with the 222/icon rear combo with 2" @Delta VS arms. Truck handles pretty good but I would prefer a bit more caster for return to center, tracking, and highway stability. I'm also planning on installing an HD swaybar which should help.
I also have a set of 3" arms - those should put my caster right at 4° and that's exactly where I'd like to be, but I suspect the u joints / pinion angles won't like it. I have new driveshafts coming on the brown truck this week since my slip yokes have play. We'll see if a fresh driveline can handle the increased pinion angles. If not it's decision time- either
A.) live with 2°
B.) go down to a 1" lift with 861s and a spacer
C.) screw it and go part time.
My current hub to flair measurements are 22.5 in the front and 23.5 in the rear unloaded, darn near perfectly flat with a weekends worth of gear.
I really dig the ride height but I could lose an inch and be fine, I'm no crawler, too attached to this rig to trash it on the really challenging stuff.
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Either you too, are mocking my sandals, or you're confusing the front and rear measurements.big toe adjustments lol
Zero hate from this directionSpeak for yourself Mr rainbowfont
Seriously though flat is where it's at.
Zero drop vibram how you gonna hate?
I’m in the same position as you, except I have the 3” arms. Haven’t got an alignment yet to see my caster numbers. But I’ve had vibrations.Got some caster numbers for my rig with the 222/icon rear combo with 2" @Delta VS arms. Truck handles pretty good but I would prefer a bit more caster for return to center, tracking, and highway stability. I'm also planning on installing an HD swaybar which should help.
I also have a set of 3" arms - those should put my caster right at 4° and that's exactly where I'd like to be, but I suspect the u joints / pinion angles won't like it. I have new driveshafts coming on the brown truck this week since my slip yokes have play. We'll see if a fresh driveline can handle the increased pinion angles. If not it's decision time- either
A.) live with 2°
B.) go down to a 1" lift with 861s and a spacer
C.) screw it and go part time.
My current hub to flair measurements are 22.5 in the front and 23.5 in the rear unloaded, darn near perfectly flat with a weekends worth of gear.
I really dig the ride height but I could lose an inch and be fine, I'm no crawler, too attached to this rig to trash it on the really challenging stuff.
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Btw, C is the answerGot some caster numbers for my rig with the 222/icon rear combo with 2" @Delta VS arms. Truck handles pretty good but I would prefer a bit more caster for return to center, tracking, and highway stability. I'm also planning on installing an HD swaybar which should help.
I also have a set of 3" arms - those should put my caster right at 4° and that's exactly where I'd like to be, but I suspect the u joints / pinion angles won't like it. I have new driveshafts coming on the brown truck this week since my slip yokes have play. We'll see if a fresh driveline can handle the increased pinion angles. If not it's decision time- either
A.) live with 2°
B.) go down to a 1" lift with 861s and a spacer
C.) screw it and go part time.
My current hub to flair measurements are 22.5 in the front and 23.5 in the rear unloaded, darn near perfectly flat with a weekends worth of gear.
I really dig the ride height but I could lose an inch and be fine, I'm no crawler, too attached to this rig to trash it on the really challenging stuff.
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It is. Unless you live in socal, (OP maybe cheaper/easier in TN?) where shops quote $1300 for the job, not including parts. (Even that shop is 40 miles from me). And that’s if a shop will even touch a 20 year old truck. Ask me how I know. This option is too much of a pain and too expensive to fix a vibration for some, when going back down in lift is free. Plus you don’t lose full time awd…..blah blah this has been debated forever here.Btw, C is the answer
I might collect all 5 and just hang'm on the wall.Maybe hang on the the 2” arms as an option if you get vibes with the 3” arms.
Dumb question but is it still smooth in 2wd WITH hubs engaged? Can't be getting my bare toes muddy, nowBtw, C is the answer
If you're getting UD gears too that sounds pretty fair IMO- if not that's the socal tax I supposeUnless you live in socal, where shops quote $1300