I'm at my absolute wits end- truck still overheating despite best efforts (9 Viewers)

[jcardona1]

Not in this sleepy neighborhood. The inlet/outlet temperature differential is fairly damming evidence.



Unless the ScanGauge can check it, I don't have the scanner for it. I went thru the FSM and it says to test the voltage just not how.

Those yuppies can deal with it for a few minutes!

Not sure about a Scangauge but the Torque Android app displays o2 voltage

Among other things

 

[NLXTACY]

Well then I guess its time to get the Bluetooth OBD2 tool and hook up my iPad mini.

 

[zona]

Ok folks I can absolutely confirm two things:

1) The massive rash on my right forearm, from working in such a small space due to the SC, can absolutely confirm there is plenty of fiberglass in the battery trays

2) For those who were adamant that it was the thermostat, NO BEER FOR YOU!

There is no change or rather negligible change. Instead of the truck getting to 186 on the downhill, this time it got to 184. Otherwise the issue persists. So its off to the races with the exhaust.

I was thirsty damnit!

Zona

 

[TrickyT]

Well then I guess its time to get the Bluetooth OBD2 tool and hook up my iPad mini.

Look carefully before you buy a bluetooth based OBD-II tool for use with iOS, 'cause the only ones available are quite crippled. You'll need a WiFi based one to gain full access to OBD-II functionality, like this: http://www.scantool.net/obdlink-mxwf.html

 

[NLXTACY]

Look carefully before you buy a bluetooth based OBD-II tool for use with iOS, 'cause the only ones available are quite crippled. You'll need a WiFi based one to gain full access to OBD-II functionality, like this: http://www.scantool.net/obdlink-mxwf.html

Intersting, so which software?

 

[Qball]

Look carefully before you buy a bluetooth based OBD-II tool for use with iOS, 'cause the only ones available are quite crippled. You'll need a WiFi based one to gain full access to OBD-II functionality, like this: http://www.scantool.net/obdlink-mxwf.html

Those obd adapters are only compatible with android devices. I have one and an android phone with torque if you want to try.



...Misspelled via IH8MUD app

 

[NLXTACY]

Those obd adapters are only compatible with android devices. I have one and an android phone with torque if you want to try.

Ugh, makes it a useless pile of crap.

 

[FirstToy]

I have OBD Fusion app on the ipad
with a cheap ebay obd plug, it works pretty good.

It has a lot of features but I never checked my o2 readings so I'll have to double check to see if that works

 

[TrickyT]

Intersting, so which software?

Comes with a free iOS and Andriod apps, "OBDLink". https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obdlink/id879636351

However, unless you got in earlier on the Kickstarter project (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/obdsol/obdlink-mx-wifi-a-wireless-gateway-to-vehicle-obd) you're not going to be able to get one until September now.

Those obd adapters are only compatible with android devices. I have one and an android phone with torque if you want to try.

Did you even look at the link? As the web page says "Works with all iOS (iPhone/iPad), Android, and Windows products."

 

[TrickyT]

...Unless the ScanGauge can check it, I don't have the scanner for it. I went thru the FSM and it says to test the voltage just not how.

You really need a way to measure how the output voltage of the O2 sensors fluctuates over time and driving conditions to tell how well they are working. Most scan tool software doesn't plot the O2 output voltages, but if you're handy at computer programming you can write a little code to do something like this:

This was captured over a ~100 second interval at 1 sample per second moving from a parking lot onto a freeway and accelerating to 60mph at WOT and then back to idle. As you can see, the voltage (vertical axis) varies from ~0v to ~1v, so within the spec called for in the FSM ("alternates repeatedly between less than 0.4v and more than 0.55v"). You can also see that sensor #1 (pre cats) varies more rapidly then sensor #2 (post cats), as described in some earlier posts somewhere in this very long thread.

 

[MoeGasim]

as u know im no expert.....but with the work ive been doing on my cruiser....and haven't read all this thread....and having only seen the 'rear' of your rig......did u check the radiator itself for blockage??? maybe there is something between the radiator and AC condenser thingy.....stupid question and guessing u did.....but...who knows....our mechanics here just check the water pump as 'working' by lifting the lit of the radiator and then apply accelerator to see if the water flows slower or faster based on that

 

[Qball]

Comes with a free iOS and Andriod apps, "OBDLink". https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obdlink/id879636351

However, unless you got in earlier on the Kickstarter project (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/obdsol/obdlink-mx-wifi-a-wireless-gateway-to-vehicle-obd) you're not going to be able to get one until September now.




Did you even look at the link? As the web page says "Works with all iOS (iPhone/iPad), Android, and Windows products."

Ah missed that, nlxtacy was talking about the cheap blue tooth ones and they are for android only. the iOS version has to use wifi which use to burn through phones battery. Plus the free torque app is pretty slick with graph function and ISO has very little selection in terms of software last time I checked.

Either way is the dam thing fixed yet? At this rate this thread might get longer than the what did you do this weekend thread.

 

[blinkerfluid]

i've read quite a lot of this thread and I'm kinda baffled

What is your current ignition timing?
Are you certain that your compression timing is perfect?
Can you provide us the details of the engine rebuild?

I'm asking all that because you stated that your engine doesn't knock

 

[voorland80]

Aaaarrrggghh. I'm about to hear up a pot of water and compare these two for kicks.

View attachment 929796 View attachment 929797

What's that coating on your non-oem tstat? How many miles on the tstat?
Why I ask: previous owner stated radiator on my LX had been replaced two years earlier. I replaced it anyway.
Also replaced the thermostat. Here is what it looked like next to the new OEM.
These pics were taken just as it was taken out, no cleaning of the old tstat.
I'm looking at the deposit on your old tstat and wondering, might your radiator have similar deposits?
Sorry, no Scangauge here yet. Just eyeballing it still, .

 

[jcardona1]

Jose how did you get the o2 stuff... mine doesnt show up it says incomplete. Is there an update or would it be a problem with my truck? Where did you get all the other stuff like timing advance and intake temp? PM me with info if you would sir. Thanks

I'm on my phone so I can't search my old threads, but I had this problem. Search my old threads. The computer is detecting a check engine code and it will never switch to ready. Once I fixed my issue (new o2 sensors) the computer switched to ready in no time.

 

[NLXTACY]

When dude rebuilt it did he actually replace the water pump? Like installing the oem thermostat? Should have a pretty good rush of coolant through the radiator when it opens.

The rebuild was done by Martin Davidson Machining. He does SOR, MAF and others' LC motor builds. I've know him personally for 25 years and trust him implicitly. The install was done by K&H which works exclusively on cruisers. Richard is very old and I think is in his 70s now. His mechanics do the work. My wife and I are convinced it wasn't done on purpose and possibly they couldn't find the Tstat I brought them and just used what they had. The changes they used an a aftermarket water pump are extremely slim. But not 100% out if the realm of possibility.

 

[kbahus]

Really late to the game here and didn't read much of the 44 pages, but could it be possible the belts are simply slipping on the water pump pulley? I have fought belt slip issues on other supercharged vehicles, just a thought.

 

[western flyer]

Damn...back on page 6 I was betting on it being the Tstat.

 

[NLXTACY]

as u know im no expert.....but with the work ive been doing on my cruiser....and haven't read all this thread....and having only seen the 'rear' of your rig......did u check the radiator itself for blockage??? maybe there is something between the radiator and AC condenser thingy.....stupid question and guessing u did.....but...who knows....our mechanics here just check the water pump as 'working' by lifting the lit of the radiator and then apply accelerator to see if the water flows slower or faster based on that

Radiator is brand new and flows fine.

 

[NLXTACY]

What is your current ignition timing?

3º

Are you certain that your compression timing is perfect?

Yup

Can you provide us the details of the engine rebuild?

Knock yourself out, its a larger thread than this one:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/553208-engine-rebuilding-options-s-c.html

I'm asking all that because you stated that your engine doesn't knock

No knocking whatsoever.