I'm at my absolute wits end- truck still overheating despite best efforts (1 Viewer)

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FWIW, I am using Walker direct fit cats and am pleased with them.
 
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Alright alright alright. I'm finally doing the thermostat. It seemed every time this week when I would try to do this, some other issue popped up. Well now I'm just doing it so I can start telling other people "no", I can't help them :flipoff2:

I hate coolant running down into my armpit. Grr.
 
Well, I am definitely not bringing my kids over this Halloween.
 
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So look what-the-fxxx we have here!!!!!!

What is wrong with this picture?!?!
 
Aaaarrrggghh. I'm about to heat up a pot of water and compare these two for kicks.

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I hate coolant running down into my armpit. Grr.

Get a trashbag, tie one end to the radiator lower outlet, and the other end to the upper part of rad. hose #3 (i think... ) anyways, the one after the metal junction in the lower radiator hoses. Make sure the bag opening 'engulfs' the rad hose, then slowly work the hose loose at the radiator - from above. If done right, all the coolant will go in the trashbag...
 
I think you've spent more time posting about the possibilities than what it would have taken to replace it in the first place. ;)
 
So, tested the two thermostats together. Jiggle valve operates fine on both. Both start to open at slightly over 180. The aftermarket one opens fully sooner than OEM. OEM also closes slower.

I used the method prescribed by Mr T to test.
OEM 6mm to 16.5mm so 10.5 mm to full open.
Non OEM 13mm to 21mm so 8mm to full open.

Based on what I've tested an measured, sure it looks like a piece of s*** compared to OEM but it's operating the same and opening nearly as wide. Is 2mm enough to be overheating me? I highly doubt it but I'm going to change it non the less.
 
not oem, but doesn't seem to be your issue. It's good to baseline that tstat
 
Edit: so one thing I forgot to mention, while the Tstat was still installed, the jiggle valve was at 5 o'clock. I realize that is not correct but is that enough to bone me?

Speaking of boning me, K&H used a fxxxing aftermarket Tstat instead of the OEM I supplied him. I payed way too much for my rebuild to get cheap s*** installed. Grr.
 
Yeah and that is not like it is a part that you would never see again..... Unless he just lost your thermostat, but hell even then man up and say you lost it instead of buying a cheap aftermarket. Hmmmm that means he probably used a cheap heat to noise actuator too. That would explain all your issues. I would get on the phone with Beno or Dan and order an OEM one right away!
 
I hope like :censor: he didn't use cheap imitations for other - more critical - items in the rebuild ...

Glad you're finally looking at the T stat :deadhorse:
 
Tstat is changed and everything buttoned up with the truck running. It's 101 deg right now so good time to test. I'm not getting my hopes up because I don't think it's the issue but I'm still glad I changed it and I would love to be proven wrong.
 
Ok folks I can absolutely confirm two things:

1) The massive rash on my right forearm, from working in such a small space due to the SC, can absolutely confirm there is plenty of fiberglass in the battery trays

2) For those who were adamant that it was the thermostat, NO BEER FOR YOU! :flipoff2:

There is no change or rather negligible change. Instead of the truck getting to 186 on the downhill, this time it got to 184. Otherwise the issue persists. So its off to the races with the exhaust.
 
If you're gonna spend money on a new exhaust, have you thought about chopping it off before the cats? Would be loud and terrible, but you should be able to quickly confirm if that's what's causing it...

Also, did you test the jumping voltage of the o2 sensors to make sure they're within the specified range?
 
If you're gonna spend money on a new exhaust, have you thought about chopping it off before the cats? Would be loud and terrible, but you should be able to quickly confirm if that's what's causing it...

Not in this sleepy neighborhood. The inlet/outlet temperature differential is fairly damming evidence.

Also, did you test the jumping voltage of the o2 sensors to make sure they're within the specified range?

Unless the ScanGauge can check it, I don't have the scanner for it. I went thru the FSM and it says to test the voltage just not how.
 

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