Ignition switch replacement procedure. (1 Viewer)

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If the starter is known good and there are still start issues, the most common problem is in the park interlock circuit. Most often the switch is good and a poor connection turns out to be the issue. The places to look are the big connectors over the starter, less common the connection at the park/neutral switch.
 
So I'm thinking my ignition switch had been my intermittent issue.

Went to start my truck yesterday and had no power to anything whatsoever.

Pulled the battery and alternator to get them tested and everything was perfect.

When I reinstalled everything this am the truck fired right up. But even with key out engine off the lights come on and stay on. Which I have never had happen. I've heard that things like this can happen when the switch goes bad.

Does that sound about right to anyone?
Sorry to thread Jack.
 
It seems that the age on our 80 series Land Cruisers, we are having more and more of these gremlins. Mine is doing the same symptons. I already bought the factory Toyota lock cylinder, but in researching, now it seems more likely is a problem elsewhere. Should have known not to buy first before doing much testing and research. Of the ignition switch, there are two main parts, switch and cylinder. I haven't torn into mine as of yet, but did get a new key from Toyota, had it cut to the specs, and then sprayed cleaner into the lock cylinder. Jiggle it and keep trying to start it and eventually, it turns right over. Makes it scary to drive as you never know if it's going to start or not, and I really need it fixed.

Anybody else had any new updates on this type issue?
 
I'm the OP on this and after a new battery and an ignition switch I still have the same symptoms in the cold. I'm pretty sure the bendix needs rebuilt in my starter. I will likely just be purchasing a rebuilt unit.
 
Just curious, did anyone figure out what that unattached speaker under the steering wheel was for?
 
Got the same problem last few years but it never left me stranded so I tried to live with it until last weekend, almost got stranded up in the mountain with 1 week old starter.

I've replaced couple starters with 10k- 20k miles under warranty but I can't imagine starter going bad after 20k miles. Ignition switch seems to be the only culprit left- startup instantly in 40F but won't restart after shutdown a few time with hot engine.

Since its engine temp related , I am guessing the park interlock circuit? Is this the connector on top of the starter next to the main starter wire?

Where is the park/ neutral switch ? TIA.
 
Just completed the ignition switch change using the procedures posted above (excellent resource by the way!!).

I had to replace the ignition lock cylinder and ignition switch after my wife was stranded at the airport.

My wife called me saying that the key would not turn in the ignition no matter hat she did with the steering wheel, the shifter in park or neutral or brake. I went to go help and found the same thing. After spending several hours trying to jiggle to ignition in every conceivable combination to try and get it to turn, I called Roadside Assist and had my 80 towed home. After suspecting the tumbler was worn out, because I did have occasional problems turning the key prior, I changed the cylinder out. I had to hammer on the key in the ignition (as shown in a couple youtube videos) to get it to turn to ACC because the cylinder would not come out unless it is in ACC. I think doing this may have caused damage to tamper resistance or theft deterrent features in the ignition switch because with a new key cylinder the vehicle starter would not turn over. When checking for continuity in the ignition switch I found open circuits in ACC, ON or START. However, this was after checking everything under the dash, shifter console, fusible links and fuse panels. I tried disassembling the ignition switch, cleaning the contacts with sandpaper, and stretching out the springs, still no dice.

New ignition switch from O'reily's installed and it fires right up. For those of you who also get stranded at the airport, or west of East Jesus, if you have to beat of the key to get it to turn you may not be helping your situation.

Has anyone else out there experienced anything similar?
 
Hi, I have had a no start when the key turned too far in the ignition. Mike
 
Anyone have a part number for the whole ignition switch assembly? What I’m looking at online just looks like a portion of the switch assembly.
 
Anyone have a part number for the whole ignition switch assembly? What I’m looking at online just looks like a portion of the switch assembly.
84450-60180 ignition switch. I have a good used switch. PM me if interested.
 
84450-60180 ignition switch. I have a good used switch. PM me if interested.
Just to confirm, that’s the part number for a 1997. When I put it into my online source, I get a “part doesn’t fit your vehicle” response.
 
Just to confirm, that’s the part number for a 1997. When I put it into my online source, I get a “part doesn’t fit your vehicle” response.
This is the number that comes up in ToyoDiy.com for my 1993.
 
try 8445060270
So thanks for the write-up, but add my name to the list of people who’ve replaced the ignition switch and didn’t fix the intermittent start issue. I thought ignition switch because after no start, if I move the key around as I turned it to start sometimes it would seem to hit right and start up.

Anybody else got any thoughts on what the issue could be? About to have to throw in the towel and get it diagnosed by the pros.

ive replaced battery, started contacts and plunger, and now ignition switch.
 
So thanks for the write-up, but add my name to the list of people who’ve replaced the ignition switch and didn’t fix the intermittent start issue. I thought ignition switch because after no start, if I move the key around as I turned it to start sometimes it would seem to hit right and start up.

Anybody else got any thoughts on what the issue could be? About to have to throw in the towel and get it diagnosed by the pros.

ive replaced battery, started contacts and plunger, and now ignition switch.
Check your grounds. I had some staring problems and that was it.
 
I'm sure I'm having the same problem. Sometimes with the key, it'll crank over and other times I have to use my auto start. I bought a new ignition switch, but haven't installed yet. I know the starter is good
 
Process of elimination, try getting a new key cut - from code if possible. The shoulder of the code cut key keeps it from sliding in too deep and the big ridges have little ridges I hadn't seen before. If you don't have the key code, check if your locksmith has a key code scanner. My locksmith can scan the key and it'll match it to the manufacturer key code. Boom.

This hasn't solved my problem same as OPs 100% but I've eliminated the first point of ignition. With help of a buddy who's a Toyota shop mechanic, changed out a starter brush last year but left the plunger and other brush to be in good shape. Batteries test fine so I'm down to the starter switch assembly which I've got sitting right here to go in.
 
Hey all, thought I'd piggy back on this conversation. Can a faulty ignition switch be the cause of when my driver side door his open, without the key in the ignition, it beeps as if there is a key engaged? If not any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hey all, thought I'd piggy back on this conversation. Can a faulty ignition switch be the cause of when my driver side door his open, without the key in the ignition, it beeps as if there is a key engaged? If not any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
easy way to find out....
 

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