Ignition switch replacement procedure. (3 Viewers)

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Replaced mine in a1994 today. Symptoms were sometimes crank but no fire. Fired when returned to run position. Some other times, no crank at all. I figured dirty contacts. On a 1994 there are actually two switches, the rotating ignitions switch at the end of the lock cylinder and a spring loaded pin go/no go switch which mounts to the top of the lock cylinder with two screws right near where the key inserts. Both switches wired to the one harness. I found the wiring for go/nogo switch too short so had to cut the plastic in the harness to get enough length to reach. Rotating part held by one screw. Not that hard to replace. When reinstalling the screw which hold it in place, take a piece of masking tape put a small hole in it, insert screw through the hole and then use the tape to attach the screw to the end of the screwdriver. Once installed, wiggle the screwdriver to pull the screw off the tape. The switch at the top of the cylinder is a real PIA though as the screws are under the dash gauges with only a little clearance. I was able to use a small straight bladed screwdriver to turn the screws about 30 degrees at a time and got them out. Wife stood outside truck and held switch in place with her finger while I reinstalled screws using a long needle nosed pliers and then used small straight bladed screwdriver again to tighten them. I have since found small 90 degree screwdrivers on Amazon which appear likely to work better on those two screws. I don't believe there's enough room for the typical small 90 degree ratcheting screwdriver.
This is what needs to be removed to do the job on a 1994: Column covers, kick panel, heater duct held in place with one screw above your left shin, then loosen the whole dash panel over the switches/radio/heater control to access the go/nogo switch at top of lock cylinder. That panel does not need to be completely removed, just loosened enough to provide access. These are the screwdrivers I think might work. Amazon product ASIN B07GNPRRVZ
 
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What are the symptoms of a bad switch
Intermittent starting - same as a bad solenoid on the starter, or worn brushes on the starter motor. Testing the voltage at the lead on the solenoid from the ignition is a good indicator, jumping known good power past the solenoid directly to the motor with good results proves that it's not your brushes, good voltage 10-13 volts(? probably means the contacts in the solenoid are burnt or high resistance.
I had 6 volts at the solenoid start lead and had the starter rebuilt, replaced a battery and had the starter out twice before I tested the voltage.. Duh..
$94 on ebay from triple creations for an OEM new one..
 
Dusting off this thread with a question.
Anybody know why there are two types of ignition replacements? One has wiring connected and the other is just the metal tumbler.

My 80 is sometimes hard to turn the key, you can remove the key when running by simply pulling straight out, and it beeps frequently like the key is left in the ignition. So I’m guessing the tumbler is going bad. Do I need the whole ignition with wiring or can I just replace the metal tumbler?

TIA
 
The switch and lock are seperate parts. The switch isn’t cheap from Toyota but I’d replace it if you plan to keep your 80. I replaced the switch on my 93 while I had the dash apart three or four years ago. It’s not too difficult but I can’t comment on replacing lock/tumbler/whatever it’s officially called.
 
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Dusting off this thread with a question.
Anybody know why there are two types of ignition replacements? One has wiring connected and the other is just the metal tumbler.

My 80 is sometimes hard to turn the key, you can remove the key when running by simply pulling straight out, and it beeps frequently like the key is left in the ignition. So I’m guessing the tumbler is going bad. Do I need the whole ignition with wiring or can I just replace the metal tumbler?

TIA
The switch and lock are selected parts. The switch isn’t cheap from Toyota but I’d replace it if you plan to keep your 80. I replaced the switch on my 93 while I had the dash apart three or four years ago. It’s not too difficult but I can’t comment on replacing lock/tumbler/whatever it’s officially called.


i offer both ,

both are 100% toyota parts japan spec ...









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i offer both ,

both are 100% toyota parts japan spec ...









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So does the ignition lock cylinder plug into the ignition switch key??
 
Dusting off this thread with a question.
Anybody know why there are two types of ignition replacements? One has wiring connected and the other is just the metal tumbler.

My 80 is sometimes hard to turn the key, you can remove the key when running by simply pulling straight out, and it beeps frequently like the key is left in the ignition. So I’m guessing the tumbler is going bad. Do I need the whole ignition with wiring or can I just replace the metal tumbler?

TIA
You can pull and clean the metal tumbler. Odds are that will fix it.

Also recommended to take your VIN to the local dealer and get a new key made. Then use that as a "master" and get other keys made (after you test the new key, of course!) then you can get keys always made from your new master.

I go through an aftermarket key about 1X/year because mine is a DD and it wears off the square shoulder on the key so it starts getting "sticky" in the ignition, but it still works in all the door locks.

it's easy to remove the tumbler and go through it. There are threads on here how to disassemble and clean.

I started a thread for the ignition barrel rod (different situation than you're in) but it may show you some pics of how it all goes together.

 
For extra keys (I only had the one key included with the truck 😳) I had to use a mobile locksmith. No luck whatsoever with a dealer or a hardware store. I didn’t try the DIY key cutting machine at home depot or Lowes, the machine might work.
 
I have experienced voltage drop to the solenoid and it almost seems to be a cumulative effect from multiple high resistance connections and low voltage at the battery or maybe a faulty wire connector somewhere. Over the last year I have addressed starter, battery, alternator, ignition switch and checked for loose or corroded connections. I have a 4bt which vibrates a lot too. I will get a 900-1000 CCA battery next time and keep it charged up. I eliminated the NSS but every connection, fusible link and crimped harness connection is a source of resistance and subsequent voltage drop. No "a-ha!" Moments in my quest to fix it yet- a bypass relay maybe the solution. It's working again for now....
 
Quick follow up to this thread, and a thanks to OP for replacement instructions.

My 97 80 series was giving me occasional but random symptoms of turning the key to nothing at all, no start, no clicks, no power, no noise, just nothing. And no timing or driving history was a culprit; short drive, sometimes it would happen sometimes it would be fine, it could sit over night and fire right up, or nothing. Was seemingly totally random. Solution in the moment would be patience, superstition, and jiggling the key in ignition.

Did a reman starter, with new contacts, did a fusible link, battery and alt tests, chased wiring for awhile. Nothing changed, issue still there.

Finally, about 6 months ago I did the ignition switch. I feel confident now saying that was 100% my issue, and it is totally resolved. OP correct PITA job, knuckle cuts galore, need 3 hands and 7 fingers.

I would like to add a theory below. See pics of removed OEM part. Looks melted, but just severely worn and melded plastic when looking live. But I’m thinking that the times I would get no ignition response was the key turning and rolling over that worn plastic and not setting into the switch properly to engage a turn.
IMG-4443.jpeg

IMG-4451.jpeg
 
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