Ideas for improving the 2LTE (11 Viewers)

[Jemjem787]

One big thing i have come across is which engine oil people use, and surprisingly this thread hasn't discussed it. I've spent a good amount of time and research on what people's opinions are, and it goes from both sides of the spectrum for every single grade/brand ect. I have decided to throw some shell rotella t4 diesel 15w40 into it for my next oil change, and ill see where i go from there. Its going to be pretty cold in the lowermainland coming up (Lowest it might get is -30 for a few of my winter days, but the lowest average should be like -10), so i'm unsure how it will perform. I will get back to you guys if i blow it up.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

One big thing i have come across is which engine oil people use, and surprisingly this thread hasn't discussed it. I've spent a good amount of time and research on what people's opinions are, and it goes from both sides of the spectrum for every single grade/brand ect. I have decided to throw some shell rotella t4 diesel 15w40 into it for my next oil change, and ill see where i go from there. Its going to be pretty cold in the lowermainland coming up (Lowest it might get is -30 for a few of my winter days, but the lowest average should be like -10), so i'm unsure how it will perform. I will get back to you guys if i blow it up.

The Shell Rotella is really good stuff. I did make the mistake of starting my motor in -25C with 15W40 once though. It damaged my cam bearings - filled my sump with pretty little sparkles. The oil was so thick from the cold, it did not provide adequate lubrication to the top end of the motor for the crucial period right after start-up. Since then I run 10W30 in our 'west coast winter'. If I were to drive to the interior of BC again in winter, I'd be considering 5W40 pretty seriously now. Some food for though for you. Rotella comes in all those grades.... If you just stick with the Toyota recommended oil viscosity for various ambient temperatures, you'll be golden.

 

[Jemjem787]

The Shell Rotella is really good stuff. I did make the mistake of starting my motor in -25C with 15W40 once though. It damaged my cam bearings - filled my sump with pretty little sparkles. The oil was so thick from the cold, it did not provide adequate lubrication to the top end of the motor for the crucial period right after start-up. Since then I run 10W30 in our 'west coast winter'. If I were to drive to the interior of BC again in winter, I'd be considering 5W40 pretty seriously now. Some food for though for you. Rotella comes in all those grades.... If you just stick with the Toyota recommended oil viscosity for various ambient temperatures, you'll be golden.

You are from vic? Do you know of any chain stores that sell rotella 5w30 or 10w30? I was in lordco and Canadian tire and neither of them had t4 rotella of that grade. I wouldn't be going into cold areas for too long so I would think that 10w30 would be good enough.

Thanks for the help dude.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

You are from vic? Do you know of any chain stores that sell rotella 5w30 or 10w30? I was in lordco and Canadian tire and neither of them had t4 rotella of that grade. I wouldn't be going into cold areas for too long so I would think that 10w30 would be good enough.

Thanks for the help dude.

I buy it when it's on sale at Canadian tire (20l pail). Lordco does carry it too. If you can't find it, just ask them. You can get filters at Lordco too...Baldwin BD7029 I believe....

 

[Jemjem787]

The Shell Rotella is really good stuff. I did make the mistake of starting my motor in -25C with 15W40 once though. It damaged my cam bearings - filled my sump with pretty little sparkles. The oil was so thick from the cold, it did not provide adequate lubrication to the top end of the motor for the crucial period right after start-up. Since then I run 10W30 in our 'west coast winter'. If I were to drive to the interior of BC again in winter, I'd be considering 5W40 pretty seriously now. Some food for though for you. Rotella comes in all those grades.... If you just stick with the Toyota recommended oil viscosity for various ambient temperatures, you'll be golden.

Sounds good. For the sake of this thread ill post what im doing. I'm getting a oem filter for a pretty cheap price, and i am putting in Shell Rotella T5 10W30. I'll make another post in a few thousand KM and report back how it goes.

Thanks again for the help GTS! I appreciate it dude!


Edit: Scratch that idea, I can only get it in 20l pails so I'm not going that route. I got recommended a 5w40 pail now.

After all of my research, I've come to the conclusion that the difference in oil isnt that big of a deal as long as you are close to the manufacturers reccomend in the climate you reside in. If everyone argues that their specific choice is the best and there isnt a globally known "worst oil", all of them must work out pretty well.

 

[Flatoot]

I wasn't aware that the glowplugs effected smoke, that's on my list to do for sure now.

For the thermostat, are you pretty familiar with them? Is it a one size fits all kind of deal? I'm unable to find one that fits.

Ill take some pictures next time i am near the car.

If your truck has a rough idle when cold, glow plugs are probably the first thing to check.

Thermostats are often engine specific so there's thousands of different types. And on that note I take back what I said about Tridons/Motorads high flow thermostats being a scam. I've searched online as best i can and can't find an equivalent thermostat exactly the same as what I received.

 

[Canigetanamen]

I don’t remember seeing this link anywhere in this thread but if so I will delete it. In searching for an EGT/Boost gauge I came across this thread on installing an Auber Instruments gauge/gauges. It’s informative and i this is the route I think I’m going to go.

Gauges/Engine monitoring - Auber Instruments

A while back I started a thread about trying to find alternatives and options for gauge/engine monitoring. The system from Madman was up there on the list but the part I hated was the fact that it only displays one thing at a time. I found an aviation one from MGL, the E-3 unit, which was slick...

forum.ih8mud.com

Here’s a link to Auber’s site as well.

Digital Dual Channel Gauge Set with EGT Probe & Boost Sensor [Combo-EGTS-P] - $149.99 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Auber Instruments, Inc. Digital Dual Channel Gauge Set with EGT Probe & Boost Sensor [Combo-EGTS-P] - This set includes one dual channel automobile multimeter (SYL-2813), one EGT probe with sealed tip (TC-KEGTS) and one 3 bar (48PSI) boost sensor for diesel engine (AUBER-303). The included gauge...

www.auberins.com

 

[teachmetosurf]

Sounds good. For the sake of this thread ill post what im doing. I'm getting a oem filter for a pretty cheap price, and i am putting in Shell Rotella T5 10W30. I'll make another post in a few thousand KM and report back how it goes.

That will be fine for your climate I'm sure. I ran some of the 10w30 last year no issues. I'm about to do my winter change - here in southern Alberta we can see -35 and below so I'll be running some 5w or 0w. I did 0w last winter and all was well.

Can confirm BD7029 is the correct filter, I use it or the WIX 57254 depending on what's in stock. Working in diesel parts has its perks...

Also ordered a block heater to install this year! Temro #3100024 is supposed to fit - can you confirm @GTSSportCoupe ? I thought I'd read you were installing one a while back.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

That will be fine for your climate I'm sure. I ran some of the 10w30 last year no issues. I'm about to do my winter change - here in southern Alberta we can see -35 and below so I'll be running some 5w or 0w. I did 0w last winter and all was well.

Can confirm BD7029 is the correct filter, I use it or the WIX 57254 depending on what's in stock. Working in diesel parts has its perks...

Also ordered a block heater to install this year! Temro #3100024 is supposed to fit - can you confirm @GTSSportCoupe ? I thought I'd read you were installing one a while back.

I did install one and it did not fit that well actually. I made it work but it was not ideal. I think it's because I was in a rush and took what they had in stock instead of going special order....

 

[CCCC]

Hi all, hope you don't mind I ask a few questions here. I have an LJ78 w/ a 2L-TE and I'm doing a Water/Air intercooler set-up much like GTSSporteCoupe and others here. I've searched through this forum looking for answers and can't seem to find them (though I do appreciate the many detailed photos and build threads people have posted.)

1. I bought a voodoo manual boost controller but being a complete novice I'd like to make sure I set it up correctly. Its instructions Does this look correct? There seem to be different MBC designs, so I'm hesitant to copy the diagram from turbosmart/etc when those MBCs are different.

2. Does it matter how I plumb the heat-exchanger? (hot in the bottom, cool out the top or vise versa) I asked the company I bought it from (frozenboost) and the rep who responded had no idea.

3. Are there any cons to removing the throttle plates in the venturi? Does it still engine break under coasting the same? I suppose I just don't understand why toyota would make a diesel with them if they didn't serve a purpose.

Thank you for your help!

 

[Nas90tdi]

1. Yes, that is where your boost controller will go.
2. No, it does not matter. The volume of water is too small to appreciate any temp differential by choosing to enter top or bottom with the cooled water from your radiator. Of much more importance is air flow over your intercooler radiator. A really small one will work great with sufficient airflow.
3. Throttle plates are for the EGR system and supposedly help smooth out shutdown. Can't say as I have ever actually seen any measurable difference in that with or without. Engine braking will be the same. Small diesels do not give much engine braking period, you will not notice the difference in that regard. Removing the plates will however, be noticeable at low RPM and when taking off from a stop.

 

[CCCC]

1. Yes, that is where your boost controller will go.
2. No, it does not matter. The volume of water is too small to appreciate any temp differential by choosing to enter top or bottom with the cooled water from your radiator. Of much more importance is air flow over your intercooler radiator. A really small one will work great with sufficient airflow.
3. Throttle plates are for the EGR system and supposedly help smooth out shutdown. Can't say as I have ever actually seen any measurable difference in that with or without. Engine braking will be the same. Small diesels do not give much engine braking period, you will not notice the difference in that regard. Removing the plates will however, be noticeable at low RPM and when taking off from a stop.

Thanks!

 

[Jemjem787]

Looking to pickup a 2.5" Downpipe to start on my exhaust. I was planning on doing it within the next 6 months, but on a recent wheeling trip i kind of smushed my stock exhaust to the point where its restricting airflow, so i gotta fix it pretty quick here.

My plan is to supply the dump pipe and then bring it to a local exhaust shop to do the rest of the work as it's somewhat above my skill level. Where did you guys order yours from? I have found a few options. I was just gonna pipe it out the back and keep it in the stock location. I'm going to keep it straight piped.

Option 1 Will be about $400 CAD including shipping
Option 2 About 300
Option 3 About 300

All 3 graphics on the page look exactly the same. So whether or not that is just a default graphic, or if they are all actually the same pipe, i do not know.

Any and all advice is welcome

EDIT: This is where i would be putting my EGT probe yes? I have not looked into EGT gauges at all yet, but i would be putting the probe as close to the turbo on the downpipe as i can yes?

 

[IanB]

Looking to pickup a 2.5" Downpipe to start on my exhaust. I was planning on doing it within the next 6 months, but on a recent wheeling trip i kind of smushed my stock exhaust to the point where its restricting airflow, so i gotta fix it pretty quick here.

My plan is to supply the dump pipe and then bring it to a local exhaust shop to do the rest of the work as it's somewhat above my skill level. Where did you guys order yours from? I have found a few options. I was just gonna pipe it out the back and keep it in the stock location. I'm going to keep it straight piped.

Option 1 Will be about $400 CAD including shipping
Option 2 About 300
Option 3 About 300

All 3 graphics on the page look exactly the same. So whether or not that is just a default graphic, or if they are all actually the same pipe, i do not know.

Any and all advice is welcome

EDIT: This is where i would be putting my EGT probe yes? I have not looked into EGT gauges at all yet, but i would be putting the probe as close to the turbo on the downpipe as i can yes?

They all look the same as they are all replacements for the same thing.

EGT probe should ideally be pre-turbo at the collector.

 

[JimmyPrado]

Jemjem, what vehicle do you have? Most of us have just bought the mates adapter and welded directly to it. Not lot of room. Secondly, you probably should have a flex piece in line to take some of the engine vibration.

 

[Jemjem787]

Jemjem, what vehicle do you have? Most of us have just bought the mates adapter and welded directly to it. Not lot of room. Secondly, you probably should have a flex piece in line to take some of the engine vibration.

I just added my rig into my sig, thanks for the subtle reminder that i didn't mention what i have.

The surf is my first venture into the vehicle world, and as such i lack quite a few skills (Slowly learning though), so i was going to bring the downpipe to an exhaust shop and let them do the rest.

I was gonna mount the pipe at home and remove my exhaust, then make a short drive over to the shop where they would do it. I'll mention to the shop that i want a flex piece but since i'm unfamiliar with exhausts i was gonna leave the rest up to the experts.

 

[John in Utah]

Might as well contribute to this thread since everyone here has been such a help for me turning the stock 3L I’m my Hilux into a cooler running, more efficient, and (marginally) less gutless 3L-T

Checklist:

• BeBs replaced (as PM)
• Harmonic balancer (as PM)
• 52mm aluminum radiator
• 5LE Hilux 10 blade fan and 3.0 4Runner clutch w/10k oil
• Dorkel
• 3rzfe 82 deg tstat, ground to fit
• LJ78 “3 bolt” oil cooler for the bigger filter and turbo supply
• 30001 (Wix 51368) oil filter required to clear solid axle trucks
• 5/8” Turbo drain to the pan
• 2lte exhaust manifold, ported
• CT20 turbo housing & outlet elbow, ported
• NOS Toyota CHRA
• Auto meter boost, egt, and coolant gauges
• Egt gauge in the manifold directly before the turbine
• Custom 2.25” Exhaust downpipe, heat wrapped
• Stock exhaust under the truck firewall back
• Stock fuel pump, turned up less than 1/2 turn. Timing set at .84mm (bottom of spec)
• Ebay special air to water intercooler, Bosch pump, 9x11 cooler, 24x6 heat exchanger
• Ebay special manual boost controller, bleed off style

I was very hesitant to turbo a 3L after all the negative press the engine series gets on mud. My first plan was to turbo it and not touch the fuel. This was fine except now it just got hot, and the power really wasn’t much over stock. I turned the fuel up and the stock ct20 just couldn’t do anything with it and egts went through the roof. Finally I caved and followed others here in setting up a water to air intercooler.... finally it feels happy! I let the boost go up to 15 psi with my manual controller but the fuel setting keeps it around 5-10 unless I really get after it. The egt improvement even at these boost levels is huge, I can maintain speed up and down hills on the interstate in 5th and under 800 deg where I couldn’t before. I can do big grades at elevation (7-10k?) in 4th and not even think about egts going above 1000, where before I was dancing on 1200. The pump is the only thing holding it back but I think it’s fine until I can mount a boost compensator to my spare pump - it blows a little smoke before boost but runs pretty lean just cruising around. Not sure I would *need* more fuel anyway. Hell, my other vehicle is 3B powered

If you do anything, intercooler it.

Some pics so it’s not too boring

 

[LN106]

Is Air to Air possible while retaining A/C in a setup similar to this? My airbox and intake manifold are like the pictures below which really seem to interfere with the water to air setup location. The solid axle would have a bit less real estate than the IFS here but is there something else preventing it.

 

[Dprio34]

Wow, that is a pretty busy engine compartment with the dual battery set-up and air filter housing location on the opposite side of the turbo. I would think it would be easier to retain the A/C than having a dual battery set-up in that situation. Just depends on how good you are or your fabricator is and bending & TIG-ing 2" piping for the Intercooler.

If it were me, I would lose the battery on the side of the turbo (assuming this isn't some crazy 24volt system) and put the air filter there. Get a LHD air filter set up or just use a cone filter or custom air box or snorkel on the other side. If you absolutely have to have both batteries, I'd move the battery near the turbo to the other side.

I'd definitely retain the A/C, but again, working around the A/C would be the least of my worries.
Let us know how it works out.
You won't be sorry if you get the IC installed.

 

[AirheadNut]

Unless I'm seeing something wrong, those photos show an intact AC system, so yes, it is possible to have A2A inter cooling with AC. Like @Dprio34 said, it will be dependent mostly on fabrication skills.