I have 1968 FJ40 with 10 spline diff. Question (1 Viewer)

[Trippster]

Is there a full float conversion available anywhere that lets me keep my 10 Spline Diff?? All I have found is conversions with 30 spline???

Thank you,

Ben

 

[Living in the Past]

Why would you want to keep coarse spline. My 68 has coarse splines and I added Lock Right auto lockers. Those are one of the few traction options that was available for coarse axles. Personally would buy an original FF over comverting a semi floating axle.

 

[bikersmurf]

Is there a full float conversion available anywhere that lets me keep my 10 Spline Diff?? All I have found is conversions with 30 spline???

Thank you,

Ben

I've never seem any. 10 spline are much weaker... I'd recommend converting to 30 spline.

 

[peesalot]

You are getting axle shafts for the FF, I can send you some 30 spline side gears to put in the diff carrier, should work unless I'm missing something.

 

[Trippster]

Yep, that’s what I figured. I was just trying to save some cash in keeping my 10 spline. I agree with just get a full FF ready to go!

I’ll just keep what I have for now.

Thank you

Ben

 

[Trippster]

You are getting axle shafts for the FF, I can send you some 30 spline side gears to put in the diff carrier, should work unless I'm missing something.

Heck yeah, I’ll do that! How much $

 

[peesalot]

Nothin, pm me your address. Now before you get all fired up I am wondering if you have located a FF oem rear axle with shafts ? If you have thats a great find.
Need to check and see if the FF shafts ( 30 spline ) will fit thru the bearings in your diff, they should but its been 20+ years since I played with this stuff.
More curious about the FF.

 

[Trippster]

No I haven’t even started looking. So I guess hold on to your 30 spline gears for now. I have more research to do

I keep learning more and more about my 68 since I got it on the road last year. It took me 8 years to build it. More money, More money.

Thank you for the information. I really appreciate it

Ben

 

[Living in the Past]

Curious the reason for wanting a full floater? Your 68 coarse spline ball and claw front axle is not an easy conversion to disc brakes. A bronze bushing versus a seal on the ball claw would reason enough for me not to even try. My 68 is still has the stock running gear other than a H42 and Lock Rights. Starting collecting parts to upgrade things. It was cheaper and easier to just buy a newer FJ40. This was back in the nineties. Prices have gone up considerably more now.

 

[Trippster]

I did a front and rear disk brake conversion.
4 in lift and running 33s
The reason is kinda long story. Last month I sheered off 4 lug nuts doing 45mph. I almost lost it. The research led me down the path of needing a hub centric hub instead of a stud centric hub. The FF will give me the hub centric I’m looking for. Mainly just for safety sake.

 

[EWheeler]

The research led me down the path of needing a hub centric hub instead of a stud centric hub. The FF will give me the hub centric I’m looking for. Mainly just for safety sake.

I have run lug centric spacers on two of my 40's without issue. If the nuts are properly torqued, it is no issue. If there is an interference issue with your wheel spacer and the axle shaft which doesn't allow the spacer to get tight to the drum and develop clamping force from the torque of the lug nuts, then your issue isn't with the axle or the lug nuts, but the space. I do not agree with your conclusion that you need hub centric and a full floater to safely run wheel spacers.

If you want the width without spacers, I would go with an FJ60 semi-float rear axle. There are other modifications likely necessary to do this, but if you have the means to cut & weld, all it will take is some time. Full floaters are not cheap. Swapping to a full floating rear axle so that you can run wheel spacers "safely" is not the path I would go personally.

 

[cruisermatt]

I did a front and rear disk brake conversion.
4 in lift and running 33s
The reason is kinda long story. Last month I sheered off 4 lug nuts doing 45mph. I almost lost it. The research led me down the path of needing a hub centric hub instead of a stud centric hub. The FF will give me the hub centric I’m looking for. Mainly just for safety sake

More likely you just forgot to tighten them. It happens

 

[Trippster]

Yeah, I’ve come to that conclusion as well. That’s why I talk with you guys. I can’t thank you enough. I’ll keep what I got and keep checking my torques and red lock tight.

You guys are the best. If you’re ever in San Antonio. Drop me a line…cool one on me

Ben

 

[Trippster]

One more thing….

Do you remember the name of the spacer you used??? Please.

Thank you

Ben

 

[peesalot]

IMO do not reuse that spacer. I would get a new one.
Not a fan of them on the front.

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

33s and spacers on a ball-and-claw front axle sounds like eventual disaster to me. Just say no to spacers.

 

[peesalot]

I run them on my rear but it is a semi float 60 that I put 9/16 studs in, I personally feel the steering input/load just is too much leverage with spacers for the hardware/engineering to hold.