- Thread starter
- #21
Tested it off road today for the first time, runs great. Plenty of power.
3.0 king shocks are amazing.
3.0 king shocks are amazing.
I got an 80 (AGAIN) and I love it (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter ToyotaIsLife
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- Thread starter
- #22
Since all of my land cruisers have had the H151 manual transmission I decided I want try working on a build with an automatic transmission for a change. Good thing is these automatic transmissions from land cruisers are highly abundant and are sold for cheap.
Especially if I will be able to have manual control over the shifts and shift points with a standalone ECU like the Emtron SL6, I am curious to find out if I could integrate things like ignition cut on shift request to get fast shifts, or if I will be able to refine the gear shift points to suit my engines powerband based on throttle position, vehicle speed, etc. I want to know how it will drive. I am assuming that these autos are controlled solely by the main ECU and that they do not rely on external modules like a TCU.
Some brainstorming:
I have absolutely no idea how these automatic transmissions work or if I will be able to get the type of control that I want, but i'll give it a shot.
I decided this black 1997 80 series land cruiser is going to be the one to get an auto.
So based on a brief search Toyota makes these transmissions for the 80 series and 100 series land cruisers:
1. A343F (4 Speed)
2. A442 (4 Speed) (unsure: a variant of the A343F with a upgraded valve body?)
3. A750 (5 Speed) (used in the 100 series land cruisers with the 4.7 V8 and the LX470, some other vehicles)
There are more variants than these. But I got confused as to which ones are used where and in what years.
From what I have learned so far, all of these transmissions are electronically controlled via shift solenoids. Furthermore, I am not sure yet, but I imagine that these transmissions also have a ISS (input shaft speed sensor) and or OSS (output shaft speed sensor). So, I would have to wire in the shift solenoids as auxiliary outputs to the ECU, and I would wire the ISS and or OSS as digital input. I have to figure out how to integrate the gear position switch as well not sure how that is going to work yet.
Ill start working on this conversion soon. I have to go talk with some mechanics and electricians to see how I can approach this.
Especially if I will be able to have manual control over the shifts and shift points with a standalone ECU like the Emtron SL6, I am curious to find out if I could integrate things like ignition cut on shift request to get fast shifts, or if I will be able to refine the gear shift points to suit my engines powerband based on throttle position, vehicle speed, etc. I want to know how it will drive. I am assuming that these autos are controlled solely by the main ECU and that they do not rely on external modules like a TCU.
Some brainstorming:
I have absolutely no idea how these automatic transmissions work or if I will be able to get the type of control that I want, but i'll give it a shot.
I decided this black 1997 80 series land cruiser is going to be the one to get an auto.
So based on a brief search Toyota makes these transmissions for the 80 series and 100 series land cruisers:
1. A343F (4 Speed)
2. A442 (4 Speed) (unsure: a variant of the A343F with a upgraded valve body?)
3. A750 (5 Speed) (used in the 100 series land cruisers with the 4.7 V8 and the LX470, some other vehicles)
There are more variants than these. But I got confused as to which ones are used where and in what years.
From what I have learned so far, all of these transmissions are electronically controlled via shift solenoids. Furthermore, I am not sure yet, but I imagine that these transmissions also have a ISS (input shaft speed sensor) and or OSS (output shaft speed sensor). So, I would have to wire in the shift solenoids as auxiliary outputs to the ECU, and I would wire the ISS and or OSS as digital input. I have to figure out how to integrate the gear position switch as well not sure how that is going to work yet.
Ill start working on this conversion soon. I have to go talk with some mechanics and electricians to see how I can approach this.
That a great idea and love to see it (i also wanted to see 1FZ with a good gearbox not the A442 ), as for the gearbox i think you should go for one with 5 speeds and more because i think there is no point of using 4-speed which we usually see in 100 series, i think you should go for 5 speed or 6 speed from the 200 series, I don’t know if it will be hard job or no but i saw couple of 200 series with 1fz swap in uae (one time i went to garage to check my car (100 series) the worker told me that my car engine was swapped and i told him how then he showed me 200 series with 1FZ lol ) but I don’t know how the housing was done.
Also a point to consider is the housing, the housing is very important to be very strong, some known garage in uae for swapping to ls engines told me that if i wanted my swap to be perfect i need good housing which he usually get it from Australia and the other brands which is cheaper is not recommended because some of them had broken while driving in the dunes (i was considering to swap ls engine to 80 series )
Also a point to consider is the housing, the housing is very important to be very strong, some known garage in uae for swapping to ls engines told me that if i wanted my swap to be perfect i need good housing which he usually get it from Australia and the other brands which is cheaper is not recommended because some of them had broken while driving in the dunes (i was considering to swap ls engine to 80 series )
- Thread starter
- #24
I wont be going with the 4 speed automatic transmission, I will be going with the 5 speed automatic transmission that came with the 100 series land cruisers, the ones with the 4.7 V8.
The mechanic told me it should be an easy fit, mechanically speaking, the tricky part is going to be with the wiring and the ECU calibration (the fun part). As in knowing what wire does what, where it should be connected (output vs input) and knowing what a proper reading looks like to validate that it is wired properly. Once that is said and done, the fun part will be actually creating and populating the tables that will control the shift points and shift conditions.
Furthermore, I just realized my Emtron SL6 ECU might not have enough I/O (Input/Output) counts for this to work properly. Since the Emtron will be controlling both the engine and the transmission at the same time, most of the outputs are already used up. I might have to switch to a Emtron KV8 which has significantly more inputs and outputs. But Ill know for sure once I begin working on this and once I get to the wiring part.
I am still scratching my head as to how all this is going to work, but I will hopefully get it working with enough time.
The wiring output setup in the EMTune Emtron software might look like this in the end.
- Thread starter
- #25
I postponed the auto conversion as I am still not confident I will be able to get it to work the way I want it to yet. In the meantime:
Around 290 WHP is nice and all but I am getting greedy and want more power, I want to feel that rush of sheer torque when accelerating that I got with my other rig, plus I want to smoke some sport cars with an old 1997 cruiser that's gonna be fun, sleeper build. I decided to install a stroker kit with a 108mm crank, steel connecting rods, and a 102mm flat piston from ross pistons, so around 5.2L. With a 2.0mm MLS head gasket from greedy and ARP head studs.
Did that in preparation for the turbo as well, gonna install a medium sized Garett turbo, a Greddy intercooler with 3 inch piping, I aim to have 0.6 BAR (9 PSI) of boost without boost control, and up to 0.85-0.9 BAR (12-14 PSI) max with boost control.. Target HP is around 650-700WHP at high boost, I aim to stick with pump gas so I will install a meth/water injection kit by AEM, the V3 one and aim to use M1 methanol with distilled water to prevent detonation during back to back runs at that target HP, I will set this up to inject at the throttle body since based on some brief research, doing that will allow the spray to distribute better along all the cylinders (the further back the better).
Furthermore, I will also double the fuel pump so two 535LPH Walbros instead of one, I like to go overkill with the fuel system to ensure the pressure is always sufficient to achieve the target ratio under boost in all circumstances. I will also replace the OEM copper plugs with gapped Iridium plugs to prevent misfires.
In terms of having the engine be reliable with that target HP, alongside the meth/water injection and in addition to the strategies I already mentioned in my other posts I will also use techniques that I picked up from other tuners by reviewing their calibration files. I noticed that the majority of tuners use individual cylinder trims for ignition timing and fuel on certain cylinders like 5-6 and cylinder 3 as well.
From my observations: usually cylinders 5 and 6 receive a good amount of extra fuel during boost, while cylinder 3 receives some ignition retard under boost. I did some searching and some people claim that in an inline 6, cylinders 5 and 6 have a tendency to run leaner since they receive more air, but this also depends on the intake manifold and how that distributes air into the cylinders, not sure how much of this is universal to inline 6s or how much of this is based on the intake manifold. Also, I don't know why cylinder 3 receives some ignition retard under boost, I'm sure its done for a reason. Ideally I would have individual EGTs to monitor exhaust temperatures or even better, individual lambda per cylinder (this would be amazing) to accurately determine which cylinders need more or less fuel. Either way having a little more fuel and a little less timing can never really hurt reliability it can only help, worst case scenario the spark plug wears out and becomes a little black if done excessively, so why not.
The individual cylinder trims make total sense, I remember blowing the head gaskets all the time with my Nissan Patrol with the TB48 inline 6 engine when I tried raising the boost pressure really high, around 1.5 BAR (21 PSI) on pump gas (93 octane), the head gasket would always be scratched near cylinder 6 100% of the time, back then, I was not aware of individual cylinder trims. The head gasket wouldn't be blown completely but it would still cause rough running and it would still cause coolant to be mix with the oil, but it would still drive and it would not overheat at low loads, so the head gasket damage was always mild on high boost attemps. Perhaps I would have been more successful if I was aware of the aforementioned strategies.
I plan to post progress pictures soon.
Around 290 WHP is nice and all but I am getting greedy and want more power, I want to feel that rush of sheer torque when accelerating that I got with my other rig, plus I want to smoke some sport cars with an old 1997 cruiser that's gonna be fun, sleeper build. I decided to install a stroker kit with a 108mm crank, steel connecting rods, and a 102mm flat piston from ross pistons, so around 5.2L. With a 2.0mm MLS head gasket from greedy and ARP head studs.
Did that in preparation for the turbo as well, gonna install a medium sized Garett turbo, a Greddy intercooler with 3 inch piping, I aim to have 0.6 BAR (9 PSI) of boost without boost control, and up to 0.85-0.9 BAR (12-14 PSI) max with boost control.. Target HP is around 650-700WHP at high boost, I aim to stick with pump gas so I will install a meth/water injection kit by AEM, the V3 one and aim to use M1 methanol with distilled water to prevent detonation during back to back runs at that target HP, I will set this up to inject at the throttle body since based on some brief research, doing that will allow the spray to distribute better along all the cylinders (the further back the better).
Furthermore, I will also double the fuel pump so two 535LPH Walbros instead of one, I like to go overkill with the fuel system to ensure the pressure is always sufficient to achieve the target ratio under boost in all circumstances. I will also replace the OEM copper plugs with gapped Iridium plugs to prevent misfires.
In terms of having the engine be reliable with that target HP, alongside the meth/water injection and in addition to the strategies I already mentioned in my other posts I will also use techniques that I picked up from other tuners by reviewing their calibration files. I noticed that the majority of tuners use individual cylinder trims for ignition timing and fuel on certain cylinders like 5-6 and cylinder 3 as well.
From my observations: usually cylinders 5 and 6 receive a good amount of extra fuel during boost, while cylinder 3 receives some ignition retard under boost. I did some searching and some people claim that in an inline 6, cylinders 5 and 6 have a tendency to run leaner since they receive more air, but this also depends on the intake manifold and how that distributes air into the cylinders, not sure how much of this is universal to inline 6s or how much of this is based on the intake manifold. Also, I don't know why cylinder 3 receives some ignition retard under boost, I'm sure its done for a reason. Ideally I would have individual EGTs to monitor exhaust temperatures or even better, individual lambda per cylinder (this would be amazing) to accurately determine which cylinders need more or less fuel. Either way having a little more fuel and a little less timing can never really hurt reliability it can only help, worst case scenario the spark plug wears out and becomes a little black if done excessively, so why not.
The individual cylinder trims make total sense, I remember blowing the head gaskets all the time with my Nissan Patrol with the TB48 inline 6 engine when I tried raising the boost pressure really high, around 1.5 BAR (21 PSI) on pump gas (93 octane), the head gasket would always be scratched near cylinder 6 100% of the time, back then, I was not aware of individual cylinder trims. The head gasket wouldn't be blown completely but it would still cause rough running and it would still cause coolant to be mix with the oil, but it would still drive and it would not overheat at low loads, so the head gasket damage was always mild on high boost attemps. Perhaps I would have been more successful if I was aware of the aforementioned strategies.
I plan to post progress pictures soon.
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It is seems nice build and i am very much eager for the potential of 1FZ-FE stroker kit, i am fan of NA engine and love to see how the curve will be in the dyno.
Did you think of using supercharge in the 1FZ ? I saw one building TB48 with supercharge from deep performance (i watched it in snapchat and that owner of the car is i think co-owner in deep performance or something like that) and it was phenomenal in the dunes and one of the best cars i saw. It will be unique build with the 1FZ but maybe the challenges you will get are for fitting the super.
Did you think of using supercharge in the 1FZ ? I saw one building TB48 with supercharge from deep performance (i watched it in snapchat and that owner of the car is i think co-owner in deep performance or something like that) and it was phenomenal in the dunes and one of the best cars i saw. It will be unique build with the 1FZ but maybe the challenges you will get are for fitting the super.
- Thread starter
- #27
I have absolutely thought about a supercharger. The updated kit by guys at “Bullet Cars” looks promising. But maybe in the future.
- Thread starter
- #28
Coming along nicely.
Check the ZF 8 speed auto conversion on zero to 60 youtube here in Aus. I'll pop a link in on the FTE but they are doing all sorts of kits be worth reaching out.
- Thread starter
- #31
Coming along nicely, almost done.
The fuel system is complete, dual Walbro 535LPH fuel pumps and a custom larger fuel filter.
I also removed the A/C system completely, no condenser in front of the radiator means enhanced cooling. I also installed two new LC300 pusher fans in front of the radiator to combat heat sock when idling or driving at low speeds after hard runs. Not sure what the CFM is on the LC300 OEM pusher fans but judging by the sound they make when active (especially compared to LC200 OEM fans) and the feel of the blow, it's pretty high.
Also installed a switch panel and added a auto push start button. The other switches will serve as digital inputs as well so I can control rev limiters, launch control and boost targets, etc.
The start button is wired in as a digital input into the ECU and the starter motor is connected as an auxiliary output.
The fuel system is complete, dual Walbro 535LPH fuel pumps and a custom larger fuel filter.
I also removed the A/C system completely, no condenser in front of the radiator means enhanced cooling. I also installed two new LC300 pusher fans in front of the radiator to combat heat sock when idling or driving at low speeds after hard runs. Not sure what the CFM is on the LC300 OEM pusher fans but judging by the sound they make when active (especially compared to LC200 OEM fans) and the feel of the blow, it's pretty high.
Also installed a switch panel and added a auto push start button. The other switches will serve as digital inputs as well so I can control rev limiters, launch control and boost targets, etc.
The start button is wired in as a digital input into the ECU and the starter motor is connected as an auxiliary output.
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- Thread starter
- #32
I tested it and drove it around the past couple of days and I am exceptionally happy with the result. Amazing torque and acceleration. The seat of the pants feel when the boost builds up after you floor it in second gear is magnificent.
It is currently running the OEM camshaft, I will be replacing it with a larger camshft so I can both gain and maintain that power at higher RPMs. This on top of some added boost via boost control, its currently at around 10 PSI, ill bump it up to 16-18 PSI, then Ill be ready to take this build out in the weekends to some popular places around town to surprise some cocky sports car owners, its gonna be fantastic haha I can see it. I wont wash it, ill keep it nice and dusty.
Here is a 0-60 test. I couldent launch it with too much throttle since I am running bad tires with bad traction and I can’t keep it straight for the first two gears if I was not gentle.
I lowered the ride height by about 2.5 inches front and rear via cutting coil springs for added stability at high speeds, I will also be installing a stiffer rear sway bar from super pro. I’ll also be changing the wheels and tires.
It is currently running the OEM camshaft, I will be replacing it with a larger camshft so I can both gain and maintain that power at higher RPMs. This on top of some added boost via boost control, its currently at around 10 PSI, ill bump it up to 16-18 PSI, then Ill be ready to take this build out in the weekends to some popular places around town to surprise some cocky sports car owners, its gonna be fantastic haha I can see it. I wont wash it, ill keep it nice and dusty.
Here is a 0-60 test. I couldent launch it with too much throttle since I am running bad tires with bad traction and I can’t keep it straight for the first two gears if I was not gentle.
I lowered the ride height by about 2.5 inches front and rear via cutting coil springs for added stability at high speeds, I will also be installing a stiffer rear sway bar from super pro. I’ll also be changing the wheels and tires.
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- Thread starter
- #33
Took it to the dyno today.
538 WHP
630 ft lb torque
Tested it on fourth gear
Boost pressure: 0.65 bar (9.4 PSI)
Fuel: Q16
Stock camshaft, stock GEN 2 1FZ-FE intake manifold and throttle body. 3.5 inch exhaust.
538 WHP
630 ft lb torque
Tested it on fourth gear
Boost pressure: 0.65 bar (9.4 PSI)
Fuel: Q16
Stock camshaft, stock GEN 2 1FZ-FE intake manifold and throttle body. 3.5 inch exhaust.
Beautiful! have the dyno chart w/ RPM to share by chance?
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- #35
Unfortunately not, the dyno graph is a bit too squeezed and hard to interpret so I never end up using it or looking at it when using that particular dyno.
- Thread starter
- #36
All else remaining equal, I connected the boost control solenoid to the ECU.
Then I turned on the boost control and entered 30% to the solenoid duty cycle (feed forward table). I tested it and it went from 0.65 (9.4 PSI) BAR to 1 BAR (14.5 PSI). The power increase was substantial (butt dyno talking). I never thought a day would come where I would scream “WOOOO HOOO” accelerating in an 80 series! Even in fourth gear flooring it at speeds like 30mph, when it goes up to 1 bar you still feel it accelerate quickly.
Given that the boost control solenoid was able to increase the boost from 0.65 (9.45 PSI) BAR to 1 BAR (14.5 PSI) with just a 30% duty cycle, I imagine that we have a TON of head room to increase boost further, maybe even all the way up to 2 BAR (29 PSI)! With just one click of a button! Not that crazy though lol. 1 BAR (14.5 PSI) will keep me happy and satisfied for some time.
I am pretty sure we are beyond the limits of the H151 manual transmission, so I ordered a straight cut gear set (1,2,3,4,5) that will replace the OEM helical gears with straight cut gears, these straight cut gears are rated to handle 1500 WHP with the downside of gear whine like the whine that you here in rally applications, sequential and dog box transmissions (which I actually like and see as an upside). I'll wait until until I blow either second or third gear first before replacing/upgrading the current gearset, ill keep the straight cut set on standby until that happens.
Here is a video of me testing it at 1 BAR (14.5 PSI) boost. Notice how the turbo compressor surge sounds fairly different at this higher boost level. If you really pay attention you will hear it stutter a bit under boost (this occurs intermittently), especially during fourth gear, I am pretty sure this is because I am running ungapped OEM Toyota copper plugs, I have heard that when running higher boost levels you would need to modify the gap of the spark plug to prevent misfires, so this must be why, ill replace the plugs with gapped ones and it should hopefully resolve this. I dont understand how spark plug gapping works yet but I will research and read about it.
I also ordered a set of performance ignition coils from IP Performance, they were originally made as a ignition coil upgrade for the 3UR-FE engines, they claim a 4 times increase in spark energy, should be beneficial in a boosted application like mine. They should arrive in a week.
Up next:
1. 4 inch exhaust (currently 3.5 inch)
2. Stage 3 or 4 Camshaft (currently stock camshaft)
3. IP Performance Ignition coil upgrade (currently OEM 3UR-FE coils)
4. Gapped spark plugs (will determine gap after researching and asking locals)
Let’s see where this takes us.
Then I turned on the boost control and entered 30% to the solenoid duty cycle (feed forward table). I tested it and it went from 0.65 (9.4 PSI) BAR to 1 BAR (14.5 PSI). The power increase was substantial (butt dyno talking). I never thought a day would come where I would scream “WOOOO HOOO” accelerating in an 80 series! Even in fourth gear flooring it at speeds like 30mph, when it goes up to 1 bar you still feel it accelerate quickly.
Given that the boost control solenoid was able to increase the boost from 0.65 (9.45 PSI) BAR to 1 BAR (14.5 PSI) with just a 30% duty cycle, I imagine that we have a TON of head room to increase boost further, maybe even all the way up to 2 BAR (29 PSI)! With just one click of a button! Not that crazy though lol. 1 BAR (14.5 PSI) will keep me happy and satisfied for some time.
I am pretty sure we are beyond the limits of the H151 manual transmission, so I ordered a straight cut gear set (1,2,3,4,5) that will replace the OEM helical gears with straight cut gears, these straight cut gears are rated to handle 1500 WHP with the downside of gear whine like the whine that you here in rally applications, sequential and dog box transmissions (which I actually like and see as an upside). I'll wait until until I blow either second or third gear first before replacing/upgrading the current gearset, ill keep the straight cut set on standby until that happens.
Here is a video of me testing it at 1 BAR (14.5 PSI) boost. Notice how the turbo compressor surge sounds fairly different at this higher boost level. If you really pay attention you will hear it stutter a bit under boost (this occurs intermittently), especially during fourth gear, I am pretty sure this is because I am running ungapped OEM Toyota copper plugs, I have heard that when running higher boost levels you would need to modify the gap of the spark plug to prevent misfires, so this must be why, ill replace the plugs with gapped ones and it should hopefully resolve this. I dont understand how spark plug gapping works yet but I will research and read about it.
I also ordered a set of performance ignition coils from IP Performance, they were originally made as a ignition coil upgrade for the 3UR-FE engines, they claim a 4 times increase in spark energy, should be beneficial in a boosted application like mine. They should arrive in a week.
Up next:
1. 4 inch exhaust (currently 3.5 inch)
2. Stage 3 or 4 Camshaft (currently stock camshaft)
3. IP Performance Ignition coil upgrade (currently OEM 3UR-FE coils)
4. Gapped spark plugs (will determine gap after researching and asking locals)
Let’s see where this takes us.
- Thread starter
- #37
I have been having a blast with this thing for the past couple of weeks.
I installed a 4 inch exhaust and a stage 4 camshaft.
Here is a video with footage of 0-100 km & 100-200 km tests using the draggy GPS device, boost was at 1 BAR for all tests.
0-100 km (0-62 MPH): 5.42 seconds (I suspect this can be sped up by using 4 wheel drive and launch control to get a really hard launch, ill do another test)
100-200 km (62 MPH - 124 MPH): 11.13 seconds
I installed a 4 inch exhaust and a stage 4 camshaft.
Here is a video with footage of 0-100 km & 100-200 km tests using the draggy GPS device, boost was at 1 BAR for all tests.
0-100 km (0-62 MPH): 5.42 seconds (I suspect this can be sped up by using 4 wheel drive and launch control to get a really hard launch, ill do another test)
100-200 km (62 MPH - 124 MPH): 11.13 seconds
Al salam alaikum,
Greetings from Kuwait
Beautiful work and that is undoubtedly the best 80 series I have ever seen. Qatar always leads the way with Landcruiser mods, unfortunate in Kuwait no one cares about the 80 series anymore and barely anyone even is willing to work on it. Dont stop
Im doing something similar although we dont have big dunes, we have a similar flat terrain with washboards, chops etc. Im trying the long shock, low lift combo for high speed desert terrain. Got a stock manual FZJ80 although with a factory PTO winch up front everything else is factory.
I can provide some insight regarding springs, I installed hydraulic bump stops in the factory bump stop mount (quite easy to do and highly recommended) and got constant bump stop contact with factory springs + 6cm of spacers up front. So I needed a similar height spring but with low spring rate to maintain the same ride height but without spacers as to eliminate bump stop contact during normal driving. Much harder to do than I imagined as every single 80 series is loaded with weight and I could not find much information
I tried KTFS-69B King springs (480mm free height) from Desert Motor (also Qatari - love you guys) with 220LB/spring rate and the ride was a bit rough even with 26.7" extended 10.5"travel triple bypass shocks . Ordered from Australia King KTFS-69c (I think 495mm/505mm with 175LB/in spring rate) Much better and pretty much the same as stock. Its approximately a 1.5 inch lift but with the factory PTO winch that weighs 30-40kgs or so.
King also has KTFR69-C with a 175lb/inch spring rate but is taller at 515/525mm. I think after settling it will give a 2 inch lift or so, perhaps 2.5 inches on your car. I think you'll like these but there is another option....
They also said they have a long travel TAPERED/progressive spring - like the slinkies/Dobinson flexy but I do not know if it is suitable for our type of driving as we do not do rock crawling. Its 530mm-540mm or so free coil height with 150LB/210lb spring rate. Specs wise it is better than the Dobinson C59-612V as that has a higher spring rate I believe so would probably give too much lift that we do not need. King just replied few minutes ago saying this spring should give 40-45mm lift for my application. Im almost certain it would keep the 26.7 long shock captured at full flex as my 495mm/505mm shocks need a 10-15mm spacer to stay captive at full flex.
Although with your high quality shocks and excellent tuning a linear spring rate should be better but a tapered one should provide more bottom out protection - although the King 3.0s would not care much I imagine. Would love to have your thoughts on linear vs progressive spring rate as I'm torn between the tapered (KTFR-69T) and the linear KTFR-69C as I found zero information around here for our applications
For the back I have C59-269V on order and waiting for custom 3.0 rear triple bypass shocks (665mm extended 400m closed - pretty much same as King) to arrive so can provide more insight once those arrive.
Hope that can help a bit.
Would love to see more information on the suspension. Wish you the best
Greetings from Kuwait
Beautiful work and that is undoubtedly the best 80 series I have ever seen. Qatar always leads the way with Landcruiser mods, unfortunate in Kuwait no one cares about the 80 series anymore and barely anyone even is willing to work on it. Dont stop
Im doing something similar although we dont have big dunes, we have a similar flat terrain with washboards, chops etc. Im trying the long shock, low lift combo for high speed desert terrain. Got a stock manual FZJ80 although with a factory PTO winch up front everything else is factory.
I can provide some insight regarding springs, I installed hydraulic bump stops in the factory bump stop mount (quite easy to do and highly recommended) and got constant bump stop contact with factory springs + 6cm of spacers up front. So I needed a similar height spring but with low spring rate to maintain the same ride height but without spacers as to eliminate bump stop contact during normal driving. Much harder to do than I imagined as every single 80 series is loaded with weight and I could not find much information
I tried KTFS-69B King springs (480mm free height) from Desert Motor (also Qatari - love you guys) with 220LB/spring rate and the ride was a bit rough even with 26.7" extended 10.5"travel triple bypass shocks . Ordered from Australia King KTFS-69c (I think 495mm/505mm with 175LB/in spring rate) Much better and pretty much the same as stock. Its approximately a 1.5 inch lift but with the factory PTO winch that weighs 30-40kgs or so.
King also has KTFR69-C with a 175lb/inch spring rate but is taller at 515/525mm. I think after settling it will give a 2 inch lift or so, perhaps 2.5 inches on your car. I think you'll like these but there is another option....
They also said they have a long travel TAPERED/progressive spring - like the slinkies/Dobinson flexy but I do not know if it is suitable for our type of driving as we do not do rock crawling. Its 530mm-540mm or so free coil height with 150LB/210lb spring rate. Specs wise it is better than the Dobinson C59-612V as that has a higher spring rate I believe so would probably give too much lift that we do not need. King just replied few minutes ago saying this spring should give 40-45mm lift for my application. Im almost certain it would keep the 26.7 long shock captured at full flex as my 495mm/505mm shocks need a 10-15mm spacer to stay captive at full flex.
Although with your high quality shocks and excellent tuning a linear spring rate should be better but a tapered one should provide more bottom out protection - although the King 3.0s would not care much I imagine. Would love to have your thoughts on linear vs progressive spring rate as I'm torn between the tapered (KTFR-69T) and the linear KTFR-69C as I found zero information around here for our applications
For the back I have C59-269V on order and waiting for custom 3.0 rear triple bypass shocks (665mm extended 400m closed - pretty much same as King) to arrive so can provide more insight once those arrive.
Hope that can help a bit.
Would love to see more information on the suspension. Wish you the best
- Thread starter
- #39
Thank you for the kind words.
I used to be obsessed with shock tuning (valving) and spring rates with the goal of getting the best ride quality and stability possible for the sand dunes and rocky deserts, but I have shifted towards engine performance since I realized the potential has been pretty much maxed out and the only way I would benfit would be to go long travel, so you can have more travel and therefore run softer springs and valving to get the ultimate comfy ride without needing to slow down for big hits with the con of huge amounts of body roll and nose dive/squat since soft springs and valving will do that, especially with progressive damping that you get out of fox and kings, but the knowledge and experience I gained from the first few years of constantly revalving and swapping out springs has served me well so far.
For my goals which is mostly the best ride quality over choppy terrain and big hits, I always run the softest spring rate possible, no matter what, and that always ends up being the stock OEM springs, this gives the best ride since it allows the shock/damper itself to do the work.
As for linear vs dual rate vs progressive springs, I tend to go for dual rate springs if I ever decide to try out aftermarket springs, but I usually only swap the front springs when trying out aftermarket springs, since you ALWAYS want the front springs to have a heavier rate then the front to keep the nose high during oscillations, changing the rear springs from OEM to any other aftermarket spring has rarely worked well to me, since I am very sensitive to changes in ride quality and it always ends up being worse, it ends up bucking, which can only be solved by using allot of rebound valving, and that will cause the ride to feel stiff and flat, the plushiness will be gone.
But there is some merit to using linear springs since they offer a constant spring rate and are therefore more predictable and easier to tune (when dialing in rebound valving for that spring combo).
Since the OEM coil springs do not give much ride height, I always run a 2.5 inch spacer upfront and a 2 inch spacer in the rear, so I can get more up travel to sock up bumps before slamming the bumpstops. I always wanted to try out aftermarket springs with more free length then the stock but with the same spring rate but I have yet to find those, all aftermarket springs have a higher spring rate then stock, have not found any that offer more free length and the same or lower spring rate then stock.
- Thread starter
- #40
Hello again,
Not deserving of another thread but I thought I’d share another 1FZ-FE GEN 2 equipped vehicle that I have been working on.
Peak Horsepower At The Rear Wheels: 312 HP
Not happy with that peak horsepower number even though it is somewhat healthy for a strong crank N/A, but since it has 102mm bore flat pistons with a large camshaft I expected 330-340 from this combo, but milling the head 1mm and swapping the header with a one that is routed to the firing order and one that has a larger collector 4 inch should help with that, will do that soon.
Engine Specifications
Pictures
Dyno Result
Video (Cold Start, Cam Idle, Test Run)
Not deserving of another thread but I thought I’d share another 1FZ-FE GEN 2 equipped vehicle that I have been working on.
Peak Horsepower At The Rear Wheels: 312 HP
Not happy with that peak horsepower number even though it is somewhat healthy for a strong crank N/A, but since it has 102mm bore flat pistons with a large camshaft I expected 330-340 from this combo, but milling the head 1mm and swapping the header with a one that is routed to the firing order and one that has a larger collector 4 inch should help with that, will do that soon.
Engine Specifications
- Displacement: 102mm bore x 95mm stroke x 6 cylinders = 4.65L
- Pistons: 102mm ROSS flat with coating
- Connecting Rod: BC steel
- Crank: Stock, OEM unchanged 95mm
- Head Mill: Zero, no material has been shaved off the head to increase compression, only polish before the new head gasket was installed.
- Head Gasket: OEM new, which is around 0.9mm
- Head Porting: Maxed out on both intake and exhaust via hand NOT CNC.
- Valves: 2.0mm on the intake and exhaust, Stock are 1.2mm
- Retainers: Brian Crower titanium
- Springs: Brian Crower
- Head Studs: ARP
- Camshaft: BC Stage 6 with a custom LSA of 110 vs the original LSA which is 114, Advertised Duration: 314, 310, Cam Lift: .464", .464"
- ECU: MoTeC M130 GPR Package (Premade Loom For 1FZ-FE)
- Tuner: Me!
- Ignition: 3UR-FE Coils 6 channel direct fire ignition
- Spark Plugs: OEM copper plugs
- Fuel Injectors: Injector Dynamics 1050cc
- Fuel Pump: 535 LPH WALBRO
- Headers: 6-1 Long Tube, 3.5 inch collector, 4 inch exhaust, straight through 4 inch muffler.
- Throttle Body: Hypertune 3.5 inch
- Intake Manifold: Custom larger one, the front part connected to the throttle body is custom, the lower part connected to the head intake ports was from the TB48 Nissan engine since they offer the best routing as far as locals are concerned.
- Cold Air Intake: Traditional CAI with a 4 inch intake to the throttle body.
Pictures
Dyno Result
Video (Cold Start, Cam Idle, Test Run)
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