I got an 80 (AGAIN) and I love it (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Mar 12, 2018
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Location
Doha Qatar
I wrote somewhere in this forum some time back that I will get back to an 80 and here I am, when I sold my previous one I thought I would move on, but I did not get enough.

Found a gem, 1997: in good condition for the price, and most importantly it has a freshly rebuilt GEN 2 1FZ-FE equipped already (which is why the RPM Gauge/Tachometer does not work since the 1998+ 1FZ-FE uses a different crank and sync sensor and has a different way of reading RPM). A/C is ice cold! all the buttons work, happy with the purchase.

Manual transmission, part time transfer case (H2, H4, N, L4) perfect.

Ill post everything I do to this 80 in this thread.

Now I need the signature combo (already in progress): Full 3.5 inch exhaust, long tube 6-1 headers (gotta get rid of that cast iron log ASAP), a cold air intake, and 2.5 king shocks with a 2.0 king stabilizer.

Ill leave the stock coil springs on since from experience they offer the best ride quality out of anything else which makes sense since you cant really find aftermarket coil springs that have a softer spring rate than stock (would love to have a coil spring that has more free length with less spring rate), at least I never did, I tried Dobinson dual rates, king yellow springs, king blue springs (blue ones are branded as the comfort variants), old man emu springs, and some other brands, none ride better than stock springs in the sand dunes in my opinion, for blasting through small chop, washboard, etc.

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Here is a video, footage is from a few days ago tested it on the street and in the sand dunes, bone stock with 34.5 inch Maxxis sand tires and 4cm rubber spacer upfront and a 3cm rubber spacer in the rear.




Will do another video of it with the mods, it will wake up for sure and the shocks will allow me to maintain speed over big bumps and will minimize bottoming out over harsh G outs, it will allow me to really push it to its limits and have a hell of a good time doing it.

6-1 Long Tube Header and 3.5 inch exhaust and the cold air intake installation will be finished by the end of today.


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Its been some time, I decided instead of doing just an exhaust and intake that I would do headwork as well. I also replaced the OEM ECU with an Emtron SL6. I needed another excuse to keep practicing tuning, its just such a joy.

Full head, STOCK bottom end (OEM Pistons .50mm overbore, OEM rods, OEM crankshaft, OEM 1.1mm head gasket), STOCK Intake manifold and Throttle Body from GEN 2 1FZ-FE.

I would consider this a mild setup with a somewhat of an aggressive cam. It is still night and day from what it was stock, great power from the start all the way to a red line of 6000 RPM, even though it has decent torque down low you can really feel the powerband above 3000 RPM, you can feel the front end climb as it revs up gaining more and more HP. Whats great is that it does not sacrifice bottom end power and it feels more potent during part throttle and transient conditions. It dropped 3+ seconds 0-60 MPH, pretty good.

List of mods with cost:

*Local prices & labor costs

1. Head port by hand + honed deck ($750)

3. 1.5mm Supertech valves, springs, retainers (stock valve diameter is 1.2) ($850)

4. Stage 3 Kelford Camshaft, shimless (Camshaft: $1,580 without shipping, $300 to get it installed and balancd)

5. Injector Dynamics 1050cc injectors (6 channel fully sequential injection), Walbro 535LPH fuel pump, AEM Fuel pressure regulator set to 40 PSI ($1,500)

6. Emtron SL6 ECU (USD 2,800, loom was about $1k with labor including sensors like inlet air temp, map sensor, lambda sensor)

7. 3UR-FE Coils (Direct Fire 6 channel ignition) ($900)

Some other small labor stuff here and there as well, including the 6-1 header installation, electronic mid muffler, cold air intake, etc.

On-Road Performance Test Video:



Engine Bay picture:

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Got specs on the cam that was used? Lift, duration etc?

What experience do you have in relation to tuning?
Is it something you've taught yourself? Something someone reasonably tech savvy can learn themselves?
 
Got specs on the cam that was used? Lift, duration etc?

What experience do you have in relation to tuning?
Is it something you've taught yourself? Something someone reasonably tech savvy can learn themselves?
Camshaft specs listed here: 284/284 | Stage 3 1FZ-FE - https://kelfordcams.com/product/toyota-1fz-fe-stage-3-high-performance-camshafts

Then lobe separation angle/LSA is 105.5 so it’s a pretty narrow LSA.

I taught myself how to tune for the most part through trial and error however with plenty of help from online courses like HPA academy, forums, YouTube tutorials, and one local tuner here who is an absolute legend, the only tuner who happily shares information, the rest of the tuners here are blatantly selfish.

I decided to tune my own stuff since I got frustrated and had enough with tuners not being available, taking to long, and not perfecting the tune ignoring stuff like transient enrichment, cold starts and actually dialing in part throttle.

My first 1FZ post in the 80 series section on this forum was a performance 1FZ I worked on that was tuned by a known tuner here, I ended up burning pistons and blowing head gaskets all the time, overtime I realized this happened because I was running lean sometimes, I don’t have to worry about this anymore, since I only have myself to hold accountable.

I would advise any enthusiast to give it a shot, it’s incredibly rewarding and addicting. But you have to have the desire to power through trouble shooting, and learning how to use the software, etc.

I’m still a beginner but I am improving at a good pace since I am constantly researching and trying new stuff and even new ECUs. For me it’s more about the journey then the destination really.
 
Camshaft specs listed here: 284/284 | Stage 3 1FZ-FE - https://kelfordcams.com/product/toyota-1fz-fe-stage-3-high-performance-camshafts

Then lobe separation angle/LSA is 105.5 so it’s a pretty narrow LSA.

I taught myself how to tune for the most part through trial and error however with plenty of help from online courses like HPA academy, forums, YouTube tutorials, and one local tuner here who is an absolute legend, the only tuner who happily shares information, the rest of the tuners here are blatantly selfish.

I decided to tune my own stuff since I got frustrated and had enough with tuners not being available, taking to long, and not perfecting the tune ignoring stuff like transient enrichment, cold starts and actually dialing in part throttle.

My first 1FZ post in the 80 series section on this forum was a performance 1FZ I worked on that was tuned by a known tuner here, I ended up burning pistons and blowing head gaskets all the time, overtime I realized this happened because I was running lean sometimes, I don’t have to worry about this anymore, since I only have myself to hold accountable.

I would advise any enthusiast to give it a shot, it’s incredibly rewarding and addicting. But you have to have the desire to power through trouble shooting, and learning how to use the software, etc.

I’m still a beginner but I am improving at a good pace since I am constantly researching and trying new stuff and even new ECUs. For me it’s more about the journey then the destination really.

Thanks for sharing 👍
 
Just came back from the dyno, happy with the numbers, on a stock intake manifold, throttle body and stock bottom end 286 WHP to the rear wheels.

The 270 WHP Blue run was with -6 degrees of timing retard, I just wanted to see how much power I would loose.

The 247 WHP run was with the muffler closed, plenty of HP lost, back pressure sucks quite a bit.

I will swap the intake manifold with a larger one and will swap the 3 inch OEM throttle body with a 4 inch one and will test it again 0-60 (using the draggy device) and on the same dyno.

Then after that, I will swap the stage 3 cam with a stage 6 one and see what happens.

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I like your suspension insights from the world of desert sand. Big shocks, low ride height, and soft springs.

When you ran taller lift heights, did you run radius arm drop brackets? In my experience radius arms can ride really harsh if they don't have a flat angle at ride height. So for high speed ride quality converting to a 3-link front or running drop brackets to flatten the radius arms to keep the anti-dive near 100% makes sense to me.

Have you tried the Icon springs? I'm not sure how their spring rate compares to Dobinson or OME offerings but they may be softer? 91-97 LAND CRUISER 3 - https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/accessory/14593/icon%2Daccessories%2D91%2D97%2Dland%2Dcruiser%2D3%2Dfront%2Ddual%2Drate%2Dspring%2Dkit/

Or the Dobinsons Flexi Coils? Dobinsons Flexi Coil Springs for Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series (C59-612V 3" Front) - C59-612V - https://dobinsonusa.com/products/dobinsons-flexi-coil-springs-for-toyota-land-cruiser-80-series-c59-612v-3-front/

-Bucket
 
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I like your suspension insights from the world of desert sand. Big shocks, low ride height, and soft springs.

When you ran taller lift heights, did you run radius arm drop brackets? In my experience radius arms can ride really harsh if they don't have a flat angle at ride height. So for high speed ride quality converting to a 3-link front or running drop brackets to flatten the radius arms to keep the anti-dive near 100% makes sense to me.

Have you tried the Icon springs? I'm not sure how their spring rate compares to Dobinson or OME offerings but they may be softer? 91-97 LAND CRUISER 3 - https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/accessory/14593/icon%2Daccessories%2D91%2D97%2Dland%2Dcruiser%2D3%2Dfront%2Ddual%2Drate%2Dspring%2Dkit/

Or the Dobinsons Flexi Coils? Dobinsons Flexi Coil Springs for Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series (C59-612V 3" Front) - C59-612V - https://dobinsonusa.com/products/dobinsons-flexi-coil-springs-for-toyota-land-cruiser-80-series-c59-612v-3-front/

-Bucket
The ride quality is not bad at all, it’s pretty comfortable. It’s running on stock springs without spacers.

As for aftermarket springs, yes I did try both Dobinson and Icon, but on 100, 200 series cruisers.

I will say the front end does move and slap the bump stops a little to often currently off road, so I’ll probably install a dobinson dual rate springs upfront for some additional spring rate and ride height (up travel). I’ll also open up the front 3.0 King shock and close 2 bleed holes on the piston for some additional low-medium shaft velocity damping.
 
Just came back from the dyno, happy with the numbers, on a stock intake manifold, throttle body and stock bottom end 286 WHP to the rear wheels.

The 270 WHP Blue run was with -6 degrees of timing retard, I just wanted to see how much power I would loose.

The 247 WHP run was with the muffler closed, plenty of HP lost, back pressure sucks quite a bit.

I will swap the intake manifold with a larger one and will swap the 3 inch OEM throttle body with a 4 inch one and will test it again 0-60 (using the draggy device) and on the same dyno.

Then after that, I will swap the stage 3 cam with a stage 6 one and see what happens.

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Hey mate, Im interested to do similar mods on my 80 series as well, let me ask you got 286whp from a stock bottom ? Only working on the head ?
 
Hey mate, Im interested to do similar mods on my 80 series as well, let me ask you got 286whp from a stock bottom ? Only working on the head ?
270-300 WHP is pretty easy to get with a GEN 2 1FZ-FE with a stock bottom end N/A.

Not as easily achievable with the GEN 1 1FZ due to the lower compression dished pistons, the distributor and the OEM intake manifold that comes with the GEN 1. That’s why a majority of locals here start by trading in their GEN 1 for a GEN 2 before progressing, better base to build on.

You would be missing out on direct fire 6 channel ignition (assuming you choose not to get rid of the distributor) you could do sequential 6 channel injection though. But you’d need larger injectors anyway with this HP target or else your injector duty cycles would be always maxed out even with a larger fuel pump and an external regular set to a higher pressure, I say this out of experience, I maxed out the factory 270cc injectors by simply installing a small stage 1 camshaft once.

Sequential injection offers better fuel control, and direct fire ignition provides better spark energy especially at higher revs. You would effectively be modernizing the 1FZ in a sense, especially when you start putting sensors like fuel temperature, wide and sensor, fuel pressure etc. Do all this with a modern ECU like an Emtron SL6 or MoTeC M130 and you would be amazed by how well it drives, how responsive it becomes, how fuel efficient it can be on part throttle. Tons of things to do and play around with. These ECUs are incredibly fast and accurate when calibrated correctly.

Always ensure your fuel system, wiring, and tuning is on point when working on builds like these. Always confirm you are not running lean at wide open throttle.

I will be sharing all the base calibration files that I have on my laptop for 1FZs just in case any reader who has never tried this before decides to try tuning themselves. I have one for the Link G4+, all the motec ECUs (M84, M600, M130), Maxxecu, and Emtron. I’ll also share some of the mistakes I made in the beginning, mistakes that have simple fixes.
 
Beautiful! Looking forward to seeing more of your adventure with your new 80!
Thank you, I have 2 other 1FZ-FEs that I am working on but those are going to need some time, I’ll keep on documenting and sharing the status of those engines as well.
 
I didn't though that I will find fellow from middle east non the less from neighbor country Qatar, in the last 2 hours, I was enjoying the things you post here and I love that your understanding the work you do and make research's to improve your cars.

I also have 100 series 1FZ-FE 2 GEN G trim 2005 ( handle windows not automatics lol ) bone stock and I am engineering student and thought a lot of the ways to improve fuel economy and increase HP but didn't start because I will finish my study this year, I was amazed by the threads you posted and what mods improve the performance of the 1FZ, one of the plans in future for 1FZ is that I am thinking how the engine will perform if I made it direct injection and installed VVT or VTEC something like them, I know it will be difficult task but will try for it and see how the fuel efficiency and performance of the engine will be.

and at last
ما شاء الله الله يبارك لك فحلالك ويكفيك شره. الصراحة اهنيك على شغلك هذا واستمتعت وايد بالشياء الي كنت منزلنها
 
And for your build, I think you should try BU 7ABEL intake manifold (IG: hamad_bu7abel ) they are the best intake manifold I saw (I saw he has offer for it), and for throttle I think you should try electronic throttle body best for idling you could find it in deep performance (I think you know the shop and it not far from me and they have good quality product for good price, also the owner have garage and he tries the products before selling it) or you could go for Infiniti throttle.

this is the intake manifold
IMG_1176.jpg
 
And for your build, I think you should try BU 7ABEL intake manifold (IG: hamad_bu7abel ) they are the best intake manifold I saw (I saw he has offer for it), and for throttle I think you should try electronic throttle body best for idling you could find it in deep performance (I think you know the shop and it not far from me and they have good quality product for good price, also the owner have garage and he tries the products before selling it) or you could go for Infiniti throttle.

this is the intake manifold
View attachment 3530678
I’ll give this intake manifold a shot, and yes for the best idle control drive by wire with an electronic throttle pedal sensor would be best.
 
I didn't though that I will find fellow from middle east non the less from neighbor country Qatar, in the last 2 hours, I was enjoying the things you post here and I love that your understanding the work you do and make research's to improve your cars.

I also have 100 series 1FZ-FE 2 GEN G trim 2005 ( handle windows not automatics lol ) bone stock and I am engineering student and thought a lot of the ways to improve fuel economy and increase HP but didn't start because I will finish my study this year, I was amazed by the threads you posted and what mods improve the performance of the 1FZ, one of the plans in future for 1FZ is that I am thinking how the engine will perform if I made it direct injection and installed VVT or VTEC something like them, I know it will be difficult task but will try for it and see how the fuel efficiency and performance of the engine will be.

and at last
ما شاء الله الله يبارك لك فحلالك ويكفيك شره. الصراحة اهنيك على شغلك هذا واستمتعت وايد بالشياء الي كنت منزلنها
I appreciate the kind words, thank you.

امين وياك إن شاء الله
 

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