mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Damn dude! What you've been doing with cruisers sounds like a full time job!
I got an 80 (AGAIN) and I love it
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- #42
Land cruisers here are equivalent to LS motors in the US, spare parts and support are abundant which makes it approachable. Its addicting, I do not own a workshop or anything I am simply doing this for recreation and the thrill. But I have a feeling this wont last forever so Ill make the most out of it while I can.
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Thank you for the detailed reply and the tip regarding a higher spring rate in the front.
Hope to see more of your projects and perhaps a suspension workshop soon. Wishing you the best
Awesome work, what grade fuel are you running for these numbers?
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- #45
Thank you.
The naturally aspirated builds use good old pump 93 since they wont take advantage of higher octane fuel since they are not knock limited. I will only consider running higher octane fuel such as race gas like Q16 or methanol on N/A builds if I were to have really high compression, like a 1.5+mm head mill + domed pistons which is something I will try in the near future. Only then will I be able to take advantage of higher octane, since higher compression would increase the likelihood of knock, but when combined with higher octane fuel I wouldn’t need to rely on excessively rich AFRs and retarded timing maps at full load to prevent knock, which would be a necessity on pump gas and that would just be backwards since then I wouldn’t benefit from that higher compression.
The 80 series turbo is using VP Racing Q16 race gas currently, I ditched the meth injection since its just provides a peace of mind to have a full tank of pure race gas with a 116 octane, no need to worry about mixing etc, I am still not making the most out of running this fuel since I did not push the boost far enough. But I cant push the boost any further now since I don't want to break my transmission yet, I will wait until the straight cut gears arrive.
Furthermore while I am here, on my 80 series I will be swapping out my Garett medium sized G33 turbo for a much larger G42 since I realized I am out of turbo, I realized that because at 4800+ RPM it wants much less fuel when tuning, indicating that not enough air is being ingested, even though I am running a high duration camshaft.
So it must be the turbo not being able to keep up and therefore causing a restriction. We will see how it performs with the significantly larger turbo, I am expecting boost lag, but also expecting better high RPM performance, which will contribute to significantly higher peak HP numbers since it’s paired with a large camshaft.
All in all I am incredibly happy with the 80 series project, the power is outstanding and it has been surviving being driven hard every day back to back without any issue, never gets old when I feel the G force of 700+ foot pounds from 6 massive cylinders in second gear when get gets up 14 PSI of boost.
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- Thread starter
- #46
The Garett G42 Turbo is getting installed as we speak, this thing is huge!
Larger turbo = moves more air at the same boost, so I better watch out and not go to high on the first test. Not because the engine won’t handle it, but because the transmission won’t.
I’m excited to see how the driving experience changes with this significantly larger turbo, yes I’m expecting the boost threshold to increase and the lag to worsen, but I am curious to see how much better it is above 4500 RPM up till 6500 RPM.
Larger turbo = moves more air at the same boost, so I better watch out and not go to high on the first test. Not because the engine won’t handle it, but because the transmission won’t.
I’m excited to see how the driving experience changes with this significantly larger turbo, yes I’m expecting the boost threshold to increase and the lag to worsen, but I am curious to see how much better it is above 4500 RPM up till 6500 RPM.
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- #47
Update:
My mistake, it turned out the bigger Garrett turbo I installed was a G45 not a G42, that explains the sheer size.
Took it to the dyno yesterday and I had a blast testing it and trying out different settings in the ECU. This thing is an absolute monster.
It turns out this combo (high duration camshaft + BIG Turbo) loves HIGH RPM, and I mean allot. I started out with a 6000 RPM rev limit, and I just kept increasing it by 200 each run, watching the powerband go higher and higher without leveling off, I was shocked. I ended up reaching 7200 RPM but the injector duty cycle was maxed out by then, I need bigger injectors, currently running 1050cc injector dynamics injectors with 2 WALBRO 535LPH fuel pumps and the fuel pressure regulator set to 80 PSI. I ordered a set of 2200cc injectors.
I also noticed that above 5500 RPM advancing the ignition timing provided a huge increase in power output per degree, it kept increasing 10-20 HP per degree, I started of at 18 degrees at peak boost and went all the way up to 27 degrees.
Anywho here are the best power outputs achieved at low boost and high boost:
Low Boost - 0.65 BAR (9.5 PSI): 464 WHP
High Boost - 1.35 BAR (19.5 PSI): 701 WHP
My mistake, it turned out the bigger Garrett turbo I installed was a G45 not a G42, that explains the sheer size.
Took it to the dyno yesterday and I had a blast testing it and trying out different settings in the ECU. This thing is an absolute monster.
It turns out this combo (high duration camshaft + BIG Turbo) loves HIGH RPM, and I mean allot. I started out with a 6000 RPM rev limit, and I just kept increasing it by 200 each run, watching the powerband go higher and higher without leveling off, I was shocked. I ended up reaching 7200 RPM but the injector duty cycle was maxed out by then, I need bigger injectors, currently running 1050cc injector dynamics injectors with 2 WALBRO 535LPH fuel pumps and the fuel pressure regulator set to 80 PSI. I ordered a set of 2200cc injectors.
I also noticed that above 5500 RPM advancing the ignition timing provided a huge increase in power output per degree, it kept increasing 10-20 HP per degree, I started of at 18 degrees at peak boost and went all the way up to 27 degrees.
Anywho here are the best power outputs achieved at low boost and high boost:
Low Boost - 0.65 BAR (9.5 PSI): 464 WHP
High Boost - 1.35 BAR (19.5 PSI): 701 WHP
Love the work you're doing, no one does Landcruisers like Qatar. Meanwhile I can't get someone to run a coiled 1FZFE over here.
Crankshaft is doing major work at 7000+ RPM. Seems like here is some truth to some saying these are larger 2JZs.
Looking forward to seeing vids around the dunes.
How is the drivetrain holding up?
Hope you're staying safe in the crazy weather. Best wishes to you and your family.
- Thread starter
- #49
Thank you for the kind words.
Yes I am one of the believers that the 1FZ-FE is pretty much a larger 2JZ. And even though my setup is turbocharged (forced induction) I still beleive that there is no replacement for discplacement. Since you get more power off boost, faster spool up etc. Even with this large turbo it still spools up pretty fast and early.
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- #50
Ladies and gentlemen, I kept driving it around town on low boost with the new 7200 RPM limit and and it felt quick and powerful.
Then I switched to high boost and floored it in third gear and as soon as it got to 1.35 BAR (19.5 PSI) it felt freakin fast! The seat of the pants feel. But! The fun lasted for like two seconds, then I heard a loud pop and all of a sudden the third and fourth gears whine like hell now.
I thought I broke third and fourth but it still works albeit it’s making allot of noise now. First and second gears are fine though. I’ll keep it parked for now since I am confident that with the noise that third and fourth are making now that one more run under boost will end them. I’ll wait till the straight cut gears arrive.
This was no surprise really, the amount of torque it’s making at high boost is over what the stock H151 5 speed manual transmission can handle.
Then I switched to high boost and floored it in third gear and as soon as it got to 1.35 BAR (19.5 PSI) it felt freakin fast! The seat of the pants feel. But! The fun lasted for like two seconds, then I heard a loud pop and all of a sudden the third and fourth gears whine like hell now.
I thought I broke third and fourth but it still works albeit it’s making allot of noise now. First and second gears are fine though. I’ll keep it parked for now since I am confident that with the noise that third and fourth are making now that one more run under boost will end them. I’ll wait till the straight cut gears arrive.
This was no surprise really, the amount of torque it’s making at high boost is over what the stock H151 5 speed manual transmission can handle.
Looks like you found the limit of the H151 transmission.
How is the rest of the drivetrain holding up? Still has the transfercase?
معوض خير
- Thread starter
- #52
I am certain the rest of the drivetrain (transfer case, driveshaft, axels) is incredibly strong and is not something to worry about, classic Toyota overengineering. Up till 1500 WHP the only weak point is the transmission 3-4th to be specific.
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- #53
I would like to share another 1FZ-FE side build with you guys, a quite build running a fully stock exhaust including stock cast iron manifolds and the stock intake and airbox.
The reason I want to share it is because it feels very peppy and powerful especially around 1500-3600, and it being so quite just amplifies that powerful feeling even more since you hear nothing and it just goes.
This is another FJZ100 100 series Land Cruiser with the GEN2 1FZ-FE.
Only the following changes have been made everything else is bone stock:
1. Freshly rebuilt engine OEM parts only with 101mm bore OEM pistons
2. 1.5mm intake and exhaust valves from super tech, without valve springs.
3. 1.5mm head mill for increased compression (biggest factor here)
4. 3UR-FE coils wired to the ECU individually, meaning direct fire coil on-plug.
5. MoTeC M130 ECU.
Everything else is stock, including the fuel system, the injectors, the fuel pump, etc.
It is really powerful when you floor it from the beginning all the way to 4500 RPM, and it’s just amazing because it’s so damn quite as well, I’m so used to loud exhausts so it’s refreshing.
This build has reinforced to me the idea that head milling does wonders for power.
The reason I want to share it is because it feels very peppy and powerful especially around 1500-3600, and it being so quite just amplifies that powerful feeling even more since you hear nothing and it just goes.
This is another FJZ100 100 series Land Cruiser with the GEN2 1FZ-FE.
Only the following changes have been made everything else is bone stock:
1. Freshly rebuilt engine OEM parts only with 101mm bore OEM pistons
2. 1.5mm intake and exhaust valves from super tech, without valve springs.
3. 1.5mm head mill for increased compression (biggest factor here)
4. 3UR-FE coils wired to the ECU individually, meaning direct fire coil on-plug.
5. MoTeC M130 ECU.
Everything else is stock, including the fuel system, the injectors, the fuel pump, etc.
It is really powerful when you floor it from the beginning all the way to 4500 RPM, and it’s just amazing because it’s so damn quite as well, I’m so used to loud exhausts so it’s refreshing.
This build has reinforced to me the idea that head milling does wonders for power.
Really great info. H151 really makes a difference when compared to the automatic. One day Ill try to swap a 2018+ H151 into the distributed 1FZFE, longer 5th gear should really help or have you tried something similar?
BTW since you guys are experts in balloon tyres. Always been an MT guy, bought used wheels with Gazelle balloons - very mediocre. What's the best one you've tried? Would prefer something larger than Maxxis - zeetex were larger but haven't tried them.
Many thanks and stay safe
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- #55
Drivetrain loss from the automatic aside, compression makes a big difference as well. Remember that the GEN 1 1FZ-FE (1992-1997) comes with dished pistons, meaning you would have even a larger jump in compression. For instance, swapping those dished pistons out for OEM 1998+ flat pistons from the GEN 2 and milling the head 1.5mm would likely yield more than a 60hp increase easy. And the nice thing about an increase in compression is that improves thermal efficiency meaning better fuel economy as well.
In terms of tires, Maxxis is the king here.
If you prefer something larger then Syam, or Durro. Those two brands offer tires that are quite a bit larger in circumference.
Thanks for the great info. Will come in handy if I ever find someone reputable that can swap the gen 2 1FZFE into GCC 80 series. I imagine swapping GEN2 pistons into GEN1 with a 1.5mm head mill wouldn't really work with the stock Gen1 1FZFE ECU correct? Don't think it can be tuned as it is an OBD1 I believe?
If you would not mind elaborating on why Maxxis is king I'd be grateful. Heard it a lot but no idea why. What made you choose Maxxis instead of Siam/Duro for example? Would love to hear your thoughts.
Many thanks once again. Waiting on any updates regarding the 80 series (name it 3anbar)
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- #57
I did not swap between tires with the goal of identifying flaws and weakness enough to provide you with a concrete answer. But, I will say that throughout my ten years, I did notice that maxxis always lasted the longest. But I’d suggest you try for yourself to determine the best one for you.
Also if you were to do any major engine modifications to your 80 and you were concerned about the ECU side of things just go standalone and call it a day. Motec, Emtron, hatch, maxxexu, many great options. When you do install a standalone system just contact me and I’ll do the calibration and tune for you remotely, I tuned so many 1FZs that I can set up a tune for you with one eye closed by now. I’ll do it for free cause I just love tuning so damn much, that the only way to satisfy that craving is to tune more 1FZs.
Trust me once you feel how your 80 series starts and drives on a well tuned standalone, you’ll never go back.
Thanks for your reply
Sold me on the Maxxis, your opinion is highly respected in my regards.
Many thanks for the kind offer. I'll need to find someone that can install a Gen2 1FZFEs first.
I do work on my own car but don't really have the space/haven't tried engine swaps yet. I think mostly everything bolts on directly but no idea about the wiring which seems most daunting as there is literally no information about it on the Internet. Local garages are clueless and complete hacks so can't trust them - I'll ask around soon since it's the off season.
I have a question if you would not mind.
You mentioned 3.0 Kings on the 80. How did you got 3.0 diameter in the front tower? I have 2.5 triple bypasses up front and there is very little room at the top of the shock tower near the pin - can't imagine a 3.0 would fit. I do have 3.0s triple bypasses on order for the rear and they seem like they would fit
Thank you for your generous help and offer once again
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- #59
Most welcome. Appreciate the kind words.
The 3.0 kings took a while to fit, and they had to fabricate new mounts but it eventually did fit.
But it’s pretty awesome that you are running triple bypasses. So one knob for high speed compression, one knob for low speed compression and one knob for overall rebound.
If I were you I would open those knobs up completely and test it on the type of terrain you go through the most then determine if it’s too bouncy (not enough rebound damping) or it blows of the travel too fast(not enough compression damping) and adjust accordingly to determine the sweet spot. If you find that the range of adjustment is not enough for the desired result open up the shock and modify the shim stacks.
if you do open up the shock I’d highly advise you to confirm you are running a flutter shim either between the first and second shim or between the second and third shim on the compression stack. This will ensure your shock socks up high frequency small bumps and chop like washboard without effecting big hits.
Perhaps they used a thinner top end cap? Thought about ordering 3.0 triple bypasses and grinding the top cap to fit. Or they would offset the top pin? Either way would love to see pictures/vids in the future. Don't think anyone else in the world ran 3.0s on 80s.
I did open up the previous shocks to replace the oil - shim stack was unlike anything I saw on the Internet so I put it back as I found it.
Triple bypasses I have has two overlapping compression zones/tubes and one rebound - it's a copy of a King piston. It runs pretty good in the chop/washboard but does flutter stacks work on bypass shocks? Couldn't find any information at all.
I actually did order shims/rebuild kit planning to open it up and do a flutter stack but it rides pretty well right now.
Another question as you're a shock expert and I couldn't find any info about . It has a 1/4 inch hose to the reservoir - would an 1/2 hose ride any better? Or is it mostly about cooling? Many thanks for your insight greatly appreciated
